
Qass. 
Book 



I 




T^. 



THE 



TRAVELLER'S GUIDE j 



THROUGH THE 



MIDDLE AND NORTHERN STATES, 



AND THE 



PROVINCES OF CANADA. 



FIFTH KDITION ENLARGED AND IMPROVED. 



-1 '^1 ^R 



rtlBMSHRD By G. M. DAVISON ; AND BT G. & t, &. H. 
CARVILL, NEW-YORK. 



MDCCCXXXIII. 






Entered according to the Act ot" Congress, in tiie 
year IS33, by G. M. Davison, in the Clerk's office of 
the District Court of the Northern District of New- 
York. 






INDEX. 



Page. 

1 ntrod uction j, 17 

From Savannah to Charleston. 

Savannah,,. , 19 

Steam-boat route — table of distances,. 20 

Land route — table of distances,. id 

Charleston, 21 

Charleston and Augusta rail road, 22 

Sullivan's Island, 23 

From Charleston to J^eiv- York. 

Route by water — Table of distances, 24 

From Charleston to J^orfolk. 

Table of distances — Santee river, 25 

Georgetown — Wilmington — Newbern, 26 

Washington — Plymouth — Uoanoke river........ id 

Albemarle Sound — Elizabeth City, 27 

Dismal Swamp — Dismal Swamp canal, id 

Portsmouth— Norfolk, . . 28 

From J^orfolk to Washington. 

Table of distances, 29 

From J^orfolk to Baltimore. 

Table of distances — Chesapeake Bay, 30 

From jVor/o/A" to Richmond. 

Table of distances, 30 

Williamsburgh — Jamestown, 31 



\1 INDEX. 

Richmond, 33 

Manchester, 34 

From Richmond to Monlictllo. 

Monticello — Grave of Jeflerson, 34 

From JSlonliccUo to the Warm Sjmngs. 

Warm Springs — Natural Bridge, 36 

From Richmond to Washington City. 

Route and table of distances — Fredericksburgh,. . 37 

Mount Vernon, 38 

Alexandria, 39 

Washington City, 40 

Georgetown, 47 

Chesapeake and Oliio canal, 48 

From Washingtcn to Baltimore. 

Table of distances — Baltimore, 49 

Baltimore and Ohio rail road, 53 

Baltimore and Susquehannah rail road, 55 

From Baltimore to Philadelphia, 

Stage route — Wilmington, 58 

Steam-boat and rail road route — North Point, .... 59 

Chesapeake and Delaware canal, id 

French Town and Newcastle rail road, 60 

Newcastle — Philadelphia, 63 

Internal improvements — Union canal, 70 

Pennsylvania canal, 72 

Schuylkill canal — Lehigh canal, 74 

Philadelphia and Norristown rail road, id 

Columbia and Philadelphia rail road, 75 

Coal Mines, id 

From Philadelphia to the Schuylkill Coal Mines. 

Table of distances — Norristown, SO 



INDEX. VII 

Pottstown — Reading, 80 

Hamburgh — Mount Carbon, 81 

Route to the Lehigh Coal Mines. 

Mauch Chunk, 84 

Mauch Chunk rail road, 85 

Lehigh river, 86 

The Landing— Lehighton, 87 

-.ehigh Water Gap — Bethlehem, 88 

d^aston, 89 

orris canal — Delaware Water Gap, 90 

laware AVind Gap, 91 

from Easton to Schooly''s Mountain and thence to 
J^eio- York. 

Table of distances — Schooly's Mountain, 91 

Newark, N. J id 

From Philadelphia to J^eiv- York. 

Steam-boat and rail road route — table of distances, 92 

Burlington — Bristol, id 

Bordentown — Camden and Amboy rail road, 93 

Steam-boat and stage route — table of distances, . . 95 

Trenton, id 

Princetown, 96 

New Brunswick, 97 

Perth Amboy — Elizabethtown — Staten Island, ... id 

Land route and table of distances — New- York,. . 98 

Principal Hotels, 107 

Public coaches — Excursions, 112 

Governor's and Bedlow's Islands,. id 

Staten Island — Patterson — Passaic Falls, id 

Hoboken — Weehawk — Long Branch, 113 

Harlaem rail road, id 

Manhattan Island, 114 

Hurl Gate, 115 

Brooklyn, 116 

Discovery of the Hudson, 117 

2+ 



vm INDEX. 

From J^eio-York to Albany. 

Table of distances, 120 

Passage of the Hudson, * 121 

Weehawken — Pallisadoes, 122 

Fort Lee— Fort Washington, 123 

Tappan Bay — Tarrytown, 124 

Haverstraw Bay— Highlands, 125 

West Point, 126 

Military Academy, 127 

Pollopel Island — New Windsor, 129 

Kewburgh, 130 

Milton — Poughkeepsie — Hyde Park Landing,. ... 131 

Delaware and Hudson canal, id 

Catskill, 132 

Pine Orchard, 133 

Athens, 135 

Hudson — Coxsackie Landing, 136 

Albany, , 137 

Excursions — Mansion of Gen. Van Rensselaer, 141 

Mc Adamized road, id 

U. S. Arsenal — Watervliet, 142 

Troy, 143 

Lansingburgh — Waterford, 144 

The Junction — Cohoes Falls, 145 

Van Schaick's Island, 146 

Shaker Settlement, 147 

From Jllbany to Saratoga Springs. 

Table of distances, , 1 50 

Mohawk and Hudson rail road, 151 

Buel's Farm, 153 

Schenectady, 154 

Saratoga and Schenectady rail road,= 156 

Ballston Lake—Ballston Spa, 1 58 

Saratoga Springs, 163 

From Saratoga Springs to the Battle Ground. 

Saratoga Lake. 175 

Bemus' Heicfhts 176 



INDEX. IX 

Schuyler- Viiie, 179 

Fort Edward, 180 

From Saratoga Springs to Lake George. 

Sandy Hill— Glens' Falls, 181 

Jessups' F'alls—Hadley Falls 182 

Bloody Pond, 183 

Caldwell — Lake George, 184 

Fort William Henry, 186 

Passage of Lake George, 187 

Ticonderoga, 1 90 

EXCURSION TO NIAGARA FALLS. 

BY RAIL ROAD AND STAGE. 

From Saratoga Springs to Buffalo. 

Remarks, 192 

Table of distances, 194 

Schenectady — Amsterdam, 195 

Schoharie Creek — Caughnawaga — Johnstown,. . . 196 

Fort Plain, 197 

Little Falls, 198 

Petrifactions at Osquake Creek, 200 

Herkimer, 201 

Utica, , 202 

Trenton Falls, 205 

New Hartford—Manchester, 2 U 

Vernon — Oneida Castle, , trf 

Lenox — duality Hill — Chittcningo, 212 

Manlius, 213 

Jamesville — Onondaga Hollow, 214 

Onondaga Hill — Marcellus, id 

Skaneateles — Auburn, 215 

State Prison, 216 

Cayuga — Seneca Falls, 218 

Waterloo — Geneva, 219 

Geneva Lake, 220 

Canandaigua, 221 

Burning Springs, , , 224 

3+ 



X INDEX. 

East Bloomfield, 226 

Lima — East Avon — Avon Spring — Caledonia,.. . 227 
Leroy — Batavia to Buffalo, 228 

ERIE CANAL. 

Description of, 230 

Canal Passage — Canal Route, 233 

Table of distances 234 

Albany — Troy — Junction — Schenectady, 236 

Amsterdam — Schoharie Creek — Caughnawaga, . . id 
Anthony's Nose — Spraker's Basin — Canajoharie,.. id 

Bowman's Creek — Fort Plain, id 

East Canada Creek — Mohawk Castle, id 

Little Falls— Herkimer— Frankfort, 237 

Utica — Whitesborough, id 

Oriskany — Rome, 238 

New London — Chitteningo — Syracuse, 239 

Salina, 240 

Oswego Canal — Geddes, 242 

Nine Mile Creek—Camillus— Canton, 243 

Jordan — Weed's Port — Centre Port, id 

Port Byron — Lake Port, id 

Clyde — Palmyra — Fair Port — Fullom's Basin,... 244 
Great Embankment — Pittsford — Rochester,. ..... 245 

Carthage, 249 

Spencer's Basin — Brockport — Holly, 250 

Murray — A Ibion, id 

Portviile— Oak Orchard— Medina, 251 

Middleport— Lockport to Buffalo, id 

Buffalo, 253 

Seneca Village, 255 

WESTERN LAKES. 

Lake Superior — Lake Huron — Lake Michigan, . . 256 

Michilimackinac — Detroit, 257 

Lake Erie, 258 



INDEX. XI 

From Buffalo to J^iagara Fal's. 

Stage route on the Artierican side, 258 

Stage and Steam-boat route on the Canada side, . . id 

Black Rocli — Waterloo, 259 

Chippewa Battle Ground, 260 

Chippewa Village, 261 

Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, 262 

Burning- Spring — Niagara Falls, 264 

Canada Side, 266 

American side, 268 

Biddle stair way, 270 

Welland Canal, 272 

Q,ueenston, battle of, 274 

Brock's Monument,. 275 

Fort George or Newark, 276 

Youngstown — Lewiston, , id 

Ridge Road or Alluvial Way, 277 

Tuscarora Village — Devil's Hole, 278 

Whirlpool — Sulphur Spring — American Fall,. . . . 279 

LAKE ONTARIO. 
Description of, 279 

Route from J^iagara lo Montreal. 

Directions and Description, 280 

Table of distances, 282 

Charlotte — Great Sod us Bay — Oswego, id 

Sacket's Harbor, 283 

Cape Vincent — Morristown — Ogdensburgh, 284 

Rapids of the St. Lawrence, 285 

Gallop Islands — St. Regis — Lachino — Montreal,. 286 

Excursions— Lachine, 280 

Varcnnes — Rideau Canal, 290 

From Montreal to (^uehec. 

Description of the route, 296 

William Henry, 297 

Lake St. Peter — Three Rivers— Richelieu Rapids, 298 



Xll INDEX. 

Sillery rivei— Wolfe's Cove— Point Levi-Cluebcc, 299 

Plains of Abraham, , 310 

Martello Towers— Falls of Montmorenci, , . 311 

Lorette, 314 

Chaudiere Falls, , 315 

St. Lawrence river below Q.uebcc, 316 

Saguenay river, 317 

Mouth of the St, Lawrence— Return to Montreal,, 320 
Route from Montreal to the White Mountains,^. . id 

From Montreal to Whitehall. 

Table of distances — Chambly — St. Johns,. 321 

Lake Champlain — Isle aux Noix,. 322 

Rouse's Point — Plattsburgh, , 323 

Downie's Monument, 324 

Port Kent--Adgate's Falls— Hiji^h Bridge, 326 

Keeseville — Burlington — Split Rock, 327 

Crown Point— Ticonderoga--Mount Independence, 328 
South and East Bays— Whitehall, 329 

CHAMPLAIN CANAL. 
Description of, 329 

Canal Route from Whitehall to Mhany. 
Table of distances, 330 

From Whitehall to Albany, by Stage and Rail Road. 

Table of distances, 331 

Fort Ann — Burgoyne's Road — Sandy Hill, id 

Fort Ville — Saratoga Springs to Albany, 332 

ROUTES TO BOSTON. 
Remarks relating to, 332 

From Albany to Boston. 

Table of distances — New Lebanon, 333 

Pittsficld, 334 



INDEX. XH, 

Natural Bridge, 335 

Northampton, 336 

Mount Holyoke — Lead Mine, 337 

Hadley — Regicides, Whalley and Goffe, 339 

Belchertown, 341 

Ware Factory Village — Brookfield, 342 

Leicester — Worcester, 343 

Blackstone canal — Boston -and Worcester rail road, id 

from Saratoga Springs to Boston. 

Table of distances — Schuyler Ville, 344 

Union Village — Manchester — Chester, 345 

Bellows Falls, 34C 

Walpole — Keene — Groton — Concord, 347 

Lexington, 348 

Cambridge, 349 

From Whitehall to Bosto7i. 

Fairhaven — Castleton, 350 

Rutland, 35 1 

Chester to Boston, 352 

From Burlington to Boston through Windsor, Vt. 

Table of distances— Montpelier, 352 

Gulf road — Randolph — Woodstock — Windsor, .. 353 
Windsor to Boston, 354 

From Burlington to Boston, by wny of the White Moun ■ 
tains and Concord, J^, H. 

Table of distances — Hanover {see note,) 354 

White Mountains, 355 

Conway — Fryeburgh, 362 

From Conioay to Concord. 

Centre Harbor — Red Mountain, 363 

Squam Lake— Concord, , , , 364 



XIV INDEX. 

From Concord to Boston. 

Nashua — Lowell, 365 

Boston and Lowell rail road — Medford — Charles- 
town, 366 

Boston, 367 

Mount Auburn, 374 

Cluincy — Dorchester, , 375 

Brighton — Watertown — Charlestown, 376 

Ursuline Convent, 377 

Breed's Hill, 378 

Bunker Hill Monument, 381 

Fort Independence — Nahant, 382 

Forts around Boston erected during the revolution, 385 

From Boston to Portland. 

Table of distances — Lynn — Salem, 391 392 

Newburyport — Portsmouth, 393 

Portland, 394 

From Portland to Qjiiehec. 

Remarks relative to the route, 396 

Table of distances — North Yarmouth, id 

Freeport — Brunswick, id 

Bowdointown — Hallowell, — Augusta — Sidney, . . 397 

Waterville — Bloomfield — Norridgework, 398 

Remainder of the route to Gluebec, id 

From Portland to Eastport. 

Table of distances, 398 

Bath — Wiscasset — Newcastle — Waldobro', ..... 399 

Warren — Thomastown, 400 

Camden — Belfast — Buckstown, id 

Penobscot — Castine, id 

Machias — Eastport, 401 

Robbinstown, 402 

From Boston to Jfew- Yoi'Jc. 
R emarks relating to and directions, 402 



INDEX. XV 



From Boston to Providence. 

Remarks and directions — Table of distances, .... 403 

Roxbiu y — Dorchester — Dedham, id 

Pawtucket — Providence, 404 



From Providence to Js^etoport. 

Bristol— Newport, 407 

Return to Providence, 409 

Fort Green — Mount Hope — King Philip, id 

From Providence to Kew-London. 

Remarks, — Centreville, 413 

Hopkinton — Stonington, , 414 

New London,. , 415 

Steam-boat and stages, 417 

From JVciw London to J^orwich, by steam-boat. 

Thames River, 417 

Mohegan — Trading Cove — Norwich, 418 

From J^orioich to Hartford, 

Table of distances — East Hartford — Hartford,... 420 
Steam-boats and stages from Hartford, 423 

From Hartford to J^ew-Haven. 

Table of distances — Wethersfield — Rocky Hill,. , 424 

Middletown — Military Academy, 425 

Natural Ice Houses, 426 

Haddam — Saybrook, {set note,) id 

New-Haven, 428 

Public Square — Yale College, 429 

New burying ground — Tontine Coffee House,. . . 430 

West Rock, id 

East Rock — Farmington canal, 431 

Steam-boats from New-Haven to New- York, .... 432 
Stages from New-Haven, id 



XVI INDEX. 

Route from Kew-Haven to Kew-York. 

Table of distances— Sketch of the route, {see note,) 432 

Bridgeport — Fairfield — Norwalk, id 

Westchester county —Horseneck — Harlaem,.. . . . 433 

From J^eiv-Haven to Litchfield. 

Stages— Waterbury, 433 

West Rock™Watertown — Litchfield, 434 

Mount Tom — Great Pond — Chalybeate Spring,. . 434 

Mount Prospect, id 

From Litchfield to tilbany. 
Stages and intervening places, 435 

From Litchfield to Hartford. 

Harwinton— Burlington — Farmington, 435 

Hartford, 436 

Route up the Valley of the Connecticut River. 

Windsor— Enfield, 436 

Suffield, 437 

West Sprinfffield— Springfield, 438 

South Hadley Falls, 439 

Northampton — Hadley — Hatfield, 440 

Muddy Brook, 441 

Deerfield, 442 

Greenfield — Turner's Falls, 444 

Bernardstown — Vernon, 445 

Guilford — Brattleboro' — Dummerston — Putney, . . 446 

Westminster — Walpole — Bellows Falls, id 

Charlestown, N. H id 

Springfield, Vt 447 

Weathersfield — Windsor — Hartland, 448 

Hartford, Vt. —Hanover, id 



INTRODUCTION. 



The oppressive lieat of summer in the southern sec- 
tions of the United States, and the consequent expo- 
sure to iUness, have long induced the wealthy part of 
the population to seek, at that season of the year, the 
more salubrious climate of the north. But the recent 
gigantic internal improvements in the northern and 
middle states, and the developement of new and highly 
interesting natural scenery, fogether with the increased 
facilities for travelling, have greatly augmented the 
number of tourists within a short period. The rail 
roads, canals, coal mines, the Springs, the Falls, the 
Lakes, the fortifications of Q.uebec, the sublime moun- 
tain scenery in New- York and New-England, with the 
various attractions presented in the large commercial 
cities, cannot fail of insuring to a traveller a rich com- 
pensation for the toils incident to a journey. 

This work is designed as a pocket manual and guide 
to travellers visiting these places. Our limits forbid 
that we should indulge in elaborate descriptions or mi- 
nute geographical and statistical details. We have 
therefore confined ourselves to subjects of more imme- 
diate interest to the tourist ; directing him in his course, 
and pointing out, as he passes, objects which most de- 
serve his notice and regard. 

The Guide, it will be perceived, commences at Savan- 
nah, in Georgia, though a rapid glance of the country 
merely is taken until reaching Washington City. The 
travelling from south to north being more generally by 
water than otherwise, a minute description of the coun- 
try between Savannah and Washington would be unin- 
teresting and unimportant to a great proportion of the 
readers of these pages. We therefore briefly notice 
some of the prominent cities and towns, and pass on 
to those sections embraced within what has been usual- 
ly denominated the Fashionable or Northern Tour. 



PLATES 

ACCOMPANYING THIS WORK. 

1. DeviVs Pulpit, a scene near Weehavvken, p. 1. 

2. Dismal Sioamp, p. 27. 

3. J^eio-York, p. 98. Tlie view is taken from the Jer- 
sey shore. ■■ 

4. Weehaivken, p. 122. 

5. Scene on the Hudson, on entering the Highlands 
from the south, p. 125. 

6. Burgoyne''s Surrender, p. 179. 

7. Hadley Falls. These are 19 miles north of Sarato- 
ga Springs on the Hudson river. The plate represents 
the bridge extending over the rapids, and also the sur- 
rounding scenery, p. 182. 

8. Lake George. The view is from the head of the 
lake, near the ruins of Fort William Henry, with the 
village of Caldwell on the left. p. 184. 

9. Vieio near Ticonderoga, p. 1 90. 

10. Trenton Fulls, p. 205. 

11. Jfiagara Falls. The view is taken from Goat 
Island, and exhibits the entire cui*ve of the British or 
horse-shoe fall, with Forsyth's Hotel and other houses 
on the heights of the Canada shore, p. 268. 

12. State Honse, Boston, with the common in front, 
p. 367. 



THE 



TRAVELLER'S GUIDE. 



Savannah, the principal city in the state of Georgia, 
is located on the south-west bank of the Savannah riv- 
er, about 17 miles from the bar at its mouth. The city 
is built on elevated ground, and exhibits a beautiful ap- 
pearance from the vtater ; its tall spires and other pub- 
lic buildings, with the groves of trees planted along its 
streets, giving it an air of pecvdiar fascination. The 
streets are wide and regularly laid out, and the build- 
ings, together with the public squares, of which there 
are ten, exhibit much taste and elegance. Of the pub- 
lic bmldings, the city contains a court house, jail, hos- 
pital, theatre, exchange, a public library, 3 banks, and 
10 churches. The Presbyterian church is an elegant 
and spacious edifice of stone. The Exchange is a large 
building, 5 stories high. The academy, partly of brick, 
and partly of stone, is 180 feet front, 60 feet wide, and 
3 stories high. Savannah is by far the most important 
commercial town in Georgia, and is the great mart of 
the cotton planters for an extensive and well settled re- 
gion of country. Steam boats ply regularly between 
Savannah and Charleston, distance 110 miles, as fol- 
lows : 



20 



FROM SAVANNAH TO CHARLESTON. 



Miles. 

Tybee Sound, 12 

Port Republican, .... 25 

Beaufort, 10 

South Edisto, ....... 18 



Miles. 
North Edisto Sound, 10 

Light House, 25 

Charleston Bar, 3 

Charleston, 7 



By land, the distance between the two cities is 118 
miles, as follows : 



Miles. 
From Savannah to 
Beck's Ferry, on 
the Savannah r. , . . 25 
Fitch's, Echan road,. 19 

Coosauhatchie, 4 

Pocotalioo, 6 

Saltketcher Church, . 7 



Miles. 

Thompson's Tavern, 9 

Pompon P. Office, ... 11 

Jackson Borough, ... 3 

Hick's Tavern, 10 

Green's Tavern, .... 10 

Ashly River, 8 

Charleston, 6 



On this route, the tourist crosses the Savannah river^ 
which is navigable for steam boats to Augusta, 105 
miles above Savannah, having its rise 150 miles north- 
west of the former place ; 

The Coosauhatchie Hver, which rises 47 miles north- 
west of the village of that name, and falls into the Coo- 
saw river, 6 miles south-east ; 

The Cambahee river, wliich rises 75 miles north-west 
of Saltketcher, and falls into St. Helena Sound, 18 
miles south-east from that place ; 

The Edisto river, which rises 80 miles north-west of 
Jacksonboro', and falls into the Atlantic ocean 20 miles 
south-east ; and 

The .Ashley river, which rises about 40 miles north- 
west of Charleston. 

This route is interspersed with rice and cotton plan- 
tations, and several handsome country scats of the op- 



CHARLESTON. 21 

ulent owners of the soil. In the spring, the whole face 
of the country assumes a richness of verdure highly pic- 
turesque and romantic ; which, however, becomes dried 
and withered during the burning heat of a summer'^ 
sun. 

CHARLESTON, 

The metropolis of South Carolina, is alike distin- 
guished for the opulence and hospitality of its inhabi- 
tants. On entering the city from the bay, an interest- 
ing prospect is presented. The glittering spires of its 
public edifices are well calculated to give animation to 
the scene. Some of its streets are extremely beautiful, 
and many of the houses are truly elegant. Orange 
trees, in the early part of the season, laden with fruit, 
and peach trees clothed with blossoms, meet the eye of 
the traveller, and united with the climate of the coun- 
try at that* time, render Charleston one of the most at- 
tractive cities in the union. The society is refined, in- 
telligent, frank and affable. 

The city was founded and made the seat of govern- 
ment of the state in 1680. It stands on a dead level 
with the sea, two noble rivers, the Ashley and the 
Cooper, enclosing it on a wide peninsula called the 
Neck. Most of the houses contain a piazza, extending 
from the ground to the top, giving to the rooms in each 
story a shady open walk. Except in the commercial 
parts of the town, the houses, which are mostly paint- 
ed white, are generally surrounded with gardens, trees 
and shrubbery, giving to them a peculiarly romantic 
and rich appearance. 



22 CHARLESTON. 

The most cc4ebrated edifices of this city, are the Or- 
phan Asylum and the Circular Church. The for- 
mer is one of the best institutions of the kind in the Uni- 
ted States. It maintains and educates 130 orphan chil- 
dren, and is highly honorable to the characteristic hu- 
manity and benevolence of the place, and a happy illus- 
tration of the tone of pubHc feeling. The other public 
buildinors are 10 or 12 in number, exclusive of about 20 
churches. The city library is one of the best in the 
union, and contain nearly 14,000 volumes. 

A rail road is now constructing from Charleston to 
Hamburgh, on the Savannah river, opposite Augusta, 
135 miles, and wall probably be finished the present 
season, (1833.) The charter was granted in January, 
1828, and the books opened in the following March ; 
but a small portion only of the stock was taken, yet the 
company was organized, and proceeded to collect such 
facts as would shed light upon the undertaking. In 
the winter of 1828, '29, an experimental line of suiTey 
was executed, and in the winter of 1829, '30, the route 
was explored by Mr. Horatio Allen ; in the mean time 
a section of three or four miles was constructed and put 
into operation ; doubts and fears were in a measure 
dispelled, and by great exertion the subscription to the 
stock was increased to $600,000 in August, 1830, 
when the affairs of the company assumed a promis- 
ing aspect, and the work has progressed rapidly. In 
the construction of this road wood al6ne is used, with 
the exception of a flat bar of iron on the surface. Piles 
are driven into the earth on each side of the path, on 
the top of which and at right angles with the path, a 
sleeper is placed ; the rail of wood, six by ten inches 



sclhyan's island. 23 

square, is fastened to the sleepers. This is a very cheap 
mode of construction, and very hable to decay ; it how- 
ever answers present purposes, and will enable the com- 
pany to rebuild the road at a future period, of more per- 
manent materials, and at a much less expense. Steam 
carriages have been placed on the road, and have been 
m successful operation for some time. This communi- 
cation with the interior will prove of great importance 
to the city as well as country, and the receipts, it is 
beheved, will give a fair dividend to the stockholders. 

Sullivan's Island, which lays at the distance of 7 
miles from the city, at the entrance of the harbor, is a 
spot consecrated as the theatre of important events du- 
ing the revolution. On this island is Fort Moultrie, 
rendered glorious by the unyielding desparation with 
which it sustained the attack of the British fleet in the 
war of our independence. The flieet consisted of about 
fifty sail ; and on the first annunciation of its approach, 
lay within six leagues of the island. It was a time of 
awful and anxious suspense to the garrison in the fort, 
and to the inhabitants of the city. The public mind 
had become deeply impressed with ideas of English 
valor ; and diffident of its own power, looked with pain- 
ful anxiety towards the issue of the coming contest. 

About tliis period a proclamation reached the shore, 
under the sanction of a flag, in which the British com- 
mander, Sir Henry Clinton, held out the promise of 
pardon to all who would resign their arms and co-ope- 
rate in the re-establishment of loyalty. But the royal 
proposition met with the rejection which it deserved. 
The militia of the adjacent country crowded the streets 

b2 



24 Sullivan's island. 

of Charleston ; the citizens threw down their imple- 
ments of industry, and grasped their arms in defence of 
their native city. On the 28th of June, 1776, Fort 
Moultrie was attacked by about ten ships, frigates and 
sloops, and was defended in a manner that would have 
honored the heroic veterans of Greece or Rome. 

During this engagement, the inhabitants stood at 
their respective posts, prepared to meet the advancing 
foe. They had determined to grapple with the enemy 
as he landed, and surrender their liberty only with their 
lives. But so manfully did the garrison withstand the 
conflict, that the fleet was compelled to withdraw, leav- 
ing the inhabitants in the unmolested enjoyment of 
their rights. 

The influence of this expedition was most auspicious 
to the cause of American liberty. It strengtliened the 
trembling hopes and dispersed the fears of the inhabi- 
tants. They had seen the result of this attempt, and 
now felt the triumphant assurance that the sacred 
cause in wloich they had enlisted would eventually suc- 
ceed. 

The communication between Charleston and New- 
York is rendered frequent by convenient and com- 
modious packets that ply from one place to the other. 
A journey by land, until reaching Norfolk, is tedious 
and uninteresting ; the public inns, except in the large 
tov\-ns, are generally poor, and a voyage by water is the 
uniiorm choice of the fashionable and genteel portion 
of tha community. 

The distance by water from Charleston to New- 
York is 670 miles, and the intermediate distances are 
?is follows ; 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 



25 



Off Cape Fear, 120 

Cape Look Out, 75 
Cape Hatteras, . 78 
Capes of Virginia, 140 
Cape May, 120 



Miles. 
Off Barnegat Inlet, ... 70 

The Bar, 45 

Sandy Hook, 3 

The Narrows, 11 

New- York, 8 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFORK, 
by the coast, 
Is 419 miles, and the intermediate distances are as 
follows : 



Miles. 
By land. 

Greenwieh, 4 

Wapetan Church, .... 15 

Tweeden Cottons,. ... 17 

Santee R., S. Branch,. 10 

N. Branch, 2 

Georgetown, 14 

Oil the Sands, 20 

Varennes, N. C 13 

Smithville, 26 

Brunswick, 12 

Wilmington, 18 

Hermitage, 6 

S. Washington, 24 

Rhode's, 24 



. Miles. 

Trenton, 11 

Newborn, 20 

Wasliington, 35 

Plymouth, 35 

Mouth of Roanoke R. 8 

By steam boat. 
Wade's Point, Albe- 
marle Sound, 45 

EUzabeth Cit}'^, 17 

By land. 
Pasquotank River, . . 12 
N. Carolina state line, 10 

Portsmouth 20 

Norfolk, 1 



The Santee, passed on this route, is the principal riv- 
er in South Carolina. It is formed by a union of the 
Congaree and Wateree about 25 miles south east of 
Columbia, and falls into the ocean by two mouths 
about 12 miles south east from where it is crossed. A 
canal, 22 miles long, connects the Santee with Cooper 
river, through which large quantities of produce are 
annually co'^ eyed to Charleston. 



26 FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 

Georgetown, the capital of tlie district of that name, 
is located on Winyaw bay, near the mouth of the Pe- 
dee river, and 13 miles from the ocean. It contains a 
population of between 2 and 3000 inhabitants, and is a 
place of very considerable trade. 

Wilmington, N. G. is the capital of New-Hanover 
county. It is situate on the north east side of Cape 
Fear river, just below a union of its branches, to which 
place the river is navigable for vessels. The town con- 
tains a court house, jail, academy, 2 banks, 2 churches, 
and between 2 and 3000 inhabitans ; and is the great- 
est shipping port in the state. It was visited by a 
conflagration in 1819, by which 200 buildings, val- 
ued at $1,000,000, were destroyed ; and by another 
in 1828, in which 50 buildings were burned, valued at 
$130,000. 

Newbern is situated on the south side of Neuse riv- 
er, 30 miles from Pamlico Sound. It is the largest 
town in North Carolina, containing a population of 
nearly 4000 inhabitants. There are in this place a 
court house, jail, theatre, 2 banks and 3 churches. 

Washington is located on the north side of the Pam- 
lico river, and contains a population of about 1200 in- 
habitants. 

Plymouth, the capital of Washington county, is sit- 
uate on the north side of the Roanoke river, and 5 
miles from Albemarle Sound. 

The Roanoke river rises in the state of Virginia, pur- 
suing a crooked course to Albemarle Sound, into which 



J 



FROM CHARLESTON TO NORFOLK. 27 

it empties by several channels, 230 miles from its 
source. It is na\'igable about 30 miles for vessels of 
considerable burthen, and for boats, 70 miles. The 
banks are fertile and well settled. 

Mhemarle Sound is in the north east part of North 
Carolina, on the coast. It extends from east to west 
62 miles, and is from 4 to 15 miles wide. It is con- 
nected with Pamlico Sound by several narrow inlets, 
and with the Chesapeake Bay by a canal through the 
Dismal Swamp. 

A steam boat is taken at the mouth of the Roanoke 
across the Albemarle Sound to 

Elizabeth City, the capital of Pasquotank county, 
N. C. The town is located on the bank of the Pas- 
quotank river, which has its source in the Dismal 
Swamp. It contains a court house, jail and 4 church- 
es. From Elizabeth City the road to Norfolk lies on 
the bank of the canal, 23 miles long, cut through the 

Dismal Sivamp. This swamp is a tract of marshy 
land, generally covered with pine, juniper and cypress 
trees. It is 30 miles long from north to south, and 10 
broad. In the centre is Drummond's Pond, 15 miles in 
circumference. 

The Canal, through this swamp, proves of immense 
advantage to the eastern section of North Carolina. 
Formerly their coasting trade was through the Ockra- 
cock inlet, by the tedious, hazardous and expensive sea 
route ; but the canal forms an easy, safe and cheap 
means of conveyance, and affords more extensive mar- 
kets. Near the- centre of its extreme points is the junc- 



23 NORFOLK. 

tion of what is called the North West Canal, which is 
six miles long, and connects North West River (which 
empties into Currituck Sound in North Carolina) with 
the main canal, opening an avenue to market for the 
vast stores of timber in that section suitable for naval 
purposes, besides the various other products of the 
country. On the main canal, the basin at Deep Creek 
is a beautiful sheet of water, half a mile long, and 15 
feet above tide water. The lockage is 40 feet ; and the 
locks, w^hich are stone, are of the best worknianship. 

Portsmouth is pleasantly located on the south west 
side of Elizabeth river, opposite Norfolk. It contains a 
court-house, jail and 4 churches, and between 2 and 
3000 inhabitants. 

Norfolk, the commercial capital of Virginia, is situ- 
ated on the east side of Elizabeth river, immediately be- 
low the junction of its two main branches, and eight 
miles above Hampton roads, and had a popvilation, in 
1830, of 9,800. The town lies low, and is in some pla- 
ces marshy, though the principal streets are well paved. 
Among the public buildings are a theatre, 3 banks, an 
academy, marine hospital, atheneum, and 6 churches. 
The harbor, which is capacious and safe, is defended by 
several forts. One is on Craney island, near the mouth 
of Elizabeth river. There are also fortifications at 
Hampton roads ; the principal of which. Fort Calhoun, 
is not yet completed. 

The J^avy Yard at Gosport, on the bank of the Eliza- 
beth river, nearly opposite Norfolk, is deserving the at- 
tention of strangers. A superb dock has been con- 
structed at this place, similar to that at Charlestown, 



FROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON. 



29 



near Boston. The length of the bottom, from the iiuic.r 
or foremost block, to that wliich is nearest the gates, is 
206 feet, besides 50 feet of spare room — sufficient to 
hold a small vessel. The width of the dock, at the top, 
is 86 feet. As the tide rises and falls but 3 or 4 feet, 
the water is pumped out, when necessary, by steam 
engines. 

From Norfolk to Washington city or Baltimore, the 
routes are usually performed by steam-boats. The in- 
termediate distances are as follows : 



FROM NORFOLK TO WASHINGTON, 

195 miles.* 



Miles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth 
river, 9 

Mouth of James river, 6 
Mouth of York river, 

Old Point Comfort, 20 
New Point Comfort,. 10 
Rappahannock river, 1 5 



JMiles. 
Off Outlet St. Mary's 

river, 42 

Off Port Tobacco, .. . 38 
Mouth of Potomac riv- 
er, 15 



Mount Vernon, 25 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 



* The route is down the Elizabeth river till it enters 
the Chesapeake Bay — thence up the bay to the mouth 
of the Potomac, which is entered, tlie boat proceeding 
up the river, and passing Mount Vernon and Alexan- 
dria, noticed at pages 38, 39. 



30 FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND. 

FROM NORFOLK TO BALTIMORE, 

191 miles. 



Miles. 
To the mouth of the 
Rappahannock, as 
in the preceding 

table, 60 

Smith's Point, 25 

Outlet of Potomac, 10 
Outlet of Pautuxent 
river, 18 



Jililes. 

Cone Point, 5 

Sharp's Island, 15 

Three Sisters, 16 

Annapolis, 10 

Sandy Point, 6 

Mouth of the Pataps- 

co river, 11 

Baltimore, * 15 



The Chesapeake Bat, the principal water commu- 
nication on the foregoing routes, stretches in a direction 
nearly north from the mouth of James river, or Lynha- 
ven Bay, to the mouth of the Susquehannah river, near 
the north line of Maryland. It is 180 miles long, and 
varies from 10 to 25 miles in breadtli, dividing the 
states of Virginia and Maryland into tvi'o parts, called 
the eastern and western shores. It has numerous com- 
modious harbors, and affords a safe navigation. Among 
the waters which flow into it, (commencing north) are 
the Susquehannah, Potomac, Rappahannock, York 
and James rivers. It has been estimated that the Ches- 
apeake Bay, including its minor bays and inlets, con- 
tains an aggregate of 3600 square miles. 

FROM NORFOLK TO RICHMOND, 
The usual route is by water up the James river ; on 
which steam boats are constantly plying between the 
two places. We, however, give the routes by land and 
water, with the intermediate distances : 

* See page 43. 



JAMESTOWN. 



31 



By water — 122 miles. 

Miles. 
Mouth of Elizabeth r. 9 

Day's Point, 10 

Hog Island, 16 

Swan's Point, 9 

Chickahoraany r.. . .. 4 

Fort Powhatan, 21 

Eppe's Island, 17 

Chesterfield, 23 

Richmond, 13 



By land — 1 10 miles. 

Miles. 
Mouth of Ehzabeth r. 9 
Cross Hampton Roads 

to Hampton, 8 

Half-way House, .... 11 

York, 10 

Williamsburgh, ..... 12 

Chiswell, 14 

Cumberland, 16 

Chickahomany river, 16 
Richmond, 14 



Williamsburgh, 50 miles from Norfolk, is situated 
between York and James rivers, and was formerly the 
metropoUs of the state. Its streets are regularly laid 
out, and many of the buildings are handsome. Wil- 
liam and Mary's College, located in this place, w^as 
founded in 1691, and was liberally endowed at that 
time by the reigning king and queen of England. It 
has a library of between 3 and 4000 volumes, and a val- 
uable philosophical apparatus. 



Jamestown, betw^een 50 and 60 miles below Rich- 
mond, on the north side of James River, was founded 
in 1608, and was the first English settlement in the 
United States. The scite is a very beautiful one, and 
the settlement itself must have been but a few steps 
from the river. On each side there is a delightful and 
variegated succession of woodlands, meadows, pas- 
tures, and green fields : in front, appears the broad ex- 
panse of James river, with its multitude of white, glid- 
ing sails. The opposite hills are picturesque : some 
are entirely covered with woods ; others, partly clear- 
c 



32 JAMESTOWN. 

ed, presenting, in the proper season, patches of white, 
wavy corn. To increase the richness of this scenery,. 
here and there are distinguislied the old and elegant 
mansions of the Virginia planters, like points of beauty 
in a fine picture. 

No vestige of Jamestown is now to be seen, except 
the ruins of a church steeple, about 30 feet high, and 
fringed to its smmit with i-unning ivy. Near by is a 
burying ground with its venerable tombstones, and 
spotted with dark green shrubbery and melancholy 
flowers. It looks like a lonely, unfrequented place, 
and there is something deeply interesting in contem- 
plating these vestiges of an age gone by. 

In this scene of silence und of solitude, the rude fore- 
fathers of the hamlet have, for ages, rested. Nothing 
at this day remains but the land they cultivated, and 
the graves in which they repose ; but the places are 
well known, and with increasing years will grow more 
venerable and illustrious. 

The celebrated. Pochahontas (daughter of the Indian 
chief Powhatan) was the tutelary guardian of this set- 
tlementj and some of her descendants are now hving 
in Virginia. Among the. most distinguished, is the 
Hon. John Randolph. His descent is thus given in a 
Virginia paper : 

" Pochahontas was afterwards in London, in compa- 
ny with her husband, whose name was Rolf, an Eng- 
lishman by birth. She was presented to the King aijd 
Glueen, by Lady Delaware and her husband. She was 
present at several masquerades and assemblies, all 
which sights gave her great gratification. Soon after- 
terwards, having embarked on board the sliip George, 



RICHMOND. 35 

from London, for Virginia, she fell sick, and died at 
Gravesend. 

" Her young child, Thomas Rolf, was left at Plym- 
outh, under the care of Sir Thomas Stukely, who de- 
sired to keep it. Pochahontas died in 1617, aged 23. 
Thomas Rolph, her son, afterwards became a citizen of 
Virginia. He left at his death a daughter ; this daugh- 
ter married Col. Robert Boiling, by whom she left an 
only son and five daughters, who were married respec- 
tively to Col. Richard Randolph, Col. John Fleming, 
Doct. William Gay, Mr. Thomas Eldridge, and Mr. 
James Murray. 

" The noble blood of Pochahontas flows in many 
veins • and the Orator of Roanoke boasts his descent 
from the daughter of Powhatan." 

Richmond, the capital of Virginia, is situated on the 
north bank of James river, directly at its lower falls, at 
the head of tide water, and 150 miles from its mouth. 
The town rises in an aclivity from the water, and pre- 
sents a beautiful and highly picturesque appearance. 
A part -of the town, on what is called Schockoe hill, 
overlooks the lov/er part ; and from the capitol, which 
is on the greatest eminence, a most delightful prospect 
is had of the river and adjacent country. Besides the 
capitol,' which is a handsome edifice, the .city contains 
an elegant court house, a state prison, (which cost 
$135,000) an alms house. 2 markets, a museum, an 
academy of fine arts, a female orphan asylum, 3 banks, 
and 8 churches ; one of which, built on the ruins of the 
theatre in the conflagration of which 90 citizens perish-- 
ed, is very beautiful. At the Virginia armory, which is 



# 



34 MONTICELLO. 

erected here, are manufactured between 4 and 5000 
muskets and rifles annually. The population of the 
city in 1830, was 16,0S5. 

Manchester, directly opposite, is connected with 
Richmond by two substantial bridges, and is a flour- 
ishing place. 

Among the many objects of attraction in Virginia, 
are Monticello, the former residence of ex-president 
Jefferson, the Warm and Hot Springs, the Natural 
Bridge, and the Berkley Springs, 

From Richmond to Monticello, the distance is 80 miles, 
m a north-westerly direction ; the road passing Gooch- 
land county line, distant 20 miles ; Fluvanna county 
line, 33 ; Gordonsville, 12 ; Milton, on the Rivanna 
river, 1 2 : Monticello, 3. 

Monticello, was much resorted to during the life 
time of its sage and philosopher ; and since his de- 
cease, the consecrated spot of his interment is a place 
of frequent visitation. It is thus described by a late 
traveller : 

" I ascended the winding road which leads from 
Charlottesville to Monticello. The path leads a cir- 
cuitous ascent of about 2 miles up the miniature moun- 
taiuj on which stand the mansion, the farm, and the 
grave of Jefferson. On entering the gate which opens 
into the enclosure, numerous paths diverge in various 
directions, winding through beautiful groves to the 
summit of the hill. From the peak on which the hoiise 
stands, a grand and nearly illuminated view opens, of 
the thickly wooded hills and fertile vallieB, which 



^ 



MONTICELLO. 35 

i^tretch out on either side. The University, with its 
dome, porticoes, and colonadas, looks like a fair city in 
the plain ; Charlottesville seems to be directly beneath. 
No spot can be imagined as combining greater advan- 
tages of grandeur, healthfulness and seclusion. The 
house is noble in its appearance ; two large columns 
support a portico, which extends from the wings, and 
into it the front door opens. The apartments are neat- 
ly furnished and embellished with statues, busts, por- 
traits, and natural curiosities. The grounds and out 
houses have been neglected ; Mr. Jefferson's attention 
being absorbed from such personal concerns, by the 
cares attendant on the superintendance of the Univer- 
sity, which, when in health, he visited daily since its 
erection commenced. 

" At a short distance behind the mansion, in a quiet, 
shaded spot, the visitor sees a square enclosure, sur- 
rounded by a low unmortered stone wall, which he en- 
ters by a neat wooden gate. This is the family burial 
ground, containing 10 or 15 graves, none of them 
marked by epitaphs, and only a few distinguished by 
any memorial. On one side of this simple cemetry, is 
the resting place of the Patriot and Philosopher. When 
I saw it, the vault was just arched, and in readiness for 
the plain stone wliich is to cover it. May it ever con- 
tinue like Washington's without any adventitious at- 
tractions or conspicuousness ; for, when we or our pos- 
terity need any other memento of our debt of honor to 
those names, than their simple inscription on paper, 
wood or stone, gorgeous tombs would be a mockery to 
their memories. When gratitude shall cease to con- 

c2 



36 NATURAL BRIDGE. 

secrate their remembrance in the hearts of our citi- 
zens, no cenotaph will inspire the reverence we owe to 
them." 

From Monticello to the Warm Springs, is 91 miles, in 
a west i-rly direction, passing through Charlottesville 2 
miles, Rockfish Gap 24, Waynesboro' 2, Staunton 12, 
Cloverdale 28, Green Valley 10 ; from whence to the 
Warm Springs is 13 miles. The temperature of these 
springs is about 96°, and sufficient water issues from 
them to turn a mill. They are used for bathing, and 
are esteemed valuable in rheumatic complaints. 

The Bath or Hot Spring is 5 miles farther. The 
stream is small ; but the temperature is much greater 
than that of the Warm Springs, being 112°. 

These springs flow into the Jackson, a source of the 
James river. 

The Natural Bridge is 150 miles west of Rich- 
mond, and by diverging to the left, without visiting 
Monticello, may be taken in the route to the Warm 
Springs. This bridge is over Cedar creek, in Rock- 
bridge county, 12 miles south west of Lexington, and 
is justly considered one of the greatest natural curiosi- 
ties in the world. The river at this place runs through 
a chasm in a hill. The chasm is 90 feet wide at the top, 
200 feet deep, and the sides almost perpendicular. The 
bridge is formed by a huge rock thrown completely 
across this chasm at the top. The rock forming tlie 
bridge is 60 feet broad in the middle, and is covered 
with earth and trees. It forms a sublime spectacle 



rROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON. 37 

when examined from ^e marmn of the river be- 
neath.* 

FROM RICHMOND TO WASHINGTON 
CITY— 120 miles. 
A stage is generally taken at Richmond for the mouth 
of the Potomac creek, 9 miles beyond Fredericksburgh ; 
from whence steam boats pass up the Potomac to 
Washington. The intermediate distances are as fol- 
lows ; 



By stage. Miles. 
From Richmond to 
Chickahomany riv- 
er, 10 

Hanover Court House, 10 
White Chimneys,. ... 10 
Mattapony river,. .. . 8 

Bowhng Green, 6 

Vileboro', 8 



Miles. 

Fredericksburgh,.... 14 
Mouth of Potomac 

OityCl^lVa* • • • • ••• • • • • «/ 

By steam-boat. 

Mount Vernon, 30 

Alexandria, 9 

Washington, 6 



Fredericksburgh is situated on the south side of 
the Rappahannock river, 110 miles from its outlet into 

* A student of one of the Virginia colleges, a few 
years since, attempted the daving effort of climbing up 
one of the sides of this precipice. He had ascended 50 
or 60 feet before he was aware of the extreme hazard of 
the undertaking. It was then too late to retreat, and 
to progress seemed certain destruction. He, however, 
continued ascending from one crevice to another, hold- 
ing on the occasional protuberances of the rock, until 
he reached the top. But so arduous was the labor, 
that his hands and limbs were severely lacerated, and 
such was the effect on his mind of the perils and dan- 
gers encountered, that he became partially deranged, 
and never fully recovered the possession of his mental 
faculties. 



38 MOUNT VERNON, 

the Chesapeake Bay. It contains a court-house, jai!, 
academy, 2 banlcs, 4 churches, and about 500 dwelhng 
houses ; and being pear the head of navigation and 
surrounded by a fertile country, it enjoys an extensive 
and advantageous trade. 

The first object of immediate interest on ascending 
the Potomac, is 

Mount Vernon, on the south side of the river, 39 
miles from the mouth of Potomac creek. To tliis sa- 
cred spot the mind of every American recurs with the 
most enthusiastic devotion. He looks upon it as conse- 
crated ground. Here the immortal Washington, after 
having conducted the American armies forth to victory 
and independence, retired to enjoy the rich reward of 
his services in the warm hearted gratitude of his coun- 
trymen, and in the peaceful seclusion of private life. 

This place, till within a few years, was the residence 
of Judge Washington, the nephew of the General ; 
but after his decease in 1829, the estate descended to. a 
nephew of the Judge, John Adams Washington, who 
died in 1832 ; since which the estate has remained in 
the possession of the widow and cliildren of the latter. 
The road to it is almost uninhabited, and difficult to 
trace. The house stands on an eminence, embracine' a 
delightful view of the Potomac, with a rich and beauti- 
ful lawn extending in front to the river. 

The Tomb of Washington is visited as an inter- 
esting object of contemplation. The Old Tomb, so call- 
ed, in which the remains were originally interred, is 
fast going to decay ; but the new tomb, more remote 
from the river, the construction of which was commenc- 



I 



ALEXANDRIA. 39 

ed by the General previous to his decease, and into 
which his remains were removed in 1830, is of sohd 
and enduring materials. Here slumber in peaceful si- 
lence the ashes of the great and patriotic Father of Lib- 
erty. No monument has yet been erected to his mem- 
ory ; and the only inscription on the tomb is the follow- 
ing : "I am the resurrection and ihe life." 

Alexandria, an incorporated city, 9 miles farther, 
on the west bank of the river, is a place of extensive 
business and of fashionable resort during the sittings of 
Congress. It contains a court house, 6 churches and 
a theological seminary. 

The Museum at this place, among other things, con- 
tains an elegant satin robe, scarlet on one side and white 
on the other, in wliich Gen. Washington was baptised ; 
a penknife, wdth a pearl handle, given to him by his 
mother when he was in his twelfth year, and which he 
kept fifty-six years ; a pearl button, from the coat he 
wore at his first inauguration as President of the Uni- 
ted States in the old City Hall, New- York ; a black 
glove, worn by him while in mourning for his mother ; 
part of the last stick of sealing loax which he used ; the 
original of the last letter loritten by him, being a polite 
apology, in behalf of himself and Mrs. Washington, for 
declining an invitation to a ball at Alexandria ; it is 
penned with singular neatness, accuracy and precision, 
and contains this expression — "Alas! our dancing days 
are over ;" a beautiful masonic apron, with the belt of 
scarlet satin and the white kid gloves worn by him the 
last time he shared in the social ceremonies of the 
" n^ystic tie," 



40 ■ WASHINGTON CITY. 

The country between this city and the capital is but 
thinly inhabited, and the soil poor and unproductive ; 
but the road is good, and a ride to Alexandria consti- 
tutes one of the amusements of a winter at Wash- 
ington. 

WASHINOTON CITY 

Is 6 miles from Alexandria. As the seat of govern- 
ment of the Union, it is a place of much resort during 
the session of congress in the winter ; but is mostly de- 
serted by strangers in the summer. It is situated on the 
Maryland side of the Potomac, and on a point of land 
formed by the junction of the Eastern Branch. The 
District of Columbia, in which the city is located, was 
ceded to the United States by Maryland and Virginia 
in 1790, and in 1800 it became the seat of the general 
government. This District is about 10 miles square, 
lying on both sides of the Potomac, and is under the 
immediate direction of congress. 

The original plan of Wasliington when completed, 
its public edifices, and the elegance of its situation, will 
render it one of the most splended cities in the world. 

The Capitol stands on a high and lofty eminence, 
and commands a delightful prospect of the Pennsylva- 
nia Avenue, the President's House, Georgetown and 
the Potom.ac, the General Post-Office, the Navy Yard, 
Greenleaf's Point, the bridge on the river, and the road 
to Alexandria and Mount Vernon. The capitol is built 
of white free stone, has two wings, and is a veiy mag- 
nificent edifice. 

The exterior exhibits a I'usticated basement, of the 
height of the first story ; the- two other stories are com- 



Washington city. 41 

prised in a Corinthian elevation of pilasters and col- 
umns — the columns 30 feet in height, form a noble ad- 
vancing portico on the east, 160 feet in extent — the 
centre of which is crowned with a pediment of 80 feet 
. span : a receding loggia of 100 feet extent, distinguish- 
es the centre of the west front. 

The building is surrounded by a balustrade of stone 
and covered with a lofty dome in the centre, and a flat 
dome on each wing. 

The Chamber of the House of Representatives is in the 
2d story of the south. wing, and is semicircular, in the 
form of the ancient Grecian theatre ; the chord of the 
longest dimension is 96 feet, and the height to the high- 
est point of the domical ceiling is 60 feet. This room 
is surrounded by 24 columns of variegated native mar- 
ble, or breccia, from the banks of the Potomac, with 
capitals of white Italian marble, carved after a speci- 
men of the Corinthian order, still remaining among the 
ruins of Athens, which stand on a base of free stone, 
and support a magnificent dome painted in a very rich 
and splendid style to represent that of the Pantheon of 
Rome, and executed by an interesting young Italian 
artist, named Bonani, who died a few years ago. In 
the centre of this dome is erected, to admit the light 
from above, a handsome cupola, from wiiich is suspend- 
ed a massy bronze gilt chandelier of immense weight, 
which reaches within ten feet of the floor of the cham- 
ber. The speaker's chair is elevated and canopied, 
and on a level with the loggia or promenade for the 
members, consisting of columns and pilasters of mar- 
ble and stone. Above tlxis, and under a sweeping arch 
near the dome, is placed the model of a collossal figure 



42 WASHINGTON CITY. 

of Liberty, and on the entablature beneath is sculptur- 
ed an American Eagle. In front of the chair and im- 
mediately over the entrance, stands a beautiful statue 
in marble representing History, recording the events of 
the nation. Between the columns is suspended fring- 
ed drapery of crimsoned moreens, festooned near the 
gallery to limit the sound and assist the hearing. A 
magnificent portrait of La Fayette, at full length, paint- 
ed by a French artist, decorates a panel on one side the 
loggia. 

The Senate Chamber in the north wing is of the same 
semicircular form, 75 feet in its greatest length and 45 
high ; a screen of Ionic columns, with capitals after 
those of the temple of Minerva Polias, support a galle- 
ry to the east and form a loggia below, and a new gal- 
lery of iron pillars and railings of a light and eleg-ant 
structure projects from the circular walls : the dome 
ceiling is enriched with square caissons of stucco. 

The walls are covered with straw colored drapery, 
between small pilasters of marble in the wall. Col- 
umns of breccia, or Potomac marble, support the east- 
ern gallery. 

The Rotundo comprehends the spacious area between 
the two wings of the structure, and is of a circular form. 
It is entirely of marble, (and so indeed is every perma- 
nent part of the capitol,) excepting the light doors cov- 
ered with green baize that lead out of it, and the frame 
of the sky light above. The height of the dome soars 
beyond the roof, and it may well be imagined, is most 
imposing and sublime. The floor is beautifully paved, 
and the sound of a single voice, uttering words in an 
ordinary tone, reverberates aloft like the faint rumbling 



WASHINGTON CITT. 43 

of distant thunder. When two or more converse, there 
is an incessant roaring, absorbing the entire medium of 
sound. Even the simple touch of a walking stick on 
the pavement distinctly echoes along the circumference, 
and dies away slowly in the capacious vault ; so ex- 
tremely elastic is the air within. There is nothing that 
equals it in this country ; and, of itself, it well deserv^es 
a journey to Washington.' 

In the niches designedly left about fifteen feet from 
the floor, are four sculptured pieces as large as life, de- 
signed to commemorate the aboriginal character and 
some of the prominent events in the early history of 
the country. The scene of the first device is laid in 
1773, and is designed to represent a fearful contest be- 
tween Daniel Boon, an early settler in one of the west- 
em states, and an Indian chief. The second represents 
the landing of the Pilgrims at Plymouth in 1610. The 
third is a representation of William Penn and two In- 
dian chiefs in a treaty in 1682, under the memorable 
elm on the right bank of the Delaware, near Philadel- 
phia. And the fourth represents the narrow escape in 
1606 of Capt. John Smith, the first successful adven- 
turer in Virginia, from the uplifted war club of King 
Powhatan. The figure of Pocahontas, in the attitude 
of supplicating the mercy of her father in behalf of the 
intended victim, is beautifully wrought, and the whole 
exhibits much elegance of design and workmanship. 
In the remaining niches, which are designed to be filled 
with paintings, are already placed the following, exe- 
cuted by the late Col Trumbull, one of the aids of Gen. 
Washington: The Declaration of Independence; Sur- 
render of Gen. Burgoyne ; Surrender of CornwaUis at 

D 



44 WASHINGTON CITT. 

Yorktown ; and the Resicrnation of Gen. Washington 
at Annapohs, Dec. 23, 1 783. The figures in these paint- 
ings are full length, and are said to be excellent like- 
nesses. The designs and execution are admirable, and 
exhibit the great and almost unrivalled talent of the 
artist. 

The Library. — Passing from the Rotundo, westerly, 
along the gallery of the principal stairs, the Library room 
door presents itself. This room is 92 feet long, 34 
wide, and 36 high. It is divided into twelve arched al- 
coves, ornamented with fluted pilasters, copied from 
the pillars in the celebrated Octagon Tower at Athens. 
At the entrance, in the centre of the room, which is ap- 
proached from the great central Rotundo, are two col- 
umns of stone, with capitals corresponding with those of 
the pilasters, and immediately opposite and fronting the 
window which leads into the western colonnade, stand 
two simlar columns of stone. These pillars, with al- 
coves, support two galleries, extending nearly the whole 
length of the room on both sides, and divided into the 
same number of shelved recesses as the lower apart- 
ment. From these recesses springs the arch which 
forms the ceiling, eleganily ornamented with rich stuc- 
co borders, panels, and wreaths of flowers. On the 
roof, which is about ten feet above the ceiling, are 
three sky lights, the walls of which are beautifully dec- 
orated with stucco ornaments. The principal apart- 
ments, as well as the committee rooms on the north 
attached to it, are handsomely furnished with sofas, 
mahogany tables, desks, Brussels carpetting, &c. 

This extensive collection of books contains at pres- 
ent about fourteen thousand volumes, in various Ian- 



I 



WASHINGTON CITY. 45 

guawes. The library is well chosen. The classical 
department, in particular, comprises many rare books.. 
Mr. Jefferson's arrangement of them is still presers'ed, 
founded, it is presumed, on Bacon's classification of 
science ; and they are divided into chapters, according 
to the subjects to which they relate. 

Besides the principal rooms above mentioned, two 
others deserve notice, from the peculiarity of their 
architecture — the round apartment under the Rotun- 
do, enclosing 40 columns supporting ground arches, 
which form the floor of the Rotundo. This room is 
similar to the substructions of the European Cathe- 
drals, and may take the name of Crypt from them. 
The other room is used by the Supreme Court of the 
United States, and is of the same style of arcliitecture, 
with a bold and curious arched ceiling — the columns 
of these rooms are of massy Dorick, imitated from 
the temples of Postum. Twenty-five other rooms, of 
various sizes, are appropriated to the officers of the 
two houses of congress and of the Supreme Court, 
and 45 to the use of committees ; they are all vault- 
ed and floored with brick and stone. Three princi- 
pal stair cases are spacious and varied in their form ; 
these, with the vestibules and numerous corridors or 
passages, it would be difficult to describe intelligibly. 
We will only say, that they are in conformity to the 
dignity of tlie building and style of the parts already 
named. 

The East Front presents three marble figures, rep- 
resenting the Genius of America, Hope and Justice. 
They are executed with much taste and judgment, and 
present an imposing appearance. 



46 WASHINGTON CITT. 

Fronting the captol, towards the Pennsylvania ^ve- 
nue, and within an oblong marble vase, is a navsu mon- 
ument, originally erected at the navy yard, in memory 
of the American officers who fell in the Tripolitan war. 
It is a simple column, wrought in Italy at the expense 
of the survivors. 

The President's House, which is also constructed of 
white free stone, two stories high, with four spacious 
buildings near it for the accommodation of the heads of 
department, make together an interesting spectacle for 
the visitant. 

Perhaps there is no spot in the United States that 
holds out more inducements to a traveller than this city 
during the sessions of congress. It is the theatre on 
which the pride and power of the American nation are 
congregated to control the destinies of a mighty people. 
It is the residence of all the foreign ministers, and em- 
braces a large portion of the gay and fashionable world. 
The levees at the house of the president are fascinat- 
ing ; and the apartments on these occasions are open 
and accessible to every citizen of the republic. 

Among other places of interest at and near Wash- 
ington, and which deserve the attention of visitants, are 
the Navy Yard ; the Columbian College, situate on a 
high range of ground north of the city, and about a 
mile from the President's House ; and the National 
Burying Ground, about a mile south east of the capitol. 

The ground on which Washington is built is high, 
airy and salubrious ; and the city, from the extent of its 
territory, presents the appearance of several distinct 
villages. It is however rapidly increasing and improv- 
ing, and contained in 1830 a population of 18,837. 



GEORGETOWN. 47 

Its principal public houses are the National Hotel, 
one of the most splended in the U. S. ; the Indian 
Glueen Hotel ; and the Mansion Hotel. They are all 
located on the Pennsylvania Avenue. 

Georgetown is on the same side of the Potomac 
with Washington, at tlie distance of 3 miles west of the 
capitol. It is very pleasantly situated, and is a place of 
considerable trade. The country around it is richly di- 
versified, and the location of the Catholic Monastery 
is very delightful. It stands on the borders of " the 
heights," in the north west part of the town, and over- 
looks the body of the town below. The enclosure em- 
braces about one acre. On the north side is the acade- 
my conducted by the nuns, consisting of a long range 
of buildings three stories high. In the middle of the 
front or eastern side stands the chapel. On the left of 
the chapel is the room of the father confessor, and al- 
so the private apartment of the nuns, into which no 
unhallov/ed tread of the worldly and profane is ever ad- 
mitted. 

The Academy, or High School for Ladies, is the 
most interesting appendage of the convent. It contains 
a boarding school of upwards of one hundred pupils, 
and a f^-ee or charity school of a much larger number of 
day scholars. What strikes the visitor with most pleas- 
ure is the perfect system and order with wliich every 
thing is done. The young misses who compose the 
school are regularly and rigidly trained to do every 
thing on plan and method. 

The seminary is divided into four classes. The hall 
of the first class contains an extensive cabinet of min- 
d2 



48 CHESAPEAKE AND OHIO CANAL. 

erals, to which many rare and valuable specimens have 
been presented by the officers of our navy, and by cath- 
olics of the eastern world. It has also many rich spe- 
cimens of art ; the contributions of wealthy and pow- 
erful patrons of the church. The sword, sheath and 
belt of Iturbide, once a hero of South America, two 
of whose daughters are now in this convent, were re- 
cently presented to the cabinet by Commodore Rogers. 
It also claims to have many sacred relics, such as shreds 
or scraps from the gannents of numerous saints — frag- 
ments from the church and tomb of St. Peter, and of 
other saints — pieces of the wood of the cross, &c. &c. 

The number of nuns in this convent, at present, is 
about sixty. Among them are descendants of rich and 
powerful families. Their employment consists in con- 
fessions, vigils, fasts, penances, reading and religious 
exercises, in teaching, in domestic concerns, and in 
making fine needle-work for sale. The charity school 
embraces about 200 day pupils. For their humanity 
and benevolence in collecting and teaching these chil- 
dren, the nuns deserve praise. In these employments 
they appear happy ; but the happiness of these devo- 
tees, if real, must be of the negative kind. 

The Chesapeake and Ohio Canal was commenc- 
ed on the 4th of July, 1S28, but has not been prosecut- 
ed with the vigor originally contemplated. It was de- 
signed to have it extend from Georgetown, D. C. to 
near Pittsburgh, Penn., where it was to unite with the 
Pennsylvania canal and the Ohio river ; its length 360 
miles, and its lockage 4004 feet. 



BALTIMORE. 49 

FROM AVASHINGTON TO BALTIMORE, 

38 miles. 
There are two lines of stages running daily between 
Washington and Baltimore. The intermediate distan- 
ces are as follows : 



Mites. 

Bladen sburgh, 6 

Vansville, 8 

Patuxent r. w. branch 3 
do. e. branch, 4 



Miles. 

Patapsco river, 9 

G winn's Falls, 5 

Baltimore, 3 



BALTIMORE.* 
The rapid growth and present extent and population 
of this city is truly remarkable, and to be ascribed no 
less to the spirit of enterprise which has always charac- 
terized its inhabitants, than to the natural advantages 
of its position. Its scite is on the north side, and at 
the head of tide water on the Patapsco river, 14 miles 
above its entrance into the Chesapeake. The centen- 
ary of its existence was celebrated in August, 1829. 
On the 8th of that month, in 1729, the f\rst act was 
passed for laying out the town on sixty acres of land, 
from which the native forests had then but partially giv- 
en place to the axe and the plough. These sixty acres 
were purchased at 40 shillings per acre, to be paid in 
money, or tobacco at one penny per pound. The pro- 
gress of the city at first was sluggish and unpromising. 
Thirty- three years after its location, (1752,) it contain- 
ed but twenty-five houses, and a small brig and sloop 
were the only vessels owned in the town. Even up to 

+ For a principal part of the following description of 
Baltimore, the Editor is indebted to John S. Skinner, 
Esq. the P. Master of that city. 



50 BALTIMORE. 

1773, the merchants were compelled to send their ad- 
vertisements to Annapolis or Philadelphia, there being 
no newspaper then published in Baltimore. Now, with 
its population rising above 80,000, it may be consider- 
ed the third city in the union ; whilst, for its Various 
manufactories and public buildings, ornamental to the 
city and remarkable for their costliness, taste and com- 
modiousness, it stands undoubtedly in the first rank for 
enterprise and public spirit. For tobacco and flour, 
Baltimore is the leading market ; for flour, the first in 
the world. Within 20 miles around, the water power 
is almost incalculable. It drives at present more than 
sixty flour inills, one of which has turned out 32, COO 
barrels in one year. There are, too, within that com- 
pass, twelve cotton manufactories, keeping in motion 
30,000 spindles, besides manufactories of cloth, powder, 
paper, iron, glass, steam engines, extensive chemical 
works, and one mill by steam power for manufacturing 
flour and copper, that has turned off 200 barrels a day, 
and works annually about 600.000 pounds of raw cop- 
per. Many of these may conveniently be visited by so- 
journers in the city, on foot or by short rides in the im- 
mediate vicinity. 

The city, as re-chartered in 1S18, contains 10,000 
acres, and embraces within the limits built upon, a 
court house, jail, penitentiary, lunatic asylum, two the- 
atres, the largest circus in America, an exchange, an 
observatory founded by the father of the gallant Com- 
modore Porter, two museums, five market houses, ten 
banks, gas works, (the first in tliis country for lighting 
the streets and houses,) a public library, a medical col- 
lege, and 45 houses of public worship. 



BALTIMORE. 51 

Most of these establishments would be worthy of the 
! reffard, of tourists. It cannot be expected that we 
should describe them minutely, our object being but 
< briefly to indicate their existence ; but almost all stran- 
; gers make a visit to the cathedral, the exchange, the 
I public fountains, of which there are four tastefully or- 
namented and giving a copious supply of pure spring 
water ; the museums, the monuments, and the real 
roads. 

The Cathedral is built after the Grecian Ionic or- 
der, on a plan drawn by that distinguished and lament- 
ed architect, the late H. B. Latrobe. Its outward length 
is 190 feet, its width 177, and its height to the summit 
of the cross that surmounts the dome is 127 feet. A 
minute description of the numerous ornaments and 
specimens of taste in tlie fine arts that abound in this 
magnificent building, \tOuld be incompatible with the 
plan of this work ; but wb may advise the tourist that, 
amongst others, it contains the largest organ in the 
United States, with 6000 pipes and 36 stops, and two 
very splendid paintings— one the descent from the cross, 
by Paulin Guerin, a present from Louis XVI — anoth- 
er, presented by the present King of France, represent- 
ing St. Louis, attended by his chaplain and armor-bear- 
er, burying one of his ofliicers slain before Tunis, as an 
encouragement to his officers and soldiers, who, for fear 
of contagion, would have left their comrades to be de- 
voured by beasts and birds of prey.* 

* It was in this Cathedral that the funeral honors 
were paid to Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, the last 
surviving signer of the Declaration of Independence. 



52 BALTIMORE. 

The Merchants' Exchange, built by private sub- 
scription, is another monument to the pubUc spirit of 
the citizens. Tliis edifice, from Water to Second, front- 
ing on Gay-street, is 255 by a depth on the two first of 
141 feet, and is three stories high exchisive of the base- 
ment. In the centre is the great hall, 86 feet by 53, 
lio-hted from the dome, which is 90 feet from the floor. 
In this hall, to which they have access by three entran- 
ces from the streets, the merchants convene daily from 
1 to 2 o'clock. 

On a scale corresponding with these buildings in ex-, 
tent and convenience, according to their several de- 
signs and objects, the traveller may be edified and 
amused by an inspection of the other public edifices, 
which here we could only designate by name. But in 
any tiling like a picture of Baltimore as a guide for the 
tourist, its monuments and it rail roads, leading to the 
Ohio and the Susquehannah, are decidedly the most 
striking features. The one called the Battle Monu- 
ment, an elegant marble structure about 55 feet high, 
was commenced on the scite of the old court house in 
Washington Square, on the 12th of September, 1815, 
in memory of those who, on the 12th and 13th of the 
same month in the preceding year, had fallen gallantly 
in defence of the city. 

Another splendid monument called the Washington 
Monument, built of white marblC; ornamental to the 
city and honorable to its inhaljitants, (but vain as 



He died in the city on the 13th Nov. 1832, and his re- 
mains were conveyed for interment to the vault on the 
premises of the family mansion, about 16 miles distant. 



BALTIMORE. 53 

an effort to extend the fame of him whose glory is as 
wide and imperishable as the empire of letters,) has 
been erected on an elevation a little north of the com- 
pact part of the city, presented for that purpose by the 
late Col. John E. Howard, the hero of Eutaw and of 
the Cowpens. The base is 50 feet square and 23 high, 
on which is placed another square of about half the ex- 
tent and elevation. On tliis, is a column 20 feet in di- 
ameter at the base, and 14 at the top. The colossal 
statue of Washington, the largest one in modern ages, 
is placed on the summit 163 feet from the ground. This 
monument is to be embellished with bas reliefs and oth- 
er decorations. 

The Baltimore and Ohio Rail Road commences 
a short distance from the Wasliington turnpike road on 
West Pratt street, where the company have establish- 
ed a depot. Under the authority given by the City 
Council, a line of railway has also been laid from the 
termination of the main stem of the road, at the Depot, 
down Pratt street to the Basin, whence it is construct- 
ed to the City Block, and runs parallel with the entire 
water front of the city, communicating with all the 
wharves, and intersecting all the principal streets which 
extend northwesterly and southerly, as far down as the 
public property south of Jones' Falls, at which place 
there have been conveyed to the company, by the Cor- 
poration of Baltimore, two squares of the ground, fa- 
vorably situated for the convenient and economical 
transaction of an extensive commerce. An uninter- 
rupted communication is thus opened along the whole 
extent of the Road, between the Port of Baltimore and 
the Potomac river at the Point of Rocks, a distance of 



54 BALTIMORE. 

67 i miles ; from whence a lateral road 2 or 3 miles 
long, is completed to the city of Frederick. 

It was originally designed to have extended this road 
to the Ohio river at Pittsburgh, 300 miles from Balti- 
more ; but it must for the present terminate at the 
Point of Rocks, a narrow pass, principally occupied by 
the Chesapeake and Ohio canal — a legal decision fa- 
voring the right of the canal company to an exclusive 
occupancy thereof having been made. 

A double track has been laid most of the way, and 
the travelling and transportation have thus far fully 
equalled the anticipations of the stockholders. Loco- 
motive power has been found to be the most economi- 
cal, and will probably be used for most of the business 
of the road. 

A ride as far at least as Ellicott's mills, 13 miles from 
Baltimore, is considered almost a matter of course by 
strangers visiting the city. The scenery on the route, 
being mostly in the vicinity of the Patapsco river, is 
picturesque and interesting. Among the works con- 
nected with the road, the Carrollton Viaduct, over 
Gwynn's Falls, about a mile and a half from the ci- 
ty, is one of the most magnificent pieces of arcliitect- 
ure in America — valike beautiful in proportion, materials 
and workmanship. This bridge is built of a beautiful 
granite, contains one arch of about 80 feet span, and 
40 feet in height, and is 312 feet in length from end to 
end of the parapets. 

The Jackson Bridge, is a single arch 109 feet long, 
of entirely novel structure, the invention of Col. Long, 
of the company's board of engineers. The Deep Cut, 
Uirough a high and broad ridge of land, is about three 



BALTIMORE. 55 

fourths of a mile in length, its greatest depth 70 feet, 
and its width, at the summit of the ridge, 184 feet. 
Cluantities of carbonized wood were found sixty feet 
below the natural surface, and a stump of a tree with 
its roots at forty feet. The entire excavation is 263,- 
848 cubic yards. The Great Embankment at Gadsby^s 
Run, five miles from Baltimore, is nearly a mile in 
length, its greatest elevation 56 feet, and its greatest 
width 191 feet. At the top, the usual width of 26 feet 
is preserved for a double set of rails, Gadsby^s Run 
Viaducty affords a passage to the waters of the run 
tbj-ough the embankment. The arch, composed of 
dressed granite blocks, is of the extraordinary width of 
120 feet from opening to opening. The Patterson Via- 
duct, is an immense structure of granite, by which the 
road is carried to the opposite bank of the Patapsco. It 
is built of granite blocks, from one to seven tons in 
weight, and its entire length is 375 feet. It has four 
beautiful arches, the two centre ones each a span of 55 
feet, with extensive wings and water walls, abutments, 
&c. The height from the water to the crown of the 
arches is 30 feet. The corner stone of this structure 
was laid on the 6th May, 1829, and on the 4th of De- 
cember it was crossed on horseback by Wilham Pat- 
terson, esq. for whom the honor had been reserved, and 
whose name it bears. It embraces nearly 10,000 
perches of masonry. Besides these are the embank- 
ments at Stillhouse Run, two granite viaducts, the 
rock-side cutting at Buzzard's Roek, &c. 

The Baltimore and Susquehannah Rail Road, 
extending from Baltimore to York Haven, on the Sus- 
quehannah river, a distance of 60 miles, is completed as 

E 



5,6 -BALTIMORE. 

far as Chambersburgh, Penn., and will probably be fin- 
ished in the course of the present season, (1833.) 

For its houses for the accommodation of tiavellers, 
Bait more is not remarkable, excOpt for its City Hotel. 
Tliis is the most splendid edifice of its kind in the un- 
ion, if not in the world. It is centrally and most con- 
veniently situated, presenting a^ froHt on Calvert stl-eet 
of 117 feet, running back 183 — taking in two spacious 
.buildings formerly occupied as private residences, so 
connected with the establishment as to afford two dis- 
tinct private entrances on Fayette street, which lead to 
thirteen parlors arranged expressly for the aecommodfi- 
tion of private families, with chambers so connected 
with them as to make them as convenient for ladies and 
children as any private house. The City Hotel con- 
tains 172 apartments, and was built expressly for a ho- 
tel, under the direction of its experienced proprietor, 
Mr. Barnum. In the basement of the building on Cal- 
vert street is situated the Post-Office, into which the 
traveller may deposit his letters by a conduit from the 
large Reading Room above, where he can peruse, 
gratuitously, the papers from all parts of the union. 
There are also in the basem^it the offices of the Amer- 
ican Turf Register and of the American Farmer, as also 
the General Stage Office of Stockton & Stokes. All 
the mail coaches start from this hotel. To all other con- 
veniences combined in tliis establishment wliich travel- 
lers can dovsire, is added an observatory on the top of it, " 
constructed expressly to afford to its guests views of the_ 
harbor and Fort M'PIcnry, and the town, and the coun- 
try scats that surround it. 



I 



BALTIMORE. 57 

The Indian Q,uef,n, the next largest estabUshment, 
is well and liberally kept by Mr. Beltzhover, its oblig- 
ing and popular tenant, ' "^ 

And here we may close this sketch of that patriotic 
city by the remark, that it is in, nothing more distin- 
guished from our other large cities, than by the beauty 
of its environs. A succession of elevated scites rising 
one above another encifcle it •from the Pliiladelphia 
road on the east to the YVashington turnpike on the 
west. From these eminences the stranger obtains, at a 
single coitp d'ceil, a view of the town and its numerous 
approaches by .land and water, its monuments, its 
domes, its steeples and its towers. 

Some of these heights are crowned with private resi- 
dences, displaying all the taste and magnificence that 
characterize the seats of European opulence and re- 
finement. Of these, the most expensively embellished 
and conspicuous is " Green Movnt," the elegant sum- 
mer retreat of a gentleman whose taste and hospitality 
happily correspond with his ample possessions. To 
the splendid mansion, with all its incidental accommo- 
dations, on the most extensive and liberal scale, is con- 
nected a circular promenade of three quarters of a mile 
in length, oversliadowed by trees from every clime, 
tempting to healthful exercise, and offering on either 
hand every variety of fruit and flower that cultivated 
nature has prepared to delight the eye and gratify the 
palate. Whilst for the benevolent proprietor a sentiment 
of universal and profound respect consecrates his 100 
acres that border on this line of the city, guarding ihcm 
from the hand of depredation, strangers entitled to con- 
sideration visit Green Mount wjthout difficulty, and ad- 
mire it without measure. 



58 



FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA, 



FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

A daily land or water route can be taken ; but since 
the completion of the Frenchtown and New-Castle 
Rail Road, the latter is generally preferred. Both 
routes, however, are given, with the intermediate dis- 
tances : * 

Stage Route — 101 miles. 



Mijfs. 
From Baltimore to 

Herring's Run, ... 4 

Bird's Run, , , . 8 

Great Gunpowder 

falls, 3 

Little do 2 

Winter's Run, 4 

Hartford, 4 

Havre de Grace, .... 11 
Susquehannah river,. 1 

Charleston, 5 

North East river, .... 2 



MUes. 

Elkton, 8 

Big Elk Creek, .... 1 

Delaware state line, 2 

Christiana Creek, . . 3 

Christiana, 5 

Newport, 5 

Wilmington,* 4 

Brandy wine Creek,. 1 

v^nester, .......... lo 

Darby, 8 

Schuylkill river,. ... 6 

Philadelpliia, 1 



* Wilmington, a port of entry, and the largest town 
in the state of Delaware, is the only place of much im- 
portance on this route. The town is situated between 
Christiana and Brandywine creeks, 1 mile above their 
confluence, and 2 miles west of the Delaware river. 
The great facilities afforded here make it an important 
manufacturing town ; it having some of the finest flour- 
ing mills and cotton factories in the union. It con- 
tains from 10 to 12,000 inhabitants, a spacious alms- 
house, 3 banks, a U. S. arsenal, and 9 churches. An 
ancient building, called the old Swedish church, erect- 
ed in 1698, stands near the Christiana creek in this 
town ; opposite to which is an ancient church-yard, 
used by the first settlers of the place. It contains a 
few tomb-stones, the inscriptions of which are nearly 
defaced by the hand of tinie. 



FROM CALTIMOKE TO PHILADELPHIA. 



59 



Steam Boat and Rail Road Route 

J'tliles 



By steam boat. 
From Baltimore to 

FortM'Henry,. ... 3 

Sparrow's Point, .... 6 

NorthPoint, 4 

Miller's Island, 8 

Pool's Island, 8 

Grove Point, ........ 16 

Tm-key Point, 6 

French Town, 13 



IK^ miles. 
JMiles. 
By rail road. 
From French Town, 
Md. to New Cas- 
tle, Del Uk 

By steam boat. 
Christiana Creek, Del. 5 
Marcus Hook, I'enn. 8 

Chester, 4 

Lazaretto, 5 

FortMifflm, 5 



PhiJadelphia, 8 

This route is usually performed in from 9 to 10 hours. 

North Point, 13 miles from Baltimore, is the spot 
where the British troops landed in Sept. 1814, and 
where a battle was fought, simultaneous with a naval 
attack on Fort M'Henry. The engagement resulted in 
the defeat of the British, and the death of their com- 
mander, Gen. Ros3. 

From this point until reaching Turkey Point, at the 
mouth of Elk river, the Chesapeake presents a b' oad 
expanse and beautiful sheet of water, interspersed with 
an occasional island ; of which Pool's is the largest 
and the most picturesque. On approaching thB mouth 
of the Elk river, the broad entrance of the Susquehan- 
nah is seen at the left: near which is discerned the 
village of Havre de Grace, which was burnt during the 
last war. Eigiit miles from Turkey Point, up the Elk 
river, the entrance of Back Creek, connected with the 
Chesapeake and Delaware canal, is seen at the right.* 

+ Until the construction of 'the French Town and 
New-Castlc rail r,'ad, the roulo^of travellers was gene- 

e2 



60 FROM BALTIMORE TO PIIILADEI.FHIA. 

At French Town, passengers leave the steam boat, 
(their baggage having been previously placed in bag- 
gage waggons,) and take the carnages of the Rail 
Road, which extends to New Castle, on the Delaware, 
a distance of 16^ miles, being but S53 yards more than 
would be a perfectly straight line drawn from one end 
to the other. It is composed of six curves and six 
straight lines, three of the curves deflecting to the north 
and three to the south. The whole amount of excava- 
tion is about 500,000 cubic yards of earth, exclusive of 



rally through this canal, in packets fitted up for the pur- 
pose. It is now, however, used principally for sloops 
plyinjr between the Chesapeake Bay and Pclav\are riv- 
er. Back Creek, a narrow and tortious stream, is pur- 
sued for 3 miles to a village called Chesapeake citv, 
where the canal commences, which is 14 miles long, 36 
feet wide at the bottom, and 60 feet at the surface. It 
is calculated for the passage of vessels drawing S feet 
of water, though the banks are constructed so as to re- 
tain 10 feet, if necessary. There arc two tide nnd two 
lift locks, and the summit level is a little more than 9 
miles long, and 10 feet above ordinary flood tide. Be- 
tween 2^ and 3 miles from Chesapeake village com- 
mences what is called the Deep Cut. Its Icnoth is 
nearly four mibs, and tlje embankments vary from 8 
to 70 feet in hoigiit. To furnish soniothing of an idea 
of the magnitude of the vrork, it is staled tbat tlic eaith 
excavated to form this part of tbe canal and the neces- 
jiary drains was more than SO n.nllions of cubic feet. 
At the greatest elevation a moi?t imposing work, calbd 
Summit Bridge, has been extended across. It is built 
on a hard firm bank, where the original surface attains 
an elevation of 65 feet, above which the al)utments are 
built 20 feet in thickness. The sides of the canal be- 
low the abutments are protected by a slope wall laid 



FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 61 

the side drains, which are on a magnificent scale. The 
amount of embankment is abo\it 420,000 cubic yards. 
At two points the excavation has been attended with 
great difficulty and expense, especially at the western 
termination of the road, where the cutting was 37 feet 
deep, through a solid mass of tough red and black clay 
for a considerable distance. 

There are six principal embankments, varying- in 
length from twelve hundred to three thousand feet each, 
and in height from fi^fteen to twenty-five feet each. 



from the bottom of the canal to the top of the bank, 
from six to two feet in thickness. The floor of the 
bridge is 90 feet above the bottom of the canal ; ex- 
treme length 2S0 feet. Independently of the interest 
excited by the bridge, the view of the canal from its 
commanding height is grand beyond description. A 
flight of steps have been erected, to facilitate the as- 
cent from the tow-path up the bank. 

After leaving the Deep Cut, the canal enters v.hnt 
is called The Old Mill Pond, three miles beyond the 
Cranberry Marshes. Three miles farther are the St. 
George's Marshes, the forming of the banks of the ca- 
nal through which was an immense labor. The spe- 
cific gravity of the earth used for the purpose exceed- 
ing that of the surrounding marshes, it sunk in many 
places as fast as it could be carted on, and in som.e in- 
stances it is calculated to have gone to a depth of from 
GO to 80 feet, and in one place 100 feet below the orig- 
inal surface, raising many acres of the adjacent marshes 
several feet above their original level. 

At the eastern termination of the canal, the City of 
Delaware has sprung up like many of the flourishing 
villages on the banks of the Erie canal in New- York, 
and will probably become a place of considerable im- 
portance. 



B2 FROM BALTIMORE TO PHILADELPHIA. 

The road crosses four bridges or viaducts, varying in 
dimensions from 12 feet byjlO, to 5 feet by 6 ; and 29 
culverts, varying from 12 by 4, to 2 feet by 2. The 
M^hole of the bridges and culverts are of substantial 
stone masonry. The width of the road bed is 26 feet 
exclusive of the side drains. It is fenced on both sides 
its whole length, the fences enclosing an area of never 
less than 70 feet in width, and at the western deep cut 
of 1 70 feet. The superstructure of the road is formed 
partly of stone blocks containing two cubic feet of stone, 
each weighing about 360 lbs. and partly of substantial 
white oak sleepers, upon which are laid and secured 
in the most approved manner, the string pieces or rails, 
of Georgia pitch pine, 6 inches square ; on the top of 
these are fastened the iron bars 2| inches wide by |ths 
of an inch thick, with iron plates beneath them at the 
points of their junction. The inner edge of the string 
piece is chamfered off so as to bring the bearing of the 
iron bar nearly in the centre. 

The blocks are laid three feet apart Jrom centre to 
centre, and bedded in holes two feet deep and two feet 
square, upon pure sand or gravel well rammed ; and 
where sleepers are used, on the embankments, &c. they 
are laid at the same distance apart, on sills of hemlock, 
four inches tliick by eight inches wide, placed longitudi- 
nally, which are, in like manner, bedded in trenches fill- 
ed with sand or gravel well rammed — these substances 
being supposed lo furnish the surest safeguard against 
injury from frost. 

The total cost of the New Castle and French Town 
rail road, including the land for its location, wharves, 
land at depots and both ends, locomotive engines, 



-- . .« 



PHILADELPHIA. 63 

passenger and burthen cars sufficient to put it in com- 
plete operation, with a single track and the requisite 
number of turn outs, has been estimated at about four 
hundred thousand dollars. 

The road was 'commenced in July, 1S30, and was 
completed in 1832. 

The ancient town of New Castle, at which the road 
terminates, still retains one of its original buildings, the 
date of which, in figures of iron oh the gable end, shows 
that it was erected in 1687. The town was settled by the 
Swedes, many of whose descendants still continue to 
reside there, and retain the plain frank manner and 
thinking habits of their ancestors. By means of a loco- 
motive engine, passengers are enabled to cross the pe- 
ninsula in one hour with ease, thereby shortening the, 
time between Baltimore and Philadelphia 2J hours. 

At New-Castle, a steam boat is again taken, which 
proceeds up the Delaware 35 miles, passing the city of 
Wilmington, which is seen at a distance on the left, 
and the villages of Chester, Lazaretto, Fort Mifflin on 
an island in the Delaware, and Gloucester, to 

PHILADELPHIA, 

The flourishing capital of Pennsylvania. It stands 
on the west bank of the river Delaware, five miles from 
its confluence with the Schuylkill, which forms its wes- 
tern boundary. This, city was founded in 1682, and 
incorporated in 1701. The charter being abrogated at 
the revolution, it remained under a provincial govern- 
ment till 1789, when it was incorporated a second time. 
Its population in 1830, including its suburbs, was 167,- 
811. The city is built on streets from 50 to 100 feet in 



64 PHILADPLPniA. 

width, running parallel and at right angles to each oth- 
er. They are handsomely paved, and are kept femark- 
ahly clean. The-Rouses exhibit aft appearance of neat- 
ness, uniformity and commodiousness, and many of 
them are .ornamented with white marble. Against the 
city, which is 90 miles distant from the sea, the Dela- 
ware is about a mile wide, and is navigable for ships of 
a large size. The most conspicuous buildings are the 
churches, the state house, the United States and Penn- 
sylvania Banks, the Girard Banlc, and the Institution 
for the Deaf and Diamb. The Bank of the U. S. was 
established in the year 1816, with a capital of s'^35,000,- 
000. The banking house is a splendid structvire, built 
on the plan of the Parthenon at Atjiens, and is situated 
in ii north and south direction, fronting on Chestnut 
and Library streets, having 8 fluted columns, 4 feet 6 
inches in diameter, embracing the whole front. From 
each of the fronts are. porticoes, projecting 10 feet 6 in- 
ches. The whole length of the edifice, including the 
portico, is 161 feet, and its breadth in front 87 feet. 
The rhain entrance is from Chestnut street, by a flight 
of six marble steps, extending along the whole front of 
the portico. The banking room occupies the centre of 
the building, being 48 feet wide and Sl'fect long. The 
whole body of the building is arched in a bomb proof 
manner, from the cellar to the roof, which is covered 
with copper. 

There are in this city 90 houses for pul>lic worship ; 
13 banks, 7 insurance companies, a custom house, an 
exchange, and a chamber of commerce. 

The New Bank of Pennsylvania is an extensive 
and elegant edifice of marble, of the Ionic order, and . 



\ 



PHILADELPHIA, 65 

constructed after the model of the ancient tenjpie of the 
muses, on the Ilyssus. 

The Pennsylvania Hospital is one of the oldest, 
and most respectable institutions of that description in 
the Union. 

The State House, in which the continental congress 
sat, and froni whence the Declaration of Independence 
issued, is still standing. It is located in Chestnut street, 
is built of brick, comprising a centre and two wings, and 
has undergone no material alteration since its first erec- 
tion. It has a venerable appearance, and is surmount- 
ed by a cupola, having a clock, the dial of which is 
glass, and is illuminated at night until 10 or 11 o'clock, 
shewing the hour and minutes until that time. The 
front is a considerable distance back from the street, 
the walk being paved to the curb-stone with brick, and 
two elegant rows of trees extending its whole length. 
East of the main entrance, in the front room, the ses- 
sions of congress were held, and the question of inde- 
pendence decided. The declaration was first publicly 
read from the balcony fronting the spacious park in the 
rear. 

The Arcade in Philadelphia, like that at N. York, 
has proved a bad speculation — though the former is 
twice the size of the latter, and appears to be more de- 
serted. It contains Pealc's Museum, one of the best in 
the United States, comprising the most complete skel- 
eton of the Mammoth perhaps in the world. It is per- 
fect, with the exception of a few bones, which have been 
supplied by imitating the others. This skeleton was 
found in Ulster county, New- York. 



6G PHILADELPHIA. 

The Academy of Arts, in Chestnut street, contains 
a large number of paintings, several of which are the 
property of Joseph Bonaparte. Among these is one 
executed by David, representing Napoleon crossing the 
Alps. Another is a full length portrait of Joseph him- 
self, as king of Spain. 

The U. S. Mint, established here, is at present in an 
ordinary building ; though a new and handsome edifice 
is constructing for the purpose. 

The City Library, was first established through the 
enterprise and influence of Franklin in 1731. It is lo- 
cated in a neat and ornamental edifice on the east side 
of Fifth street, opposite the State House Square, and 
contains about 24,000 volumes, besides the Loganian 
library of ancient classics of about 1 1,000 volumes, un- 
der the same roof. 

The Atheneum, on the second floor of the Philosoph- 
ical Hall in Fifth street, contains 5300 volumes and a 
variety of newspapers from various parts of the union. 
There are also deposited here a series of rare and valu- 
able pamphlets, forming 140 volumes, wliich belonged 
to Doct. Franklin ; many of which are enriched with 
his MS. notes. Strangers are admitted to this institu- 
tion, on being introduced by a subscriber, and a regis- 
ter of their names is kept. 

The American Philosophicul Society was founded in 
1743, principally by the exertions of Doct. Franklin. 
The members have a large and commodious building 
on a part of the State House Square, in which they have ' 
deposited about 6000 volumes of valuable books, and a 
collection of objects of natural history, consisting prin- 
cipally of minerals and fossil remains. The Presidents 






PHILADELPHIA. 67 

of the society have been Benjamin Franklin, David 
Rittenhouse, Thomas Jefferson, Caspar Wistor, Rob- 
ert Patterson and William Tilghman. 

The University of Pennsylvania is situated in 
Ninth street, between Market and Chestnut streets. It 
was founded in 1750, and is in a highly prosperous and 
flourisliing condition. 

Of the public works of Philadelphia, there are none of 
which its inhabitants are more justly proud than those 
at Fair Mount, by which the city is supplied with wa- 
ter of the best quality, in the greatest plenty. Fair 
Mount is in the rear of the city upon the bank of the 
Schuylkill, the neighborhood of which affords a variety 
of romantic scenery. The situation is such as pecul- 
iarly adapts it for the purpose to which it has been de- 
voted. The reservoirs are situated on the top of a hill 
rising from the river, a part of it perpendicular rock, up- 
wards of one hundred feet. The ascent from the river 
to the reservoirs is by a flight of substantial wooden 
steps, with resting places, over one of which is a tem- 
ple. The reservoirs, which are surrounded with a pale 
fence, outside of which is a gravelled walk, contain up- 
wards of twelve millions of gallons, supplying the city 
through between 15 and 20 miles of pipes. The water 
was formerly forced to the reservoirs by steam, which 
is no longer used ; it is now raised by machinery pro- 
pelled by the Schuylkill. The machinery is simple, 
and is turned by large water wheels, of which there are 
five, one of them of iron of 24 tons, weight. Their speed 
may be graduated to any required number of revolu- 
tions per minute ; and if all are in motion, they will 
raise seven millions of gallons in 24 hours. To turn 

F 



68 PHILADELPHIA. 

them, the Schuylkill has been dammed its whole breadth, 
by which the water is thrown back into a reservoir 
lock, whence it is admitted as required to operate upor^ 
the wheels, and is discharged into the river below the 
dam. The whole expense of these works, including 
estimated cost of w^orks abandoned, was $1,783,000. 
That required to keep them in operation is compara- 
tively trifling. The quantity of water thus disseminat- 
ed through the city, is not only sufficient for eveiy fam- 
ily, b,ut is used to wash the streets. It is of immense 
semce in case of fire, as it is only necessary to screw 
the hose to hydrants, which are placed at couA^enient 
distances, to secure a constant stream of sufiicient force 
to reach an ordinary height. 

The Navy Yard (on the Delaware) receives the vis- 
its of strangers more particularly in consequence of the 
immense vessel, the Pennsylvania, there erecting. Her 
dimensions are 1 98 feet keel, 57 feet beam, and 45 feet 
in depth from the upper deck to the keel. She has four 
decks, on which are to be mounted from 140 to 180 
guns, manned by 1200 men. 

The New Penitentiary, located on elevated ground 
near the city, is designed to carry the principle of soli- 
tary confinement completely into effect. Ten acres of 
land are occupied for the purpose, forming a square of 
650 feet each way, and enclosed by massy walls of gra- 
nite, 35 feet high, with towers and battlements. The 
prison is in the centre of the square, and is admirably 
calculated for the purposes for which it was designed. 
The expense incurred in its erection was upwards of 
$300,000. 



PHILADELPIIU. 69 

In amount of shipping, Pliiladelphia occupies the 
fourth rank in the U. S. ; and three lines of regular and 
commodious packets now run between the city and 
Liverpool. 

Its principal hotels are, the U. S. Hotel, opposite the 
U. S. Bank, in Chestnut street ; the Mansion House, 
122 South Third street; City Hotel, 41 N. Third street; 
National Hotel, 116 Chestnut street ; Washington Ho- 
tel, Nos. 6 and 8 Noi'th Fourth street ; and Congress 
Hall, in Third street, above Chestnut The principal 
private boarding houses are the following : Mrs. Era- 
ser, 324 Spruce street ; Mrs. Sword, 207 Chestnut st. ; 
Mrs. Allen, 42 South Sixth st. ; Miss Boyd; 287 Chest- 
nut St. ; Mrs. Allibone, 139 Walnut st. ; Mrs. Austie, 
21 South Third St. ; Mrs. Linn, 98 South Third st.; 
Mrs. Eaton, South East corner of Fifth and Library 
streets ; Mrs. Wilson, G hestnut street. 

The banks of the Schuylkill, near Philadelphia, con- 
tain muuerous elegant country seats, and several pub- 
lic Ijuildings. Among the private residences, none are 
perhaps more jiTstly admired than that of Henry Pratt, 
Esq. on Lemon Hill. The mansion house is situated 
on the eastern bank of the river, and directly above the 
Fair Mount Water Works, about a mile from the city. 
Connected with the mansion are gardens of the most 
extensive kind, laidout in a style of much elegance and 
taste. To these gardens, respectable citizens and stran- 
gers have free access ; and a ride to them is among the 
various pleasant excursions in the vicinity of the city. 

The Shot Tower of Mr. Beck is also an object of 
much curiosity to strangers visiting Philadelphia. It 
stands on the east bank of the Schuylkill, in the rear of 



70 INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 

the city, and is a lofty edifice, from the top of which a 
very extensive view can be had of the surrounding 
country. 

The Penn Monument, commnmorative of the spot 
where William Penn, the founder of the colony of 
Pennsylvania, made a treaty with the aborigines, is 
near the intersection of Beach and Hanover streets. 

Steam boats leave Philadelphia every morning at 6 
o'clock, Sundays excepted, for Baltimore and New- 
York. 

The Philadelphia and Liverpool Packets, which 
are handsomely fitted up, sail from Philadelphia on the 
20th and from Liverpool on the 8th of each month. 

In the NEW LINE BY WAT OF Savannah, the packets 
sail from Pliiladelpliia the 20th of each month. 

INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS. 

The first turnpike in America was made in Pennsyl- 
vania ; and the state at this time contains near 3000 
miles of turnpike roads, at a cost of about ,$8,000,000. 
Among the bridges built across its principal rivers, for- 
ty-five are estimated to have cost $3,000,000 ; and 
more than ,$15,000,000 have been expended within the 
state on canals and rail roads. 

The Union Canal was commenced about 43 years 
since by a private company ; but having to encounter 
the expense of an extensive tunnel at the summit, of 
236 yards in length, and an insufficiency of water for 
the western section, which is drawn up twenty feet by 
a steam engine, it was partially abandoned ; but since 
the completion and successful operation of the Erie and 
Champlain canals, and a stimulus having been produC' 



UNION CANAL. 71 

cd in Pennsylvania, this canal was re-commenced and 
completed, and is in successful operation. It commen- 
ces near Reading on the Schuylkill river, 51 miles north- 
west of Philadelphia, and extends thence in a westerly 
direction to Lebanon, and thence along the Swatara 
creek to Middlctown, on the Susquehannah river, nine 
miles below Harrisburgh, the seat of government of tht 
state. 

The length of the canal is 79 miles ; the water for 
the principal supply of the eastern section, a distance of 
40 miles, is drawn from the Tulpehocken river, a branch 
of the Schuylkill. The lockage on this section is 276^ 
feet in 53 locks : the locks are of various lifts, and cost 
$650 per foot. The western section extends 39 miles, 
having a lockage of 226^ feet in 37 locks, besides an 
expensive tunnel. 

By a law of the Pennsylvania legislature, chartering 
the Union Canal Company, passed in 1826, they were 
prohibited from erecting any works which should pre- 
vent the descent of rafts in the channel of the Swa- 
tara. Tins provision having been repealed in 1829, the 
company subsequently resolved on extending the canal 
to a point at or near the village of Pine Grove, about 
four miles from what is called " The Coal Region." 
From the basin at the northern extremity of the canal, 
it is contemplated to extend rail roads along the vallies 
of the Swatara and its various branches, which inter- 
sect the country in every direction, and afford ground 
admirably adapted for their construction. Another 
opening at Fishing creek, near the termimftion of the 
great reservoir, is said to possess equal advantages, 
f2 



72 PENNSYLVANIA CAMAL. 

both as respects the position of its coal and the faciHty 
of access. 

These mines, it is supposed by competent judges, 
can be wrought as easily and economically as those of 
Mount Carbon ; and it is confidently predicted, that at 
no very distant day, the Swatara coal will form an im- 
portant item of the consumption and exportation of the 
city of Philadelphia. 

By means of the Union Canal and the Schuylkill 
slack water navigation, there is a communication from 
Philadelphia to the Susquehannah river ; and this com- 
munication is greatly extended by means of the 

Pennsylvania Canal, which commences at Colum- 
bia, 80 miles north-west of Philadelphia, and unites 
with the Union canal at Middletown, 18 miles farther. 
From thence it proceeds in a westerly direction to the 
Juniata — thence up that river to the foot of the Allegany 
mountains, which are crossed by a rail road, 40 miles 
long ; at the end of which the canal re-commences, 
uniting with the Allegany and Ohio rivers at Pitts- 
burgh. The whole length of this canal, including the 
rail road across the mountains, is 314 miles, and the 
lockage rising of 1 100 feet. After reaching the Juniata^ 
a singularly romantic and beautiful stream, the canal 
winds along a gentle and practicable acclivity, follow- 
ing the bed of the river for nearly a hundred miles. 
Two mighty ranges of mountains rise from the limpid 
Juniata, like two green leaves of an immense opening 
volume. These mountains, apparently arranged to the 
course of t^is stream, seem to lie almost at right angles 
to the great parallel ridges. The Juniata finds a pas- 
sage by a very equable and gentle declivity through all 



i 



PENNSYLVANIA CANAL. 73 

the mountains except the last ridge that parts its wa- 
ters from those of the Ohio. More beautiful forms of 
mountains than these which skirt this river,, can no 
where be seen. Sometimes, for many miles together, 
they rise, smooth, verdant and unbroken, by equable 
slopes, from the very verge of the stream to the height 
of twelve hundred feet ; and here, apparently, when 
the fountains of the great deep were broken up, the 
rocky summits of the mountains were dismembered at 
the same time. For miles together, and in many pla- 
ces the whole sides of the grand slope, from summit to 
base, are strown with large fragments of smooth build- 
ing stone ; and it is inconceivable how smoothly and 
completely they line the sides of these mighty liills. 
Layers of these rocks cover thousands of acres, for a 
depth apparently of forty or fifty feet : and for a con- 
siderable distance the road is formed by the removal of 
these layers along the sides of the mountains, the car- 
riage winding its way many hundred feet above the ca- 
nal, which is perpendicularly below. 

In other places, more recent slides of the earth and 
rocks from the summits of the mountains have cut away 
a visible and uniform path, sweeping trees and- every 
obstacle before it, until the spoils are accumulated at 
the foot of the mountains. Indeed, every foot of this 
route of a hundred miles is enriched with scenery of 
unexampled sublimity ; and we can imagine no higher 
treat for the tourist than a passage along its banks, 
connected with the crossing of the Alleganies, and a 
trip to Pittsburgh. 

In addition to the foregoing, the state have nearly 
completed a canal from Middletown, at the junction 411 



74 RAIL ROADS. 

the Union Canal with the Susquehannah, to Muncy 
Hills upon the West Branch of that river, 90 miles in 
length ; another from Northumberland, at the junction 
of the East and West Branches of the Susquehannah, 
up the former branch, to Nanticoke falls, 55 miles ; 
another from Bristol, up the Delaware river, to Easton, 
near the junction of the Lehigh and Delaware, 60 
miles ; and another from French creek (a navigable 
stream which rises within 10 miles of Lake Erie, and 
joins the Allegany 80 miles from Pittsburgh) to Muddy 
run, in the north west part of the state, 19 J miles. The 
whole extent of these canals is 128^ miles, and their es- 
timated cost was $12,000,000. 

Besides the foregoing, the following canals belong to 
private companies : 

The SchuylJcill Canal, from Philadelphia up the 
Schuylkill river, intersecting the Union canal at Read- 
ing, to the Schuylkill coal mines at Mount Carbon — 
loclcage 588 feet — length 108 miles, including 46 miles 
of slack water on the river — cost $2,336,000, of wliich 
^500,000 were subscribed by the state. 

The Lehigh Canal, from Easton, on the Delaware, 
up the Leliigh river to the coal mines at Mauch Chunk, 
and from thence to Stoddartsville. Length of the ca- 
nal 46 miles, lockage 35 feet, slack water 38 miles, 
whole distance 84 miles. 

The Philadelphia and Norristown Rail Road, 
commences at the corner of Ninth and Spring-Garden 
streets in Philadelpliia, and passes through German- 
town, 6 miles distant, and from thence to Norristown, 
4 miles farther. The road is formed cliiefly of stone 
ocks, with heavy iron rails fastened thereon, similar to 



THE COAL MINES. 75 

the construction of the Manchester and Liverpool road. 
Until reaching Cohocksink creek, which is crossed by 
a large viaduct, the graduated surface is 70 feet, on each 
side of which streets are opened, and several squares 
of buildings have been erected. The whole line of the 
road is interesting, and tJie patronage which it has thus 
far received has been handsome. 

The Columbia and Philadelphia Rail Road 
commences at the junction of Broad and Cedar streets 
in Pliiladelphia, crosses the Schuylkill at Peters' Isl- 
and, passes Paoli, Downingstown, Coatsville, Lancas- 
ter and Mount Pleasant to Columbia, on the Susque- 
hannah, where it joins the Pennsylania canal. Length 
80 miles. The road consists of a double track, and is 
composed of the most solid and durable materials ; one 
line being a continuous stone rail with an iron plate, and 
the otlier consisting of heavy stone blocks and iron 
rails. Locomotive power, as well as horse, is used, in 
conveying passengers and freight. 

Both of these roads are the property, and are made at 
the expense of the state. 

THE COAL MINES. 
Since the discovery and opening of the extensive 
coal mines in Pennsylvania, and the great internal im- 
provements which have been made in the state, pro- 
viding an easy communication to them, it has become 
almost a matter of course to embrace them within the 
tour of the miildlo and northern states. The Lehigh 
and Schuylkill, the principal mines already explored, 
are located from 100 to ]20 miles in a northeasterly 
direction from Philadelphia, between a chain of moun- 



76 THE COAL MINES. 

tains denominated the Blue Ridge and the Susque- 
hannah river. The anthracite district is principally 
occupied by mountains running parallel to the Blue 
Ridge, often broad with table land summits, and rising 
generally about 1500 feet above the ocean. These 
summits, by repeated fires, have been principally di- 
vested of timber, and are generally too stony for til- 
lage. The beds and veins of anthracite range from 
north-east to south-west, and may often be traced for 
a considerable distance by the compass ; but they 
have been found in the greatest quantity in sections 
most accessible by water. Extensive beds and veins 
range from the Lehigh to the Susquehannah, crossing 
the head waters of the Schuylkill and Swatara about 
ten miles north-west of the Blue Ridge. They are al- 
so found contiguous to the Susquehannah and Lacka- 
wanna. But in no part of the district does tiie anthra- 
cite exist in such apparently inexhaustible beds as in 
the vicinity of Mauch Chunk, a village situated on the 
Leliigh, 35 miles from Easton, and 108 by water from 
Pliiladelpliia. The coal is there excavated on the flat 
summit of a mountain that rises near 1500 feet above 
the ocean. It is disclosed for seveial miles on the 
summit wherever excavations have been made, and is 
indicated in many places by coal slate in a pulverulent 
state, on the surface. The movuitain rises with steep 
acclivity, particularly on the north-west side, and when 
penetrated at various altitudes, discloses coal at about 
the same distance from the surface. In the deep exca- 
vations made on the summit, no termination of the 
coal has been found, and it is not improbable that an^ 



THE COAL MINES. 77 

thracite lorms the nucleus of the mountain for a con- 
siderable distance. 

The coal is rendered accessible by removing from 
the flat summit gravelly loam, which is from a few 
inches to four feet in depfh, and disintegrated slate 
with impure coal, from two to four feet. The coal 

• rests in a horizontal position, narrow parallel seams of 
argillaceous schist intervening. Strong chalybeate 

'i springs, holding in solution sulphate of iron, issue from 

j the mountain's side. The coal excavation on the sur- 

: face is extensive, and from 30 to 40 feet deep, forming 
a hollow square, bounded by lofty mural precipices of 

; coal. Waggons are admitted by avenues that serve to 

; discharge water from the mine. 

Next to Mauch Chunk, Mount Carbon, or Pottsville, 
situated at the head of the Schuylkill canal, has been 

s the principal source of the supply of anthracite. Many 
large veins are worked within three miles of the land- 
ing ; and some have been opened seven miles to the 
north-east in the direction of the Lehigh beds. The 
chief veins wrought are, one situated on an eminence 
adjacent to the village ; Bailey's mine, about 2 miles 
from Pottsville and near the turnpike to Lunbury ; and 

: on the territory of the New- York Schuylkill company 

" about 3 miles from the village. On almost every em- 
inence adjacent to Pottsville, indications of coal are dis- 
closed. The veins generally run in a north-east direc- 
tion, with an inclination of about 45 degrees, and are 
from 3 to 9 feet in thickness. Commencing at or near 
the surface, they penetrate to an unknown depth, and 

! can often be traced on hills for a considerable distance, 
by sounding in a north-east or south-west direction. 



78 THE COAL MINES. 

Some veins have been wrought to a depth of 200 feet 
without a necessity of draining, the inchned slate roof 
shielding them from water. Where the ground admits, 
it is considered the best mode of working veins to com- 
mence at the back of a coal mine eminence, or as low 
as possible, and work up, filling the excavation with 
slate and fine coal, leaving a horizontal passage for the 
coal barrows. A section of a wide vein near Pottsville 
has been excavated by this mode several hundred feet 
into the hill. 

On the extensive tract occupied by the New- York 
company, five miles from Pottsville, there are also in- 
exhaustible coal beds, in the excavating of wliich from 
300 to 400 hands are employed. 

South-west of Pottsville the coal becomes more easi- 
ly ignited, and that at Peter's mountain, a few miles 
east of Dansville, is said to contain bitumen. It is 
probable that the coal in that vicinity embraces, like 
the Wilkesbarre, mucli more inflammable gas than the 
Lehigh, which may have led to the supposition ihat it 
was bituminous. 

Anthracite is found on several of the streams that 
discharge into the Susquehannah, on its eastern side. 
A large bed exists a few miles easterly from Berwick, 
and numerous veins occur from an elevated part of the 
Wilkesbarre mountain, to the Kingston and Shawnese 
mountains, that form the western border of the basin of 
Wyoming. Veins of coal in the vale of the latter,* 



* The valley of Wyoming is rendered memorable in 
history from the bloody massacre of the white settlers 
by the Indians commanded by Col. Butler during the 



THE COAL MINES. 79 

about 125 miles north-west of Philadelphia, are not only 
very numerous, occurring on almost every farm, but 
many are of uncommon thickness.* 

Extensive beds of coal are also found adjoining the 
head waters of the Lycoming creek ; and a Lycoming 
Coal Company has been chartered, with a capital of 
$250,000. This coal hes in horizontal veins elevated 
considerably above the ordinary level of the adjacent 
country, and is, of course, mined with much less diffi- 
culty than in many other districts. The state canal 
up the west branch of the Susquehannah river inter- 
sects with the Lycoming creek, to the mouth of which, 
the company are authorized to construct a rail road, 20 
miles in length. When completed, they will have an 
uninterrupted rail road and canal communication to 
Philadelpliia, distant, by land and water, 260 miles. 
This mine is advantageously located for supplying the 
city of New- York and the south-western part of the 
; state, and will doubtless prove of great value to the 
company. 



revolution, and immortalized in song by the beautiful 
poem of Campbell. The village of Wilkesbarre, on the 
Susquehannah river, has been built near the place of 
this massacre. Solomon's creek, a tributary stream, 
and which unites with the Susquehannah in this val- 
ley, contains two very romantic falls, a short distance 
from Wilkesbarre. 

* For the preceding sketch of the coal region, the 
editor is mostly indebted to the Journal of Science and 
Arts, an invaluable work, published at New-Haven, 
Conn, by professor Silliman. 



80 NORRISTOWN— READING. 

ROUTE TO THE SCHUYLKILL COAL 
MINES. 
From Philadelphia to Port Carbon, is 108 miles, and 
the intermediate distances are as follows : 



Miles. 
By rail road. 
From Pliiladelphia to 

Germantown, 6 

Norristown, 9 

By stage or canal. 

Phenixville, 13 

Pottstown 14 

Unionsville, 4 



Miles. 

Birdsboro', 6 

Reading, 10 

Hamburgh, 23 

Port Clinton, 4 

Schuylkill Haven,. . , 12 

Pottsville, 5 

Port Carbon,. ....... 2 



The Norristown rail road is taken at Philadelphia, 
which passes through Germantown, distant 6 miles, 
distinguished as the spot of a sanguinary contest dur- 
ing the revolution ; and from thence to 



Norristown, 9 miles farther. This village is hand- 
somely located on the north bank of the Schuylkill. It 
is the capital of Montgomery county, and contains a 
number of elegant dwellings. It was formerly the res- 
idence of the celebrated Doct. Rittenhouse. From this 
place, a stage or canal packet is taken, which passes 
through Phenixville to 



i 



'to' 



Pottstown, or Pottsgrove, 18 miles above Nor- 
ristown, which is a pleasant village on the east bank of 
the river. 

Reading, 20 miles farther, located on the east side of 
the river, is the capital of Berk's county. It is a flour- 
ishing town, regularly laid out, and is inhabited princi- 



i MOUNT CARBON.' 81 

pally by Germans. Its population is about 6000. Near 
this place the Union Canal, noticed at page 70, com- 
mences. Six miles from Reading is a cutting of 60 feet 
in depth through a solid rock ; the contract for which 
having been taken by a Mr. Duncan, the spot is called 
Duncmi's Job. From this place to the Blue Ridge, the 
Schuylkill winds through a valley in which there is 
considerable limestone, the fissures and cavities of 
which in some places rendered the formation of a re- 
tentive canal difficult. 

Hamburgh is situated on the east side of the river, 
23 miles above Reading near the Blue Ridge. It is a 
pleasant and tliriving village, near which is what is 
called the Mountain Dam, 27 feet high. The passage 
of the Schuylkill and canal through the Blue Ridge is 
interesting and romantic. The mountains bordering 
the ravine are lofty and precipitous, presenting ledges 
of old and red sand stone, with coarse and fine silicious 
gray wacke. The turnpike winds on the mountain 
side at a great elevation above the stream, giving to 
the traveller a sublime and varied scenery. The navi- 
gation through the pass, or what is called the Schuylkill 
Water Gap, is effected by stone dams of magnitude and 
permanent construction ; and groups of locks, water 
falls and broad sheets of water are frequent. 

After passing the Water Gap, \hi next object of at- 
traction is the Tunnel, which has been bored through a 
hill 375 yards for the canal. The village of Orwisburgh 
is 3 miles farther ; from which to 

Mount Carbon or Pottsville is 8 miles. Tliis 
place, centrally located in the coal region, has attained 



82 RAIL ROADS. 

an astonishing growth within a very short period. In 
3824 it was a wilderness ; in 1829 it contained 223 ten- 
ements, and a population of 2700 inhabitants j and in 
1832, 492 dwellings, and about 5000 inhabitants ; 4 
churches, a bank, 3 printing offices, and a large num- 
ber of stores, shops and public houses, some of which 
are very elegant. The town is laid out in regular 
squares, and the main street, about a mile in length, 
presents on each side a compact row of large and sub- 
stantial buildings. The principal streets are M'Ad- 
amized in the centre, with brick side walks, giving a 
neat and durable appearance to the promenades. 

The coal in this i-egion has been described in the pre- 
ceding pages of this work. Besides the numerous fa- 
cilities afforded for its transportation by water, several 
rail roads have been constructed in the immediate vi- 
cinity of Mount Carbon. Among these are the Schuyl- 
kill Valley Rail Road, 10 miles ; the Mount Carbon, 8 
miles ; the Mill Creek, 3 miles ; the West Branch, 17 
miles ; and the Little Schuylkill, 22 miles — making an 
aggregate of 61 miles. 

The Mount Carbon rail road, commences at the land- 
ing on the Schuylkill, and passes through Pottsville up 
to the heads of the Norwegian creek. From its com- 
mencement to its termination, there is not a quarter of 
a mile in which it does not cross one or more veins of 
coal, at right angles. The whole valley, indeed, wa- 
tered by this creek, is redolent with coal of the finest 
quality. 

The West Branch rail road commences at Schuylkill 
Haven, and extends, up to the confluence of the West 
and west West Brandies of the Schuylkill, from whence 



VILLAGES NEAR THE COAL MINES. S3 

branches follow the direction of the two streams to the 
foot of the Broad Mountain, making a distance, alto- 
gether, of about 17 miles. 

The Uttle Schuylkill rail road extends to the river of 
that name, a branch of the piincipal stream. It rises 
20 miles north-east of the Gap in the Blue Ridge, the 
place of its outlet. 

Of the numerous villages which have sprang up in 
the vicinity of these mines is Port Carbon, a short dis- 
tance from Pottsville, containing from ICO to 150 build- 
ings. 

Pursuing up the route of the Valley Rail Road, the 
traveller next comes to Tuscarora, Middleport, Fatter- 
son, New Philadelphia, and Tuscarora again. Tlxe 
three former places are at the intersection of the large 
lateral road which leads up the creek tributary to the 

I river — the latter is at the head of the main rail road, 
built by Messrs. Lyons and Lawton. 

) Up the Mill Creek Rail Road, about two miles, is St. 

; Clairsville, and at its head New Castle, where the road 
from Port Carbon intersects the Centre Turnpike. 
Both these places have extensive water powers, and 
are admirably located for mills, &c. 

At the junction of the West Branch of the Schuyl- 
kill with the main river, Schuylkill Haven is a beauti- 
fully situated place, which will be mart of all the im- 
mense coal region of the West and west West Branch- 
es ; this location is destined to be the focus of an ex- 
tensive business. Minersville is another site on the 

! same branch, nearly west of Pottsville. Tliis, from its 

'I sitxiation among extensive collieries, M'ill soon become 

' a populous place, as the residence of those engaged in 

"•02 



84 MAUCH CHUNK. 

the coal business. Further up, on the Broad Moun- 
tain, is Carbondale, which also promises to be a place 
of some importance, 

Rmite to the Lehigh Coal Mines. 

From Orwisburgh, a stage can be taken to Mauch 
Chunk, at the Lehigh coal mines, a distance of 15 
miles in a north-eastwardly direction. This route is 
recommended to travellers from the south, designing a 
general visit to the coal region. From the north, the 
most direct route is, to pursue the line of the Morris 
canal from Newark, N. Jersey, to Easton, or the route 
from New- York to Schooley's Mountain, and from 
thence to Easton, proceeding up the Lehigh to Mauch 
Chunk. A very common route from Philadelphia to 
the Lehigh is by steam-boat to Bristol, 20 miles up the 
Delaware, and from thence by stage through Newton 
and New-Hope to Easton, 50 miles farther. This route 
is mostly on the bank of the Delaware, and passes 
through a pleasant section of the country, affording a 
rich and diversified scenery. 

MAUCH CHUNK. 

The village of Mauch Chunk is situated on the west- 
ern bank of the Lehigh, in a deep romantic ravine, be- 
tween rocky mountains that rise in some parts precipi- 
tously to 800 or 1000 feet above the stream. Space was 
procured for dwellings by breaking down the adjacent 
rocks, and by tilling a part of the ravine of the Mauch j 
Chunk creek. A portion of tliis stream has been trans- 
ferred to an elevated rail-way, and is used to propel a 
grist mill. The village contains about 200 dweUingSj 



MAUCH CHUNK RAIL nOAD- 85 

belonging principally to the Lehigh Company, who 
have between 800 and 1000 men in their employ, 
Mauch Chunk Beems by nature designed for a place of 
business, but as there is not sufficient room, owing to 
the approach of the mountains to the Lehigh, for a 
town of much size, the business of the place will most 
likely be confined principally to the shipment of coal. 

The Mauch Chunk Rail-Road leads from near the 
coal mines on the mountain down an inclined plane to 
the Lehigh river. It is eight miles long, and has been 
in operation 5 or 6 years. The sleepers on which the 
rails rest, as well as the rails, are of wood ; the latter 
plated with iron. Experiments have been made as to 
the velocity that might be obtained for the cars loaded 
with coal and the horses and mules to draw them back 
to the summit when the coal had been discharged ; and 
it has been found, that though the speed of the cars 
might be increased to thirty or forty miles an hour with 
safety, yet the beasts, as well as the men who guided 
the cars, became in a few days sickly, on account of 
the rapid and confused appearance of objects as they 
were passed on the way. The directors of the com- 
pany have therefore been compelled to limit the veloci- 
ty of the cars to 14 miles an hour in their descent, to 
obviate the disagreeable consequences of the more rap- 
id motion. Pleasure carriages sometimes go up this 
rail-way with strangers ; but the more common prac- 
tice is to go up in the returning cars. The road gen- 
erally passes along a narrow shelf, with precipices on 
its side not unfrequently of from 300 to 600 feet. At 
the end of the rail-road, the cars are let down to the 



86 LEHIGH RIVER. 

river on an mclined plane of 700 feet, equal to a perpen- 
dicular descent of 200 feet. 

A tunnel, 12 feet high, 20 wide and nearly 800 long, 
was cut through the mountain by the company in 1826, 
for the purpose of shortening the passage to a bed of 
coal supposed to lie on the other side. This labor was 
lost, as no coal was foimd in the direction of the tunnel. 
The beds belonging to the company, however, are in- 
exhaustible in other directions. 

The Lehigh Canal was noticed at page 74. The 
Lehigh River is a copious rapid stream, and rises by 
various mountain branches forty miles north-west of 
Mauch Chunk, which unite below Stoddartsville, 25 
miles above Mauch Chunk. The fall of the river be- 
tween these two places is 845 feet. Eleven miles be- 
low Maucli Chunk, it passes through the Kittatinny 
range of mountains, and in the intermediate space falls 
245 feet. From the Lehigh Water Gap, or passage 
through the Kittatinny, to its junction with the Dela- 
ware at Easton, 35 miles, it falls 205 feet ; making the 
entire fall from Stoddartsville 1210 feet. To overcome 
the descent from Mauch Chunk to Easton, 21 dams and 
52 locks have been found necessary. They are located 
at the head of rapids, enabling the navigator to com- 
mand an aitificial freshet, when the stream from its 
dispersion would not otherwise admit of the passage of 
boats. Water from the dam is copiously admitted in- 
to a rail-way that extends to the foot of the rapid. The 
gates are xittachcd by hinges to the bottom of the lock, 
and rise by the force of water admitted fi"om a floom, 
constructed parallel with the lock, and remain suspend- 



( 



THE LANDING LEHIOHTON. 87 

ed, forming a section of the dam. If the gate of tha 
floom is closed, the water between the gates passes off, 
and they fall by their own weight and the pressure of 
the water from the dam. 

The Landing, or Lausanne, above Mauch Chunk, 
from its location at the head of the navicration, and 
at the commencement of the turnpike road leading 
to the Susquehannalr, • will in a short time become a 
place of deposit for merchandize and produce, destined 
to and from the upper country. The Nesquehoning 
creek here empties into the Lehigh, and will tend much 
to bring the town forward and render it a place of busi- 
ness, as from the extensive v/ater power which tliia 
stream affords, manufactories can be estabhshed at 
comparatively u very small expense. Eight miles be- 
low Mauch Chunk is the pleasant village of 

Lehighton. The ground plot of the town is laid out 
upon an elevated piece of table land, and the lots are 
sufficiently large to afford an entensive garden and yard 
to each dwelling. The village commands a prospect 
of the river and canal ; the valley in which the town 
of Weiss Port is located ; the Blue Mountain in tho 
distance, and a nearer view of the Mahoning mountain 
and the Lehigh hills. The Mahoning creek flows at 
the foot of the Mahoning mountain, and empties into 
the Lehigh within half a mile of the village, where has 
been discovered a mineral spring, the waters of which 
have proved highly beneficial in many cases of disease 
and debility. 



^ BETHLEHEM. 

The Lehigh Water Gap is 3 miles farther. The 
river is here confined within very narrow limits, being 
bounded on either side with the bold and precipitous 
Kittatinny mountains. The scenery is in a high de- 
gree wild, picturesque and frequently sublime. Be- 
low the mountains the features of nature are less mag- 
nificent, but still follow in a romantic succession of 
strongly contrasted and elegant landscapes. 

Bethlehem is 11 miles from the Water Gap. It is a 
settlement of the Moravians, or United Brethren. The 
situation is healthful and pleasant, and it is a place 
much resorted to in the summer months. The church 
belonging to the society, is one of the largest in the 
state, though exhibiting in its structure much plainness. 
From its steeple, a very beautiful, picturesque and ex- 
tended view can be obtained. In one direction the 
scene stretches for upwards of 20 miles along the course 
of the Lehigh and the Water Gap, the wandering ex- 
plorations of the eye terminating at the Blue Mountain 
range. 

When a death occurs, a part of the choir ascend the 
steeple, where a requiem or funeral hymn is sung for 
their departed brother or sister. The body is subse- 
quently placed in what is termed the "corpse house," a 
building detached from all others, where it remains 
three days, typical of the death and burial of the Sav- 
iour, and then is interred in the church yard. This is 
divided into various departments and methodically ar- 
ranged, though with much plainness and simplicity. 

The society take charge of their own poor, of which, 
however, there are very few ; a strong argument in fa- 
vor of their regulations. 



I 



> 



EASTON. 89 

The town is supplied with water from the Monocko- 
sy creek. The works are said to be the oldest in the 
state, having been in operation more than eighty years. 
Those at Fairmount,Philadelpliia, are constructed upon 
similar principles. The house where Gen. La Fayette 
lay during his recovery from the w^ound he received at 
the battle of Brandywine, is pointed out here. His 
nurse on that occasion has continued to reside in the 
place ever since, and received a visit from him when he 
was last in this country. 

Easton is 12 miles from Bethlehem, and is the capi- 
tal of Northampton county, Fenn. It is located on the 
Delaware river, immediately above the entrance of the 
Leliigh, in a valley between the Musconetcunk moun- 
tains. Several rude and isolated hills stand in the val- 
ley, commanding extensive views and giving to the 
place a picturesque appearance. The town is tasteful- 
ly laid out, with an open square in the centre, and con- 
tains several handsome dwellings. Its public buildings 
are a court house, jail, poor house, 3 churches, a bank 
and an academy. A bridge extending across the Del- 
aware at this place cost $60,000. There is also a chain 
bridge across the Lehigh. 

The location of Easton is highly favorable for trade ; 
and it will ultimately become one of the most impor- 
tant towns in the state. Besides the great advantages 
here possessed for manufacturing purposes, and the 
contiguity of the place to the Delaware and Lehigh riv- 
ers, it is the point at wliich three important canals, the 
Delaware, the Lehigh and the Morris concentrate. The 
two first have already been noticed. (See page 74.) 



» 



90 MORRIS CANAL. 

The Morris Canal extends from Easton to New- 
ark, N. Jersey, a distance of 86 miles, and from thence 
to Powle's Hook, opposite New- York, 8 miles further, 
lockage 1600 feet, which is surmounted by inclined 
planes. The eastern section of this canal was com- 
pleted in 1829. From Newark to Patterson, the coun- 
try through which the canal passes is beautiftil. At the 
latter place, a view of the extensive manufactories is 
had, located on the north. On the south, the canal for 
some distance is bounded by mountainous i-ugged cliffs, 
the rocky excavations through which were attended 
with great labor and expense. Four miles above Pat- 
terson is what is called the Grand Aqueduct across the 
Passaic river at the Little Falls. This aqiieduct may 
justly be ranked, for its admirable construction, work- 
manship, space of the arch and elevation, with the 
greatest objects of curiosity in artificial navigation, and 
altogether may be considered superior to any thing of 
the kind in this country. Half a mile further is an 
aqueduct across the Pompton river, a M^ork of consider- 
able magnitude. The whole route, indeed, from New- 
ark to Easton is interesting, and worthy the attention 
of the tourist. 

.From Easton to the Delaware Water Gap, the distance 
is 23 miles. The route proceeds up the river to Rich- 
mond, 14 miles ; from thence to Williamsburgh, 4 
miles ; and from the latter place to the Water Gap, 5 
miles. The current of the stream is here contracted at 
the base of two lofty mountains in opposite directions, 
between which the passage is extremely narrow. It is 
supposed tliat here was formerly a barrier over which 



NEWARK. 91 

the river flowed in the form of a cataract, which was 
subsequently worn away, leaving a smooth unruffled 
current. Tlie scene is wild, and highly interesting. 

Trom Easton to the Delaioare Wind Gap, an impor- 
tant passage through the Blue Mountains, is 12 miles, 
in a northwardly direction. 

JProJU Easton to Schooly^s Mountain, and thence to J^ew- 
York, the whole distance is 71 miles, as folloM^s : 



Miles. 
From Easton to Pliil- 

ipsbugh, 1 

Top of Schooly's 

Movmtain, 24 

Mendham, 12 



Miles. 

Morristown, 6 

Passaic river, 7 

Newark, 11 

New- York, 10 



Schooly's Mountain, in New-Jersey, is a place of 
fashionable resort from New- York, in the summer 
months, owing to its cool, airy and healthful situation, 
and to the extensive prospect afforded from its top ; on 
which there is an excellent public house. "Within a 
mile of its summit there are mineral springs, which 
are usually resorted to by visitants at the mountain 
house. 

Newark, N. J. which is located on the route, and 
which is within 10 miles of N. York, is one of the most 
elegant villages in the union. It is situated near the 
west bank of the PasSaic river, 3 miles from its mouth, 
and is laid out in regular streets, the principal being 
200 feet wide. The public square, near the centre, is 
very handsome, and is surrounded by a number of ele- 
gant private dwellings. The public buildings in the 

H 



98 



FROM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 



place are a court house, jail, two banks, an academy 
and six churches. The population in 1830 was 10,705. 
Having thus far diversfed from the usual route to the 
north, for the purpose of describing the coal region, and 
the most interesting natural and artificial objects con- 
nected therewith, we return to Pluladelphia, to resume 
the regular excui«ion. 

FROxM PHILADELPHIA TO NEW-YORK. 

The routes and modes of conveyance being various, 
we give a sketch of each, that the traveller may nialie 
Buch selection as shall be most agreeable, 

'Steam Boat and Rail Road route. ^ 

Since the completion of the Camden and Amboy rail 
road from Bordentovvn to Amboy, the traveller will find 
this a very easy, elegant and expeditious route. The 
distance from Philadelphia to Kew-York is 85 miles, 
and tlie intermediate distances as follows : 



By steam boat. 

Miles. 
From Philadelphia to 
Burlinffton, N. J... 18 

Bristol, Penn 1 

Bordentown, N. J. . . . 9 



• By rail road. 

Miles. 

Hiffhtstown, 14 

Amboy, 20 

By steam boat. 
New- York, 23 



Burlington, the capital of the county of the same 
name, is 12 miles below Trenton and 18 above Phila- 
delphia, It is delightfully situated, and contains some 
handsome public and private houses, 

Bristol is one mile farther, on the opposite side of 
the Delaware, in Bucks county, Pennsylvania. This 
plaoe contains several fine residences, and is an attrac- 



CAMDEN AND AMBOT RAIL ROAD. 9S 

live and interesting: country village. Some of its flow- 
er gardens, ■which are unusually elegant, and located 
on the margin of the river, add much to the beauty of 
its appearance. 

BoRDENTOWN, 9 miles farther, and six below Tren- 
ton, is noted as the late residence of the Count de Sur- 
villiers, the ex-king of Spain, whose elegant mansion 
was witliin a few years burnt by accident, but is now 
rebuilt with additional embellishment and maffnifi- 
cence. His villa commands a fiae. view of the river. 
The soil around it is unproductive ; but by the aid of 
culture and art, his residence now exhibits ah appear- 
ance of taste and munificence worthy the princely for- 
tune and dignity of its proprietor. 

At Bordentown, the Camden and Ambot Rail 
Road is taken, which is finished to South Amboy ; 
from whence a steam boat is again taken, which lands 
passengers at New- York, The charter of this road 
was granted by the legislature of New- Jersey in 1830, 
and the travel between Bordentown and Amboy com- 
menced in 1832. Camden, the south-western point at 
which the road is to terminate, is a small village on the 
Delaware, opposite Philadelphia, 27 miles below Bor- 
dentown, where the river is about one mile in breadth. 
South Amboy is seated at the head of the Raritan Bay, 
61 miles and ten chains from Camden, as measured by 
the course of the rail road ; and is about 23 miles from 
the city of New- York, (by water,) making the whole 
distance from Camden to New^York rather less than 
85 miles. 



94 CAMDEN AND AMBOT RAIL ROAD- 

South Amboy, where the road terminates at the eas- 
tern end, is one of the finest harbors in the United 
States, accessible at all seasons for the largest vessels 
from the sea and from New- York ; so that the commu- 
nication with Philadelphia and foreign countries bj-this 
route will be uninterrupted. Possessing, too, great ad- 
vantages for a port of entry and departure, dvuing the 
winter months, and having added to it the facilities for 
transportation of the cargoes of merchant traders by the 
rail road, it must become an important point for the 
mercantile operations of Philadelphia, independently of 
the advantages of its nearer connection with N. York. 

The tolls and freight for these cargoes must treble the 
profits now derived from this source and the passage of 
persons across the state of New- Jersey. The sum now 
received for light freight and the passage of persons, by 
the present conveyances, is estimated to exceed y$500,- 
000. The completion of the whole of this great work, 
has been calculated as nothkely to exceed $1,200,000 ; 
so that it is probable, when the road gets fully into op- 
eration, a very heavy amount will be annually return- 
ed to the stockholders. 

The company have also been allowed to take the 
stock authorized to be raised for cutting a canal from 
the Delaware to the Raritan river, and have purchased 
out all the turnpike companies from the one to the oth- 
er, and thus secured to themselves a monopoly of the 
transit business of every kind, during the continuance 
of their charter, (50 years.) 

It is proper, however, to add that the state has re- 
served 1000 shares of the stock, amounting to $10,000, 
and has received from the company a guaranty for the 
payment of ^30,000 annually. 



STEAM BOAT AND STAGE ROUTE. 95 

A single track, with occasional turnouts, has thus 
far only been made ; but the workmanship and mate- 
rials are of the best and most durable kind. Entire iron 
rails are used, which rest on stone blocks and sleepers. 

The carriages are elegant, and among the best which 
have been constructed ; and a trip across the road will 
be ranked among the novelties and pleasures of a 
northern tour. 

Steam Boat and Stage Route — 97 miles. 

TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



Miles. 
By steam boat. 
From Philadelphia to 

Burlington, IS". J. . . 18 

Bristol, Penn 1 

Bordentown, N. J. . . . 9 

Trenton, 7 



Jfliles. 
By stage. 

Princeton, 11 

Kingston, 3 

New-Brunswick, .... 12 
By steam boat. 

Perth Amboy, 13 

EUzabethtown Point, 13 

New- York, , 10 



Burlington, Bristol and Bordentown, have al- 
ready been noticed at pages 92 and 93. 

Trenton, the capital of the state of New-Jersey, is 
situated on the Delaware river, 35 miles from Philadel- 
phia. It contains about 6000 inhabitants, a state house, 
two banks, and six houses of public worship. At Tren- 
ton the steam-boat navigation on the Delaware ter- 
minates. The river here forms a considerable rapid or 
falls, near which is an elevated bridge, about a quarter 
of a mile long, neatly roofed, and the sides enclosed to 
secure it from the weather. The distance between 
Trenton and New-Brunswick is passed by an excel- 
h2 



96 PRINCETON. 

lent line of post-coaches, which leave the former place 
immediately on the arrival of the boat. This route af- 
fords the traveller a fine view of the most fertile section 
of the state ; and, making all allowances for roads, 
which are ordinary, it is, in other respects, by no means 
devoid of interest. 

It was in this section of New- Jersey, and at the 
gloomiest period of the contest, that some of the 
most important scenes of the revolution, and those 
wliich gave a point and character to the American 
war, transpired. It was for a length of time in the pos- 
session of the English, and was the theatre of much 
carnage and bloodshed. The capture of a detachment 
of English and German troops in December, 1 776, at 
Trenton, was the first signal victoiy that crowned our 
arms in the revolutionary contest. It cheered the droop- 
ing and depressed spirits of our httle army, and impart- 
ed new vigor to the cause of liberty. The retreat of 
Wasliington with his troops, from Trenton, considering 
the circumstances which sun-ounded him, and the se- 
crecy with which it was accomplished, may be justly 
contemplated as one of the most successful movements 
of that eventful period.* 

Princeton is located on an elevated piece of land 
11 miles from Trenton, 15 from New-Brunswick, 46 
from Philadelphia, and 51 from New- York. It over- 
looks an extensive prospect, and is a very handsome 
village. It contains a college, theological seminary, a 



* A rail road is noAV constructing between this place 
and Philadelphia. 



NEW-BRUNSWICK — STATEN ISLAND, 97 

presbyterian church, and about 100 dwelling houses. 
The college of New- Jersey was founded in 1738. It 
has a president, 3 professors, and 2 tutors. 

The theological seminary was established in 1812, 
by the general assembly of the presbyterian church. 
It has 3 professors, a respectable library, and upwards 
of 100 students. 

In the college yard are the remains of the presidents 
of the institution, Burr, Edwards, Davis, Finley, With- 
erspoon and Smith. 

New-Brunswick is the starting place for the New- 
York steam-boats. In this village is the theological 
seminary, under the direction of the synod of the Dutch 
reformed church. The village also contains a court 
house, gaol, a college edifice, and five churches.* 

Perth Abiboy is 13 miles from New-Brunswick, 23 
south-west of New- York, and 74 north-east of Phila- 
delphia. Its harbor is one of the best on the continent. 

Elizabethtown, 13 miles farther, in a south-west- 
erly direction from New- York, is pleasantly situa- 
ted on a creek emptying into Staten Island Sound. A 
steam-boat plies between the point and New- York. 

Staten Island, constituting the county of Rich- 
mond, is 14 miles long and 8 wide. It was the resi- 
dence of the late vice-president Tompkins, and con- 
tains several delightful country seats. 



ji * A rail road is now constructing from this place, 
I tlu"ough Newark to Jersey City, opposite New- York. 



98 



NEW-YORK. 



LAND ROUTE — 94 miles. 

Miles. 



From Philadelphia to 

Rising Sun, 4 

Milesto wn, 3 

Tacony creek, 2 

Jenkintown, 2 

Abinffton, 1 

Willo wgrove, 2 

Hatborough, 2 

Cross Roads, 4 

Neshaininy Bridge,. , 3 

Greenville, 5 

Great Spring, 3 

New Hope, 2 



Miles. 
Cross the Delaware to 

.Lambertsville, N. J. 1 

New Meeting, 3 

Old Ringos, 3 

Raritan Bridge, 14 

Somerville, 4 

Roundbrook, 4 

Plainfield, 6 

Scotch Plains, 3 

Springfield, 6 

Camptown, 4 

Newark, 3 

New- York, 10 



This route may be varied so as to pass through New- 
Brunswick ; or it may be continued up the Pennsyl- 
vania side to Easton, and from thence by Schooly's 
Mountains to New- York. (See p. 91.) 

The price of fare from Philadelphia to New- York is 
$3,50, and the route is usually performed in from 9 to 
12 hours. 

On approaching New-York, the most prominent ob- 
jects that meet the eye, are Fort La Fayette, Castle 
Williams, the lofty spires of Trinity and St. Paul's 
churches, and the Catholic cathedral. 

NEW- YORK. 

This city is situated on the point of York Island, at 
the confluence of the Hudson and East rivers, in lati- 
tude 40. It was founded by the Dutch, in 1615, under 
the name of New- Amsterdam, and was incorporated 
by the British in 1696. The island on which it stands 
is 15 miles longr, and from 1 to 3 miles broad. The city 
is situated on the south part of the island, and extends 



1 



NEW-YORK. 99 

along the Hudson about 2 miles, and from the Battery 
along East river nearly 4 miles. The early settlements 
were commenced at and near the Battery, from which 
streets were extended without reference to order or 
regularity ; and this accounts for the seeming want of 
■[ taste in laying out the streets towards the docks and 
harbor. 

The Battery is situated at the south-west point of 
the city, opposite to Governor's island. It is hand- 
somely laid out into gravel walks, and tastefully deco- 
rated with shrubbery and trees. It is much frequent- 
ed by the citizens in the warm season, as well for the 
purpose of partaking of the refresliing sea breeze, as 
for enjoying the prospect, which, from this place, in- 
cludes the harbor with its various shipping. Governor's 
island, Bedlow's island, and Ellis' island, on each of 
which are military stations, the shores of New-Jersey 
and Long Island, with the flourishing town of Brook- 
lyn, and the numerous country seats in its vicinity. 

Castle Garden, connected with the battery by a 
bridge, is much frequented during the summer even- 
ings. It has a fine promenade, and is often rendered 
attractive by a display of fire works from its enclosure, 
and other amvisements. 

Broadway, the most splendid street in the city, runs 
through the centre and extends 3 miles in- length and 
about 80 feet in width. It is the great and fashionable 
resort for citizens and strangers, and is much crowded 
during pleasant weather. In this avenue are Grace, 
Trinity and St. Paul's churches, the Adelphi Hotel, 
ji City Hotel, National Hotel, Franklin House, Ameri- 



100 NEW-TORK. 

can Hotel, Washington Hall, Masonic Hall, and a va- 
riety of shops with elegant and extensive assortments 
of merchandize of every description. 

Opposite Trinity church, Wall-street opens, which 
contains the Exchange, most of the banks, together 
with the principal part of the brokers' and insm^ance of- 
fices. 

On passing up Broadway still farther, is Cedar and 
Courtlandt streets, both of which lead to the Hudson 
river, where the steam-boats start for Albany, New- ■ 
port. Providence and Boston. At the foot of Courtlandt- 
street is the ferry to Jersey city. A little further up is 
Fulton-street, on the corner of which and Broadway 
stands St. Paul's church. Fulton-street leads to the 
East river ; along the docks of which are the steam- 
boats for Bridgeport, Saybrook, Hartford, New-Lon- 
don, Norwich and New-Haven. At the foot of Barclay . 
street, extending to the Hudson river west of the Park, 
the Philadelphia steam-boats connected with the rail 
road are located ; also a part of the Albany boats, and 
the Hobokcn ferry boats. 

Above St. Paul's church is the Park and City Hall, 
situated in the centre of the city, the former containing 
about 11 acres, which are ornamented with much taste, 
and enclosed by a substantial iron railing. It furnish- 
es a cool and fashionable resort for men of business and 
pleasure, after the fatigue and heat of a summer's day. 
On the right is the Park Theatre, and on the left Park 
Place, on the west side of which is Columbia College. 
The next street above Park Place is Murray, which 
leads to the Hobokeri ferry. 

Of the public buildings, the most prominent and im- 
portant is the 



1 



NEW-YORK. 101 

City Hall, the front of which is built of white mar- 
ble. It is 216 feet long, 105 feet broad, and, including 
the attic story, 65 feet high. The rooms for holding the 
different courts of law are fitted up in a rich and ex- 
pensive style. The room for holding the mayor's court 
contains portraits of Washington, of the different gov- 
ernors of the state, and many of the most celebrated 
commanders of the army and navy of the United States. 
The foundation stone of this building was laid in 1803, 
and the whole finished in 1812, at an expense of $500,- 
000. It is one of the most elegant edifices in America, 
and reflects great credit on the inhabitants for their 
munificence and taste. 

The Merchant's Exchange in Wall-street, is also 
a superb structure of white marble. Its front on Wall- 
street is 114 feet, and its depth, extending to Garden- 
street, 1 50 feet. The main body of the building is two 
stories high, besides the basement and an attic. A- 
bout two thirds of the basement is occupied for the 
post-office, including a spacious corridor for the con- 
venience of persons visiting the office, with entrances 
leading thereto from Wall and Exchange streets. The 
portico of the building, to which a flight of marble steps 
ascends, is ornamented with Ionic columns 27 feet 
high. In the centre is the Exchange, of an oval form, 
85 feet long, 55 feet wide and 45 feet high, surmounted 
with a dome, from which light is reflected. The whole 
is imposing, and affords a delightful promenade. From 
the Exchange are doors and passages leading to a com- 
mercial reading room and numerous newspaper and 
other offices within the edifice. From the attic story, 
& flight of stairs leads to a telegraphic room in the cupalo, 



102 NEW-YORK. 

where signals are made, and returned from the tele- 
graph at the Narrows, 7^ miles distant. The height of 
the cupalo above the attic story is 60 feet. The cost of 
this building, including the ground, was $230,000. It 
was commenced in 1824, and completed in 3 years 
thereafter. 

The United States Branch Bank, in Wall-street, 
is an elegant white marble building, 60 feet in front. 
The lot on which it was erected cost $40,000. 

Two doors west of this is the Custom-House; on wliich 
scite a new and splendid building is soon to be erected. 

Trinity Church, in Broadway, at the head of Wall 
street, from its antique appearance, generally attracts 
the notice of strangers. The first church on tliis spot 
was erected in 1696. Originally small, it was enlarged 
in 1737 ; but during the fire wliich destroyed the west- 
part of the city in 1776, wliile the British troops were in 
possession, it was destroyed, and not re-built till 1788. 
The present building is of stone, in Gothic style, and- 
much like the old one, except a diminution in size, and 
has a steeple 198 feet high. It contains a chime of 
bells, the only set in the city, and an excellent organ. 

The cemetery surrounding it is ancjent, and is enclos- 
ed by a substantial and costly iron railing. No inter-^ 
ments have taken place in this cemetery for some years, 
owing to a law proliibiting sepulture within the popu- 
lous parts of the city ; but it has been ascertained by 
authentic records kept, that more than one hundred and 
sixty thousand bodies have been here deposited, exclu- 
sive of the 7 years of the revolutionai-y war, when no 
records were kept. Among the illustrious dead who 
repose in this hallowed spot are the remains of Gen. 
Hamilton and Capt. Lawrence. The monument over 



NEW-TORK. 105 

the grave of the former contains the following inscrip- 
tion : 

" To the memory of AtEXANDER Hamilton, the 
corporation of Trinity church haa erected this monu- 
ment in testimony of their respect for the patriot of in- 
corruptible integrity, the soldier of approved valor, the 
statesman of consummate wisdom, whose talents and 
whose virtues will be admired by grateful posterity 
long after this marble shall have mouldered into dust. 
He died July 2, 1804, aged 47." 

The monument to the memory of Capt. Lawrence, 
who was killed during the last war in an engagement 
between the U. S- frigate Chesapeake, which he com- 
manded, and the British frigate Shannon, represents a 
broken column, as emblematical of liis premature death. 
It'was erected at the expense of the corporation. 

Within the church, in rear of the altar, and directly 
facing the entrance of the asile, is a beautiful and costly 
monument, erected to the memory of the distinguished 
and lamented Bishop Hobart. The design is allegori- 
cal, and highly expressive of the poetry of the art. 
The bishop is represented in his last moments, with his 
eyes lifted in confiding earnestness to heaven, which 
appears, from the peculiarity of the light, to be already 
opening its golden gates to receive liis departing spirit. 
A female form, representing Religion, supports the 
head of the dymg prelate with her left arm, while the 
right extended, points upwards to the cross, surrounded 
with rays of celestial, spiritual light. The likeness is 
easily recognized, and the attitude of the bishop, over 
whose sinking frame the lassitude of death is stcalinf?, 
and upon whose countenance the holy and seraphic joy 
I 



104 NEW-YORK. 

of the christian is contending with the mortal agony of 
the man, claims the warmest commendation of the art- 
ist's skill. The inscription* is as follows: "Beneath 
this chancel rest the jTiortal remains of John Henry 
HoBART, Rettor of Trinity -church in this city, bishop 
of the protestant episcopal church in the state of New- 
York, Born in Philadelphia September 14th, 1775 ; 
died during a visitation to the western parts of liis dio- 
cese in Auburn, 12th September, 1830. The vestry, 
in behalf of the associated congregations of Trinity 
church, have caused this monument to be erected in 
memory of the public services, private virtues, and 
christian graces of their beloved and lamented pastor; 
in testimony of their respect for the wisdom, energy 
and piety of their revered diocesan ; in honor of the 
faithful and valiant soldier of Christ, who on all occa- 
sions stood forth the able and intrepid champion of the 
church of God." 

St. Paul's Chapel is a superb structure further up 
Broadway, near the Park. It contains a portico of the 
Ionic order, consisting of four fluted pillars of brown 
stone, suppoi"ting a pediment, with a niche in the cen- 
tre containing a statue of St. Paul. Under the portico 
is a handsome monument erected by order of congress 
to the memory of Gen. Montgomery, who fell at the 
storming of Gluebec in 1775, and whose remains were 
brought to New- York and interred beneath the monu- 
ment in 1820. The spire of this church is 234 feet 
high; and the whole building is esteemed one of the 
best specimens of arcliitecture in the city. In the church 
yard adjoining is an elegant monument, recently erected 
to the memory of Thomas Addis Emmet, an eminent 



NEW-YORK. 105 

counsellor at law, and brother of the unfortunate Irish 
orator, Robert Emmet. The plinth of the monument is 
one entire block, 7 feet square and 12 inches thick. 
The Egyptian obelisk, standing on its base, is also in a 
single piece, and is rising of thirty-two feet high. The 
face towards Broadway is embellished with the Ameri- 
can eagle, sheltering a harp unstrung, with a medallion 
likeness of Emmet, and with two clasped hands, having 
stars around one wrist and shamrocks around the other. 
On the face fronting Broadway is an English ; on that 
towards St. Paul's church, a Latin ; and on that to- 
wards Fulton street, an Irish inscription. 

St. John's Chapel, in Varick street, opposite Hud- 
son Square, is an elegant edifice, and the most expen- 
sive church in the city, having cost more than $200,- 
000. Its spire is 240 feet in height. \ 

St. Patrick's Cathedral, a Roman Catholic church, 
in Mott street, is the largest religious edifice in New- 
York. It is built of stone, is 1 20 feet long, 80 feet wide, 
and is a conspicuous object in approaching ^^the city 
from the east. 

There are nearly 100 other churches in[the city, ma- 
ny of which were erected at a very considerable ex- 
pense, and are an ornament to the sections of the citjf 
in which they stand. 

Columbia College, above the City Hall, was char- 
tered in 1750, under the name of King's College. The 
edifice and grounds attached are extensive, and are ad- 
vantageously and handsomely located. The college 
contains a chapel, lecture rooms, hall, library, museum, 
and an extensive philosophical and astronomical appa- 



106 NEW-YORK. 

ratug. The Hon. William A. Duer, a gentleman of 
distinguished talents and learning, twresides over the in- 
stitution. 

The New- York Society Library, in Nassau street, 
was commenced in 1740, and at the commencement of 
the revolution contained 3000 volumes, Avhich were de- 
stroyed or taken away by the British troops. It was 
re-established in 1789, and now consists of about 20,- 
000 volumes, many of which are very rare and valua- 
ble. 

The Atheneum, Broadway, corner of Pine street, 
contains a reading room, which is open daily, except 
Sundays. 

The New- York Institution is in the rear of tho 
City Hall. Its apartments are occupied by tl^e Litera- 
ry and Philosophical Society, the Historical Society, 
the American Academy of Fine Arts, the Lyceum of 
National History, the American Museum, and the Asy- 
lum for the Deaf and Dumb. The Historical Society 
has a library of 1'0,000 volumes, embracing many valu- 
able works. 

Near the institution are the Savings Bank and Pan- 
orama Rotundo ; and a little further up Broadway, the 
New- York Hospital. The annual expenditure in tliis 
institution is about $40,000, and the annual number of 
patients from 140 to 180. 

The Park Theatre is a spacious edifice, adjoining 
the Park. It was originally built in 1798, at an expense 
of $179,000, was "destroyed by fire in 1820,- and re-built 
the following year. It is 80 feet long^ 165 deep, and 55 



NEW-YORK. 107 

high, and has generally been more liberally patronized 
than any other theatre in the city. 

The American Theatre, in the Bowery, displays 
much architectural beauty, and among the modem or- 
naments of the city, stands pre-eminent. It has a front 
of 75 feet, is 1 75 feet deep, and 50 feet high. It enjoys 
a handsome patronage. 

Besides these places of amusement, there is a thea- 
tre at Richmond HiU, and a circus in Broadwav, be- 
tween Canal and Grand streets. 

PRINCIPAL HOTELS. 

The A DELPHI Hotel, corner of Beaver street and 
Broadway, kept by Mr. Charles A. Law, is an elegant 
establishment, built of brick and stuccoed. Its situa- 
tion is in a most delightful part of the city, fronting the 
Bowling Green, and in full view of the Battery' and 
harbor. It is six stories liigh, and possesses spacious 
and airy accommodations. 

The Atlantic Hotel, kept by Mr. M'Niel Sey- 
mour, No. 5, Broadway, is a first rate establishment, 
elegantly furnished, and well patronized. 

The Mansion House, (Bunker's,) 39 Broadway, is a 
commodious establishment, pleasantly located, and en- 
joys a handsome patronage of genteel company. 

TheCiTT Hotel, a few doors north of Trinity church 
in Broadway, kept by Mr. Jennings, is an old and liigh- 
ly respectable establishment, and one of the most ex- 
tensive in the city, containing more than 100 parlors 
and lodging rooms, (many of them designed for private 
famiUes) besides an assembly room, principadly used 

i2 



108 NEW-YORE. 

for concerts. The rooms "are furnished in the best 
style, and the house, from its central location and good 
■accommodations, has always enjoyed an extensive pat- 
ronage. 

The National Hotel, kept by Mr. John Niblo, 
nearly opposite the City Hotel, is a large and excellent 
house, well furnished, and well supported. 

The Congress Hall, kept by Mr. Charles H. Webb, 
No. 144, Broadway, is well located, and affords the best 
of accommodations. 

Franklin House, Broadway, corner of Dey street, 
kept by Mr. NeM^ton Hayes, though' not so extensive 
as some of the other establishments, is pleasantly loca- 
ted, furnished in good style, and enjoys a handsome 
patronage. 

The American Hotel, kept by Mr. Boardman, is 
delightfully situated, fronting the Park in^B road way, 
and is among the most favored establishments in the 
city. It is five stories high, and extends on Barclay 
street to the college of Physicians and Surgeons. Its 
public and private parlors and lodging rooms, which 
are numerous, are furnished in the best stylo, and it is 
extensively patronized by a fasliionable and respecta- 
ble company. 

The Washington Hall is another extensive estab- 
lislunent in Broadway, corner of Reed street, hand- 
somely fitted up, and possessing excellent accommoda- 
tions. 

Holt's Hotel, forming an allinement on three 
streets, the one part in Water, another in Pearl, and its 
eastern limit facing on Fulton street, and occupying the 



NEW-YORK. 109 

entire block, is one of the most extensive and expen- 
sive establishments of the kind in the United States. 
It is built of white marble, and is six stories high, ex- 
clusive of the basement, having an attic of ample di- 
mensions, and surmounted by a lofty quadrangular 
tower, around which there is an extensive and pleasant 
promenade. Above this there is a spacious rotundo, 
from whose exalted summit a view is obtained of near- 
ly the whole city, the East river, Brooklyn, part of Long- 
Island, the entire upper bay and harbor, Staten Ifoland, 
a very considerable extent of the Hudson river and the 
Jersey shore. Tn the basement stor}-, a steam engine 
of 12 horse power is placed, by means of wliicli ma- 
chinery is put in motion which carries up through a 
perpendicular casement the cooked provision for the 
guests, which, by this means, is conveyed almost to the 
side of the table where it is to be consumed. The sec- 
ond floor is occupied by drawing and sitting rooms, the 
large dining room being 100 feet in length and 28 in 
breadth, well supplied with light from numerous win- 
dows, and elegantly furnished. The third floor, con- 
taining parlor, dining, retiring and receiving rooms, is 
exclusively appropriated to the accommodation of gen- 
tlemen having ladies and families. The other three 
stories and the attic, are judiciously divided into sitting 
and lodging rooms, with parlors, all of which are fur- 
nished in a style of richness and neatness, calculated to 
afford comfort and a home to every inmate. On the 
side and in the centre of the main stairway, the dumb 
waiters rise, by the aid of the steam-engine in the base- 
ment, to the tower, and by the active power of this en- 
gine, and the use of forcing pumps, each story is at all 



no NEW-YORK. 

times furnished with cold and hot water for the baths 
in the attic, and for ordinary uses in the several rooms. 
The house from the base to the foot of the tower is 100 
feet hiffh, and 140 to the summit. There are 165 
rooms, 25 of which are parlors, 125 are lodging rooms, 
and the residue appropriated to other useful purposes. 

Besides the foregoing public establishments, are 
Tammany Hall, (Lovejoy's,) Park Row, corner of 
Frankfort street ; United States Hotel, Horatio 
Blake, No. 178, Pearl street ; Clinton Hall, oppo- 
site the Park, in Beekman street ; Merchant's Ho- 
tel, by Messrs. Thurston & Co. No. 108, Broad street, 
and several others of respectability, an enumeration of 
which wall not be deemed necessary in this work. 

Private Boarding Hoiises. The follo^^^ng are 
among the genteel and respectable private boarding 
houses in Bi'oadv.'ay, many of which are extensive, and 
fitted up in a style not inferior to the best hotels : Mrs. 
Baker's, No. 13; Mrs. Wood's, No. 24 ; Mrs. Chap- 
man's No. 33 ; , No. 35 ; Street's, No. 36 ; Mrs. 

W. C. Barker's, No. 40 ; Mrs. Keese's, No. 52 ; Pear- 
cy's, No. 56 ; Mrs. Miller's, No. 57 ; Mrs. Helmes', 
No. 58 ; Mrs. Mann's, No. 61 ; Mrs. Southart's, No. 

65 ; , No. 66 ; Mrs. Waldron's, No. 126 ; Miss 

Wade's, No. 110. 

The prices at these houses vary from $1 to $2 per 
day, and from $5 to $10 per week. 

In point of population, this city is the first in the 
United States, it having contained in 1830, 213,470 
inhabitants, and in respect of trade it is now and 
will probably continue the first commercial metropolis 



NEW-YORK. ill 

in America. Though it cannot vie with Philadelphia, 
in point of beauty and regularity, New- York exhibits 
an air of novelty and grandeur very imposing to a 
stranger. Its ever' bustling streets and crowded 
wharves, indicate an uncommon spirit 'of commercial 
enterprize. Its local situation embraces every advan- 
tage for commerce ; and the canals^ by opening an 
easy communication between the fertile regions of the 
west and north and the city of New- York, have pro- 
duced an astonishing change in its gi'owth and prosper- 
ity. At no very distant period, New- York, with all its 
natural and avtilicial advantages, will probably becomo 
the greatest commercial metropolis in the world. 

Packets. — The old line of London packets sail 
from New- York on the 1st, lOthand 20th, and from 
London on the 7th, 17th and 27th of each inonth. 

The old line of Liverpool packets sail from New- 
York and from- Liverpool on tlie 1st and 16th of each 
month. 

Fish, Grinnell and Go's. Liverpool packets leave 
New- York on the 8th, and Liverpool on tlie 24th of 
each month in the year. 

Wood and Trimble's packets sail from New- York 
on the 24th, and from Liverpool on 8th of each month 
in the year^ 

M'Omber's Liverpool packets sail from New- York 
and Livei'pool on the 1st and 15th of each month. 

Packets for Havre, leave New- York on the 1st, 8th, 
16th and 24th of each month, and Havre on the same 
days during the' year. 

New-Orleans packets sail from New- York on the 
5tl»,?8th, 13th,- 20th, 22d and 28th, dnd from New-Or- 



112 NEW-YORK. "^ 

leans on the 1st, 5th, 13th, 15th, 20th and 2Sth of each 
month. 

The elegant steam packet ship, David Brown, leaves 
New- York once a fortnight for Charleston, S. C. 

PUBLIC COACHES. 
Strangers visiting New- York are liable to suffer from, 
exorbitant exactions for coach hire. To guard against 
this, the corporation have licenced an adequate num- 
ber of hackman, who may be found at several conven- 
ient stands in the city, each coach being numbered. 
The rules and regulations to which they are subjected, 
can be found in the "Picture of New- York- and Stran- 
ger's Guide," published by Mr. Goodrich, 124 Broadway. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Among the numerous places of fashionable resortlrt 
the vicinity of New- York, are Governor's, Bedlow's 
and Staten Islands, -wathin the harbor ; Orange Springs* 
near Newark, Patterson, the Pasaic Falls, Hoboken 
and Weehawk, Schooly's Mountain, and Long Branch, - 
in New-Jersey, on the west ; Manhattan Island, on the 
north ; and the tour of Long Island on the east. 

Governor's and Bedloio's Islamls are usually approach- 
ed only in row boats, and are less frequented on that | 
account. 

Staten Island, south of the city, was noticed at page 97. 

In an excursion to Patterson and to the Passaic Falls^ 
the Patterson rail. road, which commeaces opposite 
New- York, will soon be in readiness for the convey- 
ance of passengers the whole distance. The company 
for constructing the road was incorporated in January, 



NEW-YORK. 115 

1831, and the western section was completed and car- 
riages placed thereon the following year. The whole 
length of the road is about 15 miles, in a north-westerly 
direction from New- York, and when completed, will 
afford an easy conveyance to the Passaic Falls and the 
thriving manufacturing village in their vicinity. The 
perpendicular pitch is 70 feet into a narrow and rocky 
chasm. The scenery is wild and imposing ; and the 
falls are among the greatest natural curiosities of this 
country. The Morris canal, noticed at page 90, passes 
near them. 

Hoboken and WeehaioJc are on the west side of the 
Hudson river, opposite the northern parts of New- 
York, near which is the Hoboken duelling ground, 
which cannot be easily approached, except in a boat. 
A monument was here erected some years since to the 
memory of Gen. Hamilton : but it has since been re- 
moved. 

Schooly^s Mountain, 50 miles west of New- York, was 
notice at page 91. 

. Long Branch, is 30 miles south of New- York, on the 
eastern shore of New-Jersey, and on the immediate 
bank of the Atlantic ocean, an extensive view of which 
is here obtained. A bathing establis,hment is erected, 
and the bank, which is elevated to a height of 30 or 
40 feet for' several miles, affords a beautiful promenade. 
Sandy Hook and Neversink can be visited on this 
route, the heights of the latter afibrding an extensive 
view of the marine coast. 

The Harlaem Rail Road was originally designed 
to commence at 23d street, in the northern part of the 
city of New- York, and pass through the centre of the 



114 MANHATTAN ISLAND. d| 

Fourth or Broadway avenue to Harlaem river, at & 
point about 300 yards above the bridge, making the 
length of the road about 5 miles. Subsequently, how- 
ever, an amendment of the charter was obtained, and 
permission by the corporation granted,' to extend the 
road southerly to Prince street ; one track passing- 
through the Fourth Avenvie^ Union Place, Blooming- 
dale road, and Broadway, and another through the 
Bowery. The road is therefore about eight miles long» 
It was commenced, and so far finished in 1832, that 
passenger carriages were placed on a part of the road^ 
The whole will be completed the present year (1833,) 
an will afford an additional and important excursion to- 
parties of pleasure. -It is believed, also, that by provid- * 
ing an easy a"iid expeditious mode of intercourse between 
the city and Harlaeni, nun>crous merchants and other 
men of business \vill be induced to select the latter as a 
place of residence. A morning and evening ride to 
and from the city, would be a mere pastime, without 
interfering with the Usual business hours : and would 
moreover prove a healthful and invigorating exercise.. 

Manhattan Island, on which 'New-York is located, is 
1 5 miles long, and on an average one and a half broad ; 
the Hudson river bounding it on the west, the Harlaeni 
river on the north, ihe East river on-tbe east, and the 
bay on the south. A tour of the isltind can be per- 
formed in a few hours, and will be found to be highly 
diversified and interesting. Passing up on the west 
side, the Asylum for the Insane, on very elevated ground 
about 7 miles from the city, the heights of Fort Wash- 
ington, Harlaem and Kingsbridge, are visited ; and in 



HURL GATE. 115 

returning on the east side, Hurl Gate, the Aims-House 
and House of Refuge. 

Hurl Gate is a narrow and apparently a dangerous 
strait in the East river, in which, at low water, there 
are numerous whirlpools or currents, occasioned by 
huge masses of rock projecting in various places, giv- 
ing to the river only a very contracted passage. At 
high water, these masses are more or less concealed, 
and the current is in a degree unruffled. Losses of 
vessels were formerly experienced here ; but none have 
been known in some years. To avoid the dangers, 
hoM'ever, incident to the navigation, a project has been 
formed of opening a ship canal between Pot and Hal- 
let's Coves. A survey of the proposed route has been 
made, and the result of the examination is, that the 
length of the canal, to secure a sufficient depth of wa- 
ter in the coves, will be 2439 running feet, viz, 470 of 
excavation below high water, 1369 of high upland with 
indication of rock, and 600 of salt marsh. As the 
tide rises and falls in Hallet's Cove several minutes 
sooner than in the Pot, (Hurl Gate,) it would be ne- 
cessary to have two pairs of gates at each extremity. 
A draw-bridge would also be necessary, to accommo- 
date the ferry road which communicates from the Point 
at Hallet's Cove with the New- York shore, at the foot 
of 87th-street. The maximum cost is rated at $162,- 
152 for the entire completion of a canal 137 feet in 
. width at high water on the svirface, 80 at bottom, and 
28 in depth, which would be sufficiently capacious for a 
line of battle ship. It is, however, believed that a ship 
canal 17 feet deep at high water, 82 feet wide between 
the banks, and 40 at bottom, would be preferable ; in 



116 BROOELYK. H 

which case the cost of completion has been estimated 
at $54,548. 

Brooklyn, (on Long-Island,) directly opposite New- 
York, from which it is separated by the East river, is 
usually reached by steam-boats which are constantly 
plying between the foot of Fulton street and that vil- 
lage. In 1830, it had a population of 12,403, and with- 
in a few yesrs has arisen to much importance. Its con- 
tiguity to New- York, and the facilities afforded for 
communicating between the two places, have induced 
many merchants and men of business to select it as a 
place of residence in preference 1o the upper parts of 
the city. The village also contains several elegant 
country seats and public gardens. Those on the bank 
contiguous to the East river, from their elevated situa- 
tion, overlooking the bay of New- York, and command- 
ing a view of a great part of the city, are peculiarly at- 
tractive and romantic. North-eastward ly of the vil- 
lage, on a tract of land called the Wallabout, is a U. S. 
navy yard, where are erected a house for the command- 
ant, several spacious ware-houses, and an immense 
wooden edifice, under which the largest sliips of war 
are built. The steam frigate Fulton, which lay near 
the navy yard, and which was an object of attraction, 
was blown up at this place in 1829, occasioning the 
loss of several lives. 

Brooklyn is intimately connected with important 
events of the revolution, and in its vicinity are pointed 
out some remaining vestiges of fortifications and mil- 
itary works erected during that eventful period. The 
road to Flatbush (4 miles east) crosses the ground on 
which the battle of the 27th July, 1776, was fought, 



DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 117 

which resulted in a severe loss to the Americans and 
the capture of Generals Sullivan and Sterling. The 
marshes in which so many lives were lost in retreating 
from the British army, are south of this. 

From Brooklyn to Jamaica, a pleasant village, and 
the capitol of the county of Clueens, is 12 miles ; and 
from thence to Rockaway, bordering on the Atlantic, is 
9 miles farther. The roads to this place being excel- 
lent, it is much resorted to in the summer months. A 
fine view of the ocean is obtained, which, from its un- 
ceasing roar and turbulence, is rendered unusually 
sublime. 

DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 

" From the collections of the New- York Historical 
Society, we are enabled to glean the following sketch 
of the first discovery of the Hudson river ; which may 
not be uninteresting to tourists about to embark on its 
waters : 

John D. Verrazzano, a Florentine, in the service of 
Francis I. of France, had been entrusted with the com- 
mand of four ships, in cruising against the Spaniards. 
These vessels being separated in a storm, the com- 
mander resolved, with one of them, to undertake a 
voyage for the discovery of new countries. About the 
middle of March, 1554, he accordingly arrived on the 
American coast, and after having visited the coasts of 
North-Carolina and Georgia, he directed liis course 
northward, and entered the harbor of the present city of 
New- York. He describes the islands (Staten, Man- 
hattan, &c.) as " fruitful and pleasant, full of hie and 
broad trees, among the which islands any navie may 



lis DISCOVERT OF THE HUDSON. 

ride safe, without any feare of tempest or other dan- 
ger." He stayed in the harbor about 15 days. 

Nearly a century elapsed before any farther discove- 
ries were made on this part of the continent. It was 
reserved for Henry Hudson to make the first voyage, 
up the Hudson river. After having visited several har- 
bors, he entered the strait now called the Narrows on 
the 6th September, 1G09. A boat was manned and des- 
patched by him to explore what appeared to be a river. 
In this service the boat's crew were engaged in the bay 
and adjacent waters during the day. On their way back 
to the ship, they were attacked by the natives in two 
canoes. A skirmish ensued, in which one of Hudson's 
men, named Colman, was killed by an arrow which 
struck him in the throat, and two more wounded. The 
next day the remains of Colman were interred on a 
point of land not far from the ship ; which, from that 
circumstance, received the name of Colman's Point, 
and wliich was probably the same that is now called 
Sandy Hook. 

On the 12th, Hudson first entered the river which 
bears his name, and sailed up about two leagues. He 
was visited by great numbers of the natives, who 
brought him Indian corn, tobacco, beans and oysters in 
great abundance. They had pipes of yellow copper, 
in which they smoked ; and earthen pots, in which they 
dressed their food. 

From the 12th to the 22d September, Hudson, was 
employed in ascending the river. He describes it as 
abounding with great stores of salmon. In his passage 
he was visited by many of the natives, but always in 
an amicable manner. He sailed up, as is supposed, a 



• DISCOVERY OF THE HUDSON. 119 

little above where the city of Hudson now stands ; be- 
yond which he himself never ascended. From this 
place he despatched a boat, (not considering it safe to 
proceed further with his vessel,) manned with five 
hands, which ascended the river, it is supposed, as far 
as where tho city of Albany now stands. 

Daring tliis excursion, Hudson gave to some of the 
Indians ardent spirits, for the purpose of making an ex- 
periment on their tempers. He says they all became 
merry ; but only one was completely intoxicated. A 
tradition still exists among the six nations, that a scene 
of intoxication occurred when the first ship arrived ; 
having reference, doubtless, to this event. 

Hudson began to descend the river on the 23d of 
September, having fi-equent intercourse with the Indi- 
ans on his way down, from whom he experienced kind 
treatment, until he descended below the Highlands. 
Here they attempted to rob the ship, and repeatedly 
shot at the crew. He directed several muskets to be 
[discharged at them, which killed ten or twelve. These 
conflicts occurred frequently during the 1st and 2d of 
[October ; but none of the sliip's crew were injured. 
I On the 4th of October, one month from the time he 
first landed at Sandy Hook, he sailed out of the river 
..and proceeded to sea, reaching England the 7th of No- 
f vember following. 

j Hudson did not give his own name to the river he 

discovered. It was called, by the Iroquois Indians, 

Cahohatatea ; b)^ the Mohiccans, Mahakaneghtuc, and 

' sometimes Shatemuck. Hudson styled it the " Great 

\ Eiver," or the " Great River of the Mountains." The 

k2 



120 * PROM NEW-YORK TO ALBAKT. 

name of its discoverer, however, was given to it soon 
afterwards. 

Hudson, in a subsequent voyage for the East India 
Company, became a prey to the mutiny of his men in 
the bay which bears his name. He was forcibly put 
into a boat with his son and seven others, who were 
mostly invalids, and, in this manner, inhumanly aban- 
doned. They were never heard of more. 

FROM NEW- YORK TO ALBANY, 

A distance, by water, of 144 miles, and by land, 
measuring betM'een the regpective post offices, of 160 
miles, a communication is alternately kept up by a hne 
of stages in the winter season, and by steam boats dur- 
ing the absence of the ice in the Hudson. The follow-' 
ing is a table of distances between the two places : 

DISTANCE BY WATER FROM 

o5 
u 

i ^ ^ 

New-York, 144 

Wehawken, . . 6 6 138 

Palisadoes, southern termination,. . . 2 8 136 

Fort Washington, 4 12 132 

Tappan Bay, southern extremity, . . 12 24 120 

Sing Sing, 8 32 112 

Haverstraw Bay, 2 34 110 

Stoney Point, 6 39 105 

Verplanck's Point, 1 40 104 

Horse Race, (Highlands,) , 2 42 102 

Anthony's Nose, 3 45 99 

WestPoirtt, i,. 6 60 94 



I 



PABSAoa or THE HnoeoN. Itr 



DISTANCE BT WATER PROM 

o 

£>< o 

^3 

Pollopel Island, ... i 's 56 88 

Newburgh, 4 60 84 

Milton, 11 71 73 

Foufihkeepsie, 4 75 68 

Hyde Park, 5 80 6S 

Rhinebeck, .,, 10 90 63 

Redhook, lower landing, 7 97 46 " 

■ Redhook, upper do 3 100 43 

Catskill, 11 111 32 

Hudson, 5 IIG 27 

Coxsackie, 8 124 19 

Kinderhook, 1 125 18 

New-Baltimore,.... 5 130 13 

Schodack, 4 134 © 

Albany, 10 144 

Boats leave New- York for Albany at 7 o'clock A. 
M. and at 5 P. M., and the trip is usually performed in 
from 12 to 14 hours — fare from ^3 to {i$3,50. A mor- 

\ ning b(5at will prove the most interesting to those who 
have never performed tlio route by day-lig-ht ; as it will 
afford an opportunity of witnessing the rich scenery 
and numerous villages and country seats between th« 

r two cities. 

THE PASSAGE OF THE HUDSON. 

I Besides the pleasure of a steam-boat passage, t|;ie 
Hudson river presents to the tourist a variety of natu- 
ral scenery wlaich it will be difficult to find elsewh©?* 



122 WEEHAWKEN PALISADOES. 

in a journey of the same extent. To the o-ratification 
derived from a prospect of the beautiful and sublime ob- 
jects of nature, the effect of the most striking contrast 
is added, to render the scene truly picturesque and en- 
"chantingf. On the one hand are seen summits, crown- 
ed with forests, apparently impenetrable to the foot- 
steps of cultivation, and on the other, beautiful and ex- 
tensive lawns, checkered with the abodes of husband- 
ry, and glowing in all the rich verdure of summer ; 
while in the same circumstances of vision may be seen 
the fading view of some town or city, and in perspec- 
tive a perpetual opening scenery of forests and cultiva- 
tion, plains and movmtains, towns and villages, impart- 
ing to the beholder all the charms of novelty, with the 
highest emotions of the sublime. 

Weehawkek, about 6 miles from the city, on the 
west side of the river, is pointed out to the traveller as 
the ground on which Gen. Hamilton fell in a duel with 
Col. Burr. It is a small spot on the margin of the riv- 
er, with huge rocks on three sndes, effectually screen- 
ing it from the observation of man, except from the riv-. 
er ; and probably has, for that cause, been selected as 
a suitable place for settling affairs of honor. Till with- 
in a few years, it contained a monument erected to the 
memory of Gen. Hamilton by the St. Andrews society ; 
but it has been removed. His body was deposited in 
the ground attached to Trinity church in the city, where 
there is a handsome monument, enclosed in an iron 
railing, (See pages 102 and H3.) 

The Palisadoes, which make their first appearance 
on tke Hudson, about 8 miles from New- York, are a 



FORT LEE FORT WASHiyCTON. 135 

range of rocks, from 20 to 550 feet in height, and ex- 
tend from tlience to Tappan, a distance of about 20 
miles. In some places they rise ahnost perpendicular- 
ly from the shore, and form, for several miles in extent, 
a solid wall of rock, diversified only by an occasional 
fishing hut on the beach'^at their base, or wood slides 
down their sides, and sometimes by an interval of a 
few acres of arable land, affording an opening for a 
landing place, and a steep road leading to their top. On 
the opposite side of the river, the land is varied by hill 
and dale, cultivated fields and woods, with cottages 
and country seats. The land in this place, however, 
back from the river, rises in rocky hills, and becomes 
more precipitous as you advance into Westchester 
county. 

Twelve miles from New- York, the boat passes the 
site of Fort Lee, on the brow of the Palisadoes, at the 
height of 300 feet above the river ; nearly opposite to 
which, on a high hill on the east side of the river, stood 
Fort Washington. In October, 1776, after the evac- 
uation of New- York by the American troops, follow- 
ed the battle of White Plains, by wliich name is 
known the high gi-ound on the east, between the Hud- 
son river and the Sound above Kingsbridge, whence 
Wasliington retreated to Peekskill, Fort Washington 
was then taken by the Hessians and British, and the 
garrison, composed of 2600 militia and regular troops, 
surrendered prisoners of war. The surrender of Fort 
Lee followed soon after Washington crossed the Hud- 
son. There was also on the east side another fort, call- 
ed Independence. 



124 TAPPAN BAT — TARRTTOWN. 

Twenty-four miles above New- York the river ex- 
pands and forms what is called Tappan Bay. The lit- 
tle village of Tappan, a place of much note during An- 
dre's and Arnold's conspiracy, is situated on its wes- 
tern shore. The spot of Andre's grave is still pointed 
out near this village, though his remains, a few years 
since, were conveyed to England, by order of the Brit- 
ish government. This bay is from 2 to 5 miles wide, 
and 8 miles long, terminating at Teller's Point. 

About a mile above Tappan village, on the eastern 
shore, is the village of Tarrttown, where Andre was 
captured by Paulding, Van Wart and Williams, the 
American militia-men. Paulding died some years ago, 
and a monument was erected over his grave by the cor- 
poration of New- York. Van Wart died more recently, j 
and a monument to his memory has been erected by ' 
the citizens of Westchester county. It is a neat struc- , 
ture of white marble, consisting of a base of three as- ' 
tending steps, and a pedestal upon which stands an I 
obelisk : in all, being from fifteen to eisrhteen feet high. : 
It stands by the road side, in a retired valley in 'the i 
own of Greensburgh, about three miles east of Tarry- i 
town. 

Near the northern extremety of Tappan Bay, on the ; 
eastern shore, is the Sing Sing state prison. It com- j 
prises 800 dormitaries or solitary cells, is 4 stories high, ; 
and occupies about 50 by 500 feet of ground. From I 
each end of the main building, which stands parallel | 
with the river, in a westerly direction, are carried out ; 
wings, 300 feet in extent, forming a spacious inner > 
yard, open only to the river. The wings, composed of 
marble, are constructed for workshops, a chapel, kitch- 



HAVERSTRAW BAY THE HIGHLANDS. 125 

en, hospital, &c. The chapel is of sufficient dimensions 
to hold 900 persons. The keeper's house, on the south- 
eastern end of the main building, is also constructed of 
marble. The number of convicts in the prison in 1832, 
was rising of 800. Its erection was commenced in 
1825 ; and its cost is estimated at rising of ^200,000. 

Haverstraw Bat commences 34 miles from New- 
York, and terminates at Stoney and Verplanck's Points ; 
being about 6 miles in length, and from 2 to 4 in width. 
Haverstraw village is on the west side of this bay. 

The Highlands, or Fishkill Mountains, which first 
appear about 40 miles from New- York, will attract no- 
tice, not only from their grandeur and sublimity, but al- 
so from their association with some of tlie most impor- 
tant events of tlie revolution. This chain of mountains 
is about 16 miles in width, and extends along both sides 
of the Hudson, to the distance of 20 miles. The height 
of the principal has been estimated at 1565 feet. Ac- 
cording to the theory of the late Doctor Mitchell, this 
thick and solid barrier seems in ancient days to have 
impeded the course of the water, and to have raised a 
lake high enough to cover all the country to Cluaker 
Hill and the Laconick Mountains on the east, and to 
Shawangunk and the Catskill Mountains on the west ; 
' extending to the Little Falls of the Mohawk, and to 
' Hadley Falls on the Hudson — but by some convulsion 
' of nature, the mountain chain has been broken, and the 
rusliing waters found their way to the now New- York 
bay. At the entrance of the Highlands, on the south, 
; is the site of an old fort on Verplanck's Point, opposite 



126 WEST POINT. 

to which stood the fort of Stoney Point, which was tak- 
en from Gen. Wayne in 1778, and re-taken by him the 
same year. About two miles north of this, what is 
termed the Horse Race commences. This consists of 
an angle in the river, which, for a httle more than a 
mile, takes an eastwardly direction, contracted to a 
very narrow space witliin bold and rocky mountains ; 
one of which, Anthony's Nose, is 1223 feet high, and 
is opposite the mouth of Montgomery creek, overlook- 
ing Forts Montgomery and Clinton. These forts, un- 
der command of Gen. Putnam, were captured by the 
British troops under Sir Henry Clinton, in 1777, when 
on his way to co-operate with Gen. Burgoyne ; the news 
of whose surrender, however, reached Sir Henry when 
he had proceeded as far as Kingston, 50 miles higher 
up, and changed his advance into a retreat. Bloody 
Pond, so called, from its being the place in which the 
bodies of the slain were thrown after the defences of 
these forts, is in the rear of Fort Clinton. 

West Point, one of the most impregnable posts dur- 
ing the revolutionary war, is situated on the M^est 
side of the Hudson, near the entrance of the High- 
lands on the north. It formed an important fast- 
ness of the American army during the eight years " 
contest with the British nation ; and the consequence 
attached to it, in a military point of view, was evin- 
ced by the repeated but unsuccessful efforts of the 
enemy to obtain it. It was here that Arnold con- 
ceived the horrid purpose of bartering his country for 



WE3f rOi:<T. 127 

gold.* This conspiracy, however, which aimed a death 
blow to hberty in the western hemisphere, resulted on- 
ly in the universal contempt and ignominy of Arnold, 
and in the lamented death of the unfortunate Andre. 
There are here at present a number of dwelhng-houses, 
and a military academy, built on the plain which forms 
the bank of the river, 188 feet in height, to which a road 
ascends on the north side of the point. In the back 
ground, and elevated on a mass of rocks 598 feet in 
height, is the site of Fort Putnam. Silence and decay 
now mark the spot of this once formidable fortress. Its 
mouldering ruins, however, convey a pretty correct 
idea of the impregnable barrier its ramparts once pre- 
sented to the enemies of freedom. 

The Military Academy here established by con- 
gress, was first organized under the direction of the late 
Gen. Williams, in 1802. Of the number of applicants 
for admission to this institution, a preference is usually 
given, first, to the sons of officers of the revolution j 
and secondly, to the sons of deceased officers of the 
late war. None are admitted under the age of 14 years, 
nor above the age of 22. The number of cadets is lim- 
ited to 250, each of whom costs the government $336 
annually ; and the whole establishment is maintained 
at an annual expense of $115,000. In addition to the 
various sciences, which are taught here, the cad'^t? are 



* The residence of Gen. Avnold was at the house 
and farm of Col. Beverly Robinson, opposite West 
Point, on the east bank of the Hudnon. The house is 
still a conspicuous object, as well as the one in which 
Arnold fixed his head quarters. 



12S WE5T POINT. 

instructed in all the practical minutiae of taclic? ; com- 
prehending the lowest duties of the private soldier, as 
well as the highest duties of the officer. They are al- 
so required to encamp for 6 or 8 weeks in a year ; dur- 
iig which time they are instructed in the manner of 
pitcliing and striking tents, in the various infantry evo- 
lutions, and in all the details of the camp. 

Several of the buildings at Y»^est Point are elegant, 
and among the number may be ranked a new and spa- 
cious hotel. It has been erected in a style and on a 
scale which render it a great ornament to the grounds. 
It is substantially built of stone, painted yellow, and the 
lower story is surrounded on its sides with extensive 
piazzas, forming a delightful promenade. Its rear is 
upon the Hudson, and presents a delightful view' up the 
river through the Highlands. The front faces the pa- 
rade ground and the ground used for the encampment. 

In the morning, the cadets drill as artillery, in front , 
of the camp. The system followed is that of Lalle- 1 
mand. The drill of the afternoon is that of infantry. 
But the principal attraction to the visiter is the morn- i 
ing and evening parade, in which the whole battalion, ' 
with the exception of the guard, is drawn out and car- ' 
ried through the manual, by the ofHcer comnianding. 

Near the north eastern extremity of the grounds, at j 
the p'ojecting point forming the abrupt bend of the 
river, stands a monument of white marble, consisting ' 
of a base and short column, on the former of which is | 
simply inscribed on one side, '* Kosciusko," it having ■ 
been erected to the memory of that distinguished patri- ' 
ot, who resided here. Another monument stands on 
tha N. W. corner of the grounds near the road from the 



I I 



NEW WINDSOR. 129 

landino' to the hotel, upon a small liillock. It is a plain 
obelisk about 20 feet high, erected by Gen. Brown to 
the memory of Col. E. D. Wood, a pupil of the institu- 
tion, v.'ho fell leading a charge at the sortie from Fort 
Erie, on the 17th September, 1814. 

On the bank of the Hudson at the south eastern ex- 
tremity of the parade g^round, and several yards be- 
neath, is a spot called Kosciusko's garden, or Koscius- 
ko's retreat. It is the place to which the Polish patri- 
ot was accustomed to retire to study, and which was 
cultivated by his own hands. Though now neglected, 
the marks of cultivation are perceptible in the regular- 
ity of the walks and the arrangement of the trees. A 
more delightful spot for recreation or repose cannot be 
imagined, nor one more suitable as a retreat from the 
cares of the great world, or a sanctuary for unfortunate 
patriotism or persecuted virtue. 

PoLLOPEL Island is situated at the northern en- 
trance of the Highlands, 6 miles above Y/est Point. It 
consists of a mass of rock, and rises near the centre of 
the river, between Breakneck Hill on the east and But- 
ter Hill on the west. The altitude of the latter is 1 529 
feet — the former is 1187 feet in height, and contains 
the rock called the Upper Antimony's Nose. 

New-Windsor. Passing the Highlands, the pros- 
pect changes into a very agreeable contrast. The bay 
of Newburgh with the village of the same name, and 
New-Windsor, and on the opposite shore the village of 
Fishkill, with its numerous adjacent manufactories and 
country seats, together with a view of the Hudson for 
many miles above, form a prospect which cannot fail 
to impart much interest. The village of New- Windsor 



130 KEIVBUROH. 

stands on tho marf^in of the river, 7 miles from West 
Point. It is calculated for a pleasant place of resi- 
dence, but in business it must yield to the rival vil- 
lage of 

Newburch. This is an incorporated village, situa- 
ted on the declivity of a hill on the west side of the 
Hudson, 10 miles north from West Point, and 84 south 
from Albany. It contains about 600 houses, and a 
population of about 4000 inhabitants. From its situa- 
tion it commands an entensive intercourse and trade 
with the country on the west, and, by means of the Hud- 
son river, with New- York. This place was for some 
time the head quarters of the American army during 
the revolutionary war ; and the " stone house" in which 
Gen. Washington quartered is still standing. On the 
opposite side of the river from Newburgh is Beacon 
Hill, one of the highest summits of the Fishkill moun- 
tains, where parties of pleasure frequently resort, in the 
summer season, to witness an extent of prospect inclu- 
ding a part of the territories of five different states. 
This hill is 1471 feet in height. Half a mile south is 
the New Beacon, or Grand Sachem, 1685 feet above 
the level of the Hudson. They are called Beacon Hills, 
from the circumstance that beacons were erected on 
their summits during the revolutionary war. The con- 
tinuation of this chain of mountains is lost in the Ap- 
palachian Range on the north east, and extends south 
as far as the eye can reach. Diminished in distance, is 
seen West Point, environed by mountains, apparently 
reposing on the surface of the Hudson, and bathing 
their rocky summits in the clouds. 



HYDE PARK LANDIKO. ISl 

MiLTOM, is a srnall hamlet, situated on the west side 
of the Hudson river, in the town of Marlborough, 1 1 
miles from Newburgh. This place is called the half- 
way place between New- York and Albany, being 72J 
miles distant from each. Two and a half miles south 
of Milton, on the east side of the Hudson, is the man- 
sion house of the late Gov. George Clinton. 

PouGHKEEPSiE, 15 miles north of Newburgh, is sit- 
uated one mile east from the Hudson, on the post 
road from Albany to New- York, and was incorporated 
in 1801. The village is about the same size of New- 
burgh, handsomely located, and a place of considerable 
trade. It is laid out in the form of a cross, the two prin- 
cipal streets crossing each other at right angles. A 
road leads down a long steep hill from Poughkeepsie to 
the landing on the Hudson river. This landing is 3 
miles above Milton, About 5 miles farther north is 

Hyde Park Landing, on the east side of the Hud- 
eon river, near which are a number of country seats. 
The first is the mansion of Judge Pendleton— one mile 
farther is the seat of H. Wilkes, Esq.— from thence 3 
miles up the fiver, was the former residence of Gen- 
eral M.Lewis, whose house was recently destroyed by 
fire. There is here a landing place, leading to Staats- 
berg, one mile distant, in the town of Hyde Park. Two 
miles farther north is the residence of R. Tillotson, Esq. 
Prom thence to E-hinebeck Landmg is 3 miles,* near to 



* Near this place, on the west side of the river, is the 
commencement of the Delaware and Hudson canal. It 
extends in a south-westwardly direction to the forks of 

l2 



132 CATSKILL. 

which is the residence of Doct. David Kosack — thence 
to Redhook Lower Landing, where are the mansions 
of J. R. Livingston and W. Radchff, is 7 miles — thence 
to -Redhook Upper Landing, 3 miles, where is the 
residence of John S. Livingston — thence 2 miles to the 
seat of the late Chancellor Livingston — thence 7 miles 
to the manor house of the late Lord Livingston — 
thence one mile to Oakliill, the residence of Harmon 
Livingston, Esq. — thence one mile to 



Catskill. This village takes its name from a large 
creek which flows througlr it, and empties into the 
Hudson at that place. It is situated on the west bank 
of the river, 32 miles from Albany, and contains about 
300 dwellings, and a population in the entire town of 
nearly 5000 inhabitants. On Catskill creek are already 
a number of mills and manufactories,' and the general 
appearance of the village is highly flattering, as it re- 
spects its future growth and prosperity. This village is 
in the immediate neighborhood of the Katsbergs or Cats* 
fci/^ mountains, which are seen for many miles along 
the Hudson, and here assume a truly majestic and sub- 
lime appearance. The highest elevation of this range 
of mountains is in the county of Greene, from 8 to 12 
miles distant from the river, including the Round Top, 



the Dyberry on the Lackawaxen river, Pennsylvania^, 
distance 103 miles, lockage 1438 feet. It was origi- 
nally inleuded by the company to have extended this 
canal to Keen's pond, 13 miles from its present termi- 
nation, but it has been abandoned and a rail road substi- 
tuted, which extends 3 miles west of Keen's pond to 
the Antliracite coal nunes of Pennsylvania, 



PINR ORCHIRD. 133 

3804 feet, and High Peak, 3718 feet in height. The vil- 
lage of Catskill, wiiich has hitherto been visited princi- 
pally by men of business, has recently become the re- 
sort of people of fashion and pleasure, who design a 
tour to the 

Pine Orchard, a place which, for several years past, 
has attracted the attention of all classes of men, and 
still continues to draw to it numbers of those who are 
fond of novelty, and especially of the sublime and ro- 
mantic scenery in which it abounds. Regular stages 
leave Catskill foT the Pine Orchard twice a day. The 
fare is the moderate price of one dollar. The whole 
distance is 12 miles, computed as follows: Fiom the 
village to Lawrence's tavern, 7 miles — from thence to 
the foot of the mountain, 2 miles — from thence to Pino 
Orcha.rd, 3 miles. This distance is passed, in going, in 
about 4.hours — in" returning, in about 2 hours. The 
countrv through which the road passes has nothing in- 
tercsting in its appearance, until it reaches the moun- 
tain, being generally uneven and barren, and diversi- 
fied with but one- or two comparatively sinall spots of 
cultivation, upon wh;ch the eye caft rest with satisfac- 
tion. A short time is usually taken up at Lawrence's, 
for the piu'pose of refreshment, before encountering the 
rugged ascent of the mountains. This part of the road 
is generally good, but circuitous, and often passes on 
the brink of some deep ravine, or at the foot of some 
frowning pecipice, inspiring at times an unw^elcome de- 
gree of terror. The rock upon which stands the hotel 
forms a circular platform, is of an uneven surface, and 
includes about six acres. It is elevated above the Hud- 



134 PINE ORCHARD, 

son upwards of 2200 feet.* The Hotel is HO feet in 
length, 24 feet in width, and 4 stories high, and haa pi- 
azzas in front the w'hole length, and a wing extend- 
ing in the rear for lodging rooms. The building is 
owned by the " Catskill Mountain x^ssociation," an in- 
corporated company, with a capital of $10,000. It is 
well furnished, and possesses every convenience and' 
accommodation requisite to the comfort and good cheer 
of its numerous guests. The prospect from Pine Or- 
chard embraces a greater extent and more diversity of 
scenery than is to be found in any other part of the 
state, or perhaps in the United States. The vast vari- 



* Capt. Patridge, who visited the Catskill moun- 
tains in 1828, made the following^ barometrical obser- 
vations : 

Altilude of the Mountain House, at the Pine Or- 
chard, above the surface of the Hudson river at Cats- 
kill village, 2212 feet. ~ 

Do. of the same above the seite of Lawrence's tav- 
ern, 7 miles ffom Catskill, 1882 feet. 

Do. of the same above the turnpike gate at the foot of 
the mountain, 1574 feet. 

Do. of the same above Green's bridge, 947 feet. 

The foregoing results were derived from a series of 
barometrical and therm o metrical observations, made on 
the 17th July, 1828. The altitude of the Mountain 
House, as above stated, was the result ol two distinct 
series of observations, made in going from the Catskill 
village to the house, and returning from the same to the 
village. The ascending series gave an altitude of 2223 
feet, and the descending series an altitude of 2203 feet. 
The mean of these two^xtremes gives 2212 feet. This 
result Capt. P. considered as a very near approximation 
to the true altitude. 



j ATHENS. 135 

ety of fields, farms, villages, towns and cities between 
; the green mountains of Vermont on the north, the high- 
lands on the south, and the Tasrhkanick mountains on 
the east, together with the Hudson river, studded with 
islands and vessels, some of which may be seen at even 
the distance of 60 miles, are apparent in a clear atmos- 
phere to the naked eye ; and when the scene is gradu- 
ally unfolded, at the opening of the day, it assumes rath- 
er the appearance of enchantment than a realit5% It is 
not uncommon, at this place, to witness storms of snow 
and rain in their seasons, midway the mountain, M'hilo 
all is clear and serene on its summit. About two miles 
from the Hotel, are the Kaaterskill Falls, which 
take their name from the stream on which they are sit- 
uated. This stream takes its rise from two small lakes, 
half a mile in the rear of the Hotel ; and after a wester- 
ly course of a mile and a half, the waters fall perpen- 
dicularly 175 feet, and after pausing a moment on a 
projection of the rock, plunge again down a precipice of 
85 feet more, making the whole descent of the falls 260 
feet. The road to the falls is extremely rough ; but 
this objection will hardly deter the traveller from a visit 
to a spot so novel and romantic. 

Athens, five miles above Catskill, is an incorporated 
villacre, and contains about 1000 inhabitants. Its situa- 
tion, on a gentle slope of land, rising gradually from 
the river, gives it a very favorable appearance. The 
vicinity of Athens to Hudson, immediately opposite, 
seems to forbid that importance in. point of trade, its lo- 
cation might otherwise warrant. Athens furnishes a 
number of beautiful scites on the bank of the river ; 



138 HUDSON — COXSACKIE LANDING. 

some of which are already occupied by the elegant 
mansions of private gentlemen. 

The City of Hudson stands on the east side of the 
river, 27 miles south from Albany. The plain on which 
Hudson is situated rises abruptly from the river, by 
banks from 50 to 60 feet in height ; and terminates on 
the east, at the foot of high lands, which overlook the 
city at an elevation of some hundred feet, and furnish 
a prospect of the Hudson river and scenery for many 
miles in extent. The city contained in 1830, 5392 in- 
habitants, and is daily increasing in wealth, population 
and commerce. Claverack creek on the east, and Kin- 
derhook creek on the north, afford every facility for 
mills and manufactories, in which Hudson abounds ; 
and which have entitled it to the third rank, in manu- 
factures, in the state. On the opposite side of the Hud- 
eon appear a number of country seats -with the farm 
houses and cultivation in the neighborhood of Athens 
and Catskill, bounded by the lofty Katsberghs, rising in 
the back ground and mingling their rugged summits 
with the clouds. 

CoxsACKiE LANDING, whcrc are several houses and 
stores, is eight miles north of Hudson. From thence 
to Kindcrhook landing is 1 mile. Here are about 25 
dwellings and a post office. The village of Kinder- 
hook is situated 5 miles east. Five miles further north, 
is the village of New-Baltimore ; thence to Coeymans, 
2 mil^s — thr>nce to Schodac village, 2 miles — thence to 
Castleton landing, 2 miles — thence to Albany 8 miles. 



ALBAXT, 137 

ALBANY 

Is the capital of the state of New- York, and in pornt 
of wealth, population, trade and resources, is the sec- 
ond city in the state, and the sixth or seventh in the 
Union, It is situated on the west side of the Hudson 
river, and near the head of tide water. It was settled 
in 1612; and next to Jamestown in Virginia, is the 

* oldest settlement in the U. S. In 1614, a small fort 
and trading house were built by the Dutch on an isl- 
and half a mile below the scite of the present city ; and 
soon afterwards fort Orange, where the city now stands. 
The place was first called Aurania ; then Beverwyck, 
till 1625 ; then Fort Orange till 1647, and Williamstadt 
till 1634, For a long time after its foundation it was 
enclosed with palisadoes or pickets, as a defence against 

I the Indians, who were then numerous and powerful in 
its vicinity. Its charter was granted in the year 1636, 
and embraced an area of 7160 acres. A great propor- 

L lion of its soil is sandy and unproductive, and under no 
system of useful cultivation. 

Though the first appearance of this city is not 
prepossessing to a stranger, still the taste which has 
been displayed in the construction of its public and 
private buildings — the constant din of commercial bu- 
siness which assails the ear of the traveller — the termi- 
nation of the Erie canal and the Mohawk and Hudson 
rail road at tliis place, and many other attendant cir- 
cumstances, render Albany an important and interest- 

' ing spot. 

The town is divided into five wards, and contains 
many superb and elegant buildings. The principal 



133 ALBANT. 

streets are Market, Pearl, and State streets. The two 
former run parallel with the river, and the latter is a 
spacious one, extending from the Capitol to the Hud- 
son, nearly east and west. Besides these, there are 
many other streets, less considerable in extent, but 
populous, and crowded with shops and stores. 

The Capitol, which contains the legislative halls, 
the supreme and chancery court rooms of the state, 
the state library, and other apartments for public busi- 
ness, stands at the head of State street, on an elevation 
of 130 feet above the level of the river. It is a substan- 
tial stone edifice, erected at the expense of $120,000. 
It is 115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 feet high, 
consisting of two stories, and a basement of lOfeet. The 
east front is adorned with a portico of the Ionic order, 
having 4 magnificent columns, 3 feet 8 inches in diam- 
eter, and 33 feet in height. In the senate and assembly 
chambers and in the room used for holding the court of 
chancery are full length portraits of Washington, of the 
various executives who have administered the govern- 
ment of the state, and of Abraham Van Vechten, Esq. 
an eminent counsellor at law residing in Albany. 
There is also in the senate chamber a good bust of Doct. 
Franklin. 

The Public Square, on the S. W. of which stands 
the Capitol, is arranged in the style of a park, is sur- 
rounded by a costly iron fence, and has several delight- 
ful walks and avenues. 

North of the Capitol stands the Academt, one the 
most elegantly constructed buildings in the city. It 
cost about ,$92,000 exclusive of the lot on which it is 
erected, and some donations. It is built of free stone, 



▲ LBANf. 139 

3 stories in height, and 90 feet in front. It is one of 
the most flourishing institutions in the state; has 5 
teachers and about 140 students. 

The City Hall, fronting the foot of Washington 
street, and near the capitol square, is a costly edifice of 
white marble, displaying much taste in its structure, 
and is ornamental to the part of the city in which it 
stands. The dome is gilded, and is a conspicuous ob- 
ject at some distance from the city. 

The State Hall, for the offices of the secretary of 
state, comptroller, treasurer, surveyor-general, attor- 
ney-general, and clerk of the supreme court, is situated 
on the south side of State-street, nearly equi-distant 
from the Capitol and the foot of the street. 

There are in this city 5 banks and ]6 houses for 
public worship. Also a large brick building, for the 
Lancaster school, a theatre in South Pearl street, and 
an arsenal in North Market street. The museum is in 
an elegant marble building, owned by Messrs. Thorp 
& Sprague, at the corner of State and North Market 
streets, and is one of the best in the country. 

... 
Hotels. — The principal hotels in Albany, are the 

Eagle Tavern, South Market Street ; the Adelphi Ho- 
tel, Bement's Hotel, American Hotel, State Street ; 
Congress Hall, Capitol Square ; Mansion House, City 
Hotel, and Temperance House, North Market street. 
These are all first rate establishments, elegantly fur- 
nished and well kept. 
I On a less expensive scale, are the Fort Orange Ho- 
tel, Columbian Hotel, Exchange Coffee House, and 



140 ALBANl. 

Montgomeiy Hall, South Market st. ; and tlic Frank- 
lin House, State street. 

During the sessions of the New- York legislature, 
Albany is crowded with strangers, and contains much 
of the legal talent and learning of the state. The city 
is eligibly situated for trade, being the great thorough- 
fare for the northern and western sections of the coun- 
try. 

The Albany Basin, where the waters of the canal 
unite with the Hudson, consists of a part of the river 
included between the shore and an artificial pier erect- 
ed 80 feet in width and 4,300 feet in length. The pier 
contains about 8 acres, and is connected with the city 
by draw bridges. It is a grand and stupendous work, 
on which spacious and extensive stores have been erect- 
ed, and where an immense quantity of lumber and oth- 
er articles of trade are deposited. Its original cost was 
$130,000, and the different lots were sold at public auc- 
at a considerable advance. The basin covers a surface 
of 32 acres. 

A mineral spring was discovered in Albany a few 
years since, by boring through a ,slate rock to the depth 
of 500 feet. The partners in this, however, having dis- 
agreed, one of them (McCulloch, a Scotchman) com- 
menced boring on his own account, in the same neigh- 
borhood, and at the depth of 617 feet struck upon an- 
other, much superior in its qualities. It contains a large 
quantity of muriate of soda, and is an active cathartic. 
The spring is enclosed in a handsome garden, and is a 
place of fashionable resort for citizens and strangers. 



AT.BANY. 141 

EXCURSIONS. 

The environs of Albany are pleasant, affording many 
d olightful walks and rides, and the adjacent cities of 
Troy and Schenectady, and the villages of Lansing- 
burgh and Waterford, the Cahoes Falls, the Shaker 
settlement at Niskayuna, &c. furnish points for short 
and interesting excursions. 

On the road to Troy, the first object vv'hich usually 
attracts the attention of the tourist is the mansion of 
Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer, the patroon of the 
manor of Rensselaerwick,* which stands at the north- 
ern extremity of Albany, and which is one of the most 
elegant situations in the United States. The munifi- 
cence and liberality of its opulent and distinguished 
proprietor are proverbial. There are few charitable 
or scientific institutions in the state of which he is not 
a benefactor ; and he has probably contributed more 
than any other citizen towards the fostering of agricul- 
tural and liierary improvements. 

The McAdamized Road between xllbany and Wa- 
tervliet, opposite Troy, -commences at this place. It 
runs parallel with the Erie canal, near its western bank, 
is between 5 and 6 miles long, of a width sufiicient for 
three carriages to run abreast, and is one of the most 
elf^gant roads on the continent. The vales and hills 
through which it passes have been sufficiently elevated 
or depressed to afford either a level or a very moderate 



'■* This manor coiriprisrs a <ireat portion of the coun- 
ties of Albany and Rensselaer — the city and several 
patents excepted. 



142 V. S. ARSENAL. 

inclination ; so that the speed of a carriage over the 
whole is uninterrupted. It is the property of an incor- 
porated company, who have expended between $90,000 
and y$ 100,000 in its construction. 

Five miles from Albany is the U. S. Arsenal, con- 
sisting of handsome brick and stone buildings, beau- 
tifully located on the western bank of the Hudson. 
There is here a large quantity of arms and munitions 
of war, with workshops for repairing them, manufac- 
turing locks, &c. The muskets, bayonets, swords and 
pistols are arranged in a portion of it with great taste 
and kept in fine order. Among the cannon in the yard 
are four 12 pounders, one 24, and one howitzer, taken 
at Saratoga ; four 12's and one howitzer, taken at York- 
town ; two long antique pieces and one eight inch mor- 
tar, taken at Stoney Point ; two old French 4 pounders 
and 14 guns, sent by Louis XVI. to the continental 
congress in the revolution — all of brass, and most of 
them highly ornamented, with each an individual name 
and the inscription "ultima ratio regium." There are 
also three or four howitzers cast in New- York and 
Philadelphia in the revolution, some of the oldest spe- 
cimens of this manufacture in the country, and bearing 
the initials U. C. for United Colonies. 

Haifa mile farther is the village of Watervliet, or 
rather from the Arsenal to and including West Troy or 
Port Schuyler, is a continuous village, which has rap- 
idly increased within a short period. 

From Watervliet, there are two routes to Watei-ford ; 
one leading through Troy and Lansingbnrgh, and the 
other by the Junction of the Erie and Noithern canals 



<1TT OF rnoY. H3 

and the Cahoes falls ; one of wliich can be taken in 
going from, and the other in returning to Albany. 

Tke Troy and Lansingburgh route. 
The Hudson, which is here about one fourth of a mile 
I Mwde, is crossed in a horee ferry-boat from Watervliet 
I to the 



CiTT OF Trot. It is bounded on the east by a range 
I of hills rising abruptly from the alluvial plain on which 
. the city is situated, extending. to the Kudpon river. In 
point of location and beautiful natural scenery, Trov is 
exceeded by few, if any, of the towns and villages on 
the Hudson. The streets, runuinsr north and south, 
converge together at the north end of the city, and are 
crossed at right angles by those running east and west. 
The buildings are principally built of brick, and are 
shaded by rows of trees on each side of the streets 
j which are preserved remarkably clean, by additions of 
; slate and gravel, instead of pavements. The city con- 
tains three banks, seven churches, a court house, jail 
; and market. The Episcopal church is a superb speci- 
men of Gothic arcliitecture, probably not exceeded in 
the United States. It has a venerable and imposing 
: appearance, and needs nothing but a quantity of moss 
and ivy to make it the picture of one of those ancient 
abbeys so often to be met with in the writings of Sir 
Walter Scott. A large three story brick building has 
also been erected at the expense of the corporation, for 
the accommodation of the female seminary incorporat- 
ed at this place. This institution is under the govern- 
ment of a female principal (Mrs. Willard) and several 
assistants, whose exertions have given it a deserved 

I m2 



Hi LANS1NC:EUE.GH WATEfiFOUD. 

celebrity over similar institutions in the state. There 
are annually educated at this seminary from 60 to 80 
females. The friends of literature have also establish- 
ed a Lyceum at this place ; w^hich, though of recent 
origin, promises much advantage and usefulness to its 
patrons. The population of Troy in 1830, was 11,605. 

Mount Ida, in the rear of Troy, is a romantic spot, 
affording a very extensive prospect of the Hudson river 
and the adjacent country. 

About a mile above the city, a dam has been thrown 
across the river, and a lock constructed, affording a 
sloop navigation to the village of Waterford. 

One mile and a half from Troy is the Rensselaer 
school, which was established by, and is under the pat- 
ronage of Gen. Stephen Van Rensselaer. It is a valu* 
able and flourishing institution. 

Lansixgburch, three miles from Troy, is principally 
built on a single street, rimning parallel with the river. 
A high hill rises abruptly behind the village, on which 
is seen the celebrated diamond rock, which at times 
emits a brilliant lustre from the reflected rays of the 
sun. The appearance of Lansingburgh by no means 
indicates a high state of prosperity, though it contains 
several very handsome private residences. The village 
has a bank, two places of public worship, and an acad- 
emy. Its population in 1830, was 26G3. About a mile 
north, a well built and handsome bridge extends across 
the Hudson river to the village of 

Waterford. This village is situated at the junc- 
tion of the Mohawk with the Hudson, and derives con- 



COMOSS FALLS. H5 

■eldcrable importance from the navigation of small ves- 

«cls, which, by means of the lock and dam below, at 
j sinost seasons of the year arrive and depart to and from 

its docks. The village contained in 1830, a population 
j lof 1473 inhabitants. It enjoys many advantages for 
I 4rade, and its importance is much increased by the 

northern canal, which communicates with the Hudson 

river at this place. 

The Junction and Cohoes route. 
From Waterv'liet to Waterford, by the Cohoes falls, 

: the distance is about the same as by Troy, (4 miles.) 
West Troy or Port Schuyler, which may be consider- 
ed a continuation of Watervliet, owes its origin and 
growth to the Erie canal, which passes through the vil- 
lage, and from which there is a side cut to a basin in 
the river. 

The Junction of the Erie and Northern canals is 

f Jtwo miles farther. Here, within the space of three 
quarters of a mile, are 17 locks ; and the number of 
boats constantly passing through, present a spectacle 
of activity and business of a novel character, to one 
who has never witnessed canal navigation. The locks 
are of the best workmanship, and are justly ranked 
among the most important works on the canal. About 
a mile farther, the Mohawk river is crossed by an ex- 
cellent bridge in full view of the 

Cohoes Falls, which are a short distance above. 
The perpendicular fall is about 40, and including the 
descent above, about 70 feet. The lofty barrier of 
jrocks which confine the course of the Mohawk — the 



I'lG TAK srn*irx's island. 

distant roar of the cataract — the dashing of the watora 
as they descend in rapids beneath you — and the strik- 
insr contrast of the torrent with the solitude of the 
scenery above, contribute to rendjsr the whole an unu- 
sua! scene of subhniity and gFandeur. An old tradition 
states, that a chief of the IMohawks attempting to cross 
in liis canoe, embarked too near the current of the falls 
to escape their descent. Finding himself unable to re- 
sist the influence of the current, which hurried him fast 
to the summit, with true Indian heroism, he turned his 
canoe into the streaixi, assninrd his station at the helm, 
and with a paddle in one hand and his bottle in the oth- 
er, was precipitated over the brink. It was in taking a 
view of these fallff, about 33 years since, that the poet 
Moore composed one of his best fugitive pieces. In- 
deed, the scenery and every thing connected with tliia 
interesting spot, are calculated to afford ample subjects 
for the poet and painter. 

Between this place and Schenectady, (noticed in a 
subsequent page,) the canal is carried twice across the 
Mohawk. The lower aqueduct, as it is called, 2| miles 
from the falls, is 1188 feet long, and rests on 2G stone 
piers and abutments — the other aqueduct, 12 miles fur- 
ther, is 750 feet long, and rests on 1(5 piers. These 
works were completed at great expense, and must have 
required immense labor. 

From the falls to Waterford (noticed at page 144) is 
one mile. 

Van Schaick's Island is situated in the vicinity of 
Waterford, and is formed by the sprouts of the Mo- 
hawk river joining with the Hudson river, 9 miles north 



SMATCER 5STTLEMENT. 147 

■of Albany. This spot is noted for being the head quar- 
ters of the American army in 1777 ; from whence they 
marched, in September of the same year, to the decisive 
'victory over Buvgoyne, at Bemus' Heights. 

The Shaker settlement at Niskayuna, is 8 miles 
north-west of Albany. A visit to these singular peo- 
ple is will deservinn- the attention of the traveller. The 
Shakers are the followers of Ann Lee, called by them 
Mother Ann, a religious enthusiast, who was born in 
England some time antecedent to the revolutionary 
war, and while yet in her youth, suffered much tribula- 
tion and deep exercises of spirit, in her conversion 
from the sin of this world to a state of greater perfec- 
tion. She endured severe trials and much persecu- 
tion, according to her own account, from her country- 
men ; but was afterwards favored with visions and 
an exhibition of miracles in her favor. Although in 
early life herself the v/ife of a poor blacksmith, the 
principal tenet of her creed is absolute and entire celib- 
acy, which is defended on variovis spiritual grounds, 
and full}^ set forth in a work recently published by the 
•society. In consequence of the persecutions experi- 
-enced by Mother Ann in England, she came to this 
country and established a small society which has been 
followed by the establishment of others, of which this is 
one. Her followers regard her memory with pious 
venf^ration, and consider themselves as the only people 
in possession of the true light. Some of the oldest and 
most perfect members, it is said, pretend to " speak 
with tongues," heal diseases by a touch, &c. The 
marriasre contract is dissolved on ioining their society : 



143 SHAREn SETTLEMENT, 

their association is a pei-fect community of goods, all 
private property being thrown into the common stock, 
and they profess to banish the love of ambition, wealth 
and luxury from their gloomy territories. 

They own at this place tv/o thousand acres of excel- 
lent land, laid out and kept in the order, neatness and 
cleanliness, which ahvays distinguish their sect. This 
is divided into four farms, or families, as they tire call- 
ed, occupied by about seventy-five persons each, of 
both sexes and all ages. They cultivate garden stuffs, 
seeds, &c. for sale, as well as every thing necessary for 
their own support, and they manufacture various use- 
ful and ornamental articles. These, as well as the sur- 
plus projJuce of the farm, are sold, and the avails de- 
posited in one of the Albany banks until required. 
The division of labor which they carry into practice, 
every occupation being entrusted to separate members, 
and their economical habits render their gains very 
considerable. The men work as farmers, carpenters, 
shoemakers, tailors, &c. ; the w^om.en at weaving, spin- 
ning, washing, cooking, and in the duties of the farm, 
making and mending clothes, the occupations of each 
sex being performed in separate buildings. They also 
eat separately, and neither of them will sit down to a 
meal with what the)'^ call the "world's people." The 
dress of the men is .the usual quaker drab, perfectly 
plain ; that of the w^omen grey, with white caps, all 
made as plain and easy as possible. They all have a 
peculiar wnlk, but especially the females, in conse- 
quence of their mode of worship, from which they de- 
rive the name of Shakers — a strange and disagreeable 
mode of dancing, accompanied with a monotonous 



SHAKER SETTLEMENT. I-IQ 

song. The young members of the community are reg- 
ularly taught the steps in this dance by the older ones, 
before they are permitted to join in public worship. It 
is usual before the admission of a member to all the 
privileges of the society, to impose a noviciate of three 
months, w^hen, if he so desires, he may leave them ; if 
not, he is regularly admitted a member, and throws his 
property into the common stock. 

Notwithstanding the severity of their discipline as to 
celibacy, it is said the harmony of their society was 
lately much disturbed in consequence of a "love affair." 
A young man and woman, both belonging to the soci- 
ety, in desp'te of the doctrines of their leader, fell from 
their estate of "single blessedness," and yielded to a 
worldly attachment. This heresy, as might be expect- 
ed, produced considerable commotion. The members 
wrestled with the tempter, and the elders prayed for 
and with the victims to the dreaded enemy of the sect ; 
but all to no purpose. They left the society and were 
married. It is creditable, however, to the members, that 
after finding their efforts to orevcnt this result unavail- 
ing, they sent the happy pair sufficient furniture for 
comfortable house-keeping, assigning as a reason that 
they had labored for the society, and that it was no 
more than justice to reward them.* 

Stages leave Albany daily for Lebanon Springs and 
Boston ; and 



* Since the foregoing event, we are told another de- 
reliction from the rules of Moth(?r Ann has taken place 
in the society, which also resulted in marriage. 



150 FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPUINCS. 

Steam Boats leave for New-York at 7 A. M. and 
4 P.M. 

FROM ALBANY TO SARATOGA SPRINGS. 
By Rail Road.* 
The distance from Albany to Saratoga Springs is 
36^ miles, as follows : 



Miles. 
From Albany to Bu- 

el's Farm, 3 

Schenectady, 12 



Miles. 

Ballston Lake, 10 

Ballston Spa,^ 5 

Saratoga Springs, ... 6| 



The route is by the way of the Mohawk and Hud- 
son and the Saratoga and Schenectady rail roads, the 
line being continuous to Saratoga Springs, and a pas- 
sage effected in about three hours. The carriages of 
the Mohaw^k and Hudson company start several times 
a day from the depot on the north side of State street, 
a little below the Capitol Square in Albany, and the 
trains on the Saratoga and Schenectady road are made 
to correspond therewith. By means of these improve- 
ments, a ride to the Springs, which was formerly tardy, 
and attended with clouds of dust and much fatigue and 
lassitude of body, now constitutes one of the greatest 
sources of novelty and pleasure in a visit to those cele- 
brated fountains of health. Freed from all care or ap- 
prehension of danger, the traveller glides through a 
a country diversified with much interesting scenery, 



* Since the completion of the rail roads, this is the 
usual route now taken from Albany to "Whitehall, 
Montreal, &c. the distance being about the same as by 
the old road, and the route being performed several 
hours sooner. 



MOHAWK AND HUDSON RAIL IIOAD. 151 

encountering in his course, from the rapidity of the mo- 
tion, a current of air sufficient to render even a sum- 
mer's sun agreeable, and finds himself at the far-famed 
Saratoga, ere he is aware that it is possible he can have 
overcome the distance in so short a space of time. 

The Mohawk and Hudson Rail Road, was com- 
menced in the summer of 1830, and a single track so 
far completed, that passengers were conveyed over 12^ 
miles thereof in one year thereafter. Since then, a 
second track has been made, and a branch constructed 
from State street in Albanv, which unites with the 
main road, about 2 J miles from the city. The main 
line commences on the Hudson river, about a mile 
south of State street, and crosses South Pearl street, 
under a fine stone arch of durable materials and hand- 
some construction ; from whence it passes up the 
hill with an inclination of one foot in eighteen until it 
reaches the summit, one hundred and eighty-five feet 
above the Hudson. At this place a building is erected 
which contains a double stationary engine, estimated 
at twelve horse power, which is used in hauling freight 
waggons up the plane. 

The road then proceeds north-westerly up to the 
head of Lydius street, and passes over two heavy and 
high embankments, and through two or three deep cut- 
tings near the alms-house. 

From the head of Lydius street, it proceeds in a per- 
fectly straight line, (with the exception of a small curve, 
which, with most people, passes unnoticed,) for 12 
miles, crossing the heavy embankment called the Buel 
viaduct, and ascending a plane for about three miles, of 
one foot in 225. Afterwards ascending by two or thi*ee 

K 



152 MOHAWK AND HUDSON RAIL ROAD. 

other planes of different points, and crossing several 
water-ways upon embankments, it proceeds to the 
Schene.tady summit. The asscent to this summit from 
the level of the Hudson is 335 feet. At this point, to 
which we have in imagination conducted our readers, 
a beautifulview is obtained of the canal, the Mohawk 
river, and the city of Schenectady. A double stationary 
engine is placed here and may thus be described : In 
the cellar of a house which is built on stone foundations 
across the road, and on the north side, are placed the 
boilers. The steam is conducted into two horizontal 
cylinders, firmly secured, 7 4 inches in diameter. The 
shackle bars are -connected with an axle, on the extrem- 
ity of which is a crown wheel, working in another at 
rioht angles, on a shaft placed vertically. This vertical 
shaft carries at its upper end, which is near the surface 
of the road and directly in its centre, a large wheel, 
around the circumference of which the hauling ropes 
pass, and run on rollers placed at regular distances 
down the plane. The plane overcomes a height of 115 
feet, with an inclination hke that near the Hudson, 
and running down a heavy embankment, strikes the 
Saratoga and Schenectady rail road and the Erie canal 
about half a mile from the principal street in Schenec- 
tady ; but the track is prolonged upon a level to State 
street, opposite Davis' Hotel. 

The soil through which the road passes is generally 
sandy. Some considerable elevations are cut through, 
and several ravines crossed. The slopes left by the 
cutting or formed by the embankment, are mostly cov- 
ered by sods. No setthng of the road has taken place 



BtTEL's FARM. 15S 

except to a very slight degree in some of the embank- 
ments, which is easily rectified. 

With the exception of the embankments, stone blocks 
are principally used to support the rails, which are Nor- 
way pine, plated with iron. The blocks rest on broken 
stone well rammed down in trenches ; and the entire 
workmanship of the road, which was under the direc- 
tion of J, B. Jervis, Esq. as engineer, is probably not 
surpassed by any construction of the kind in this coun- 
try or Europe. 

Passengers are carried upon this road in coaches, 
drawn by horses, and by locomotive engines. 

A part of the coaches are built like the common post 
coaches, pecuhar to our own country, carrying from 9 
to 12 passengers ; and a part are constructed some- 
what similar to those used on the Manchester and Liv- 
erpool road, accommodating from 18 to 24 passengers 
each, divided into apartments of six or eight. 

The entire cost of this road has been between eight 
and nine hundred thousand dollars. 

The Farm of Jesse Buel, Esq. is crossed by the 
rail road, about three miles from Albany. It consists 
of SO acres, has been wholly reclaimed from commons 
since 1818, and is now under profitable cultivation. 
Mr. B.'s improvements consist in selecting the best im- 
plements adapted to his soil — in substituting fallow 
crops for naked fallows — in extensively and successful- 
ly cultivating the Swedish and common turnip as a 
second crop, after clover and small grains — in introdu- 
cinw new and valuable grasses — in the cu'thation of 
live fences, which he has growing of the white Europe- 
an thorn, of the native thorn of our woods, and of the 



154 SCHENECTADY. 

three thorned or honey locust — and in the economy 
and apphcation of ordinary, and the use of new ma- 
nures. His object has been to grow only good crops, 
and these v/ith the least expense. In 1827, he sold 
from 64 acres in tillage and gTass, under farm culture, 
produce to the amount of more than $1500, exclusive of 
the consumption of a large family. His kitchen and 
flower gardens, abounding in the finest native and for- 
eign fruits, ornamental trees, shrubs and flowers, M'ill 
also ba visited with interest. Upon the same farm is the 

Albany Nursery, which is under the management 
of Messrs. Buel & Wilson. It already covers 1 or 12 
acres, and is extended annually, embracing not only 
the most choice American fruits and ornamental plants, 
but also the finer varieties of France, Germany, Eng- 
land, &c. many of which have been received from the 
London Horticiiltural Society, of which Mr. B. was 
elected a corresponding member in 1324. Attached to 
this establishment is a green house, containing an ex- 
tensive collection of beautiful exotics, among which 
are several varieties of the splendid Cornelia or Japan 
rose, and other rare Asiatic plants. There are few 
establishments of the kind, indeed, in the country, pos- 
sessing more interest, or entitling their proprietors to 
greater commendation. 

SCHENECTADY, 

Fifteen miles from Albany, and 21 J from Saratoga 
Springs, is situated on the Mohawk, a broad and beau- 
tiful river, which forms its northern boundary. It was 
burnt by the Indians 1690, and suffered a considerable 



SCHKNTCTAnT. 1.53 

conflagration in 1319, since which ev^nt the antique 
appearance of the city has been mnc}' improved by the 
introduction of modern architecture. The principal Ho- 
tel is kept by Mr. Davis, (formeily Given's,) in the 
south-east pa»t of the city and within a few rods of the 
Erie canal. The building is constructed of brick, 50 
feet fl'ont, and with its v.ing-, 2 stories high, exclusive of 
the basement story, extends back liiO feet. The main 
building is 3 stories in hei^jht, besides an attic story, 
containing an apartment for a a billiard room. From 
thi'=; elevated spot a view may be had of ths city and ila 
environs, of the rvIoHawk and of the canal for some dis- 
tance, and of the rich and variegated landscape which 
spreads on the south and west of the city. The Hotel 
can accommodate 130 guests ; and they receive every at- 
tention and accommodation that can cont ibute to their 
convenience and amusement. Union Collegs is built 
on an eminence, which overlooks the city and the Mo- 
hawk, for a number of miles. The college consists at 
present of two brick edifices, but the plan includes a 
chapel and other buildings hereafter to be erected, in 
the rear, and between those already constjuctcd. At 
this institution about 200 students are educated annu- 
ally. The expense per annum is $130. la numbers 
and respectability Union College may be ranked among 
the most favored seminaries in our country. A hand- 
some bridge has been constructed across the Mohawk, 
at the west end of the city, 997 feet in length, and is 
passed by the Saratoga and Schenectady Rail R.oad and 
by the stage on its route to Utica, 



n3 



156 SARATOGA AND SCHENECTADI RAIL ROAD. 

The city contains 2 banks, 2 printing offices, 6 
churches, a spacious and handsome city hall, and a 
population of about 5000 inhabitants. 

At Schenectady, stages and packet boats leave three 
times a day for Utica, the route to which is noticed in 
the subsequent pages of this work. 

The Saratoga AND Schenectady Rail Road com- 
mences on the north side of the Erie canal, in Sche- 
nectady, near the Mohawk and Hudson road, (with 
which it is connected by a bridge,) and extends across 
the city through an excavation about 12 feet deep, 
which is walled on either side, to the Mohawk bridge 
over the Mohawk river. A double track is made on 
the bridge, so that no interraption or inconvenience is 
experienced on the part of rail road or other passengers. 
From the bridge the road extends in a northerly direc- 
tion over an embankment, varying from 8 to 25 feet high, 
across the Mohawk flats, for three fourths of a mile, to 
a sand hill, which is cut through at a depth of from "SO 
to 40 feet. From thence the road pursues a north-east- 
erly direction, in full view of the Mohawk river, until it 
enters the valley of Eelplace creek ; when it curves 
and maintains a northerly course, passing along the 
elegant and verdant banks of the Ballston Lake, and 
enters the eastern part of the village of Ballston Spa, 
on a curvature of considerable extent. From this point 
the road passes in a northerly direction over the main 
street, on a bridge about 15 feet high, and by means of 
a heavy embankment, reaches the high grounds north 
of the village. From thence a north-easterly course is 
taken across the Kayaderosseras creek, over a sub- 
stantial bridge, and continues in a straight line, with 



SARATOGA AND BCHENKCTADT RAIL ROAD. 157 

the exception of two slight curves, to Saratoga Springs. 
It enters the latter place at the south-west part of the 
village, and runs for a short distance nearly parallel 
with the main street, when it curves up to the same on 
elevated ground immediately north of the United States 
Hotel, and in full view of the principal public establish- 
ments. 

The road is about 21^ miles long, and is over a re- 
markably level country, not requiring the use of sta- 
tionary power, and not having on any part an inclina- 
tion of more than 16 feet per mile. With the excep- 
tion of about 3 miles of stone blocks, near Saratoga 
Springs, the road is made of substantial and durable 
wooden materials, saving the iron rails. 

The ceremony of first breaking the ground was per- 
formed at Saratoga Springs, by the Hon. C. C. Cam- 
BRELENG, the President of the company, on the 20th 
of August, 1831, on which occasion a pertinent address 
was delivered by the Hon. Esek Cowen, and the work 
actively commenced about the 10th of September fol- 
lowing. The grading was well advanced in the au- 
tumn, and carriages placed on the road for the convey- 
ance of passengers on the 1 2th of July following. The 
entire cost of the road, including carriages, engines, 
fixtures, lands, &c. was about $270,000. 

The carriages are unusually elegant and spacious, 
and the travel has already much exceeded the public 
expectations. Indeed, little doubt remains of the road 
proving an advantageous and profitable investment to 
the stockholders ; for besides the ordinary summer trav- 
el to the Springs, which is annually increasing, and 
which this road will tend very much to augment, it ia 



158 BALLSTON SPA. 

likely to prove the great thoroughfare between Albany 
and the Canadas. One half of the distance from Alba- 
ny to VN7'hitr>hall on Lake Champlain, by this route, is 
overcome by rail road ; and the distance being about 
the same as by the old travelled road, and the time em- 
ployed in passing from one point to the other lessened 
by several hours, few travellers hesitate in giving it a 
decided pref3rence. 

Ballstox Lake, or Long Lake, as it is sometimes 
called, is 10 miles from Schenectady, the rail road pass- 
ing along its verdant and elegant banks. A farm house 
between the lake and road, owned by Mr. Elisha Cur- 
tis, and which he contemplates fitting up for the accom- 
modation of fishing parties, was formerly the residence 
of a Mr. M'Donald, the guide of Sir William Johnson, 
on his first visit to the mineral springs at Saratoga, in 
1767. Mr. M'D. was a native of Ireland, and on his 
first arrival in America, settled with his brother, in ] 763, 
on this spot, where he continued to reside until his de- 
cease, in 18 v3. Sir WilUam passed some days at this 
house at the time of the visit above mentioned. The 
lake is a beautiful sheet of water, 5 miles long and 1 
broad. The scenery around affords a pleasing land- 
scape of culi.ivation and wood lands, no less inviting to 
the sportsman than the soft bosom of the lake and its 
finny inhabitants to the amateurs of the rod. 

BALLSTON SPA 

Is 5 miles farther. The village lies in the town of 
Milton, in the county of Saratoga ; and is situated in a 
k>w valley, through the centre of which flows a branch 
of the Kayaderosseras, with whose waters it mingles 



EAM.STOX SPA. 15J 

at the east end of the village. The natural boundaries 
of Ballston Spa are well defined by steep and lofty hills 
of sand on the north and west, and by a ridge of land 
which gradually slopes inward, and encircles the vil- 
lage on the south and east. The broad and ample 
Kayaderosseras, whose stream gives motion to a neigh- 
boring mill, flows on the north-east boundary of the 
village, and furnishes a favorite resort for the sports- 
man on the bosom of its waters, or for the loiterer 
along its verdant banks. The village was incorporated 
in 1807, and is under the direction of a board of trus- 
tees, who are chosen annually. It contains 150 houses, 
and about 1000 inhabitants. Besides the court house 
for the county, and the clerk's office, which are located 
here, there is an Episcopal and a Baptist church, two 
prmting offices and a book-store, with which a reading 
room is connected for the accommodation of visitants. 
Ballston Spa principally derives its celebrity from 
the mineral springs which flow here and at Saratoga 
in equal abundance. The spring first discovered in the 
vicinity, stands on the flat, nearly opposite the board- 
ing establishment of Mr. Aldridge. It formerly flowed 
out of a common barrel, sunk around it, without any 
other protection from the invasion of cattle, who often 
slacked their thirst in its fountain. Afterwards the 
liberality of the citizens was displayed in a marble curb 
and fl.agging, and a handsome iron railing. The curb 
and flagging were finally removed, leaving the railing, 
which still serves the purposes of ornament and pro- 
tection. The spring flows now, probably, from the 
place where it originally issued, some feet below the 
surrounding surface, which has been elevated by addi- 



]60 BALLSTOK SPA. 

tiohs of earth, for tha purpose of improving tha road in 
which it stands. 

Near this spring, in borino: four or five years since, 
a mineral fountain called the New Washington 
SPRrN'G, was discovered at a considerable depth beneath 
the surface. Its qualities are somewhat similar to those 
of the spring last mentioned. 

The Sans Souci Spring is situated in the rear of the 
Sans Souci, and is considered the most prominent foun- 
tain in the village. According to an analysis of Doct. 
Steel, one gallon of the water contained the following 
ingredients: cloride of sodium, 143-| grs. ; bicarbonate 
of soda, 12i grs.; bicarbonate of magnesia, 39 grs.; 
carbonate of lime, nearly 6 grs. ; hydriodate of soda, 1^ 
grs ; silix, 1 gr. Near this fountain, a large and com- 
modious bathing house has been erected ; to which, 
not only the waters of this, but of a number of other 
adjacent springs, are tributary, for the purpose of bath- 
ing. Between the springs already mentioned, there was 
discovered in the summer of 1817, a mineral spring, 
called the Washington Fountain. This latter spring 
rose on the margin of the creek in front of the factory 
building ; it flowed through a curb 28 feet in length, 
sunk to the depth of 23 feet, and was liberated at the 
top in the form of a beautiful jef cPeau ; but the spring 
disappeared in 1821. Numerous attempts have since 
been made to recover it, but they have proved fruitless. 

Low's Spring is near the Sans Souci, and is very 
similar in its qualities and properties. 

The Park Spring is in the rear of the Village Hotel, 
and was obtained by boring to a depth of 270 feet. A 
copious stream flows therefrom, tastefully displayed in 



M 



BALLSTON SFA. 161 

I , 

' a small basin, secured at the top of the tube which con- 
ducts the Welter to the surface. The water, however, 
affords much less of the saline substances than either 
of the other springs. 

The principal ingredients of these waters consist of 
muriate of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, 
carbonate of magnesia, and carbonate of iron ; all of 
which, in a greater or less degree, enter into the com- 
position of the waters, both here and at Saratoga. 

The principal boarding houses are the Sans Souci, 
Aldridge's, the Mansion House, and the Village Hotel. 

The Sans Souci, with its yards and out houses, oc- 
cupies an area of some acres in the east part of the vil- 
lage. The plan of the building, with the extensive im- 
provements around it, do much credit to the taste and 
liberality of its proprietor. The establishment was for- 
merly the property of a Mr. Low. of New- York ; from 
I whom it passed into the hands of Mr. Loomis, its 
present owner, and under whose management the most 
entire satisfaction is given to its annual visitants. The 
edifice is constructed of wood, three stories high, 160 
fp-et in length, with two wings extending back 153 feet, 
and is calculated for the accommodation of 130 board- 
ers. It is surrounded by a beautiful yard, ornamented 
with a variety of trees and shrubbery, which, with its 
extensive piazzas and spacious halls, render it a de- 
lightful retreat during the oppressive heat of summer. 

Aldridge's Boarding house, with which is connect- 
ed an extensive garden, at the west end of the vil- 
lage, affords excellent accommodations, and receives 
a handsome patronage. Its more retired location, and 
the profusion of rural scenery around it, as well as 



16S BALLSTON SPA. 

the deserved reputation of the establishment, will al- 
ways determine the choice of a portion of visitants dur- 
ing their transient residence at the Springs. 

The Mansion House, kept by Mr. Seaman, is loca- 
ted immediately east of the rail road bridge which cross- 
es the main street. It is one of the best public houses 
in the country — is well furnished, and kept in a style 
highly creditable to its popular tenant. 

The Village Hotel, is in a convenient situation a 
few rods west of the Sans Souci. It is kept by the 
proprietor, Mr. Clark, and is in every respect an agree- 
able and pleasant boarding place, worthy of the patron- 
age of strangers. 

Mrs. M'Master's, is a private boarding house, sit- 
uated adjacent to the spring on the flat in the west 
part of the village. Those who are fond of a retired 
situation, will be much gratified at this place, and with- 
al will find a hospitable hostess, and very excellent ac- 
commodations, at a moderate price. 

The price of board per week, at the several houses, 
is from $3 to $3. 

Mails arrive and depart by v/ay of the rail road, to 
and from Ballston Spa, every day in the week. Be- 
sides a post office at the village, there is one in the town 
of Ballston, about three miles distant, to which letters 
are frequently missent, ovv'ing to the neglect of corres- 
pondents in making the proper direction. 

The reading room and library may be resorted to at 
all times, and for a moderate compensation. Papers 
are there furnished from all parts of the Union. The 
library, which includes some periodical publications, is 



•^ 



•) 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 163 

•email ; but valuable selections may be made, either for 
instruction or amusement. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS, 
Is situated north-easterly from Ballston Spa 6^ miles, 
and 36 i miles from the city of Albany. The village is 
located on an elevated spot of ground, surrounded by a 
productive level country, and enjoys, if not the advan- 
tage of prospect, at least the advantage of a salubrious 
air and climate, contributing much to the health and 
benefit of its numerous visitants. The springs, so just- 
ly celebrated for their medicinal virtues, are situated on 
,the margin of a vale, bordering the village on the east, 
a,nd are a continuation of a chain of springs discovering 
themselves about 12 miles to the south, in the town of 
Ballston, and extending easterly, in the form of a cres- 
cent, to the Cluakcr village. In the immediate vicinity 
are 10 or 12 springs, the principal of which are the Con- 
gress, the Hamilton, the High Rock, the Columbi- 
an, the Flat Rock, the Washington and the President. 
About a mile east, at the former residence of Mr. Tay- 
lor, are found a cluster of mineral springs which go by 
the name of the Ten Springs. 

THE CONGRESS SPRING 

Is situated at the south end of the village, and is 
owned by Messrs. Lynch &, Clarke ; to whose liberali- 
ty the public are much indebted for the recent improve- 
ments that have been made in the grounds adjoining the 
fountain, and the purity in which its waters are preserv- 





164 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

ed.* The spring was first discovered in the summer of 
1792, issuing from a crevice in the rock, a few feet from 
its present location. Here it flowed for a number of 
years, until an attempt to improA'e the surface around it 
produced an accidental obstruclion of its waters, which 
afterwards made their appearance at the place where 
they now flow. It is enclosed by a tube sunk into the 
earth to the distance of 12 or 14 feet, which secures it 
from the water of a stream, adjoining which it is situ- 
ated. 

From an analysis made by Doct. Steel, it appears 
that a gallon of the water contains the following sub- 
stances : chloride of sodium, 385 grs. ; bydriodate of 
soda, 3| grs. ; bicarbonate of soda, nearly 9 grs. ; bi- 
carbonate of magnesia, nearly 96 grs. ; carbonate of 
lime, a little more than 93 grs. ; carbonate of iron, up- 
wards of 5 grs. ; silix, l^ grs. ; carbonic acid gas, 311 
cubic inchco ; atmospheric air, 7 do. 

To this spring, perhaps more than any other spot on 
the globe, are seen repairing in the summer mornings, 
before breakfast, persons of almost every grade and 
condition, from tbe most exalted to the most abject. 
The beautiful and the deformed — the rich and the 
poor — the devotee of pleasure and the invalid — all con- 



+ Messrs. Lynch & Clarke are making airangementa 
to erect over this spring an elegant dome, to be support- 
ed by Dorick columns. The drawing of the plan, 
which we have seen, displays much architectuial syme- 
try and beauty, and when the erection shall have been 
made, it cannot fail of provins: highly ornamental and 
Acceptable to the numerous visitants at the fountain. 



SARATOGA SPUINGS. 165 

gregate here for purposes as various as are their situa- 
tions in lite. To one fond of witnessing the great di- 
versity in ttie human character, this place affords an am- 
ple field for observation. So well indeed, has it been 
improved by the little urchins w^ho dip water at the foun- 
tain, that an imposing exteiior is sure to procure for its 
possessor their senices ; while individuals less richly 
attired, and whose physiognomy indicate a less liberal 
disposition, arc often compelled to wait till it is more 
convenient to attend to their wants. 

Most persons soon become fond of the water ; but 
the effect on those who taste it for the first time is fre- 
quently unpleasant. To such, the other fountains are 
generally more palatable, having a less saline taste than 
the Congress. 

The High Rock is situated on the west side of the 
valley, skirting the east side of the village, about half a 
mile north of the Congress. The rock enclosing this 
spring is in the shape of a cone, 9 feet in diameter at its 
base, and 5 feet in height. It seems to have been 
formed by a concretion of particles thrown up by the 
water, which formerly flowed over its summit through 
an aperture of about 12 inches diameter, regularly di- 
verging from the top of the cone to its base. This spring 
was visited in the year 1767 by Sir William Johnson, 
but was known long before by the Indians, who were 
first led to it, either by accident or by the frequent 
haunts of beasts, attracted thither by the saline proper- 
ties of the water. A building was erected near the spot 
previous to the revolutionary war: afterwards abandon- 
ed, and again resumed ; since which the usefulness of 



166 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

the water has, from time to time, occasioned frequent 
settlements within its vicinity. 

The water now rises within 2 feet of the summit, and 
a common notion prevails that it has found a passage 
through a fissure of the rock occasioned by the fall of a 
tree ; since which event it has ceased to flow over its 
brink. This opinion, however, may be doubted. It is 
probable that the decay of the rock, wliich commenced 
its formation on the natural surface of the earth, may 
have yielded to the constant motion of the water, and at 
length opened a passage between its decayed base and 
the loose earth on which it was formed. This idea 
is strengthened from the external appearance of the 
rock at its eastern base, which has already been pene- 
trated by the implements of curiosity a number of 
inches. 

Betvv'een the Red spring in the upper village, and the 
"VVasliington in the south part of the lower village, are 
situated most of the other mineral springs in which this 
place abounds. At three of the principal springs, the- 
Hamilton, IXIonroe and Washington, large and conven- 
ient bathing houses have been erected, which are the 
constant resort for pleasure Jis well as health, during tlie 
warm season. 

The mineral waters both at Ballston and Saratoga 
are supposed to be the product of the same great laba- 
ratory, and they all possess iiearly the same properties, 
varying only as to the quantity of the different articles 
held in solution. They are denominated acidulous sa- 
line and acidulous chalybeate. Of the former are the 
Congress, (which holds the first rank,) the Hamilton, 
High Rock and President, at Saratoga ; and of the lat- 



Saratoga sfkinos. 167 

ter are the Columbian, Flat Rock and Washington, at 
Saratoga, and the Old Spring and Sans Souci, at Ball- 
Bton. The waters contain muriate of soda, hydriodate 
of soda, carbonate of soda, carbonate of lime, carbonate 
of magnesia, oxide of iron, and some of them a minute 
quantity of silica and alumina. Large quantities of 
carbonic acid gas are also contained in the waters, giv- 
ing to them a sparkling and lively appearance. The 
Congress, in particular, the moment it is dippped, con- 
tains nearly one half more than its bulk of gas ; a 
quantity unprecedented in any natural v/aters else- 
where discovered. 

Doct. Steel, in his geological report of the county of 
Saratoga, published a few )-ears since, remarks, that 
" the temperature of the water in all these wells is 
about the same, ranging from 48 to 52 degrees on Far- 
enhtWS' scale ; and they suffer no sensible alteration 
from any variation in the temperature of the atmos- 
phere ; neither do the variations of the seasons appear 
to have much effect on the quantity of water produced. 

" The waters are remarkably limpid, and when first 
dipped sparkle with all the life of good champaigne. 
The saline waters bear bottling very well, particularly 
the Congress, immense quantities of which are put up 
in this way, and transported to various parts of the 
world ; not, however, without a considerable loss of its 
gaseous property, which renders its taste much more in- 
sipid than when drank at the well. The chalybeate M^ater 
is likewise put up in bottles for transportation, but a 
very trifling loss of its gas produces an immediate pre- 
cipitation of its iron ; and hence this water, when it has 
been bottled for some time, frequently becomes turbid, 
o2 



163 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

and finally loses every trace of iron ; this substance fix- 
ing itself to the walls of the bottle. 

" The most prominent and perceptible effects of 
these waters, when taken into the stomach, are cathar- 
tic, diuretic and tonic. They are much used in a great 
variety of complaints ; but the diseases in which they 
are most efficacious are jaundice and billious affections 
generally, dyspepsia, habitual costiveness, hypochon- 
drical complaints, depraved appetite, calculous and ne- 
phritic complaints, phagedenic or ill-conditioned ulcers, 
cutaneous eruptions, chronic rheumatism, some species 
or states of gout, some species of dropsy, scrofula, par- 
alysis, scorbutic affections and old scorbutic ulcers, 
amenorrhea, dysmenoiThea and clorosis. In phthisis, 
and indeed all other pulmonary affections arising from 
primary diseases of the lungs, the waters are manifest- 
ly injurious, and evidently tend to increase the -violence 
of the disease. 

" Much interest has been excited on the subject of 
the source of these singular waters ; but no researches 
have as yet unfolded the mystery. The large propor- 
tion of common salt found among their constituent 
properties may be accounted for without much difficul- 
ty. All the salt springs of Europe, as well as those of 
America, being found in geological situations exactly 
corresponding to these, but the production of the unex- 
ampled quantity of carbonic acid gas, the medium 
through which the other articles are held in solution, is 
yet, and probably will remain a subject of mere specu- 
lation. The low and regular temperature of the water 
seems to forbid the idea that it is the effect of subterra- 
nean heat, as many have supposed, and the total absence 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 169 

■of any mineral acid, excepting the muriatic, which is 
combined with soda, does away the possibihty of its be- 
ing the effect of any combination of that kind. Its pro- 
duction is therefore truly unaccountable."* 

In addition to the spiings already enumerated, a val- 
uable SULPHUR SPRING was discovered a fewyears since 
in the vicinity of the Hamilton Spring, in the rear of the 
Congress Hall, It riseg from a deptii of about twenty 
feet, in a tube of about 4 feet diameter, and affords an 
ample supply of. water for the batliing estabUshment 



* An analysis of the waters of this place and at Ball- 
ston Spa was made and published by Doct Steel, some 
years since, and has received the sanction of the most 
scientific men in tlois country and in Europe; since 
which he has prepared and published an entire new 
work, embracing not only an analysis of the various 
springs and directions for their use in the numerous dis- 
eases in wbith they have proved beneficial, but also a 
fall and interesting history of their discovery, and of the 
rise and progress of the villages in which they are loca- 
ted. The literary attainments of Doct. S. and his great 
experience from a long residence at this place, have en- 
abled him to render this work far superior to any thing 
of the kind which has appeared. It ought also to be 
remarked, that no invalid should attempt the use of 
these waters without the direction of a physician well 
acquainted with their properties. A contrary course, 
under the too prevalent and erroneous impression that 
they niay be drank in all complaints, in any quantity, 
and at all hours of the day, has been attended in many 
instances with deleterious and sometimes with fatal 
consequences. There can be no doubt ^f their great 
efficacy in most complaints, when properly used ; yet 
ill-timed and too copious draughts not only fail of re- 
moving complaints, but frequently engender them. 



170 • SARATOGA SPniMQ^. 

with which it is connected. It has already proved high- 
ly efficacious in many cases of salt rheum, scrofula and 
other cutaneous eruptions ; and were it generally 
known, would undoubtedly be resorted to more frequent- 
ly by persons afflicted with these complaints. 

The boarding establishments of the first class at Sar- 
atoga Springs are the Congress Hall and Union Hall 
at the south end of the village, the Pavilion at the north, 
and the United States Hotel in a central situation be- 
tween them. Besides these, there are a number of oth- 
er boarding houses on a less extensive scale, the most 
noted of which are Montgomery Hall and the York 
House in the south part, and the Columbian Hotel and 
AVashington Hall in the north part of the village ; Pros- 
pect Hall, also, kept by Mr. Benjamin R. Putnam, is 
beautifully located about one mile north west of the vil- 
lage, and is a very respectable establishment. 

The Congress PIall, kept by Messrs. X & J. R. 
Westcot, is situated within a few rods of the Congress 
spring, to which a handsome walk, shaded with trees, 
has been constructed for the convenience of guests. 
The space in front of the building is occupied by three 
apartments, each of which is enclosed by a raihng, ter- 
minating at the front entrances of the piazza, and each 
used as a flower garden. The edifice is 200 feet in 
length, 3 stories high, besides an attic, and has two 
wings extending back, one 60, and the other about 100 
feet. The billiard rooms belonging to the establish- 
ment are contained in a building adjoining the north 
wing. In front of the Hall is a spacious piazza, extend- 
ing the whole length of the building, 20 feet in width, 
with a canopy from the roof, supported by 17 massy 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 171 

columns, each of which is gracefully entwined with 
woodbine. There is also a back piazza, which opens 
upon a beautiful garden annexed to the establishment, 
and a small grove of pines, affording both fragrance and 
shade to their loitering guests. The Congress Hall 
can accommodate from 250 to 300 visitants, and is just- 
ly ranked among the most elegant establishments in 
the union. 

The United States Hotel, also kept by Messrs. 
J. & J. R. Westcot, with its gardens and out buildings, 
occupies a space in the centre of the village of about 
five acres. The main building is composed of brick, 
125 feet long and 34 wdde. It is four stories high, and 
has a wing extending west 60 feet, three stories high. 
A building 34 by 60, appropriated to drawing and 
lodging rooms, has also been added on the south, and 
is connected with the main edifice by broad piazzas in 
front and rear, extending the whole length of both 
buildings. The ground in the rear and south of the 
hotel is handsomely laid out into walks, ternainating on 
the west in a garden belonging to the establishment, 
and the w^hole is tastefully ornamented with trees and 
shrubbery. The front of the edifice is enclosed by a 
delicate circular raiUng into three apartments, each con- 
taining a choice variety of flowers and shrubs, and 
shaded by a kow of forest trees extending the w^hole 
length of tlie building. The hotel is situated equally 
distant between the Congress and Flat Rock springs, 
and commands a view of the whole village, and from its 
fourth story a distinct view is had of the surrounding 
country for a number of miles. This establishment 
can accommodate nearly 200 visitants, and is one of 



172 SARATOGA SPRINGS. 

the largest and most splendid edifices in the United 
States. 

The Pavilion is situated in a pleasant part of the vil- 
lage, immediately in front of the Flat Rock spring. 
The building is constructed of wood, 133 feet in length, 
with a wing extending back from the centre of the main 
building, 80 feet. It is 2 1-2 stories high, with the ad- 
dition of an attick story, which, with the handsome 
portico in front, sustained l)y delicate colonades, ren- 
ders it, in beauty and proportion, one of the finest mod- 
els of architecture this country can produce. The large 
rooms of the Pavilion are less spacious than those of 
the United States Hotel or Congress Hall, but are so 
constructed that by means of folding doors the whole 
of the lower apartments may be thrown into one — an 
advantage which gives much additional interest to the 
promenade and cotillion parties, which frequently assem- 
ble on this extensive area. A large garden is connected 
with the establishment, and also a billiard rooni. The 
Pavilion is calculated for the accommodation of about 
1 30 visitants, though it frequently contains a much great- 
er number. 

The Union Hall is one of the earliest and most re- 
spectable establishments in the vicinity, and is situated 
directly opposite to the Congress Hall. ^It has, within 
a few years, been much improved in it* appearance, 
and enlarged by considerable additions to' the main 
building. It now presents an elegant front, 120 feet 
in length, 3 stories high, with two wings extending 
west 60 feet. It is ornamented in front by 10 col- 
umns, which rise to nearly the height of the building, 
and support Ihe roof of a spacious piazza. A gar- 



SARATOGA SPRINGS. 173 

den in the rear of the building, together with a beautiful 
flower garden on the north opening to the main street, 
are among the varieties which contribute to the pleas- 
antness of the establishment. It is now kept by Mr, 
W. Putnam, a son of the original proprietor, and ranks 
in point of elegance and respectability with the most fa- 
vored establishments in the vicinity. 

The Columbian Hotel, stands a few yards south of 
'' the Pavilion. Annexed to the establishment is a hand- 
some garden, lying on three sides of the building, which 
adds much to the beauty and advantage it enjoys in 
point of natural location. The well known reputation 
of this establishment, as well as its pleasant situation, 
j . in the vicinity of one of the principal fountains, w^ili al- 
ways ensure it a full share of patronage. 

The Washington Hall, owned and kept by Mr. I. 
Taylor, is beautifully located at the north part of the 
village ; and is patronized by strangers w^ho do not 
wish to mingle in tlie pleasures of the larger establish- 
ments. 

The price of board per week at the respective houses, 
is from $3 to $10. 

The Reading Rooms. There is in the village a print- 
ing office and bookstore, with which is connected a 
reading room, a mineralogical room and a library, un- 
der the superintendance of the same pi-oprietor. These 
rooms, a few doors north of the U. S. Hotel, are con- 
tained in the same building with the library and book- 
store, but have their separate apartments. T'lat ap- 
propriated for the reading room, is large and airy. It 
is ornamented with a variety of maps and charts, and 



174 SAEATOGA 8PR1SG3. j 

is furnished by the daily mails with about 100 papers, 
from different parts of the United States and from the 
Can ad as, besides several periodical publications. The 
mineralogical apartment is on the second story, to 
which stairs lead from the reading room. This apart- 
ment contains specimens of all the minerals discovered 
in this vicinity, together with a variety from different 
parts of the union, and from Europe. They are very 
handsomely arranged in glass cases, have been much 
augmented of late by Dr. J. H. Steel, of this place, to 
whom the proprietor is principally indebted for their 
collection and arrangement. An apartment adjoining 
the reading room, contains a library of about 2000 vol- 
umes, which are well selected, and receive constant 
additions from the most fashionable productions of the 
day. There is also kept at these rooms a register of 
the names of visitants at the Springs, their residence 
and places of board. The names thus entered fre- 
quently number from 6 to 8000 in the course of a 
season. 

These rooms afford a pleasant retreat from the noise 
and bustle of the boarding establishments, and are 
much frequented by ladies and gentlemen of taste and 
fashion. The terms are reasonable, and are scarcely 
an equivalent, considering the extent and usefulness of 
the institution. 

The mail arrives at the Springs every day by the rail 
"road, in from 16 to IS hours from New- York, and 
leaves every morning at 9 for Albany, intersecting with 
the Boston mail at that place. Strangers should be ap- 
prized that a post office is established in the town of 
Saratoga, about 12 miles distant, to which letters in- 



SARATOGA LAKE. 175 

tended for the Springs are often missent, in conse- 
quence of their mis-direction. 

At both the villages of Ballston and Saratoga Springs, 
there are always sufficient objects of amusement to 
render the transient residence of their summer guests 
pleasant and agreeable. Those whose taste is not 
gratified at the billiard rooms, which are annexed to 
most of the boarding establishtuents, can always enjoy 
a mental recreation at the reading rooms ; a ride on the 
rail road, carnages for which leave both villages seve- 
. ral times a day ; or a short excursion in the neigh- 
borhood, where sufficient beautyand novelty of scenery 
are always presented to render it interesting. The 
amusements of the day are usually crowned with a bail 
or promenade. The respective apartments appropri- 
ated for these occasions are calculated to accommodate 
from 150 to 200 guests ; but they often contain a much 
greater number. 

The spacious areas of the cotillion rooms are be- 
■: tween 80 and 90 feet in length, and when enlivened by 
the associated beauty and gaiety resorting to the 
springs, present a scene of novelty and fascination sel- 
dom equalled. 

About two, miles east from Saratoga Springs there is 
also a small fish pond, situated- on the farm of a Mr. 
Barhyte. Parties often resort thither as well to enjoy 
the amusements of fishing as to partake of a repast on 
trout, the proprietor resemng to himself the exclusive 
privilege of serving them up. Still farther east, about 
four miles from the Springs, is situated 

Saratoga Lake. This lake is 9 miles long and 3 
broad. A resort is constantly kept up at Green's and 

p 



17G BEMUg' HEIGHTS. 

at Riley's, on the western margin of the lake, the for- 
mer about four and the latter about six miles distant 
from Saratoga Sprine:^, and the same distance from 
Ballston Spa. The visitants at both villages frequently 
resort thither, to enjoy the advantages of air and pros- 
pect daring the months of July and August. Sail boats 
are here fitted up for the accommodation of parties of 
pleasure, and implements for fishing are always in 
readiness for those who take pleasure in this fashiona- 
ble diversion. The western shores of this lake are ac- 
cessible but in a few places, in consequence of the ad- ! 
jacent marshes ; on the east side the land is more ele- 
vated, and presents a fine prospect of farms under good 
improvement. Besides a variety of excellent fish, con- 
siderable wild game is found on the lake and marshes 
and along its borders. This lake is supplied with wa- 
ter from the Kayaderosseras creek, w'lich, taking ita 
rise about 20 miles in a northwest direction, and receiv-' 
ing in its course a number of tributary streams, flows 
into the lake on the west side. Fish creek forms its 
outlet, through which the waters of the lake are com- 
municated to the Hudson river about 8 miles distant, 
in an easterly direction. This creek empties into the 
Hudson river at Schuyler- Ville, noticed at p. 179. 

Beaitts' Heights, rendered memorable as the spot 
on which the British army under Gen. Burgoyne was 
defeated, in the revolutionary contest, are about 8 miles 
in a south-eastwardly direction from Green's on the 
Saratoga Lake. The battle ground is about two miles 
west of the Hudson river ; and though without much 
to attract in its location or surrounding scenery, will 
nevertheless at all times prove interesting Jrom its as- 



BEMUs' HEIQHTS. 177 

sociation with events which crreatlv contributed to the 
eatabUshment of American independence. 

The two actions wliich preceded the surrender of the 
British army were fought on the 19th of September, 
1777, and on the 17th of October following. On the 
morning of the 8th, the American ai-my marched into 
the Britisli camp, which had been deserted the evening 
previous. Tlie enemy continued to retreat till they had 
reached the height beyond the Fish creek, where they 
encamped on the 10th. Finding his retreat cut ofFby a 
party of troops, who had taken a position in his rear, 
and his advance impeded by superior numbers, General 
Burgoyne accepted the terms of capitulation, proposed 
by General Gates, and surrendered his whole army to 
the American forces, on the 17th October, 1777. The 
surrender took place at Fort Hardy, where the British 
stacked their arms, and were permitted to march out 
Vfith the honors of war. This fortunate event was fol- 
lowed by a succession of brilliant achievements, and fi- 
nally led to the surrender of Lord Cornwallis, which 
terminated the struggle of the revolution, after a period 
-of nearly 8 years from its commencement. 

Freeman's Farm, on which the principal actions 
were fought, is immediately east of the main road run- 
ning north and south, a road passing directly across it 
to the Hudson river in an eastwardly direction. In a 
meadow adjoining the first mentioned road, about ten 
rods south of a blacksmith's shop, and near, the fence, 
is the spot where Gen. Frazer fell.* A large bass-wood 

* General Frazer was second in command to Gen. 
Burgoyne, and died on the 8th of October, 1777, fiom 
wounds received in baltlo the day pre\'ious. 



178 Bi2MUS' HHIGHTS. 

tree marked the place for a time ; but having been cut 
down, several sprouts which have sprung up from the 
parent stock, now designate the spot. A fev/ rods di- 
rectly south of tliis, on a slight eminence, is shown the 
place where Col. Cilley sat a-straddle of a brass twelve 
pounder, exulting in its capture ; and about half a mile 
still farther south is shown the house, still standing, 
which was used by Gen. Qates as his head-quarters. 

In proceeding to the river, the hill on which General 
Frazer is buried is pointed out, about a mile and a half 
east of the battle ground, and 20 rods north of tlie road. 
His remains were deposited at Ms request, within a 
redoubt on the top of this hill. The redoubt, which is 
of an oblong form, from 100 to 150 feet in diameter, is 
still perfectly visible ; and the spot of Gen. Frazer's m- 
terment is near the centre. The British government, 
a few years since, employed an agent to erect a monu- 
ment to his memory ; but proving faithless,- he appro- 
priated the money with which he was entrusted to his 
own use, and returned without effecting the object of 
his mission, pretending his inability to discover the spot 
in question. It therefore continues undistinguished by 
a monument, or even a stone, to mark the place where 
repose the remains of this gallant warrior. 

Smith's House, in wdiich General Frazer died, and 
which, at that time, stood. near the foot of this hill, has 
been removed about 80 rods in a noith-eastwardly di- 
rection to the turnpike. It is a lx)w old fsshioned 
Dutch building, with the gable end to the river, paint- 
ed yellow' — the sides red, and shingle roof. The en^ 
trance is towards the river, under an old and dilapida- 
ted portico — and the whole bears the marks of antiqui- 



SCHUTLER-VILLE. 179 

\y — the only addition to it being a small out house. 
The room in which Gen. Frazer died is directly in front, 
and has undergone no material change since that period. 
About half a mile south from Smith's house, near the 
river, is the residence of Major Ezra Buell, who was 
in the army of Gen. Gates, and who has since contin- 
tied to reside on this interestinof spot. Though advan- 
•ced to the age of nearly 90, his memory is still good, 
and he yearly accompanies strangers in their excursions 
over the battle ground, pointing out to them the differ- 
ent scites on which the most important events trans- 
pired. Eight miles north of this, on the turnpike, is 
the village of 

Schuyler- ViLLE, noted as the residence of the late 
, Gen. Schuyler, and still more so as the place where 
'Gen. Burgoyne surrendered to the American army in 
October, 1777. 

The ground on wliich the surrender took place, was 
m a vale nearly east, and in plain view of the stage 
house on the turnpike in Schuyler- Ville, and still cx- 
Iiibits the remains of an entrenchment called Fort Har- 
dy. About 40 rods in a south-east direction, at the 
mouth of Fish creek, is the scite of Fort Schuyler. 
The arms of the British were stacked in the vale in 
front of Fort Hardy, and f^-om. thence they were march- 
ed to the high grounds a little west of the village, and 
admitted to parol as prisoners of war. At the south- 
ern extremity of the vale is a basin for the northern ca- 
nal, which passes tlirough this place. About half a 
mile south of the basin stands the house of Philip Schuy- 
ler, Esq. located near the spot where once stood the 
map.sion of his grandfather, the intrepid Gen. Schuyler, 
p2 



180 irORT EDWARD. 

which, with otlncr buildings, were burnt by the British 
army, on their retreat from the battle of the 7th. 

The village contains 70 or 80 houses, and an exten- 
sive cotton factory and machine shop, owned by Mr. 
Schuyler. 

Fort-Edward is 12 miles north of" Schuyler- Ville. 
It is not on the usual route of travellers from the 
Springs to Lake George ; but being a short distance 
only from Sandy-Kill, it maybe easily visited. The 
fort, once situated where the village now stands, has 
long since been demolished : though its former loca- 
tion is easily traced in the mounds of earth which are 
still visible. About 100 rods north of the village is a 
dam across the Hudson river, 27 feet high and SOO feet 
long, supplying with water a feeder to the Northern 
canal. The cost of this dam was $30,000. There is 
also a permanent bridge across the river a short dis- 
tance below. 

One mile north of Fort-Edward, on the west side of 
the road, the traveller is shown a large pine tree, with 
a spring near its foot, memorable- as the spot where 
Miss M'Crea was murdered by the Indians during the 
revolutionary war. She was betrothed to ,a Mr. Jones, 
an American refugee, who was in Burgoyne's army. 
Anxious for a union with his intended bride, he dis- 
patched a party of Indians to escort her to the Bntish 
camp. Against the remonstrance of her iriends, she 
committed herself to their charge. • She was placed on 
horseback, and accompanied her guides to the spring 
in question, where they were met by another party sent 
on the same errand. An altercation ensued between 
them as to the promised reward, (v/hich was a barrel of 



SAXDT HILL glen's CALLS. ISl 

rum,) and while thus engaged, they were attacked by 
the whites. At the close of the conflict, the unhappy 
young woman was found a short distance from the 
spring, tom?J=)awked and scalped. There is a tradition 
that her scalp was divided by the respective parties, 
and carried- to her agonized lover. He is said to have 
survived the shock but a short time ; and to have died 
of a broken heart. The name of Miss M'Crea is in- 
scribed on the tree, with the date 1777. Her remains 
were disinterred a few years since, and deposited in 
the church-yard at Sandy Hill. 

S^NDT Hill is two miles from Fort Edward, on the 
rotite from Saratoga Springs to Lake George. It is sit- 
uated on the margin of the Hudson river, immediately 
above Baker's Falls, about 18 miles from the Springs. 
A wooden bridge extends across the river at this place, 
from which the road leads up a precipitous ascent, on 
the summit of which the village is situated. The 
streets are laid out in the form of a triangle. In the 
centre is an open area, surrounded by handsomely con- 
structed stores and dwellings. The village contains 
upwards of 100 houses, and about 500 inhabitants. 
The courts of the county are held alternately here and 
it Salem. 

Glex's. Falls, a village of aboiU the same size of 
Sandy Hill, is 3 miles further up the Hudson river, on 
the direct route to Lake George. At this place are the 
celebrated falls from which the village takes its name. 
These are situated about | of, a mile south of the vil- 
lage, near a permanent bridge, extending partly over 
the falls, and from which the best view of them may 
be had. The falls are formed by the waters of the 



1S2 glen's falls. 

Hudson, which flow in one sheet over the brink of the 
precipice, but are immediately divided by the rocks into 
three channels. The height of the fails is ascertained, 
by measurement, to be 63 feet; though the water flows 
in an angular descent of 4 or 500 feet. Some rods bC'* 
low the falls, .is a long cave in the rocks, extending 
from one channel to the other. On its walls are in- 
scribed a variety of ntimes of former guests, who have 
thought proper to pay this customary tribute. The 
rocks, which are at some seasons covered with water, 
but at others entirely dry, are chequered with small in- 
dentations, and in many places considerable chasms 
are formed, probably by pebbles kept in motion by tho 
falling water. It is very evident that these falls, like 
those of Niagara, were once a considerable distance 
lower down the river — the banks below being compo- 
sed of shelving rocks, from 30 to 70 feet perpendicular 
height. On the north side of the river is a navigable 
feeder, communicating witli the Champlain canal. It 
commences nearly two miles above the falls ; and with 
the exception of about a quarter of a mile, which ap- 
pears to have been cut out of a shelving rock, runs 
along a ravine east of Sandy-Hill ; and intersects the 
main canal some distance below.* 



* Jessup's Falls, which are about 10 miles above 
Glen's Falls on the Hudson, are worthy the attention 
of travellers. The whole scenery is highly romantic and 
picturesque, and the descent of the falls, which are 
perpendicular, and embrace the whole river in an en- 
tire sheet, is nearly 100 feet. Five miles farther north 
are the Hadlet Falls, which are a succession of pitch- 
es over a rocky and uneven bed. The whole descent, 



CkEN's FALLS. 133 

Conveyances from Sandy -Hill, via Glen's Falls, to 

Lake George, may at all times be procured, for the 

M moderate fare of one dollar. From Glen's Falls to the 

Lake the distance is 9 miles over an indifferent road, 

r affording little other variety than mountains and forests, 

with here and there a rustic hamlet. Within 3h 

miles of Lake George on the right hand, and a short 

distance from the road, is pointed out the rock, at the 

■ foot of which Col. Williams was massacred by the In- 

i dians, during the French war. At the distance of half 

I a mile farther, on the same side of the road, is the 

s[ " Bloody Pond," so called from its waters having been 

crimsoned with the blood of the slain who fell in its vi- 

, cinity, during a severe engagement in 1755. It is said, 

that skulls are found in the neighborhood of this pond. 



commencing at the upper fall, is between 80 and 100 
feet. Over the lower fall a permanent bridge, about 50 
feet from the water, is erected. The river is, here con- 
tracted to a very narrow space, witliin lofty rocky em- 
bankments, between which the water rushes with great 
force and wildness into the basin below, uniting with 
the Sacondaga river, a large and rapid stream, wliich 
rises about 60 miles at the north-west. Both of these 
rivers abound wi'tli trout and other fish, affording ample 
employment for those v/ho are fond, of angling. The 
country here is extremely rugged and mountainous, and 
presents but litile appearance of cultivation. 

Travellers designing to visit these places, will find it 
the most convenient to taite a carriage at Saratoga 
Springs, from wliich to Jessup's Falls is l4 miles, and 
to Fladley Fails 5 miles further. The route is over a 
good road, and, including a visit of two or three hours, 
may be easily performed (going and returning) in a day. 



184 CALDWELL LAKE GEORGE. 

and that numerous others may be taken from the bot- 
tom. Three miles farther is situated the village of 

Caldwell, on the south western margin of the lake. 
This village contains a number of neat little buildings, 
and about 300 inhabitants. The Lake George Coffee- 
House is fitted up in good style, and can accommodate 
from 80 to 100 visitants. There are here, also, a post- 
office, a church, and a court house. The village is bor- 
dered on the east by a range of hills, to the highest of 
which, called Prospect Hill, a road has been made, and 
though difficult of ascent, the toil is richly compensated 
in the diversified and extensive prospect afforded from 
its summit. 

LAKE GEORGE 

Is situated but a short day's ride from the village of 
Saratoga Springs, (27 miles,) from whence an excur- 
sion to the Lake is considered as a matter of course. 
Indeed, there are few places where a greater variety oFj 
inducements attract the stranger than at Lake George. 
Besides the interest which is excited from an associa-j 
tion of many important historic events, this place is- 
rendered peculiarly interesting from the unrivalled ex- j 
hibition of the beautiful and romantic scenery present- 
ed by the lake and its environs. At the village of Cald- 
well the lake is about one mile in width, but it general- 
ly varies from | of a mile to 4 miles. The whole 
length is 36 miles. The waters are discharged into 
Lake Champlain, at Ticonderoga, by an outlet which, 
in the distance of 2 miles, falls 180 feet. 

Lake George is remarkable for the transparency of 
its waters. They are generally verj' deep, but at aa 



LAKE GEORGE. 135 

ordinary depth the clean gravelly bottom is distinctly 

visible. The great variety of excellent fish which are 

caught here, renders it a favorite resort for those who 

are fond of angling. The salmon trout is caught in 

I abundance, weighing from 12 to 20 pounds. The lake 

i is interspersed with a great number of small islands. 

I the principal of which, Diamond Island, once contain- 

' ing a military fortification, and Tea Island, on which is 

a summer House erected for the amusement of parties 

of pleasure, are visible from the head of the lake. The 

whole number of islands is said to equal the number of 

days in the year. 

The scenery on the borders of the lake is generally 
mountainous. With the exception of some intervals, 
checkered with fruitful cultivation, the land recedes 
from the lake with a gentle acclivity, for a few rods, 
and then, with a'bolder ascent, to an elevation of from 
500 to 1500 feet. The best view of the lake and its 
environs is had from the southern extremity, near the 
remains of old Fort George,* from whence the prospect 
embraces the village of Caldwell and the numerous lit- 
tle islands rising from the calm bosom of the lake, 
whose waters are beautifully contrasted with the paral- 
lel ridges of craggy mountains, through an extent of 
nearly fourteen miles. Near the southern shore of the 
lake are the ruins of an old fortification, called 



* A very good prospect is also obtained from the top 
of the Lake George House, to which a flight of stairs 
ascends; but one far better from Prospect Hill, pre- 
viously mentioned. 



136 LAKE GEORGE. 

Fort William Henry. Vestiges of the walls and 
out- works are still to be seen. Previous to its con- 
struction, the scite of the fort was occupied by the En- 
lish army under the command of Sir William Johnson^ 
who was making preparations for an attack upon 
Crown Point. Before any movement was made by 
Sir William, the French army, vinder the command of 
Baron Dieskau, marched from Ticonderoga for Fort 
Edward, but afterwards changing his pui-pose, he waa 
proceeding to the head of the lake, when he unexpect- 
edly fell in with a party of the English, who had been 
detached by Sir William for the relief of Fort Edward. 
A severe battle ensued, in wliich the English were de- 
feated, and compelled hastily to retire from the field. 
They were pursued into their intrenchments by the 
French army, who commenced a furious assault upon 
the English camp, but were repulsed with great slaugh- 
ter. The discomfitted Baron, on hrs retreat from this 
unsuccessful attack, was a third time engaged by a par- 
ty of English, who had been despatched by the garrison 
at Fort Edward, to succor Sir William Johnson, and 
totally defeated. These three several engagements 
took place on the same day, the 6th September, 1755, 
in the vicinity of Bloody Pond, into M^liich the bodies of 
the slain were afterwards thrown.. In 1757, Fort Wil- 
liam Hemy contained a garrison of 3,000 men, under 
the command of Col. Munroe. The Marquis de Mont- 
calm, after three attempts to besiege the fort in form, 
reinforced his army to about 10,000 men, and summon- 
ed Col. Munroe to surrender. This summons being 
refused, Montcalm, after a furious assault, obliged ths 
English to capitulate. The terms of the capitulation. 



<.ih 



LAEQ GEORGE. IS7 

though honorable to the English, were shamefully vio- 
lated by the Indians attached to the French army, who 
[ massacred the whole garrison, except a small remnant 
who made their escape to Fort Edward. The fort was 
razed to the ground by Montcalm, and was never after- 
wards rebuilt. This spot was the scene of embarkation 
, of General Abercrombic, who, in 1758, descended the 
I lake with an army of 15,000 men, for an attack on Ti- 
\ conderoga. About 80 rods farther south, on a com- 
manding eminence, are situated the vestiges of old 
Fort George. This fort, though not distinguished by 
any event of importance, yet in connexion with the his- 
; tory of Lake George, imparts an interest which a stran- 
f ger will readily embrace in a visit to its mouldering ru- 
f ins. A part of the walls, which were originally built of 
I stone, are still visible, from 30 to 40 feet in height. This 
fort was the depot for the stores of General Bur^oyne, 
for some time during the revolutionary wjar. 

The steam-boat Mountaineer usually performs a dail} 

trip on Lake George so as to intersect the boats running 

on Lake Champlain ; leaving Caldwell in the morning, 

I and returning at evening. The length of the Lake, on 

I which the boat runs, is 36 miles — fare $2. From the 

steam-boat landing to Ticonderoga is a distarice of 3 

. miles ; for which a conveyance is provided, going and 

• returning, for 50 cents each way. Refreshments are 

provided at a tavern, half a mile from the landing, after 

which parties usually proceed to the Fort, and return to 

the tavern the same evening, from whence they may 

take the boat on its return the next day to Caldwell. 

The Passage of Lake George cannot fail to im- 
part a great degree of interest, even to the most indif- 

R 



188 Lake george. 

ferenl observer. The Lake is interspersed with a gi-eat 
variety of islands, some of which are very small, but yet 
serve the purpose of diversifying the prospect. The 
smooth, green surface of the water is strikingly con- 
trasted with the bold and rugged shores of the Lake, 
which vary their distance from | of a mile to 4 miles 
in width, and occasionally rise to 1,500 feet in height. 
These circumstances added to the numerous historical 
associations which are continually suggested to the 
mind, and to the animation which a fair day and pros- 
perous passage are calculated to impart, serve to create 
impressions which must always be remembered with 
peculiar satisfaction. 

Ten miles from Caldwell, down the Lake, are a range 
of mountains possessed by a celebrated hunter of the 
name of Phelps, as a Deer Pasture. In the spring, 
when the vegetation of the previous year is sufficiently 
dry, he sets fire to the mountains. Subsequently, green 
and tender herbs springforth, and induce droves of deer 
to resort thither in quest of food ; by which means the 
hunter succeeds in killing hundreds annually. On the 
opposite side of the lake, at a very considerable eleva- 
tion, is the residence of a wealthy farmer of Bolton. 
Two miles further is Twelve Mile Island, being that 
distance from Caldwell. It is of a circular form, of 
about 20 acres, situated in the centre of the lake, and 
is elevated 30 or 40 feet above the water. From thence 
one mile, on the north-west side of the lake, is 

Tongue Mountain, with West Bat on its west side ij 
1 § mile wide, and extending in a northerly direction 
6 miles. What are called the Narrows commence here, 
and contmues for 6 or 7 miles, being | of a mile wide 



Lake geoege. 189 

and very deep. A line 500 feet long has been used in 
Bounding without reaching bottom. 

Black Mountain, 18 miles from the head of the 
Lake, is situated on the east side, and has been ascer- 
tained, by admeasurement, to be 2,200 feet in height. 
Opposite to Black Mountain, near the western shore, is 

Half Wat Island. A short distance north of this 
is some of the finest mountain scenery on the conti- 
nent. The mountains exhibit an undulating appear- 
ance, are thickly studded with pines and firs, and in- 
:. terspersed with deep and almost impenetrable caverns. 

I SaBbath-Dat Point, 24 miles from Caldwell, is a 
f projection of the main land into the Lake from the west 
; side. It is a place on which the English troops land- 
ed on the Sabbath during the French war, and is- the 
spot on which a sanguinary battle was fought with the 
Indians. The English, with no chance of retreat, were 
all killed. From thence, 3 miles, is a small island call- 
ed the Scotch Bonnet. Three miles further on the 
west shore of the lake, is a little hamlet called by the 
inhabitants the city of Hague, containing only two or 
three dwellings, and as many saw mills. The lake is 
here 4 miles wide, being its greatest width. From this 
place to 

Roger's Slide is 3 miles. This is celebrated as 
the spot where Col. Rogers escaped from the Indians 
during the French war. The descent is an angle of 
about 25 degrees, over a tolerable smooth rock, 200 
feet in height. The Col. who had been a great foe to 
the Indians, was nearly surrounded by them on the top 
of the mountain, and found no other means of. escape 



190 TICONDEUOGA. 

than to slide down this precipice. It being winter, and 
having snow shoes on his feet, he landed safely on the 
ice. The Indians afterwards saw hira ; but supposing 
that no human being could have made the descent, and 
that he must, of course, be supernatural,^ they concluded 
it not only useless, but dangerous to follow liim. 

Anthony's Nose, so called from its singular shape, 
is a high rock, nearly opposite to Roger's Slide. The 
shores here are bold and contracted, and exhibit mas- 
sive rocks, which are from 50 to 100 feet in height. 
From thence to 

Prisoner's Island, is two miles, a spot where pris- 
oners were confined during the French war; and di- 
rectly west of tliis is Lord Howe's Point, so called 
from being the place where Lord Howe landed imme- 
diately previous to the battle in which he w^as killed at 
Ticonderoga. He was a brother of the late Lord Howe, 
who commanded the British forces at Philadelpliia du- 
ring the revolutionary w^ar. The water here, from a 
deep green, assumes a lighter color, owing to a clayey 
bottom. From thence to the outlet of the' lake, which 
terminates the steam-boat passage, is onemile. Three 
miles further, over a circuitous and uneven road, in an 
easterly direction, is the fort and ruins of 

Ticonderoga. The point projects between the lake 
on one side, which here suddenly expands to the west, 
and the creek on the other, W'liich unites the waters of j 
lakes George and Champlain. On the opposite side 
of the latter lake, in a south east direction, stands 
Mount Independence. Mount Defiance, 720 feet in 
height, is situated across the creek directly west of] 



¥iCONDEROGA. i9i 

the Fort. This height was occupied by the artillery 
Cx^ General EurcrGyne in 1777, when the Americans 
: were compelled to evacuate Ticonderoga. The for- 
tress of Ticonderoga was first constructed by the 
French in 1756. The works appear to have been ve- 
ry strong, are elevated about 200 foet above the level 
of lake Champlain, and many of the walls are still 
standing. The magazine is nearly entire. It is 35 feet 
long, 15 feet wide, and 8 feet high, constructed under 
ground, of. stone, and arched. A subterraneous pas- 
• sage leads from the southwest corner of the works to 
the lake, 20 or 30 rods in length. Through this pas- 
sage Col. Ethan Allen passed when he took possession 
of the fort "in the name of the Great Jehovah, and the 
Continental Congress.'''' The remains of another forti- 
fication, built during the revolutionary war, are still to" 
be seen about 60 rods farther south on the point adjoin- 
ing the lake. The walls next to the lake a"re nearly 60 
feet in height. 

In 1758 Ticonderoga was attacked by General Aber- 
crombie, who was repulsed with the loss of 2,000 men. 
On the approach of Gen. Amherst, in 1759, it was quiet- 
ly abandoned by the French, as was also Crown Point. 
It continued in possession of the British until the year 
1 775, when it was taken by Col. Allen. On evacuating 
the fort in 1777, Gen. St. Clair ordered a detachment 
to accompany the American stores and baggage to 
Whitehall, where they were pursued by Gen. Bur- 
goyne and from thence to Fort Ann. At the latter 
place a smart skirmish ensued between the two parties, 
in which the British sustained a considerable loss. The 
main army retired from Ticonderoga to Hubbardton, 

r2 



102 EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 

where a party consisting of about 1,000 under Col. 
Warner, were overtaken by the Briti^h advanced guard, 
and after a severe action abandoned the field to superior 
numbers. From thence they joined General Schuyler 
at Fort Edward on the 12th July, 1777. 

From Ticonderoga, travellers inay be conveyed across 
the lake to Larrabee's, in Shoreham, Vermont, a dis- 
tance of one mile, where those designing a tour to 
Montreal and Gluebcc, may take passage in a Cham- 
plain steam-boat, for St. John's. The boat arrives at 
Larrabee's towards evening, and the passage from 
thence to Plattsburgh, with the exception of about 15 
miles to Crown Point, is generally in the night. At 
present the most usual arrangements of the tourist are, 
after visiting Lake George and Ticonderoga, to return 
to the Springs* and from thence to proceed by the rail 
road to Schenectady, where a post coach or packet boat 
can be taken three times a day for Niagara. 

EXCURSION TO THE WEST. 
Travellers w^ho design to visit Niagara and return 
without proceeding down Lake Ontario to Montreal, 
will find an excursion the most pleasant and diversified 
by travelling in stages and canal boats alternately. The 
stage route affords a better prospect of the populous 
parts of the country ; but is generally so far from the 
canal, that no opportunity is given of witnessing many 
of the thriving villages on its banks. It is tliereforc ad- 
visable so to arrange a tour that the most interesting 
parts of both routes may be seen in going and return- 
ing. To effect this, a packet boat may be taken at 
Schenectady at evening, which will pass Little Falls 



E3:CUR3I0N TO THE WiSST, 195 

the next morning, affording the tourist an interesting 
view of the scenery and aqueduct at that place, and 
reach Utica in the afternoon. The next morning a 
stage can be taken for Rochester, via Auburn, reach- 
ing the former place at evening of the second day ; from 
whence a packet boat leaves every morning reaching 
Lockport at daylight the next morning. Here a stage 
may be taken for the Falls, 20 miles distant, or the pas- 
sage, by canal, continued to Buffalo. But a better 
method, undoubtedly, if the fatigue of land travelling 
should not prevent, is, to continue on the stage route 
from Utica direct to Buffalo, by way of Auburn, Gene- 
va, Canandaigua and Batavia ; and return by canal from 
Lockport to Utica, stopping at least a day at each of 
the thriving villages of Rochester and Syracuse ; where 
objects of sufficient attraction will be found to warrant 
even a protracted visit. 

Heretofore, the months of July and August have been 
selected for an excursion to the west; but exprience 
has abundantly proved, that the early part of Septem- 
ber is far preferable. The heat of summer having then 
in a measure subsided, the air is more salvibrious, and 
the pleasure of a journey less interrupted by dust, per- 
plexity and fatigue. Added to tliis, it is the season of 
peaches ; of which a great abundance of the most de- 
licious are to be found between Canandaigua and Buf- 
falo. 

That tourists may be the better enabled to gratify their 
taste as to the mode of travelling, we subjoin a sketch 
of the stage and canal routes, disconnected, premising 
that a change from one to the other may be easily ef- 
fected at various points. 



194 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BUFFALO. 



RAIL ROAD AND STAGE ROtJTE. 

Distance from 



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• 


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ri 


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fcJ3 






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C 

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5g 

(5 



Saratorfa Springs, 

Ballston Spa, 

Schenectady, 

Amsterdam, 

Schoharie Creek, 

Cauo-hnawasra, 

Palatine, 

Fort Plain, 

East Canada Creek,. . . 

Little Falls, 

Herkimer, 

Frankfort, 

TJtica, , 

New Hartford, 

Manchester, 

Vernon, 

Oneida Castle, 

Lenox, 

auality Hill, 

Chitteninofo, 

Manlius, 

Jamesvilla, 

Onondaga Hollow,. . . 

Onondaga Hill, 

Marcellus, 

Skaneateles, .' 

Auburn, 





6i 
Hi 
16 

7 

4 
12 

3 

4 

7 

8 

6 

9 

4 

5 

8 

5 

3 

3 

D 

8 
6 
4 
3 
8 
6 
7 




6. 
21 
37 
44 
48 
60 
63 
67 
74 
82 
88 
97 
101 
103 
114 
119 
J 22 
125 
130 
138 
144 
148 
151 
159 
165 
172 



21 

Hi 


16 
23 
27 
39 
42 
46 
53 
61 
67 
76 
SO 
85 
93 
98 

101 

104 

109 

117 

123 

127 

130 
1138 

144 

151 



97 

90 i 

76 

60 

53 

49 

37 

34 

30 

23 

15 
9 

4 
9 

17 

22 

25 

28 

33 

41 

47 

51 

54 

62 

68 

75 



172 

165i 

151 

135 

128 

124 

112 

109 

105 

98 

90 

84 

75 

71 

66 

58 

53 

50 

47 

42 

34 

28 

24 

21 

13 
7 




300 

293i 

279 

263 

256 

252 

240 

237 

233 

226 

218 

212 

203 

199 

194 

186 

181 

178 

175 

170 

162 

156 

152 

149 

141 

135 

123 



TO EUFTALO, 



ig» 



Distance from 



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CC 


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3 


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50 


72 


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-2 

3 



Cayuga, | 8 



Seneca Falls, 

Waterloo, 

Geneva, 

Canandaigua, . . . 
East Bloomfield, . 
West Bloomfield, . 

Lima, 

East Avon, 

Avon Post Office, 

Caledonia, 

Leroy, 

Batavia, 

Pembroke, 



4 

4 

7 

16 

9 

5 

4 

5 

2 

8 

6 

10 

14 

Clarence, i 8 



Williamsville, 
Buffalo, 



8 
10 



ISO 

184 

188 

195 

211 

220 

225 

229 

234 

236 

244 

250 

260 

1 274 

282 

290 

300 



159 

163 

167 

174 

190 

199 

204 

208 

213 

215 

223 

229 

239 

253 

261 

269 

279 



83 
87 
91 
98 
114 
123 
128 
132 
137 
139 
147 
153 
163 
177 
185 
193 
203 



8 

12 

10 

23 

39 

48 

53 

57 

62 

64 

72 

78 

88 

102 

110 

118 

128 



120 

116 

112 

105 

89 

80 

75 

71 

66 

G4 

56 

50 

40 

26 

18 

10 





A rail road carriage can be taken at Saratoga Springs 
three times a day for Schenectady, the route, together 
with a description of the city, having been noticed in the 
preceding pages. At Schenectady stages are taken 
three times a day for Utica, so that a passage from the 
Springs to the latter place can be effected in about 12 
hours. Fare, from $4 to $4,50. 

Amsterdam, 16 miles west of Schenectady, is the 
first village of any magnitude that is reached on the 
route. It is located on the north side of the Mohawk 



196 STAGE ROUTE CAUCHMAWAOA. 

river, over wliich there is a substantial bridge. The vil- 
lage contains about 100 houses, and is destined to be- 
come a place of considerable importance from its prox- 
imity to the river and the Erie canal, but more especial- 
ly so, from the creek which passes through the village, 
and which, within half a mile, falls over a number of 
beautiful cascades, affording admirable facilities for 
manufacturing operations. The canal is on the south 
side of the river, and runs parallel therewith for several 
miles. 

Schoharie Creek, 7 miles. The ruins of Fort Hun- 
ter, at the mouth of this creek, are still visible. It was 
an important post during the early wars of this country. 
A chapel built by dueen Anne for the Indians, is also 
to be seen near this place, called Q,ii€en Anne's Chapel. 
The canal crosses the creek, by means of a dam and 
guard lock. 

Catjghnawaca, 4 miles farther, has little to render 
it a place of interest, if we except an antiquated stone 
church, Avhich has been built between 60 and 70 years, 
without having vindergone any material improvement or 
change during that period.* 



* Johnstown, celebrated as the former residence of 
S r William Johnson, is 4 miles north-east of this place< 
off the turnpike. The village contains between 2 and 
300 buildings, a bank, court house, jail, 3 churches, an 
academy, and 2 printing offices. It is situated on a 
handsome plain, with streets running at right angles ; 
and though many of the buildings are antiquated, yet 
there are several handsome private residences. The 
court house, jail and Episcopal church were built by 
Sir William ; beneath the latter of which his remains 



STAGE ROUTE FOPxT PLaIN. 197 

Twelve miles farther the stage stops at Palatine ; 
affording a beautiful prospect of the village of Canajo- 
HARiE, situated on the plain below, and on the banks 
of the canal. 

Fort Plain, a flourishing little village, is 3 miles 
west of Palatine. A fort, from which the place derives 
its name, was constructed here during the revolution- 
ary war; though but little of its remains are now to be 
seen. The place was originally settled by Germans, 
who suffered severely from the early Indian wars of this 
country. During the revolution, those who had taken 
refuge in the fort, w-ere surprised by Capt. Butler, on 
his return from burning Cherry Valley, and became a 
prey to similar atrocities. 



now repose. In opening the vault a few years since, it 
was found to contain so much water that the coffin 
was actually floating on its surface. The lid, composed 
of mahogany, was taken off, and still remains inside of 
the«church. It bears this inscription, formed with brass 
nails : " Sir Wm Johnson Bt Obiit 1774." The house, 
or what is called the " Hall," formerly occupied by Sir 
W. is about a mile from the village. Attached to it is 
a building which was used by him as a fort ; into which 
he had occasion, at times, to retreat from the assaults 
of the Indians. The marks of tomahawks are still vis- 
ible on the stair-case in the main building. 

The battle of Johnstown, October, 178], in which 
the British and Indians were defeated, was fought on 
the " Hall" farm. The American troops, consisting of 
between 4 and 500, were commanded by the venerable 
Col. Willet, who lately died at New- York. After the 
defeat, the enemy were pursued by him to the Canada 
creek, where several were killed, including Maj. Butler, 
Out of 607 of the hostile force sent on this expedition, 
but 220 returned to Canada. 



133 STAGE R.OTJTE — LITTLE FALLS. 

The East Canada Creek is passed by a substantial 
bridge, in going 4 miles farther ; from which to 

Little Falls, is 7 miles. This place takes its name 
from a cataract in the vicinity, which, in size, is much 
inferior to the celebrated Cahoes, and has, therefore, 
been denominated the Litlle Falls of the Mohawk. A 
continuation of the chain of Catsbergs crosses the riv- 
er at this place, and forms a rough bed for the waters 
of the cataract, which pour over the rocky fragments 
in the wildest confusion. Approaching from the south- 
east, a lofty ridge of mountains, frowning in grandeur 
on either side, conceals the course of the river and the 
falls, whose vicinity is announced only by the distant 
din and foam of its waters. For a considerable dis- 
tance, a narrow pass only is allowed for a road, with 
immense natural battlements of rock on either side, af- 
fording a sublime and interesting spectacle. About 
half a mile from the village the road turns suddenly to 
the left, presenting a view of the falls tumbling with 
irresistible violence over a srradual rocky descent ot 
about 80 rods. At the termination of the ascent is sit- 
uated the village, containing about 200 houses and 2000 
inhabitants. A cluster of buildings, rising between 
the rushing waters of the Mohawk on the one hand, 
and the rugged cliffs and eminences on the other ; the 
smooth current of the stream above gently gliding to 
the tumultuous scene belov/, and beyond the distant 
vale of the Mohawk diversified with fields, orchards, 
meadows, and farm houses, all contribute to set off the 
romantic appearance for which this place is so justly 
celebrated. This village derives most of its importance 
from the facihties for trade and commerce afforded by 



STAGE ROUTE LITTLE FALLS. 199 

means of the Mohawk river and the Erie canal. Boats 
were formerly transported around the falls through 
a canal on the north side of the river. This old ca- 
nal contains 8 locks and is now connected with the Erie 
canal on the south side of the river by means of an 
aqueduct 184 feet in length. The descent of the Erie 
canal here, in the distance of one mile, is 40 feet, which 
is passed by 5 locks. 

Travellers will always find it interesting to spend 
some time at this place, in \-iewing its great natural 
and artificial works. The ^^queduct across the river is 
one of the finest specimens of masonry on the whole 
line of the canal, though less stupendous than the locks 
at Lockport, and, in extent, falling considerably short 
of the aqueduct at Rochester. The river is passed on 
three beautiful arches of from 40 to 50 feet in height, 
with flagging on either side of the canal, and a strong 
iron railing. After crossing on the flagging, the stran- 
ger should return on the wooden bridge west of the 
aqueduct; which being several feet lower, affords a 
fine view of the arches, and of the extensive basin in 
the river immediately beneath the centre arch ; formed, 
doubtless, by the action of round stones set in motion 
by the water. 

The Erie canal, which is on the south side of the 
river, winds its way for some distance along the side of 
a bold and lofty mountain, the channel resting on & 
wall nearly 30 feet high, constructed from the bed of 
the river at great expense. The view afforded from a 
packet boat of mountain scenery on eitheir side, with a 
bare passage for the dashing waters of the Mohawk 
between, is highly interesting and sublime. Whichev^ 



200 STAGE ROUTE LITTLE FALLS. 

er way the eye is turned, it rests on huge masses of 
granite and limestone, piled in heaps. These rocks in 
some places rise to a great height, almost perpendicu- 
lar, presenting a bleak dark surface., unbleached by the 
thousand storms which have beat upon them ; others 
present a ragged and uneven face, crowned and over- 
hung by dark evergreens, dropping their verdure into 
the foaming torrent below ; the fissures between others 
of these huge piles produce liickory, maple and other 
trees, which hang from them, and with their sombre 
shadow deepen the gloomy darkness of the rocks from 
which they spring; whilst the scanty soil upon others 
gives life and penurious nourishment to dwarf oaks and 
vegetation peculiar to similar inhospitable regions. In 
this scene, where the rude but magnificent works of 
nature are so profusely displayed, the imagination is 
overpowered, in their sublimity, and the proudest works 
of man, and man himself, lose their importance. Even 
the canal, cut upon the mighty and enduring precipice 
— the road entrenched upon the mountain side, and the 
substantial locks and gates, all sink into comparative 
insignificance under the mighty shadows of the ever- 
lasting hills. 

Crystals of quarts, the most translucent, it is believ- 
ed, of any heretofore discovered in the state, are found 
in considerable quantities a short distance from the 
village.* 



* About 10 miles SE. of this place, on the ravine of 
a small stream, which empties into the Osquake creek, 
are some of the modt interesting specimens of petrifac- 
tions ever discovered in the country. They consibt of 



STAGE ROUTS HERKIMKR. 501 

The road, after leaving Little Falls, follows the bank 
of the river, in full view of the rich alluvial vale called 
the Herkimer and German Flats. This region, now 
glowing in all the beauty of successful cultivation, waa 
once the theati-e of the most sanguinary warfare. Du- 
ring the French and revolutionary vvars, it was ths 
scene of many barbarous incursions of the whites as 
well as savages. It was invaded by the French after 
the capture of Fort Oswego in 175G, and in 1757 the 
settlements were desolated by fire and sword. In the 
centre of these flats is situated the village of 

Herkimer, 8 miles from Little Falls. This village, 
as well as that of Little Falls, forms a part of the town 



a mass from 20 to 25 feet long, and from 3 to 5 feet in 
diameter, composed partly of petrifactions and partly of 
incrustations. The lower part exhibits the trunk of a 
hemlock tree, 2 feet in diameter, while the other parts 
'seem to have been formed of fragments of the same 
kind of tree. The transition from wood to tufa has 
been effected with so much precision, that the whole 
ligneous structure of the wood, its concentric layers, 
coating, or rings, gum, knots, &c. are most perfectly 
presei-ved. From some unknown cause, the waters 
which issued out of the declivity above the mass have 
'failed or been diverted, so that petrifaction has ceased 
at this spot. But in other parts of the declivity from 
which w^aters issue, thfiy are so highly impregnated 
with calcareous and other matters as to incrust pieces 
of wood coming within their reach. Not far from this 
place, the road has been cut through a tufa rock of very 
large dimensions ; on the sides of which are seen pe- 
trified pieces of wood imbedded within the mass, Vv hen- 
ever time will permit, mineralogists will find it inter- 
esting to stop a day at Herkimer, for the purpose of 
visitiag these extraordinary formations. 



202 STAGS ROUTE UTICA. 

of Herkimer, which extends along the banks of the 
Mohawk about 15 miles. West Canada Creek enters 
the river about half a mile east of the village, and is 
passed near its mouth by a well constructed bridge. 
The village is principally built on two parallel streets. 
It contains about 130 houses, and not less than 1000 
inhabitants. Eveiy appearance indicates a thriving and 
prosperous village. Between Herkimer and Utica is 
the small but thriving village of Frankfort, about 6 
miles from the former and 9 from the latter place. 
The country after leaving Herkimer is quite level, and 
remarkable fertile, though not in a high state of culti- 
vation. 

UTICA. 

This flourishing place stands on the south bank of 
the Mohawk river, 94 miles westwardly of Albany. It 
occupies the scite of old Fort Schuyler, where a gar- 
rison was kept previous to the revolution. Some rc-*^ 
mains of this fort are still to be seen between the east- 
ern extremity of Main street and the river. A few Ger- 
mans were settled here previous to the revolutionary 
war ; but a part were captured by the Indians and the 
remnant sought a place of more security. The first . 
permanent settler established himself about 4 miles west 
of Fort Schuyler in 1784. Five years afterwards a few 
families established themselves on the scite of the pre- 
sent town. In 1798 a villaofe charter was sranted : 
and in 1S32, the place was incorporated into a city. 
In 1813, it contained 1700 inhabitants; in 1816, 2828; 
in 1820, 2972; in 1823, 4017 ; in 1826, 6040; in 1828, 
7460 ; and in 1830, 8323. The village is regularly laid 
out, the streets of good width, and mostly paved. Gen- 



6TAGE ROUTE UTICA. 203 

esee street, in paticu'ar, is peculiarly -pleasant, and for 
the most part adorned with elegant stores and dwel- 
lings. 

There are numerous literary, benevolent and roli- 
gious institutions in this plac. Among these the Onei- 
da Institute of Science and Industry is perhaps most 
worthy of" remark, from its uniting manual with men- 
tal labor on the part of the students. There is a farm 
attached to it comprising one hundred and fourteen 
acres, upon which each student labors from three to 
four hours per day, and it is said that the experimf^nt 
thus far has proved, that labor from 3 to 5 hours per day 
pays the board of the student in this plentiful region. 
It is principally intended for the education of those de- 
signed for the ministry, but its privileges are common 
to all youth of unexceptionable character. There are 
also a classical academj^, a library, a county and ciiy 
lyceum, a gymnasium, two seminaries for young ladies, 
a seminary called the Clinton- Institute, 14 churches, 
some of which are very elegant, 3 banks, 9 printing 
offices, and 12 newspapers and periodical publications. 

tloTELSi— The principal hotels, which are in Gene- 
see street, are the following : City Hotel, by H. Ma- 
son, south of the canal ; Bagg's Hotel, near the Mo- 
hawk river; Canal CofTee House, by Mr. Shepherd, 
near the canal ; Franklin House, by R. Sanger, south 
of the canal; National Hotel, by J. Welles, north side 
of the canal ; Temperance House, do. do. These are 
all excellent establishments, fitted up in superior style, 
and are liberally patronized. 

The lands adjoining Utica are richly cultivated, pre- 
senting a succession of beautiful farms and country 

62 



204 STAaS ROUTE vTICA. 

seats. There are also various objects of attraction m 
the vicinity, a visit to which may be ranked among the 
pleasures of- an excursion to the west. Of these are 
Trenton Fa'!?, at the north ; and "Whitesborough, the 
York Mills, Clinton Village containing Hamilton Col- 
lege, and Rome, all within a few miles in a westerly 
direction. 

From what is called the siinmiU, an elevated spot 
near the village, a charming prospect may be had of 
the adjacent country, and particularly of the vale of 
the Mohawkfor several miles-in extent, including the 
beautiful and diversified farms which rise in a gentle 
acclivity fram the river. 

pAcsr.TS.^ — Three daily lines of packets run between 
Utica and Schenectady. The first line leaves Utica at 
7| A. M. ; the second at 3 F. M. ; and the third at 7 
P. M. From ] 8 to 20 hour& are occupied in the passage. 
Packet boats also leave for Rochester, 160 miles dis- 
tant, at half past 1 P. M. and at 4 P. M., going through 
in about 36 hours. The Buffalo packets leave at half 
past I P. xrl., and are'three days on their passage. The 
Utica and Oswego packets leave Utica daily on the ar- 
rival of the last boat ii-om Schenectady in the afternoon. 
The Chitteningo and Syracuse packets leave Utica at 
5 P. M. 

Stages to the West. — The mail Stage for Buffalo, 
203 miles, and Lewiston, leaves daily at 5 A. M. ; 
through in 3 days b}' day light only. 

The Telegraph, for Buffalo, leaves daily at 4_A, M. ; 
through in 33 to 36 hours; limited to six passengers. 

The Eagle, for Rochester, 1 40 miles, leaves daily at 



TREXTOM FA1X3. SOS 

10 A. M., or on the arrival of the packets from Sche- 
nectady ; through in 30 hours. 

The Pilot, for Buffalo, leaves daily at 6 P. M. ; thro' 
in 40 to 44 hours. 

Extra coaches, with regular relays of horses, are also 
furnished at all times for Niagara Falls, 220 miles, and 
for Trenton Falls, 1 5 miles. 

Stages to the East. — The Telegraph and Eclipse, 
limited to 8 passengers each, leave daily from 7 to 8 A. 
M., and arrive at Schenectady, 76 miles, in 12 hours. 

The Pilot, for Schenectady, leaves daily at 9 A. M. 
and arrives in time for the evening rail road car for Al- 
bany. 

The stage fare from Utica to Canandaigua, 114 
miles, is $3,50 ; from Utica to Rochester, 140 miles, 
from $4 to $4,50 ; and from Utica to Buffalo, 203 miles, 
$6,50. 

Among the excursions afforded to the traveller vrhile 
at Utica, none, perhaps, v. ill prove more interesting 
than a visit to 

Trenton Falls, ,15 miles north of the city. A de- 
scription of these falls has been obligingly furnished to 
the editor of this work by James Macauley, Esq., au- 
thor of a History of the State of New-York, (a work of 
much merit, recently published) from which the follow- 
ing extracts are made : 

"These renowned Falls are on West Canada creek, 
between 22 and 24 miles above its confluence with the 
Mohawk. The creek, is a powerful stream, and con- 
stitutes almost one half of the river at the coalescence. 
The falls commence a little above the high bridge on 



tO<5 TRENTOM FALLS. 

the Black river road, and terminate at Conrad's mills, 
occupying an extent of rather over two miles, being 6 
in number, 

" The creek in its way from the summit of the high- 
lands of Black river to its lower valley, lying between 
the latter and Hassenclever mountain, crosses a ridge 
of limestone 4 or 5 miles in breadth, stretching through 
the country from the Mohawk to the St. Lawrence.' 
Its course over this ridge by its tortuous bed is 6 or 7 
miles, 2 1 of which are above the falls. The waters of 
the creek, soon after they have reached the limestone, 
move with accelerated strides over the naked rocks to 
the head of the upper fall, where they are precipitated 
J 8 or 20 feet down an abrupt ledge into a spacious ba- 
sin. The whole descent to the head of this fall in the 
last 2 miles is computed at 60 feet. Here a deep and 
winding ravine begins, which extends down the stream 
more than 2 miles. Its average depth is estimated at 
100 feet, and its average breadtii at the top, 200. The 
Bides and bottom consist of limestone disposed in hori- 
zontal layers, varying in tliickness from some inches to 
a foot and upwards, and abound with organic remains. 
The sides of the ravine are shelving, perpendicular and 
overhanging; and some of the trees that have taken 
root in the fissures of the rocks are now pendant over 
the abyss, where they form the most fanciful appear- 
a.nces imaginable. The country along, and neighbor- 
ing the ravine, descends to tlie south end is mostly cov- 
ered with woods which exclude every appearance till 
you arrive at the very verge. Of the six falls, that 
above the high bridge on the Black river road, is called 
the Upper, and that at the end of the ravine, Conrad's 



TRENTON PALLS. 207 

Fall. The first in the ravine is a mile below the high 
bridge, and is denominated the Cascades ; the second, 
a little lower down, is called the Mill-dam ; the third, 
by way of eminence, are called the High Falls, and are 
40 rods below the preceding; the fourth is nearly 70 
rods below the High Falls, and is called Sherman's. 
All these are formed by solid reefs of rocks which cross 
the bed of the stream. 

" The water at the Upper Fall descends 18 or 20 feet 
perpendicularly. Below, there is a capacious basin, 
out of which the stream issues in a diminished bed in- 
to the ravine, the entrance of which is between lofty 
barriers of rocks. This fall, when viewed from the 
bridge, or from the high ground west of the creek, has 
a fine appearance. 

"At the Cascades, consisting of 2 pitches, with in- 
tervening rapids, the water falls 18 feet. The bed of 
the stream is here contracted, and the sides serrated, 
the banks of the ravine rising wnth abruptness almost 
directly in the rear. 

"The Mill-dam Fall, which is the second within the 
ravine, has an abrupt descent of 14 feet, the stream be- 
ing about 60 yards broad at the break. 

" The High Falls are 40 rods below the latter, and 
consist of 3 distinct falls, with intei-vening slopes and 
some small pitches. The first has a perpendicular de- 
scent of 48 feet ; in floods and rises the water covers 
the whole break and descends in one sheet ,• but at 
other times, mostly in two grooves at the west side of 
the fall. The second has a descent of about 1 1 feet ; 
the third 37 feet ; and the three, including the slopes 
and pitches, 109 feet. In freshets and floods, the en- 



203 TRENTON FALLS. 

tire bed at the High Falls is covered with water of a 
milk white color ; and the spray, which at such times 
ascends in pillars towards the sky, when acted upon 
by the rays of the sun, exhibits the rainbow in all its 
brilliant colors, 

" The fourth fall is Sherman's, and is distant nearly 
70 rods from the High Falls. The descent is 33 feet 
when the stream is low, and 37 when high. In droughts, 
the water pitches down at the west side. 

" The last fall is at Conrad's mills, at the very foot of 
the ravine, and is 6 feet. 

"Besides the falls, there are several raceways or 
chutes, from 10 to 20 rods long, through which the 
waters pass with great rapidity. The whole depres- 
sion of the stream from the top of the Upper Fall above 
the high bridge to the foot of Com-ad's is 312 feet; 
and if we add the descent above the Upper Fall, which 
is computed to be 60 feet, and that below Conrad's fall 
in half a mile, which is estimated at 15 feet, we shall 
find that the entire depression in less than 5 miles, is 
387 feet. 

" The falls, raceways and rapids, and, in truth, the 
whole bed within the ravine, exhibit very different ap- 
pearances at different times. These are occasioned by 
the elevations and depressions of the stream. In floods, 
the whole is one tremendous rapid, with four cataracts 
and several chutes. 

'* The best time to visit these falls is when the stream 
is low, because then there is no inconvenience or diffi- 
culty in ascending the ravine from the foot of Sher- 
man's stairway to the head of the upper raceway. 
Few persons who visit them have resolution to ascend 



TRENTON FALLS. 209 

the ravine from the stairway to the basin at the upper 
fall. This, however, is not to be wondered at, because 
the lofty rocky barriers which constitute the sides of 
the ravine advance to the water's edge in many places, 
and terminate in frightful projections, which cannot be 
passed without the most imminent danger. Some of 
these difficulties, however, have been obviated by blast- 
ing away portions of the rocks and putting up chains ; 
and persons now go up to the upper raceway without 
hazard. 

" The ravine, with some few exceptions, is still bor- 
dered by woods, and persons desirous of visiting the 
falls are obliged to go to what is called Sherman's 
house, from whence they proceed through the woods 
by some rude paths. One of these leads to the stair- 
way, which descends to the bottom of the ravine, and 
another leads up to the High Falls. The former is-us- 
ually preferred. On reaching the strand, at the foot of 
the stairway, you proceed up the stream at first upon 
the strand, and then by a narrow winding foot path 
to Sherman's fall. From thence you advance to the 
High Falls, a part of the way being overhung by large 
jutting rocks wliich menace you with destruction. 
From the head of the High Falls to the upper end of 
the raceway above the Cascades, the way is easy when 
the stream is low, but from thence upwardly it is diffi- 
cult and dangerous. 

" While you are passing along the narrow and sinu- 
ous path leading by the projections, and by the brinks 
of headlong precipices, you tremble with reverential 
awe, when you consider that one false step might pre- 
cipitate you into the resistless torrent below, and in an 



210 TRENTON FALLS, 

instant consign you to a watery grave. You see what 
a feeble creature man is, and are forcibly impressed with 
ideas of the wisdom and power of that mighty Being 
who commanded the earth to emerge from the deep and 
the waters to flow. 

"Along the bottom and lower parts of the ravine, 
numerous organic remains are found enveloped in the 
rocks which are easily divisible. The remains he flat 
in or between the laminae, their contours and compo- 
nent p'arts usually being little distorted from their orig- 
inal shape and dimensions. Sometimes there is defect, 
occasioned in the transition from the animal to the 
stony or fossil state ; but, in most instances, all the 
parts are so completely defined, that not only the order, 
but the genera and species may be recognized. These 
remains are easily separated from the layers in vvliich 
they are enclosed. Their exteriors are commonly glos- 
sy, often very smooth, and ordinarily of a dark color, 
being transformed into stone, and constituting integral 
parts of the rocks which envelope them. From a care- 
ful examination of certain of these remains, and their 
positions, we are led to believe that their prototypes 
lived and died on the spot, and that the rocks in which 
they are entombed are of posterior formation." 

Accommodations for visitants are furnished at Sher- 
man's, the only house kept at the falls for that pur- 
pose. Ladies who resort thither, should be furnish- 
ed with calf skin shoes or bootees. They not only 
owe it to their health to be thus provided, but the best 
pair of cloth shoes ^^^ll be ruined by a single excursion 
over these rocks. 



STAGE ROUTE ONEIDA CASTLE. 211 

Returning to Utica, the traveller, in pursuing a jour- 
ney to the west by stage, first reaches the pleasant 
village of 

New-Hartford, 4 miles from Utica, containing 
about 150 dwellings and stores, and three churches, be- 
sides a number of mills and manufactories, located on 
the Sadaquada creek. The land between Utica and 
New-Hartford is level and of an excellent quality, and 
resembles, with its neat and regular enclosures, an ex- 
tensive and highly cultivated garden. There are in the 
vicinity many country residences, constructed and im- 
proved with much taste and elegance. 

One mile from New-Hartford, at Clute's tavern, a 
tolerably good view of Hamilton College, 3 or 4 miles 
distant at the S. W. is obtained : but on ascending a 
more elevated position one mile farther, tlie prospect 
of the college and several adjoining buildings, is very 
distinct and beautiful. 

Manchester is 5 miles from New-Hartford ; and 
the country between the two villages exhibits some of 
the most highly cultivated and delightful farms in the 
state. 

Vernon, 8 miles from Ivlanchester, is a flourishing 
town of some magnitude. It contains two churches, a 
niimber of mills and a glass factory. 

Oneida Castle, 5 miles from Vernon, is situated 
on the Oneida creek, within the Oneida Reservation. 
Here is a considerable settlement, possessed by the 
Oneida and Tuscarora Indians ; a part of whom re- 
cently removed to the country west of the Michigan 
lake. They still retain the customs and dress peculiar 

T 



212 STAGE ROUTE CHITTENINGO. 

to their tribes. In the summer they are employed pnn- 
cipally in cultivation ; in the i'all it is their practice to 
repair to the hunting grounds in the northern part of 
the state, from whence they return with their booty in 
the latter part of the winter. This tribe entered the 
service of the state, as volunteers, during the late war; 
The lands in this reservation are but indifferently 
cultivated, and assume a m.iserable aspect in compari- 
son with the rich and highly improved farms on either 
side. In passing over an elevated tract, however, this 
disparagement is in a measure lost in the extensive 
prospect which is afforded at the north. A chain of 
lofiv mountains is seen skirting the horison as far as 
the eye can extend ; between which and the tract in 
question, are seen immense and apparently impenetra- 
ble forests. The prospect is sublime ; and will amply 
repay the traveller in stopping a short time to enjoy tliis 
rich and extensive scenery. 

Lenox, a small village, is 3 iniles from Oneida Castle. 
One mile farther, the flourishing and newly erected vil- 
lage of Canastota is seen about half a mile north of 
the turnpike on an extensive plain below, with the Erie 
canal passing through it. 

Quality Hii.l, a neat httle village on a pleasant em- 
inence, is 3 miles from Lenox ; and 5 miles farther is 
the -village of 

Chittekingo, situated on a creek of that name, and 
from which a feeder, 1 ^ mile long, is constructed to the 
canal. The village is bounded by very lofty hills, and 
cannot be considered a happy location, except for man- 
ufacturing purposes. Gypsum is here found in great 



STAGE ROUTE — MANLIT73. 213 

quantities ; also numerous petrifaction?, Bpecimens of 
which are in most of the mineralogical cjbinets in the 
Union. These petrifactions are near the village at the 
foot of a hill, and consist of the trunk of a tree and 
scattered fragments, the woody structure of which, in 
most cases, is remarkably perfect, and bearing a strong 
resemblance to the original. Various springs of v^a- 
ter issue from the sides of the hill, which exliibits nu- 
merous incrustations (calcareous tufa) along its slope 
and in the vale below. To the properties of these wa- 
ters may be attributed the formation of these incrusta- 
tions and petrifactions. 

At Chitteningo, the road diverges, forming two prom- 
inent routes to Auburn ; one passing through the vil- 
lages of jNI anlius, Onondaga Hollow, Onondaga 
Hill, Maroellus and Skant-.ateles, and the other 
passing through the village of Syracuse, noticed in the 
canal route. The first mentioned route, though over 
a less even country, is the one generally preferred by 
travellers, as affording a more ricli and diversified scene- 
ry of highly cultivated farms and flourishing villages. 
Four miles fi'om Chitteningo, on the road to Manlius, is 
an eminence from M'hich a beautiful prospect is obtain- 
ed of a part of Oneida Lake and a wide extent of hilly 
country beyond, Onondaga Lake, and the village of 
Onondaga Hill, 15 miles distant. Four miles farther is 
the flourishing ^^llage of 

Manlius, situated on the east side of Limestone 
creek, containing about 120 houses, 4 churches, 2 cot- 
ton factories, mills, &c. There are in the vicinity two 
considerable falls, the principal of which is 100 feet in 
height. 



214 STAGE ROUTE MARCELLU9. 

Jamesvii.le is 6 miles from Manlius. Green Pond, 
in this vicinity, is worthy of notice. The water is 200 
feet deep, and of a deep green color, emitting a strong 
smell of sulphur. The surface of the pond is between 
100 and 200 feet below the level of its shores, which 
are precipitous and rocky. Foiu: miles farther is the 
village of 

Onondaga Hollow, extending I mile across a deep 
but beautiful valley, through which the Onondaga creek 
passes. The village contains an academy, church, &c. ; 
but its business has declined since the opening of the 
canal, and the springing up of the village of Syracuse, 
which is 4 miles distant. Three miles south of Onon- 
daga Hollow is a considerable settlement of Onondaga 
Indians, where once was held the grand councils of the 
Six Nations.- 

Onqndaga Hill, 2 miles farther, is pleasantly situa- 
ted on very high ground, vidth a commanding view of 
the country to the north and east for a considerable dis- 
tance, embracing within the prospect the Onondaga 
Lake and the villages of Syracuse, Salina and Liver- 
pool. 

Marcellus, 8 miles from Onondaga Hill, is a neat 
village of 70 or 80 houses, situated in the valley of the 
Otisco creek. Two miles north are falls of some 60 or 
70 feet affording facilities for a variety of manufactories ; 
near which, water lime or cement is found in inexhausti- 
ble quantities. There is also lying on the bank of the 
creek at this place a petrified tree of large dimensions, 
partly covered with limestone, 



STAGE ROUTE — AUBURN. 213 

Skaneateles, 6 miles from Marcellus, is situated at 
the foot of the Skaneateles Lake, and is a beautiful 
thriving village, containing about 1200 inhabitants, 2 
churches and a flourishing academy, a variety of man- 
ufactories, mills and many elegant private dvrellings. 
It enjoys a commanding view^ of the lake for 6 or 8 
miles above and of the surrounding country, vvdiich ri- 
ses in a gentle aclivity from the water 100 feet or more 
in the course of a mile, presenting a range of neat white 
farm houses on the summit, and a slope of highly cul- 
tivated country towards the lake on each side. The 
lake, which is 18 miles long and from half a mile to 
two miles in width, abounds with fine trout and other 
fish. The water is deep and remarkably pure, with a 
gravelly bottom and bold shores. The prospect from 
the lake is highly interesting, particularly towards its 
head, where the country rises abruptly several hundred 
feet, presenting a miniature picture of mountain scene- 
ry. Under these bluffs on the east side and on a level 
with the water are found large quantities of petrifactions, 
the cornu ammonite, imbeded in a stratum of slate. 
Three miles north of the idllage the Skaneateles creek 
falls over a bed of rocks about 70 feet in a short dis- 
tance; but in low water, the v.'hole is lost or sinks 
among the rocks and only a part of it again appears at 
a distance of half a mile below, presenting the novel 
spectacle of a river much larger at its fountain than at 
its mouth. Seven miles from Skaneateles stands the 
flourishing village of 

Auburn. It is situated on the Owasco creek, two 
miles below its^outlet from the lake of the same name, 
24 miles from Onondaga, and 170 from Albany. This 

t2 



216 STAGE ROUTE AUBUHK. 

village owes much of its importance to the numerous 
mills and manufactories for which its location is ex- 
tremely eligible. It contains about 450 houses and 
4000 inhabitants. Amongst other public buildings 
there are a court house and gaol, and a prison erected 
for convicts at the expense of the state. There has 
also been established a theological seminary, which is 
patronized exclusively by the Presbyterian denomina- 
tion, and is at present the only one of the kind in the 
state. Many circumstances combine to render this 
place an agreeable residence to the man of taste or busi- 
ness. The village is handsomely built, and increases 
annually in population and business. It is situated 7 
miles from Weed's Port, on the canal, to which place 
stages run daily, for the accommodation of passengers 
wishing to take packet boats for the west or east — fare 
50 cents. 

The principal public houses are the Western Ex- 
change and Bank Coffee House. 

The State Prison, at Auburn, is considered one of 
the best in the Union. It was commenced in 1816, and 
is constructed upon the plan of a hollow square, en- 
closed by a wall 2000 feet in extent, being 500 feet on 
each side. The front of the prison, including the keep- 
er's dwelling, is about 300 feet, and the two wings ex- 
tending west, are 240 feet each. The north wing con- 
tains the solitary cells and hospital, and the south wing 
is divided principally into two large rooms. Between 
the two wings is a grass plot with gravel walks ; to 
the west of w^hich is the interior yard, covered with 
gravel, containing reservoirs of water, and surrounded 
with workshops. These shops,* besides the paint shop, 



STAGE ROUTE AUBURN. 217 

form a continued range of 900 feet ; and are well light- 
ed by windows in the sides and from the roof. They 
are built of brick, and are well secured against fire. 
The outer walls, against which the shops are built, are 
35 feet high on the inside, and the other walls about 
20. They are four feet thick, and the walls of the pris- 
on 3 feet. The expense of the whole, without includ- 
ing the labor of the convicts employed, was above ^300,- 
OOO. The prison being erected on the bank of the 
Owasco, water power is applied in many cases, to great 
advantage, in propelling machinery. 

The most interesting period for witnessing the pris- 
oners is early in the morning, from the time they are 
brought forth to labor till after breakfast. The spec- 
tator will then have an opportunity of seeing some of 
the prominent features of the order, regularity and 
Bystern with which every thing is conducted. He will 
admire the precision vrith which the rules are execu- 
ted, without the least confusion, noise, or even com- 
mand. The convicts silently marching to and from 
their rest, meals and labor, at precise times, moving in 
separate corps, in single file, with a slow lock step, 
erect posture, keeping exact time, wnth their faces in- 
clined towards their keepers, (that they may detect con- 
versation, of which none is ever permitted,) all give to 
the spectator somewhat similar feelings to those excited 
by a military funeral ; and to the convicts, impressions 
not entirely dissimilar to those of culprits when march- 
ing to the gallows. The same silence, solemnity and 
order, in a good degree, pervades every business and 
department. 



218 STAGS ROUTE — SEKCCA FALLS. 

In addition to divine service in the chapel of the pris» 
on every Sabbath, a Sunday school has been establish- 
ed, snperintonded by the students of the theological 
seminary, w^hich has been attended with very beneficial 
effects. 

So admirable has been the discipline of this prison 
that a large proportion of the convicts discharged have 
become honest, industrious men, and none are known 
to have become corrupted or made worse. 

Catttga, 8 miles west of Auburn, is a small village ; 
but affords a beautiful prospect of the Cayuga Lake, 
and the bridge extending across, which is 1 mile and 
8 rods long, and situate within 2 miles of the outlet. 
This la'xe is 33 riiiles in length, and is generally from 
1 to 2 miles in breadth. The water is shallow, but 
of sufficiont depth for a good sized steam-boat, which 
plies daily between the bridge. and Ithaca, a beautiful 
and thriving village, at the head of the lake, 36 miles 
distant. 

Seneca Falls, 3 niilfs west of Cayuga, is a flourish- 
ing village, located on the banks of the Seneca river, 
which here falls 46 feet, affording important manufac- 
turing facilities. The village has attained a very rapid 
growth within the last 3 or 4 years, and will probably 
soon take rank among the most important towns in the 
western part of the statf". For, in addition to its manu- 
facturing privileges, a canal extends to the Erie canal at 
Lakeport, 20 miles distant, v%-hich, connected with the 
river at the village, affords an uninterrupted water com- 
munication from Geneva to the western lakes and the 
ocean. Four miles farther is the handsome village of 



STAGE ROUTE GENEVA. 219 

Waterloo, a half shire town in Seneca county. It 
contains about 260 houses, a court house, jail, and 2 
printing oilices. The village is principally situate on 
the northern bank of the Seneca outlet ; which here 
propels several mills. The commencement of this vil- 
lage was in 1816 ; since which it has become a place of 
very considerable importarree ; though it is probably 
destined to yield in magnitude and business to its rival 
village at Seneca Falls. From Waterloo to 

Geneva, 7 miles distant, ttie route is delightful, em- 
bracing (a part of the way) a charming ride around the 
north end of the Seneca Lake, which is here about 2 
miles wide. The village is one of the most elegant in 
the state ; and, with its beautiful scenery, cannot fail 
of calling forth the admiration of every visitant. It is 
situate on the western margin of tiie lake, the bank of 
which being lofty, affords an enchanting view of one of 
the purest sheets of water in America, There are al- 
ready in this place about 450 buildings, many of which 
are very handsome ; and the number is Constantly in- 
creasing. Among the public buildings are a college, 
an academy, 4 churches and a bank. The college is 
located on an eminence south of the village, on the 
margin of the lake ; and though in its infancy, is 
handsomely patronized. It is in Ihe vicinity of several 
country seats, enjoying an unusual richness of pros- 
pect, with an almost constant breeze from the lake ; 
which is about 35 miles long, and from 3 to 4 miles 
wide. It abounds with salmon trout and other fish, 
end is never closed with ice. A steam-boat runs daily 
from Geneva to JeflTersonville, at the head of the lake, 



220 STAGE ROUTE — GENEVA. 

leaving the former place at 7 A. M., and returning at 
evening.* The Genesee turnpike leads through Gen- 



* A passage on the lake is peculiarly delightful and 
interesting. Leaving Geneva with. its neat stores, and 
elegant dwellings, its luxuriant hanging gardens, and 
the glittering spires of its churches and college, the eye 
takes in a southern water view not surpassed in any 
part of this world of inland seas. The first villasre of 
any note on the eastern ^hore is O^dd, 18 miles from 
Geneva. The lofty eminence on which it stands, and 
the rich and highly cultivated farms in its vicinity, ren- 
der it a most conspicuous and interesting object. Di- 
rectly opposite to Ovid is Dresden, one of the most 
thriving villages in Yates county. It is situated on the 
outlet of Crooked Lake, and extends nearly a mile back 
of the shore. Immediately south of Dresden, is the 
farm of the late celebrated Jemima Wilkinson,, an en- 
thusiast, who pretended that she was the Saviour of 
mankind. Until her death, which took place some 
years since, she had several followers ; and this farm, 
■which is ver}'^ beautiful, has passed by Avill into the 
hands of one of them. Four miles south of Dresden is 
Long Point, remarkable for a tree. at its extremity, 
which, by a little aid from the imagination puts on the 
semblance of an elephant. Six miles south of Long 
Point is Rapelyea's ferry, hear which is still standing 
the frame which Jemima constructed to try the faith 
of her followers. Plaving approached within a frw 
hundred yards of the lake shore, she alighted from an 
elegant carriage, and the road being strewed by her 
followers with white handkerchiefs, she walked to the 
platform, and having announced her intention of walk- 
ing across the lake on the water, she stepped ankle deep 
into the clear element, wlipn suddenly pausing, she ad- 
dressed the multitude, inquiring whether or not they 
had faith that she could pass over, for if otherwise, she 
could not ; and on receiving an affirmative answer, re- 



STAGE ROUTE CANANDAIGUA. 221 

eva, and the Erie canal passes about 1 2 miles to the 
north of it ; with which tliere is a water communica- 
tion, by means of the outlet of the Seneca lake and a 
lateral canal, noticed at p. 218. 

Canandaigua is 15 miles from Geneva. This vil- 
lage is situated near the outlet of the lake from which 
it takes its name, on a gentle ascent commanding a 
fine view of the lake at the distance of half a mile. 
The principal street extends 2 miles in length, and is 
handsom'^ly decorated with trees, through which ap- 
pear the delicately painted dwellings, ornamented with 
Venetian blinds. In an open square, in the centre of 
the village, is the court house and clerk's office of the 
county. The Episcopal church, situate on the main 
street, is one of the most elegantly constructed build- 



turned to her carriag^e, declaring that as they believed 
in her power, it was unnecessary to display it. Six 
miles and a half south of Rapelyea's ferry, is Starkie's 
Point, where the shore is so bold that the steam-boat 
passes within 10 feet of the extremity. of the Point. 
Four miles furtlier on the west shore is the Big Stream 
Point, at which there is a riiill seat with a fall of 136 
feet. The land puts on a wilder aspect as the tourist 
approacjies the head of the lake, and the eminences are 
more beetling and precipitous. The eastern shore also 
partakes more of the mounrainous character, though 
cultivated far up the summit lands, and is here and 
there marked by ravines, through one of which " Hec- 
tor Falls" tumble from a heieht of one hundred and 
fifty feet, and carry several valuable mills. These falls 
are distant throe miles from the village of Jeffersonville, 
at the head of the lake, which has recently sprung into 
existence, and which will soon become an important in- 
land town. 



222 STAGE ROUTE — CANANDAIGUA. 

ings in the state. In the vicintty are a nunnber of de- 
hghtful villas, surrounded with smiling gardens and 
orchards of various kinds of fruit, which, with the view 
of the lake stretching far to the south, beautifully set 
off the scene of enchantment. In richness and variety 
of natural scenery, and the taste and elegance of its 
edifices, few villages can compare with Canandaigua.. 
In point of trade and wealth, too, it is not exceeded by 
many villages in the state. A steam mill is here in op- 
eration, which annually furnishes a very large supply 
of flour. On the lake, _ -which is 14 miles long, and 
from one to two in breadth, a steam-boat performs a 
daily trip, which is rendered unusally interesting from 
the varied scenery which is presented. The village is 
situated 208 miles from Albany ; from Utica, 1 14 ; from 
Buffalo, 89 ; from Niagara Falls, 109. Principal public 
houses, Blossom's Hotel (one of the best in the western . 
district) and Pitt's Eagle Tavern. 

Canandaigua was one of the first towns settled in 
what was formerly called the "Genesee country." The 
entire tract, containing six millions of acres, was pur- 
chased of Massachusetts by Oliver Phelps and Nathan- 
iel Gorham, in 1787, for $1,000,000 ; and Phelps, then 
living at Gransville, in that state, made preparations the 
spring following with men and means to explore the 
country thus acquired. With great resolution and in- 
trepidity, he took leave of liis family and his neighbors, 
together with the minister of the parish, who assem- 
bled on the occasion, and started on his expedition, 
leaving them all in tears, bidding him a final adieu, 
scarcely hoping for his return from a wilderness, in the 
Indian country, hardly yet pacified. 



STAGE ROUTE CANANDAIGUA. 223 

He persevered and penetrated the forest from tho 
German Flats to Canandaigua, a distance of 128 miles, 
by the present improved road — sent out runners, and 
collected the Sachems, Chiefs, and Warriors of the Six 
Nations, and in July, 1788, with the aid of the Rev. 
Samuel Kirtland, as State Commissioner and Indian 
Missionary, concluded a treaty of purchase of a tract 
containing 2^ millions of acres. The Indians were dis- 
posed to confine Mr. Phelps to the Genesee river as his 
western boundary. He however proposed the erection 
of mills at the falls of the riv^r, (now Rochester) and 
obtained of them in the purchase what was termed a 
mill yard, embracing a tract of 12 by 24 miles, extending 
12 miles west of Rochester, and north to Lake Ontario. 

The kindness of Mr. Phelps, and the good faith al- 
ways observed by him tcv/ards the Indians, induced 
them to adopt him §.nd his son as honorary members of 
their national councils. The leading chiefs concerned 
in these negotiations were Farmer^s Brother and Red 
Jacket, the latter of whom died near Buffalo in 1829. 

In 1789, the lands thus purchased having been divi- 
ded into rang-es, Phelps opened aland office at Canandai- 
gua, the first established in America, where he contin- 
ued to make sales until the year following, when the 
balance of the tract to which the Indian title had been 
extinguished, being 1,264,000 acres, was sold to Robert 
Morris, for eight pence lawful money per acre, who sold 
the same to Sir William Pulteney, of England. 

Gorham and Phelps not being able to pay the whole 
purchase money, compromised and surrendered to Mas- 
sachusetts that part of the land to which the Indian title 
u 



224 BURNING SPRINGS. 

remained unextinguished, being about two thirds of the 
western part of it ; and in 1736, Morris purchased of 
Massachusetts the tract thus surrendered, extinguish- 
ed the Indian title, sold out several tracts to different 
persons, and mortgaged the residue to William WiU 
link and others, of Amsterdam, called the Holland 
Company — under the foreclosure of which mortgages 
the company acquired the full title to their large tract, 
surveyed it into ranges and townships, after the man- 
ner of Oliver Phelps, and in 1801 opened a land office 
at Batavia, under the agency of Joseph Ellicott, for the 
sale thereof. 

Oliver Phelps, Esq. a grandson of the original pro- 
prietor, is the owner and resides on the premises of his 
ancestor in Canandaigua. 

Burning Springs. From S to 10 miles, in a south- 
westerly direction from Canandaigua, are found several 
springs, charged with inflamable gas. The following 
description of them is taken from a Canandaigua jour- 
nal : 

" These springs are found in Bristol, Middlesex, and 
Canandaigua. The former are situated in a ravine on 
the west tide of Bristol Hollow, about half a mile from 
the ]Nrorth Presbyterian meeting house. The ravine is 
formed in clay slate, and a small brook runs through 
it. The gas rises through fissures of the slate, from 
both the margin and the bed of the brook. Where it 
rises through the water, it is formed into bubbles, and 
flashes only when the flame is applied ; but where it 
rises directly from the rock, it bums with a steady and 
beautiful flame, vi^hich continues until extinguished by 
storms, or by design. 



BURNING SPRINGS. 225 

The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to 
two miles south-westerly from the village of Rushville, 
along a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at tlie bot- 
tom of the valley called Federal Hollow, and partly at 
an elevation of 40 or 50 feet on the south side of it* 

The latter have been discovered within a few years, 
in a field which had been long cleared, and are very nu- 
merous. Their places are known by little hillocks of a 
few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of 
a dark bituminous mould, which seems principally to 
have been deposited by tlie gas, and through which it 
finds its way to the surface, in one or more currents. 
These currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn 
with a steady flame. In winter they form openings 
through the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the nov- 
el and interesting phenomenon of a steady and hvely 
flame in contract with nothing but snow. In very cold 
weather, it is said, tubes of ice are. formed round these 
currents of gas, (probably from the freezing of the wa- 
ter contained in it,) which sometimes rise to the height 
of two or three feet, the gas issuing from their tops ; 
the whole when lighted in a still evening presenting an 
appearance even more beautiful than the former. 

Experiments made with the gas seem to prove, that 
it consists principally of a mixture of the light and heavy 
carburetted hydrogen gases, the former having greatly 
the preponderance ; and that it contains a small pro- 
portion of carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a 
little oily or bituminous matter in solution. It burns 
with a lambent, yellowish flame, scarcely inclining to 
red, with small scintillations of a bright red at its base. 
It has the odour of pit coal. It produces no smoke, 



226 STAGE ROUTE EAST BLOOMFIELD. 

but deposits, while burning, a small quantity of bitu- 
minous lampblack. It is remarkable that the hillocks, 
through which the gas rises, are totally destitute of 
vegetation. Whether the gas is directly deleterious to 
vegetable life, or indirectly, by interrupting the contact 
of the air of the atmosphere, it is certain that no plant 
can sustain life within the circle of its influence. 

It is well knov\'n that this gas is found abundantly in 
coal mines ; and baing accidentally set on fire, (mixed 
as it is in those mines with the air of the atmosphere,) 
has many times caused terrible and destructive explo- 
sions. The writer cannot learn that it has ever been 
known to be generated in the earth, except in the pres- 
ence of coal ; and hence the inference is strong that it 
proceeds from coal." 

From Canandaigua stages may be taken for Roches- 
ter, (see "Canal Ptoute,") distant 27 miles in a north- 
westerly direction, and the route continued from thence 
to the Falls by stage or canal ; but if a visit to Montre- 
al, by the way of Lake Ontario, is not contemplated, it 
is generally deemed a better course to proceed directly 
to Buffalo and the Falls, and return by the way of Ro- 
chester. In pursuing the usual route from Canandai- 
gua to Buffalo, 

East Bloomfield is reached in travelling 9 miles, 
and West Bloomfield in going 5 miles farther. They 
are considered among the richest agricultural town- 
ships in the state ; presenting a succession of beautiful 
and highly cultivated farms. The fruit raised on these 
lands, particularly apples and peaches, is not excelled 
in any section of the country. 



STAGE ROUTE— CaLKDONJA. S27 

Lima is 4 miles from West Bloomfield, and is a con- 
tinuation of the same rich and fertile soil, divided into 
highly improved and productive farms. 

East Avon is 5, and Avon Post Office 7 miles 
from Lima. The Genesee river passes through the 
town of Avon, and is navigable for boats to the Erie 
canal at Rochester, 20 miles distant, with which it is 
connected by a feeder. The alluvial flats are very ex- 
tensive and fertile. ; and the uplands are well watered 
by small streams and springs. A remarkable bulbous 
root grows on the Genesee flats in this town. It is 
from 3 to 4 feet in length, from 6 to 8 inches in diame- 
ter, and assumes the external appearance of a log in 
the earth. A small creeping vine, like that of the straw- 
ben-y, proceeds from the root ; and its natural vegeta- 
ble productions are almost infinitely various. 

The Avon Spring is becoming a place of considera- 
ble resort for invalids. Its waters, which are strongly 
impregnated with sulphur and alum, are found benefi- 
cial in various diseases. The tourist will generally find 
himself amply compensated by spending a day at this 
place, 

Caledonia, 8 miles from Avon Post Oflice, is more 
particularly celebrated as t!ie location of a large Spring, 
than for any thing else. The stage usually stops at 
the village long enough to enable passengers to visit 
tlois natural curiosity, which is situate a few rods north 
of the principal street. Wi^^^^i^^ ^ small area, sufficient 
water rises to propel a mill, (of which there are several 
on the stream below,) at all seasons of the year. The 
water is pure and appears to rise from a rocky bottom. 
u2 



228 6TAGE RODTE BATAVIA. 

A Btage runs daily from this place to E-ochester, which 
is 20 miles distant. A part of the route Ues on the bank 
of the Genesee river, and, most of the way, through an 
uncultivated country. Settlements and improvements, 
however, are rapidly increasing ; and the wilderness 
will are long give place to the arts of husbandry. 

Pursuing the direct route from Caledonia to Buffalo, 
the next place of importance is the pleasant and thri- 
ving village of 

Lerot, which is 6 miles west of Caledonia, and 17 
miles south of the Erie Canal. Allen's creek, which 
passes through the village, affords important mill privi- 
leges, and contributes much to the value and business 
of the place. The number of buildings already erect- 
ed is between 2 and 300, principally located on one 
street ; among which are several very handsome pri- 
vate dwellings. Numerous petrifications have been 
found in the bed of the creek, about 200 yards north of 
the village bridge ; among which are petrified turtles, 
weighing from 10 to 300 pounds. They are compos- 
ed principally of dark coloured bituminous limestone, 
which is easily split, and often discovery crystaline 
veins, together with yellow clay or ochre. The mine- 
ralogist will find much here to gratify his taste and re- 
ward, his researches. The delightful appearance of the 
village, also, with its charming location on an emi- 
nence, will often induce the traveller to make it a tem- 
porary resting place from the fatigues of a journey. 

Batavia is 10 miles from Le Roy. It is the capital 
of Genesee county ; and assumes more the appearance 
of one of the early settled villages in New-England, 
than the more flourishing villages of the west. It is 



(Btagg: route — batavia. 229 

situated on the north side of the Tonewanta creek, on 
an extensive plain, and has several handsome and even 
elegant private mansions. Besides the court house 
and jail, it contains a bank, the Holland Company land 
office, and a few other public buildings. 

This village has become somewhat celebrated as the 
theatre of events connected with the masonic fraterni- 
ty. It was the residence of the noted William Morgan^ 
previous to his abduction ; and from one of its print- 
ing offices was first issued what has been denominated 
the secrets of masonry. The excitement produced for 
a time in the village, and in others sections of the coun- 
try, was of a nature the most rancorous and intolerant, 
and unworthy the character of an enlightened people. 
Illiberal feelings, however, have, in a measure, given 
place to reason ; and there is a prevailing disposition to 
establish peace and good order. 

After leaving Batavia for Buffalo, the country soon 
assumes a less populous appearance ; and the travel- 
ling is rendered unpleasant from the extensive cause- 
ways M'hich intervene, consisting of logs placed trans- 
versely in the road. This has been done to avoid the 
deep mud on the low grounds, which are subject to 
frequent inundations in the spring and fall. The state 
of these roads has induced many to prefer the ridge road 
or alluvial way from Rochester 'to Lewiston, (which is 
noticed in a subsequent part of this volume.) But, in 
visiting Buffalo as well as the Fall?, the latter route ia 
more circuitous, and ca,n be taken with greater conven- 
ience in returning. 

The intervening places between Batavia and Buffa- 
loj are Pembroke, 1 4 miles — Clarence 8 — Williamsville 



230 ERIE CANAL. 

S — from wliich to Buffalo is 10 miles. [For a descrip- 
tion of the latter place, see "Canal R.oute."] 

ERIE CANAL. 
This magnificent structure was commenced under 
the patronage of the state, on the 4th of July, 1817, 
and was completed in 1825, uniting the waters of the 
Erie and Hudson, at an expense of less than seven mil- 
lions of dollars, a sum trivial in comparison with the 
immense advantage derived to the state from such com- 
munication. The canal, beginning at Albany on the 
Hudson, passes up the west bank of that river nearly 
to the mouth of the Mohawk ; thence along the bank 
of the Mohawk, to Schenectady, crossing the river 
twice by 2 aqueducts. From Schenectady it follows 
the south bank of the M ohawk until it reaches Rome. 
In some places it encroaches so near as to require em- 
bankments made up from the river to su.pport it. An 
em')ankment of tliis description at Amsterdam village, 
is 5 or 6 miles in extent. Yv'hat is called the long level, 
being a distance of 69 1-2 miles without an interven- 
ing lock, commences in the tov/n of Frankfort, about 8 
miles east of Utica, and terminates 3-4 of a mile east 
from Syracuse ; from thence the route proceeds 35 
milos to Lake Fort, situated on the east border of the 
Cayuga marshes, 3 miles in extent, over which to the 
great embankment, .72 feet in height and near 2 miles 
in length, is a distance of 52 miles j thence £h mil -a 
to the commencement of the Genesee level, extending 
westward to Lockport, nearly parallel with the ridge 
road, 65 miles. Seven miles from thence to Pendleton 
village the canal enters Tonnewanta creek, wlach it 



ERIE CA.VaL. fSl 

follows 12 miles, and thence following the east side of 
the Niagara river, communicates with Lake Erie at 
Buffalo. The wliole line of the canal from Albany to 
Buffalo is 333 miles in length. It is 40 feet wide at the 
top and 28 feet wide at the bottom. The water flows 
at the depth of 4 feet in a moderate descent of half an 
inch in a mile. The tow path is elevated about 4 feet 
from the surface of the water, and is 10 feet wide. The 
whole length of the canal includes 83 locks and 18 
aqueducts of various extent. The locks are construct- 
ed in the most durable manner of stone laid in water 
lime, and are 90 feet in length, and 1 5 feet in width. 
The whole rise and fall of lockage is 68S feet ; and the 
height of Lake Erie above the Hudson 568 feet. The 
principal aqueducts are, one crossing the Genesee river 
at Rochester, 804 feet in length ; one crossing the Mo- 
hawk at Little Falls, supported by 3 arches, the centre 
of 70 feet, and those on each side of 50 feet chord ; and 
two crossing the Mohawk river near Alexander's bridge, 
one of. which is 748 feet and the other 1183 feet in 
length. The whole workmanship evinces a degree of 
beauty and proportion consistent with the greatest 
strength. In many places the sides of the canal are 
either paved with small stones or covered with thick 
grass, designed to prevent the crumbling of the soil by 
the motion of the water. To the main canal are a 
number of side cuts or lateral canals : one opposite 
Troy, connecting with the-Hudson ; one at Syracuse, 
a mile and a half in length, to Salina ; one from Syra- 
cuse to Oswego, 33 miles in length ; one at Orville ; 
one at Chitteningo : one at Lake Port, extending to 
the Cayuga lake, 5 miles, and from thence to the Senr 



S33 ERIE CANAL. 

eca lake at Geneva, a distance of 15 miles ; and one at ! 
Rochester of two miles in length, which serves the ' 
double purpose of a navigable feeder, and a mean of ] 
communication for boats between the canal and the Gen- 
esee river. The Chemung canal, extending from the 
head waters of the Seneca lake to the Chemung river, , 
18 miles distant, with a navigable feeder of 13 miles, \ 
from Painted Post on the Chemung river to the sum- 
mit level of the canal, is nearly completed. The Crook- 
ed lake canal, 7 miles in length, extending from the out- i 
let of the Seneca lake to the Crooked lake, near Pen 
Yan, is also in progress. The debt contracted for the i 
Champlain and Erie canals, amounted on the 1st of 
January, 1826, to $9,108,269, including $1,621,274, | 
expended in the construction of feeders, lateral canals, 
dams, &c. and in the payment of salaries of the com- ; 
missioners and other officers engaged in the work, i 
The revenue from the tolls of both canals, in 1822, 
amounted to $64,071 ; in 1823, to $151,099 ; in 1824, to , 
$283,320 ; in 1825, to $500,000 ; in 1826, to 675,190 ; 
in 1827, to $359,058 ; in 1823, to 883,000 ; in 1829,* 
to $813,137; in 1830, to $1,056,799; in 1331, to $1,- 
202,531; and in 1832, to $1,229,483. The canal debt on ' 
the 1st January, 1333, amounted to $7,001,035 ; and the j 
surplus moneys in the canal fund on the 30th Septem- < 
ber preceding, including tolls, duties on salt and auc- 
tions, and other sources, applicable to the extinguish- | 
ment of this debt, was $3,055,217. X\o part is redeem- j 



* The tolls of the Oswego and Cavuga and Seneca 
canals are mcluded, after 1829. 



CANAL ROUTE. 233 

able until July, 1937, when $3,189,000 becomes paya- 
ble ; and the residue, $3,512,035, in July, 1S45. Should 
the receipts, however, continue to augment in the same 
ratio as heretofore, it is believed the state will possess 
the means of extinguishing the entire debt in 1838. 

CANAL PASSAGE. 

Of the sources of gratification to the tourist, during 
the canal passage, that of novelty is perhaps the great- 
est. To the man of pleasure, it will be considered, per- 
haps, too little diversified with incident to be repeated ; 
but to the man of business this objection will probably 
yield to the vmited considerations of the convenience 
and safety of this mode of conveyance. The passage 
boats are generally constructed 80 feet in length and 
14 feet in width, and draw from 1 to 2 feet of water. 
The cabin occupies the whole length of the deck, ex- 
cepting about 8 or 10 feet reserved at one end for the 
cook, and 4 or 6 feet at the other end for the pilot. 
The intermediate space is occupied as a cabin, con- 
structed from the deck into a room 8 feet in height, 
with single births on each side, and calculated to ac- 
commodate 30 persons. The boats are drawn by three 
horses, one before the other, and move day and night, 
at the rate of 4 miles an hour. Relays are furnished 
every 8 or 10 miles. Boats with commodities proceed 
at the rate of 55 miles in 24 hours ; and boats witii pas- 
sengers (including delays) about 85 miles in the same 
time. 

CANAL ROUTE. 

The several places and distances, as they occur on 
the canal route from Albany to Buffalo are as follows : 



234 



ALBANY 

Troy 

Junction 

Schenectady 

Amsterdam 

Schoharie Creek. . 
Caughnawaga.. . . 
Spraker's Basin . . 

Canajoharie 

Bowman's Creek . 

Little Falls 

Herkimer 

German Flats . . . . 

Frankfort 

Utica 

Whitesboro' 

Oriskany 

Rome 

New-London .... 

Loomis 

Oneida Creek. . . . 

Lenox Basin 

Canastota 

New Boston ..... 

Chitteningo 

Kirkville 

Manlius 

Orville 

Syracuse 

Geddes 

Nine Mile Creek.. 
Camillus 



CANAL ROUTS 










1 


Distance from 


• 

o 

G, 

s 

u 


i 
< 


u 
o 

o 
:/2 




c 

'X. 

o 
m 


d 
o 

O 


•4-) 

m 

o 

o 


• 

o 
o 


1 

• 

Id 

«« 
3 

M 








30 


110 


171 


200270 


333 363 


7 


7 


23 


103 


164 


1931263 


326 356 


2 


9 


21 


101 


162 


191 ,-261 


|324 354 


21 


30 





80 


141 


1701240 


|303 


333 ' 


16 


46 


16 


64 


125 


154 


224 


287 


317 1 


7 


53 


23 


57 


118 


147 


217 


280 


310 


4 


57 


27 


53 


114 


143 


213 


276 


306 


9 


60 


36 


44 


1051134 


204 


267 


297 


3 


69 


39 


41 


102 


131 


201 


264 


294 


3 


72 


42 


38 


99 


128 


198 


261 


291 


16 


88 


58 


22 


83 


112 


182 


245 


275 


7 


95 


65 


15 


76 


105 


175 


238 


268 


2 


97 


67 


13 


74 


103 


173 


236 


266 


o 


100 


70 


10 


71 


100 


170 


233 


263 


10 


110 


SO 





61 


90 


160 


223 


253 


3 


114 


84 


4 


57 


86 


156 


219 


249 \ 


4 


117 


87 


7 


54 


83 


153 


216 


246 


8 


125 


95 


15 


46 


75 


145 


208 


238 


7 


132 


102 


22 


39 


68 


138 


201 


231 


6 


13S 


108 


28 


33 


62 


132 


195 


225 


3 


141 


111 


31 


30 


59 


129 


192 


222 


3 


144 


114 


34 


27 


56 


126 


189 


219 


2 


146 


116 


36 


25 


54 


124 


187 


217 


4 


150 


120 


40, 


21 


50 


120 


183 


213 


4 


154 


124 


44 


17 


46 


116 179 


209 


4 


158 


128 


48 


13 


42 


]12i]75 


205 


4 


162 


132 


52 


9 


38 


108 171 


201 , 


3 




135 


55 


6 


35 


105,168 


198 


6 


171 


141 


61 





29 


99 


162 


192 


2 173'143 


63 


2 


27 


97 


160 


190 





179 149! 


69 


8 


21 


91. 


154 


184 


1 


180 


150 


70 


9 


20 


90 


153 


183 



CANAL ROUTE. 



235 



Distance from 







• 












.Ti 




'5 






C 


» 




2- 
O 


• 


O 




6 


2 
>-> 


Si 


4-2 

o 


o' 


r2 










;2- 


ri 




o 


■»-> 


>^ 


o 


o 


o 


d- 


<I1 


M 


t> 


OJ 


(0. 


Pi 


J 



3 



Canton 

Jordan 

Weed's Port 

Centre Port , 

Port Byron , 

Lakcport 

Clyde...-. , 

Lyons 

Lockville ....... 

Newark 

Port Gibson .... 

Palmyra 

Fair Port 

Fulioni's Basin. ., 

■pittsford 

Rochester 

&pencer's Basin . 

Ogden 

Adams' Basin. . . 

Brockpoit 

Ilolley 

Murray 

Albion 



Portville 

Oak Orchard. 

Medina 

Middleport . . 
Lockport .... 
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Black Rock.. 
BUFFALO.. 



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230 

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236 . CANAL RUUTL MOHAWK CASTLE. 

For a description of Albany, Troy, the Junction, 
Schenectady, Amsterdam, Schoharie Creek and 
Cadghnawaga, see pages 137, 143, 145, 154, 195, 196. 

Anthony's Nose, 8 miles iVoin Cauglmawaga. This 
IS a very abrupt and piominent hill on the south side of 
the canal, having on its top a cavern, which extends to 
a great depth. 

Spraker's Basin, 1. mile farther, is a small village, 
which has recently sprung up on the bank of the canal. 

Canajoharie, 3 miles, {Sec jj. 197.) 

Bowman's Creek, 1 mile. ■ ' 

Fort Plain, 3 miles. {See p. 197.) 

East Canada Creek, 4 miles. This creek enters 

the Mohawk on the north side ; near which Capt. But- { 

ler was killed by the Indians sooniifter his wanton dc- 1 

struction of the village of Cherry Valley. i 

Mohawk Castle, 2 miles. The ruins of an old 
chapel erected for the use of the Mohawk Indians afe • 
still visible at this place, and also some slight remains of 
their once formidable fortifications. 

Three miles farther, as the boat approaches Little 
Falls, the scenery becomes highly picturesque and sub- ' 
lime. On either side are lofty and apparently inacces- I 
sible mountains, affording a narrow pass for the road, j 
river and canal. Indeed, the latter, for a considerable J 
distance, is formed by a-n excavation in the side of the . 
mountain, having a wall of 20 or 30 feet to support its j 
northern embankment. The river hero, for two or 
three miles in extent, descends with much rapidity over 
a rooky and uneven bottom, and exhibits, in some iur 



CANAL ROUTE — WHITESEOROITCH. 237 

stances, an nppoaranci^ not unliko the rapids above the 
falls of the Ningnra. 

LiTTi.E Falls, 5 miles from Mohav/k Castle. (See 
p. 198.) 

After leaving Little Falls, the canal enters a smooth 
and deliolitful level,. .including what are called the Ger- 
man Flats, passing near the village of Herkimer, 7 
miles from the Falls, {see p. 201 ;) from thence to 
Frankfort, 5 miles ; and from thence to Utica, 10 
miles. • 

( For a descnption of Ulica and Trenton Falls, see pages 
202 lo 210.) 

Whitesborough, 4 miles north-west of Utica, i<= a 
bcautifid and wealthy village, located on a rich and fer_ 
tile plain. The principal and most elegant street is a 
short distance from, and runs parallel with the canal ; 
from which, through branches of trees half enshroud- 
ing the village, may be seen several elegant country 
seats. It may be considered, indeed, as better adapted 
for a country residence than a place of business. At 
the eastern extremity of the village is shown the first 
framed house erected in the county of Oneida ; half a 
mile from which, the cannl passes over the Sauquait 
creek. Within 11 railps of the canal, on this creek, 
there are 84 _ mills of various descriptions, inducing 
several factories, some of which cost rising of 5^120,000. 
The York mills, or cotton factories, half a mile soutli of 
the canal, are, considered among the best in the stole, 
and constitute of themselvTt-s, M'ith the h?)uses for labor- 
prs, a compact village. 



238 CANAL ROUTE ROME. 

Oriskant, 3 miles fi-om Whitesborough, is a flour- 
ishing village of about 100 houses. It is situated on 
the Oriskany creek, which here enters the canal as a 
feeder. The Oriskany ATanufactuving Company have 
a woollen factory here, which is the most extensive of 
the kind of any in the state. The capital of the com- 
pany is $200,000, one half of which has been paid in ; 
and the amount of wool annually consumed is 160,000 
pounds. 

Rome, 8 miles. This is a half shire town* of the 
county of Oneida, contains a court house, jail and bank, 
and is pleasantly situated on the north side of the old 
canal connecting Wood creek with the Mohawk, and 
about half a mile north of the Erie canal. It contains 
between 150 and 200 houses, principally located on 
one street, running east and west. The ruins of Fort 
Stanwix, near the village, between Wood creek and the 
Mohawk, are still visible. This fort was erected in 
1758 by the British, was suffered to decay, and was af- 
terwards rebuilt by the Americans during the revolu- 
tion. 15 or 1800 men, including Indians, were sent 
from Montreal by Burgoyne, in 1777, to beseige the 
Fort. They were commanded by tlif^ Baron St. Leger. 
Gen. Herkimer, commandant of the militia of Tryon 
county, (embracing the present counties of Montgom- 
ery and Herkimer,) was sent against them with about 
800 men. On meeting a detachment of Leger's forces, 
the militia mostly fled on the first fire. A few, howev- 
er, remained and fought by the side of Gen. H. who 
was mortally wounded in the road between Whites- 
town and Rome. The Americans lost 160 killed and 
240 wounded. The fort, which Avas commanded by 



CANAL ROUTE SYRACUSE. 239 

Col. Gansevoort, was afterwards assaulted by Leger's 
army; but they were driven oil" by a sortie, directed by 
Col. Willet, and their camp plundered. Subsequently, 
the fort was summoned to surrender ; but through a 
stratagem of Gen. Arnold, who sent two emissaries 
from the camp at Stillwater, an Indian and a white 
man, to inform Leger of the approach of a powerful 
American army for the relief of the besieged, he ordered 
a precipitate retreat to the Oneida lake, leaving all his 
baggage behind. 

An arsenal belonging to the U. S. is situate about 
half a mile west of the village and 300 yards north of 
the canal. 

New London, a small village, is passed, 7 miles from 
Rome; and the village of Loomis, 6 miles farther; 3 
miles from which, the canal crosses the Oneida Creek. 
From theuce to Lenox Basin, is 3 miles; to Canasto- 
TA, a new and flourishing village, 2 miles ; and to New 
Boston, 4 miles. 

• Chitteningo is 4 miles farther. A navigable feeder 
enters the canal at this place. It is taken from the 
Chitteningo creek at the village of that name, a mile 
and a half distant. {See p. 2X2.) From Chitteningo 
to Manlius (see p. 213) is 8 miles ; from thence to Or- 
viUe 3 ;^ and from thence 6 miles to 

Syracusr. The appearance of this village as you 
approach it, is very handsome. It is built on both sides 



* At this place are inexhaustible beds of water lime, 
used for hydraulic cement ; large quanties of which are 
annually exported. 

v2 



240 CANAL ROUTE SALINA. 

of the canal, and the stores and warehouses are sub- 
stantial and lofty. On the left as you come up the ca- 
nal, is one of the most splendid Hotels in the state. 
It is of brick, four or five stories high, and surrounded 
with piazzas. There are also nearly 500 dwellings and 
stores, several handsome churches, a bank, court house 
and jail, and every thing has the appearance of a com- 
mercial bustling town. This thriving village owes its 
importance principally to the immense quantit}' of salt 
produced in its neigborhood, the whole adjacent coun- 
try being impregnated with it, and springs from which 
immense quantities are manufactured rising in various 
directions. A little west of Syracuse, a plain of 300 
acres is nearly covered with vats for the manufacture 
of salt by solar evaporation. The water is brought in 
logs from the great spring at Salina, one mile distant, 
and supplies, with very little attention, the various 
ranges of vats. A light roof is constructed to each vat, 
which can be shoved off or on at pleasure, to permit the 
rays of the sun to act upon the wate^-, or to prevent the 
dampness of the atmosphere from commingling there- 
with. The salt is taken out of these vats twice or 
three times during the warm season, and removed to 
store houses ; from whence it is conveyed in barrels to 
the canal for transportation. 

Salina is one and a half mile north of Syracuse, and 
though not on the usually travelled route to the west, 
should be visited for the purpose of examining the prin- 
cipal spring, and the various salt establishments con- 
nected therewith. A packet constantly plies between 
the villages on a lateral canal, aff^ording an easy and 
pleasant mode of conveyance. 



CANAL ROUTE — SALINA. 241 

The spring at Salina was first discovered by the In- 
lians many years since, by being the resort of deer and 
other animals. The first wliite settlers were in the 
habit of boiling the water in small vessels for domestic 
purposes. Since then, the spring has been excavated 
to a very considerable depth, and afibrds the strongest 
saline water yet discovered in the wot id, 40 gallons 
jrielding about a bushel of pure salt. The water is for- 
ced up to the top of an adjoining hill by a powerful hy- 
draulian driven by the surplus v/aters from the Oswego 
canal, which conmiences at this place. The salt wa- 
ter is in this way conveyed 85 feet above the canal to 
a large reservoir, into which it is discharged at the rate 
of 300 gallons per minute. It is hence carried to the 
diflerent factories in Salina and Syracuse. Of these 
there are about 100 at Salina and 30 at Syracuse ; 
there are also 26 at Liverpool, about 6 miles north-west 
of Salina, and about 30 at Geddes, 2 miles west of 
Syracuse. The works and springs all belong to the 
state , to which imposts are payable to the amount of 63 
cents per barrel of 5 bushels,* and every manufacturer 
pays two cents per bushel for the use of the water. The 
water is conveyed from the reservoir to the different 
manufactories and evaporating fields, by means of 
wooden pipes. The salt is manufactured generally by 
boiling and evaporation. There are, however, two es- 
tablishments in which it is made in large M^ooden vats 
by means of hot air passing through them in large me- 
talic pipes. The manufactories contain from 1 5 to 40 



* These duties are applied by the constitution of the 
state towards the extinguishment of the canal debt. 



242 CANAL ROUTE — GEDDES. 

potash kettles, under each of which a constant fire is 
kept up, so that the water may not cease to boil. The 
first deposit of the water is thrown away. The pure 
salt soon after makes its appearance, and is refined for 
the table by means of blood, milk, rosin, &c. The 
springs are considered as inexhaustible ; and the a- 
mount of salt manufactured annually is about 1,600,- 
000 bushels. 

Salina is a flourisliing village, but of "less magni- 
tude than Syracuse ; though from the rapidly increas- 
ing growth of both, it is not improbable that they will 
ere long become a continuous town. A fine view of 
the Onondaga Lake, about a mile distant, is had from 
the place. It is six miles long and two broad. At its 
north-western extremity is seen the pleasant village of 
Liverpool, of more recent origin, but promising to be- 
come a place of some importance. Gypsum and petri- 
factions are found in great quantities in the vicinity of 
the lake. 

The Oswego Canal, from the Onondaga lake to 
Lake Ontario at Oswego, is 38 miles long, including 20 
miles of the Oswego river, on which are several locks 
and dams. The whole lockage of the canal and river 
is 123 feet. 

Geddes, 2 miles by canal from Syracuse, is becom- 
ing a place of some importance, in consequence of the 
recent discovery of several valuable salt springs. They 
are mostly within a few rods of the canal, as well as 
numerous establishments for the manufacture of salt, 
A short distance west of the village, a fine prospect is 
had of the Onondaga lake and the villages of Liverpool 
and Salina, on its northern and eastern shores. 



CANAL ROUTE LAKE PORT. 243 

Nine Mile Creek, 6 miles from Geddes. It is a 
stream of some magnitude, and is crossed by the canal, 
over two arches. 

Camillus, 1 mile. 

Canton, a small village, 5 miles. 

Jordan, 6 miles. A short distance east of the vil- 
laofc, the canal crosses the Jordan creek. 

"Weed's Port, 6 miles. A thriving village of 80 or 
90 houses. A stage can be taken her-e daily for Au- 
burn, 7 miles south. {See p. 215.) 

Centre Port, 1 mile. 

Port Btron, 2 miles. The canal here crosses the 
Owasco creek, a stream issuing from a lake of that 
name 2 miles south of Auburn. The state prison is 
erected on the bank of this creek, the waters of which 
are used for propelling the machinery. 

Five miles farther are the Montezuma salt works, 
about I of a mife north of the canal, with a lateral cut 
leading thereto ; one mile from which is the small vil- 
lage of 

Lake Port. The western section of the canal (con- 
tradistinguished from the middle and eastern sections) 
commences at this place. From Utica to Lake Port, 
the mean descent of the canal is 45 feet ; aind there are 
9 locks, ascending and descending. From Lake Port 
to Lockport the ascent is 185 feet, and the number of 
intervening locks 21. The waters of the canal at the 
former place arc remarkably pure and chrystaline in 
their appearance, not unfrequently exhibiting large 
quantities of fish at their bottom. 



244 CANAL ROUTE — FULLOM'S BASIN. 

One mile from Lake Port, the canal enters the Mon- 
tezuma maiplics, 3 milt^s in extent These marshei^ 
ar^ formofl by the outlets of the Cayiiga and Senecfi 
lakes, and exhibit a most dreary, desolate and stagnant 
appearance. The water is generally from 4 to 8 feet 
deep, and the bottom covered with long gi*ass, the usu- 
al growth of swamps, extending frequently to the sur- 
face. A long bridge is used for a tow path over a part 
of these marshes. Shortly after leaving them, the ca- 
nal crosses and unites with the outlet of the Canandai- 
gua lake, a slugglish stream,, which, with the outlets of 
Cayuga and Seneca, soon form the Seneca river, which 
enters Lake Ontario at Qgwego. 

Clyde, 11 miles from Lake Port, is a flourishing vil- 
lage, containing glass works. From thence to Lyons, 
a handsome village, is 9 miles ; and from thence to 
LocKviLLE 6 miles, to Newark 1 mile, and to Port 
Gibson 3 miles. 

Palmyra, 8 miles farther, is a thriving village in 
Wayne county. It is built chiefly on a wide street 
along the south bank of the canal, and is a place of 
considerable trade. Mud creek runs eastward, about 
40 rods north of the main street, and the canal passes 
bftween the creek and the street. There are several 
factories and mills on this creek. Palmyra and Port 
Gibson are landing places for goods designed for Can^- 
andaigua. 

Fair Port, 1 1 miles. 

Fullom's Basin, 12 miles. From this place to Roch- 
ester, by canal, is 16 miles ; while the distance by land 
is but 7^. Tr;iV(llf»ry, arcordini'lv ^^h" have ?een th« 



CANAt ROUTE — ROCHESTEU. 245 

Great Enibankinent over the Irondcfjuoil creek, fre- 
quently take a stage, to shorten the excursion ; but 
those who have never passed over this artificial work, 
should continue on the canal route. The embankment 
is reached in about 4 miles from Fjullom's Basin, and is 
continued for nearly two miles at an average height of 
about 70 feet. The novelty of a passage at so great 
an elevation, is much increased in the fine prospect af- 
forded of the surrounding' country. Two miles from 
the embankment, is the handsome village of 

PiTTSFORD, containing about 100 houses and several 
stores ; and 10 miles farther is the flourishing and im- 
portant village of ' 

' ROCHESTER. 

It is situated on the east and west side of the Gene- 
see river, which, at this place, is 50 yards wide, and is 
crossed by 2 substantial bridges within the limits of the 
village. On the north side of the lower bridge, the lo- 
cal distinction of East and West Rochester have been 
in a measure annihilated, by the erection of the Market 
and Exchange buildings over the Genesee, making the 
twain a continued village. Within its limits are two of 
the six falls on the river; the upper a small fall of 12 
feet at the foot of the ^japids, and immediately above 
the canal aqueduct; and the other the great fall of 97 
feet, about 30 rods below. From a point of rock near 
the centre of these falls, at the foot of a small island, 
and from an elevation of about 125 feet above the water 
l)elow, the celebrated Sam Patch made his last and fatal 
leap in the autumn of 1829. His body was not found 



246 CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 

until the following spring, when it was discovered at 
the mouth of the Genesee river, 6 miles below. 

From a complete wilderness, Rochester has been re- 
deemed in the comparatively short period of a little 
more than 20 years, the first settlement having been 
made in 1812, Its situation in the immediate vicinity 
of the canal, and only 7 miles from Lake Ontario, with 
a ship navigation vvdthin two miles of the town, enables 
its inhabitants to .select a market either at New- York, 
Gluebec, or on the borders of the great western lakes ; 
and the many other natural advantages wliich it enjoys 
for trade and manufactures, destines it to become one 
of the most important places in the interior of the state. 
The population of Rochester at the census taken in the 
fall of 1S27, v/as 10,818, making an increase of more 
than 3,000 within the preceding year; and the number 
of buildings was 1474, 352. of which had been built the 
season previous. Its present population is estimated at 
13,000, and its number of buHdings at 2,000. The 
Erie canal strikes the river in the south part of the 
village, and after following the eastern l^tik for half a 
mile, crosses the river in the centre of the village, in a 
splendid aqueduct, which cost rising of $80,000. Tliis 
aqueduct is constructed of red free stone, and from the 
eastern extremity of its parapet walls to the western 
termination, is 804 feet lon^. It is built on eleven" 
arches ; one of 2G, one of 30, and nine of 50 feet chord, 
under which water passes for flouring mills and other 
hydraulic establishments. The piers, wliich are placed 
on solid rock, in the bed of the river, are 4 2, and the 
arches resting thereon 11 feet high. On the north wall, 
v/hich is of sufficient thickness for the towing path, is 



CANAL ROUTE — ROCHESTER. 247 

an iron railing'; and at the west end, the whole is ter- 
minated by a highway and towing path bridge, of the 
most solid and elegant workmanship. The canal is 
supplied by a navigable feeder from the Genesee, 
through which boats may enter and ascend the river 
from 80 to 90 miles. The height of the canal at Roch- 
ester above the tide waters of the Hudson is 501 feet ; 
above Lake Ontario, 270 feet ; and below Lake Erie 
64 feet. 

Among the public buildings in the village, are a court 
house, gaol, 11 churches, 2 markets, 2 banks and a 
museum, together with two valuable institutions, the 
Franklin Institute and Athenenm. The Globe build- 
ings, a majestic pile, built of the most durable materi- 
als, and rising from the water's edge, are 5 stories, ex- 
clusive of attics, with between 130 and 140 apartments 
suitable for workshops, (having a sufficient water pow- 
er for each,) and several stores. The principal public 
houses are the Rochester House, Clinton House, Eagle 
Tavern, Mansion House and Arcade House. There is 
also a daily and several weekly newspapers. 

Within the limits of the village are ] 1 flouring mills, 
containing 53 run of stones, capable of manufacturin£r 
2,500 bushels of flour and consuming more than 12,000 
bushels of wheat every, 24 hours-. Some of the mills 
are on a scale of magnitude perhaps not equalled in the 
world. One of them contains more than four acres of 
flooring, and all are considered unrivalled in the perfec- 
tion of their machinery. The immense water power at 
this place opens a wonderful field for-labor saving ma- 
chinery, among which are many ingenious operations, 

w 



648 CANAL ROUTE ROCHESTER. , 

I 

well worthy the inspection of the curious in those mat- j 
ters. ' 

The Arcade is 100 feet in front, 135 feet in depth, ' 
and 4 stories his^h, exclusive of the attic and basement, j 
It has 6 stores in front, with a large opening for a pas- i 
sage to the Arcade, where the post office, atheneum, j 
arcade house, and a variety of offices are located. From I 
the centre arises an observatory in the form of a Chi- | 
nese Pagoda, which overlooks the surrounding country ; 1 
and in clear weather the lake can be seen like a strip \ 
of blue cloud in the horizon. The front of this edifice 
is stuccoed, in imitation of marble, except the first sto- 
ry, which is of the Oswego red free stone. - j 

The geological structure of this region can be easily i 
traced, and is beautifully illustrated in the banks of the 1 
river, which are from 100 to 200 feet in height, with a 
descent of 270 feet to the lake. At Carthage, two miles 
below, are a great variety of petrifactions, which have 
been blasted from the rocks in forming a canal for mill 
privileges. Seven miles from Rochester, a part of the 
way on the ridge road, on the east side of the river, is | 
Irondequoit bay, with a high sand ridge running across I 
it, except about two rods, where there is a channel ; j 
the shore is fine and sandy, and equals any in America jj 
for bathing. The bay is also celebrated for fishing and! 
fowling. I 



I 



Stages leave Rochester daily, by way of Palmyra, ', 
Weed's Port, Syracuse, Cherry Valley and Schoharie j 
for Jllhany, 217 miles; and by way of Canandaigua, j 
Geneva, Auburn, Skaneateles, Onondaga, Utica, Little! 
Falls and Schenectady, for Albany, 237 miles. They, 
also leave daily, by way of Lewiston (passing over the 



CANAL ROCTE CARTHAGE. 24 

ridge road) and Niagara Falls, for Buffalo, 104 miles;* 
and by way of Caltsdouia, Lc Roy and Balavia, for 
Buffido, 77 miles. 

Packet Boats also leave Rochester every morning 
for Buffalo and for Albany. 

A Steam Boat constantly plies during the summer 
season between Lewiston on the Niagara and Ogdens- 
burgh on the St. Lawrence river, touching at Hanford's 
Landing, 3 miles from Rochester, by which passages 
may be had to the Falls or Montreal once a week. 
[Tiiis route is noticed more fully under the head of Lake 
Ontario.] 

Before leaving Rochester, (unless the ridge road or 
steam boat route should be taken,) the traveller will 
jind it an object of interest to visit 

Carthage, 2 miles down the Genesee river. This 
village derived its consequence from an elegant bridge, 
which, during its existence, formed the most eligible 
route to the western part of the state. The bridge was 
erected across the river just below the basin of the 
falls, which are 70 feet. It consisted of a single arch, 
whose chord measured 300 feet. The distance from 
the centre to the river was 250 feet. This stupendous 
fabric stood a short time after its construction, and at 
length fell under the nressure of its own weight. One 



* The ridge road commences 2g miles from Roches- 
ter, over which the following are the intervening dis- 
tances between that place and Buffalo : Carthage Falls 
2 miles, Parma 9, Clarkson 7, Murray 7, Ridgeway 15, 
Hartland 10, Cambria 12, Lewiston 12, Niagara Falls 
7, Buffalo 22, 



250 CANAL ROUTE ALEIOM. 

of the abutments is still standing ; and from its situation, 
visitants may judge of the former position of theLridge, 
and the almost impious presumption of man in attempt- 
ing to overcome height, space, gravity, and the resist- 
less fury of the elements. Sloops from the lake, 5 miles 
distant, ascend up the river to these'falls; where they 
are laden and unladen by m«ang of an inchned plane — 
the descending weight being made to raise a lighter 
one by its superior gravity. 

The or eat western level on the canal commences two 
miles east of Rochester ; from whence to Lockport, a 
distance of 65 miles, there is no lock. Between the 
two villages, the route was orignally through a wilder- 
ness. But new villages are springing up on the banks 
of the canal ; and appearances indicate, that the forests 
on the whole line will ere long give place to cultivation 
and compact settlements. 

Spencer's Basin, a small village, is 10 miles from 
Rochester ; from thence to Ogden is 2 miles, and to 
Adams' Basin 3 miles. 

Brockport is 5 miles farther. The village contains 
from 100 to 150 houses ; and the number is rapidly in- 
creasing. 

HoLLET, 5 miles. A short distance east of the vil- 
lage is the Holley Emhankment and culvert, over Sandy 
creek, elevating the canal 87 feet above the level of the 
creek. 

Murray, 2 miles. 

Albion, 8 miles : a flourishing village of about 150 
houses. 



CANAL ROUTE LOCKPORT. 551 

PoRTviLLE, 4 miles. Four miles farther in the town 
of Ridgeway, a public road passes under the canal, 
through a handsome arch ; one mile from which, is the 
village of 

Oak Orchard, on the bank of a creek of that name. 
The canal here crosses the creek over the largest arch 
on the whole route. There are circular steps leading 
to the bottom ; from whence is a foot path passing un- 
derneath and leading to the village. As the boat " waits 
For no man," passengers desirous of seeing this artifi- 
cial work, should go ashore before reaching it, and gain 
time by a rapid walk. They can be received on board 
again at the village, where the boat stops to land and 
receive passengers. 

Medina, 1 mile, 

MiDDLEPORT, 6 miles. 

LocKPORT, 12 miles. By far the most gigantic works 
on the whole line of the canal are at this place. After 
travelling between 60 and 70 miles on a perfect level, 
the traveller here strikes the foot of the " Mountain 
Ridse," which is surmounted bj- 5 magnificent locks of 
12 feet each, connected with 5 more of equal dimen- 
sions for descending — so that while one boat is raised 
to an elevation of 60 feet, another is seen sinking into 
the broad basin below. The locks are of the finest 
imaginable workmanship, with stone steps in the centre 
and on either side, guarded with iron railings, for the 
convenience and safety of passengers. Added to this 
stupendous work, an excavation is continued through 
the mountain ridge, composed of rock, a distance of 
three miles, at an average depth of 20 feet. "SVhen 
w2 



252 CAKAL ROUTE — LOCKPORT. 

viewing this part of the canal, we are amazed with the 
consideration of what may be accomplished by human 
means. 

The village of Lockport is partly located on the 
mountain ridge, immediately above the locks, and partly 
below; and though "founded on a rock," surrounded 
with rocks, and with little or no soil, it has already be- 
come a place of much importance. In 1821 , there were 
but ^ houses in the place ; now there are between 4 and 
500, and nearly 4000 inhabitants. The village also 
contains a bank, and several commodious public houses. 
The canal here being on the highest summit level, and 
supplied with water from lake Erie, (distant 30 miles,) 
an abundance is obtained for hydraulic purposes, afford- 
ing to the village a lasting and permament power for 
mills and manufactories of various kinds. 

In the excavation through the mountain, several min- 
erals were discovered ; among wliich were some of the 
finest specimens of dog tooth spar ever found in the U. 
States. At first they were easily obtained ; but they 
have lately become an object of profit, and are sold at 
prices corresponding with their beauty. 

Seven miles from Lockport,* at Pendleton, the ca- 
nal enters the Tonnewanta creek, and continues there- 
in 12 miles to its mouth, at Tonawanda, where is a 
dam 4 1 feet high. From thence it is continued on the 



* Passengers in packets, who wish tovisitthe Falls, 
generally take a stage at Lockport, and proceed direct- 
ly to Manchester (the American Fall) 23 miles distant, 
or to Lewiston, 7 mdcs belov»- the Falls ; visiting the 
latter afterwards. 



CANAL ROUTE BUFFALO. 253 

bank of the Niagara 8 miles to Black Rock, (noticed 
in a subsequent page) where it unites with the harbor, 
und from thence on the bank of the river S miles, to 
Buffalo. 

BUFFALO 

Is situated at the outlet of Lake Erie. It is a beau- 
tiful and thriving town, and with the advantages of 
both a natural and artificial navigation, it is destined to 
become one of the most important places in the state. 
Its present population is estimated at upwards of 7000, 
and the number of buildings at rising of 1000. The 
Erie canal commences in this village, near the outlet of 
the Buffalo creek, and passes through an extensive and 
perfectly level plot, equidistant from t!ie shore of the 
lake and the high grounds called the Terrace. From 
the canal are ciit,.-at very suitable distances, lateral ca- 
nals and basins, I'endering the whole of the lower toion 
contiguous to -water communication. Stores and ware- 
houses are so constructed as to receive the boats along 
side. In its location, Buffalo is in the midst of the en- 
terprize and business of this new world. All the man- 
^ifactures and migrating population from the north and 
€ast here find a resting place, and the agricultural pro- 
ducts of the ivest, coming from the long extended 
lakes, here seek a new avenue to the Atlantic. The 
loioer toion will soon be spread over that part below the 
Terrace, where begins a gentle and equal rise of ground, 
continuing nearly and perhaps quite two miles, and 
then falls away to a perfect level as far as the eye can 
reach, bounded only by the horizon. Upon this eleva- 
ted Ground there is a charming view of the lake, Niag- 



4tT 

254 BrpFALO. 

ara river, the canal with all its branches, the BiifTaio 
creek, the town itsalf, and the Canada shore ; a pros- 
pect from which every one parts with reluctance. The 
streets are very broad, and passing from high grounds 
over the Terrace to the water, are intersected with 
cross streets. There are three public squares of some 
extent, which add much to the beauty of the town. 
The public buildings are a court-house, situated on the 
highest part of Main-street, well proportioned and 
handsomely ornamented. The Presbyterian meeting 
house, standing near the Episcopal church upon a semi- 
circular common on Main-street, is an edifice of very 
commanding appearance. There are many spacious 
hotels for the accommodation of the traveller ; among 
which, the Eagle Tavern, kept by Mr. Rathbun, is con- 
sidered one of the best in the union. 

The place, (then a village) was burnt by the British 
in 1314, when there was butone house left standing. 
This is still pointed out in the upper part of the town. 
It was not until considerable time had elapsed after this, 
that Bnffilo began to be rebuilt, nor imtil the canal was 
located, did it rise with much promise. It is now a 
city, having been incorporated as such in 1832, is rapid- 
ly rising into importance, and will become inevitably 
the Liverpool of Western New- York. Tw^o years have 
made more improvements in that place than in any 
other town of the ,west. A ship canal is in progress, 
80 feet wide and 13 ft^et deep, across from the harbor, 
near the outlet of BufEilo creek to the canal, a distance 
of about 700 yards, to be completed the present s-ason, 
(1833.) Also a boat canal commencing at the Big Buf- 
falo creek, near Mr. Kip's railway, to the Little Buffalo 



BUFFALO, 255 

creek, a distance of 1,600 feet. Several large blocks of 
fire proof brick buildings have been recently erected, 
and more are in daily progress. 

As this place was the theatre of important events 
during the last M'^ar,"the w^riter had expected to find ia 
the village church yard some monuments to the memo- 
ry of the brave M'ho fell during that period. But he 
discovered only one ; it contained the following inscrip- 
tion : " To the memory of Maj. Wm. Howe Cutler, 
who was killed at Black Rock by a shot from the 
enemy, on the night of the 9th October, 1812, while 
humanely administering to the relief of the wounded 
soldiers, who intrepidly crossed to the British shore, 
and brought over the Adams frigate, that had been sur- 
rendered by Gen. Hull, and the Caledonia ship belong- 
ing to the enemy. He was in the 35th year of his age, 
and son of the late Henry Cuylcr, Esq. of Greenbush, 
in this state." 

The Seneca Village, settled by a tribe of about 300 
Indians, is from 3 to 4 miles south east of Buffalo, and 
'is usually visited by strangers. The tribe own a valu- 
able tract of land, bordering on the BvifTalo creek ; 
which, under the management of the whites, would yield 
luxuriantly ; but, in the hands of its present proprietors, 
is but partially improved. Red Jacket, a celebrated chief 
of this nation, died in 1829, at an advanced age. 

Stages leave Buffalo every morning and evening for 
TJtica — the morning line going through by dav-light in 
3 days— the evening, day and night, in two days. A 
line also runs daily to Rochester. 



256 WESTERN LARES. 

THE WESTERN LAKES. 
Before proceeding down the Niagara river to the 
Falls, it may be interesting to tourists to examine a brief 
description of the great chain of lakes whose waters 
flow through this channel. It will give a more ade- 
quate idea of the vast amount of waters which are uni- 
ted in this stupendous river. 

Lake Superior, the first and westernmost of these 
inland seas, lies between 46° and 43° of north latitude, 
and between 84*^ and 93° west longitude from London. 
Its length is 459, and its average width 109 miles. 
About 40 small and 3 large rivers enter into this lake, 
on one of which, just before its entrance, are perpen- 
dicular falls of more than 600 feet. The w^ater of the 
lake is remarkably transparent, so much so, that a ca- 
noe over the depth of six fathoms seems rather suspen- 
ded in air than resting on the water. The outlet of the 
lake is called the river St. Marie, which is 90 miles 
long, its waters flowing into 

Lake Huron. This lake is on the boundary between 
the U. States and Canada, 218 miles long from cast to 
west, and 180 bread. Besides the waters of Lake Su- 
perior, it receives the waters of 

Lake Michigan, which is 300 miles long and about 
50 miles wide. At its northwr^st corner a large inlet 
opens, called Green Bay, about 100 miles long, and 
from 15 to 20 broad, into whicli Fox river empties. 
Three miles from the mouth of this river is Green Bay 
village, a very considerable settlement, and a TJ. States 
military post, called Fort Howard. The fort is built of 
stone, and is on a beautiful rising ground. Steam-boats 



WESTERN LAKES. 557 

from Buffalo visit this place occasionally during the 
summer — distance 807 miles. Besides the Fox, the St. 
Joseph and Grand, two very important rivers, and in- 
numerable smaller streams, discharge their waters into 
Lake Michigan. 

Near the mouth of the straits which unite the Michi- 
gan with the Huron lake, and within the latter, is the 
island of Michilimackinac, commonly called Mackinaw, 
distinguished as a military post during the French war, 
and occupied as such by the government of the U. S. 
at the present time. The island is about 9 miles in cir- 
cumference ; the village of Mackinaw, which is on its 
south east side, is surrounded with a steep cliff 150 feet 
high. On the top of this cliff stands a fort ; half a mile 
from wliich, on another summit, 300 feet above the lev- 
el of the lake, is Fort Holmes, commanding an exten- 
sive prospect of both lakes, Mackinaw is 180 miles. 
NE. of Fort Howard, 313 N. of Detroit, and 627 NW. 
of Buffalo. 

The waters of these lakes thus congregated, enter 
the St. Clair river, 40 miles long, to the St. Clair Lake, 
which is about 90 miles in circumference. From this 
lake they enter the Detroit river, on which the city of 
Detroit* stands, 9 miles below the lake, and communi- 
cate with Lake Erie, 19 miles from Detroit. 



* In the year 181 1, a passage from Buffalo to Detroit, 
usually required from 5 to 7 days — some were made in 
less time, but in cases of head winds, the time was fre- 
quently longer. These passages were generally in 
schooners, the most of which were comfortably fitted up, 
and well provided. Travellers and merchants were, 



25S FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA. 

Lake Erie is on the boundary line between the U.S. 
and Upper Canada. It is 290 miles long from SW. to 
NE., and in the widest part, 63 broad. Besides the 
waters of the upper lakes, it receives the Ca} ahoga riv- 
er and several tributary streams. 

Such are the sources of the Niagara ; a river infe- 
rior in splendor to none, perhaps, in the world. 

FROM BUFFALO TO NIAGARA FALLS,- 

on the AiJiencan side, 

A stage leaves Buffalo every morning at 6 o'clock, 
passing through the village of Black Rock 3 miles, 
Tonawanda 9 miles, (where the canal enters the Ton- 
newanta creek,) Niagara Falls 11 miles. Fare $\. 
This line, after giving passengers an opportunity of 
witnessing the Falls for 2 or 3 hours, proceeds to 
Youngstown, or Fort Niagara, passing through Lew- 
iston. 

On the Canada side. 

A stage leaves Buffalo, daily, at S A. M. passe- 
through Black Rock 3 miles, crosses the ferry to Water- 



however, not unfrequently, obliged to wait ten days for 
the appearance of a v^essel, or a fair wind. Now trips 
are made in steamboats in about 40 hours, one leaving 
each extremity of the lake every day. There are six or 
eight first rate steamers composing the line, and several 
others on different parts of the lake. In proceeding 
from Buffalo to Detroit, the boats land passengers at 
Erie, 90 ndles — Grand River, 60 — Cleveland, 30 — and 
at SandusKy, 55 — from whence to Detroit is 71 miles — 
total 305 miles. Fare, m ojibin, $15. Boats also leave 
Bufialo daily for Erie, Penn. touching at Dunkirk and 
Portland. 



FORT EUIE. 259 

loo, 1 mile, and proceeds to Chippewa baltle ground 15 
miles, Chippewa village 1 mile, Niagara Falls 2 miles. 
Fare, including ferriage, $1,12. Stages leave Niagara 
at 3 P. M. for dueenston and Fort George. 

A steam-boat leaves Buffalo every morning at 8 o'- 
clock, passing every other day around Grand Island, 
and reaches the village of Chippewa about noon ; from 
w hence passengers take stages for the Falls. The boat 
returns to Buffalo at 7 P. M. Fare each way $1. 

Black Rock, 3 miles from Buffalo, is a village of 
considerable magnitude on the west bank of the Niaga- 
ra river. It was burnt by the British in 1814 ; but has 
been rebuilt, and is much increased from its former size. 
Among its most prominent buildings is the private 
mansion of Gen. Peter B. Porter, late secretary of war, 
which has a very handsome appearance from the water. 
A pier in the river, about 2 miles long, affords a harbor 
to the village, and is used as a part of the grand canal. 
The dam, however, has been found insufficient to with- 
stand the force of the current. Repeated injuries are 
sustained, and vessels now seldom enter the harbor. 
The Niagara river is here one mile wide, and is cross- 
ed in a horse boat. Opposite Black Rock, on the Can- 
ada side, is the small village of 

Water.loo ; a little south of which stand the ruins 
of Fort Erie, rendered memorable as the theatre of 
several severe engagements during the last war. The 
last and most decisive battle fought at this place, was 
on the night of the 15th of August, 1814. The fort 
was occupied by the Americans ; and its possession 
was considered an object of importance to the British. 

X 



260 CHIPPEWA BATTLE GUOUiND. 

Taking advantage of the darkness of the night, they 
made repeated and furious assaults, and were as often 
repulsed ; until, at length, they succeeded, by superior 
force, in gaining a bastion. After maintaining it for a 
short time, at the expense of many lives, accident placed 
it again in the hands of the Americans. Several car- 
tridges which had been placed in a stone building ad- 
joining exploded, producing tremendous slaughter and 
death among the British. They soon retreated, leav- 
ing on the field 221 killed, among whom were Cols. 
Scott and Drummond, 174 wounded, and 186 prisoners. 
The American loss was 17 killed, 58 wounded, and 11 
missing. 

This action was followed by a splendid sortie near 
the fort on the 1 7th of the following month, which re- 
sulted in a loss to the British of nearly 1000, including 
385 prisoners, and to the Americans of 511 killed, 
wounded and missing. 

From Waterloo to Chippewa Battle Ground is 
15 miles, over a tolerably good, though sandy road. 

The Battle of Chippeioa was fought on the 5th of July, 
1814, and has been described as one of the most bril- 
liant spectacles that could well be conceived. The 
day (says a writer) was clear and bright ; and the plain 
such as might have been selected for a parade or a 
tournament ; the troops on both sides, though not nu- 
merous, admirably disciplined ; the generals leading on 
their columns in person ; the glitter of the arms in the 
sun, and the precision and distinctness of every move- 
ment, were all calculated to carry the mind back to 
the scenes of ancient story or poetry— to the plains of 
Latium or of Troy, and all those recollections which fill 



CHIPPEWA VILLAGE. 201 

the imagination with images of personal heroism and 
romantic valor. 

After some skirmishing, the British Indians were 
discovered in the rear of the American camp. Gen. 
Porter, with his volunteers and Indians, were directed 
to scour in the adjoining forest. This force had nearly 
debouched from the woods opposite Chippewa, when 
it was ascertained that the whole British force, under 
Gen. Riall, had crossed the Chippewa bridge. Gen.. 
Brow'n gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance 
with his brigade, and to Gen. Ripley to be in readiness 
to support. In a few minutes the British line was dis- 
covered formed and rapidly advancing, their right on 
the woods, and their left on the river. Their object 
was to gain the bridge across a small creek in front of 
the American encampment, which, if done, would have 
compelled the Americans to retire. This bridge, how- 
ever, was soon gained by Gen. Scott and crossed, un- 
der a tremendous fire of the British artillery, and his 
line formed. The British orders were to give one vol- 
ley at a distance, and immediately charge. But such 
was the warmth of our musqueti-y that they could not 
withstand it, and were obliged to retreat before the ap- 
pearance of E-ipley's brigade, which had been directed 
to make a movement through the woods upon the ene- 
my's right flank. The British recrossed the Chippewa 
bridge, which they broke down on their retreat, having 
suffered a loss in killed, wounded and missing, of 514. 
The American loss was 328. 

Chippewa Village is one mile north of the battle 
ground. It contains a small cluster of buildings and a 
few mills situate on the Chippewa creek, which runs 



262 



EKIDGEWATER. 



tlirough the village. The steam-boat from Buffalo 
lands passengers at this place.* One mile farther is 

Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane, celebrated as the 
ground on which an important battle was fought, 20 
days after the battle of Chippewa. The scene of ac- 
tion was near the mighty cataract of Niagara, within 
the sound of its thunders, and was, in proportion to the 
numbers engaged, the most sanguinary, and decidedly 
the best fought of any action which ever took place on 
the American continent. The following letter, written 
by a surgeon of one of the regiments, the day after the 
engagement, contains many interesting particulars : 

" In the afternoon the enemy advanced towards 
Chippewa with a powerful force. At 6 o'clock Gen. 
Scott was ordered to advance with his brigade and at- 
tack them. He was soon reinforced by General Rip- 
ley's brigade ; they met the enemy below the falls. 
They had selected their ground for the night, intend- 
ing to attack our camp before da^'-light. The action 
began just before 7, and an uninterrupted stream of 
musketry continvied till half past 8, when there was 
some cessation, the British falling back. It soon be- 
gan again with some artillery, which, with slight inter- 
ruptions, continued till half past 10, when there was a 
charge, and a tremendous stream of fire closed the con- 
flict. Both armies fought with a desperation bordering 
on madness ; neither would yield the palm, but each 
retired a short distance, wearied out with fatigue. 



♦ A steam-boat also runs from this place on the Can- 
ada side of Lake Erie, to Detroit, 



BRIDGEWATER. 2()3 

Such a constant and destructive fire was never before 
sustained by American troops without falling back, 

" The enemy had collected their whole force in the 
peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord 
Wellington's army, just landed from Kingston. For 
two hours the two hostile lines were within 20 yards of 
each other, and so frequently intermingled, that often 
an officer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon 
shone bright ; but part of our men being dressed like 
the Glengarian regiment caused the deception. They 
frequently charged, and were as o'Jten driven back. 
Our regiment, under Colonel Miller, was ordered to 
storm the British battery. We charged, and took eve- 
ry piece of the enemy's cannon. We kept possession 
of the ground and cannon until 12 o'clock at night, 
when we all fell back more than 2 miles. This was 
done to secure oin* camp, which might othei wise have 
been attacked in the rear. Our horses being most of 
them killed, and there being no ropes to the pieces, we 
got ofFbut two or three. The men were so excessive- 
ly fatigued they could not drag them. We lost one 
howitzer; the horses being on full gallop towards the 
enemy to attack them, the riders were shot off and the 
horses ran through the enemy's line. We lost one 
piece of cannon, which was too much advanced, every 
man being shot that had charge of it but two. Seve- 
ral of our caissons were blown up by their rockets, 
which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of 
ammunition. The lines were so near that cannon 
could not be used with advantage." 

The British loss in killed, wounded and prisoners 
was 878 ; and the American loss 860, 
x2 



26i NIAGARA FALLS. 

The road to the falls passes directly over the hi!l 
where the Biitish artillery was posted at the t'lmo 
Scott's brinrade commenced the action ; and the houses 
in the villaofe of Bridorewater — the trees and fences in 
the vicinity, still retain marks of the combat. Many 
graves are seen upon the hill ; among others, that of 
Capt. Hull, son of the late Gen. Hull, who distinguish- 1 
ed himself and fell in this action. Most of the slain 
were collected and burned upon the battle ground ; on 
which spot it is in contemplation to erect a church. 

Burning Spring. 

About half a mile north of Lundy's Lane, and within 
a few feet of the rapids in the Niagara river, is a Burn- 
ing Spring. The water is warm and surcharged witli 
sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The water rises in a bar- 
rel, which is covered, and the gas escapes through a 
tube. On applying a candle to the tube, the gas takes 
fire, and burns with a brilliant flame until blown out ; 
and on closing the building for a short time in which 
the spring is contained, and afterwards entering it with 
a lighted candle, an explosion may be produced. A 
small fee for the exhibition is required by the keeper of 
the spring. 

Half a mile from the Burning Spring are the cele- 
brated 

NIAGARA FALLS. 

They are situated on the Niagara river, which 
unites the waters of Lake Erie and the upper lakes 
with Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence. The river is 
35 miles in length, and from half a mile to 5 or 6 miles in 
width. The banks of the river vary in their height 



NIAGARA FALLS. 265 

above the Falls, from 1 to 100 feet. Immediatoly be- 
low the Falls, the precipice is not less than 300 feet, 
and from thence toLakeOntarioit gradually diminishes 
to the heiorht of 25 or 30 feet. The Niagara river con- 
tains a number of islands, the principal of which is 
Grand Island, Mhich was ceded to the state of New- 
York by the Seneca nation of Indians, in 1815. For 
the grant the state paid $1000 down, and secured an 
annuity of $500. This island is 12 miles long, and 
from 2 to 7 broad. 

The Falls are situated below Grand Island, about 20 
miles distant from Lake Erie, and 14 from Lake Onta- 
rio. At Chippewa creeli, 2 miles above the Falls, the 
width of the river is nearly 2 miles, and its current ex- 
tremely rapid. From thence to the Falls it gradually 
narrows to about 1 mile in width. The descent of the 
rapids has been estimated at 58 feet. The coui*se of the 
river above the Falls is north-westwardly, and below it 
turns abruptly to the northeast, flowing about a mile 
and a half, when it assumes a northern direction to 
Lake Ontario. The cataract pours over a summit in 
the form of a crescent, extending some distance up the 
stream. The sheet of water is separated by Goat Isl- 
and, leaving the grand fall on the Canada side about 
600 yards wide, and the high fall on the American side 
about 300. The fall on the American side drops al- 
most perpendicularly to the distance of 164 feet. The 
grand or horse -shoe fall, on the Canada side, descends 
to the river below in the form of a curve, 158 feet, pro- 
jecting about 50 feet from the base. The whole height, 
including the descent of the rapids above, is 216 feet. 



266 NIAGARA FALLS. 

On the Canada side, 
The view from the table rock, has been generally 
considered preferable ; but this point must be decided 
by the different tastes of visitors. The table rock pro- 
jects about 50 feet, and between it and the Falls an ir- 
regular arch is formed, which extends under the pitch, 
almost without interruption, to the island. The de- 
scent from the table rock is by means of a spiral 
stair-way, which is enclosed. Visitants desirous of 
passing in the rear of the great sheet of water, are sup- 
plied by the keeper of the stairs with dresses for that 
purpose, and with a guide. On reaching the bottom 
a rough path winds along the foot of the precipice and 
leads under the excavated bank, which, in one place, 
overhangs about 40 feet. The entrance into the tre- 
mendous cavern behind the falling sheet should never 
be attempted by persons of v/eak nerves. The humid- 
ity of the atmosphere, which, at times, almost prevents 
respiration ; the deafenmg roar of the foaming torrent, 
and the sombre appearance of surrounding objects, is 
oftentimes calculated to unnerve the stoutest frame. 
The farthest distance that can be approached, is to 
what is called Termination Rock, 153 feutfiom the com- 
mencement of the volume of water at Table Rock. 
Few, however, have the courage to proceed that dis- 
tance ; and seldom go farther than 100 feet. 

A large crack in the table rock, which has increased 
annually for some yca-s, renders it very certain thai a 
considerable proportion will ere long fall into the abyss 
below. The part thus cracked is nearly 50 feet in 
width, and might be blasted off without difficulty. The 
height of this lock has been ascertained to be 163 feet ; 



NIAGARA FALLS. 167 

while that of the Falls, measuring from the bridge 
near the terrapin rocks, has proved to be 158 feet 4 
inches. 

The Pavilion, kept by Mr. Forsyth, on the Canada 
side, is on a lofty eminence above the Falls ; affording 
from its piazzas and roof a beautiful prospect of the 
surrounding scenery. It is a handsomely constructed 
building, and can accommodate from 100 to 150 guests. 
Among the improvements lately made by Mr. Forsyth, 
is a new platform along what is called the upper bank, 
between his house and the river, giving an easy descent 
to the Table Rock, and also ii new stair case from the 
rock to the bank below, affording a pleasant and safe 
means of obtaining one of the best views of the Falls. 
He alloM's no charge to be exacted for descending this 
stair case, and provides guides and attendants for those 
who wish to pass under the falling sheet of water. 

From the Table Rock the traveller passes by the 
museum along the wooded bank of the river, until he 
arrives at the road leading down to the Ferry House, 
half a mile below the Horse Shoe Fall. At this point 
of the road he obtains a fall view of the plot designed 
for the village of " Clifton." When the " Crescent" 
shall be occupied by tasteful cottages, and. a Uttle 
shrubbery added to the beautiful trees and plants which 
grow luxuriantly at present along its front, there will 
be few retreats more desirable, more picturesque, or 
healthful, as a summer residence, than this spot. The 
property, consisting of forty acres of land, was purchas- 
ed in 1831 by Capt. Creighton,an English officer, who 
is indefatigable in ornamenting the ground, without al- 
lowing his improvements to interfere with the grandeur 



268 NIAGARA FALLS. 

and magnificence of the surrounding scenery. A large 
stone building has also been recently erected for a pub- 
lic house, at the commencement of the ferry road ; from 
whence a splendid view of both falls, the river, islands, 
&c. may be had. Row boats are continually crossing 
the river from the termination of this road. The rapid- 
ity of the current, the numerous eddies, and the agitated 
appearance of the water, are calculated to impress a 
stranger with an idea that a passage is hazardous. But 
we believe few if any accidents have ever happened. 
The boatmen are skilful, and the crossing is generally 
effected in about 15 minutes. 

The Falls on the Amencan side, 

Though less gigantic, are nevertheless beautiful ; 
and would alone be considered one of the greatest nat- 
ural curiosities in the world. A flight of stairs has been 
constructed from the bank a few rods below the falls to 
the bottom. In consequence of a rocky barrier in front 
of the falling sheet, it can be approached to within a 
few feet ; though not without encountering a plentiful 
shower of the spray. About a quarter of a mile above 
the fall, a bridge has been constructed from the shore 
to Bath Island ; which is connected by means of anoth- 
er bridge with Goat Island. The sensation in crossing 
these bridges, and particularly the first,* over the tre- 



* Gen. Peter B. Porter, of Black Rock, to whom the 
public are indebted for the construction of this bridge, j 
informed me that its erection was not effected without j 
considerable danger. Two large trees, hevced to cor- 
respond with their shape, were first constructed into a I 



XIAGARA FALLS. 2G9 

mendous rapids beneath, is calculated to alarm the 
traveller for his safety, and hasten him in his excursion 
to the Island. On Bath Island, mills have been erect- 
ed, contiguous to what is termed the race-way, which 
divides Bath from Goat Island. The latter, which is 
330 yards broad, is principally a wilderness. On the 
southern and western banks an extensive view is had 
of the rapids above and of the grand fall on the Canada 
side. But the best view of the latter is obtained from a 
small bridge which has been erected from the island to 
the Terrapin rocks, adjoining the falls, 300 feet from the 
shore. From the end of this bridge, which is placed on 
the very verge of the precipice, the frightful abyss, cov- 
ered with a foam of snowy whiteness, is seen beneath. 
No one can witness it at first, without involuntarily 
shrinking back. A fear that the frail structure on which 
he stands may possibly give way, induces him to re- 
trace his steps with as little delay as practicable ; and 



temporary bridge, the huts fastened to the shore, with 
the lightest ends projecting over the rapids. At the 
extremity of the projection, a small abutment of stone 
was at first placed in the river, and when this became 
secure, logs were sunk around it, locked in such a 
manner as to form a frame, which was filled with stone. 
A bridge was then made to this abutment, the tempora- 
ry bridge shoved forward, and another abutment formed, 
until the whole was completed. One man fell into the 
rapids during the work. At first, owing to the velocity 
with which he was carried forward, he was unable to 
hold upon the projecting rocks ; but through great bod- 
ily exertions to lessen the motion, by swimming against 
the current, he was enabled to seize upon a rock, from 
which he was taken by means of a rope. 



270 NIAGARA FALLS. 

it is not until after repeated visits, that this alarm whol- t 
\y subsides. 

At the foot of Iris Island (adjoinin^r Goat Island) is | 
>yhat is called the Biddle stair-way, erected by N. Bid- 
DLE, Esq. president of the U. S. Bank. This aftbrds { 
a safe and easy passage to a position more favorable 
than any other for viewing this stupendous work of 
nature. The elevation of the island above the margin 
of the river or basin below, is 185 feet. The descent of 
the first 40 feet is effected by a flight of steps, commen- 
cing in the interior of the island, and descending on an 
inclined plane to the brow of the perpendicular work, 
through a dugway walled on both sides ; the second 
flight is by a spiral stair way of 88 steps, down a per- ■ 
pendicular building in the shape of a hexigon, resting | 
on a firm foundation — the whole handsomely enclosed, j 
From the foot of this building to the river below, (about I 
80 feet) are three paths formed of stone steps, and lead- 
ins to the water in different directions.* 

The amount of water which passes over the respec- 
tive falls, has been estimated by Dr. Dwight at more ' 
than 100 millions of tons an hour. No method can be 
devised for ascertaining the depth at the principal fall ; 
but it is not improbable that it may be 6 or 800 feet ; as 
the depth of the stream half a mile below is from 250 to 
2G0 feet. 



* It was from ladders erected at tliis place that the 
celebrated Sam Patch made a descent of 118 feet into 
the water below a short time previous to his fatal leap 
at Rochester in the fall of 1829. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 271 

To a stranger who shall examine the rapids above 
the falls, it will seem incredible that Goat Island should 
ever have been visited previous to the construction of 
the bridge. Yet as early as 1765,* several French offi- 
cers were conveyed to it by Indians in canoes, care- 
fully dropping down the river ; and it is but a few 
years since Gen. Porter, of Black Rock, with some oth- 
er gentlemen, also made a trip to the Island in a boat. 
They found but httle difficulty in descending ; but their 
return was difficult and hazardous. It was effected by 
shoving the boat with setting poles up the most shal- 
low part of the current, for half a mile, before making 
for the sliore. 

Falling into the current within a mile of the falls, is 
considered fatal. Several accidents of this kind have 
happened; and no "One, (save in the instance mention- 
ed in a preceding page,) lias ever reached the shore. 
Many bodies have been found below the falls — those 
that have fallen in the centre of the stream, without 
any external marks of injury ; and those that have 
fallen near the shore, much lacerated and disfigured. 
The latter has pi-obably been occasioned by coming in 
contact with rocks in shallow water, before reaching 
the cataract. It is but a few years since an Indian, 
parfially intoxicated, in attempting to cross the river 
near Chippewa, was forced near the rapids ; when 
finding all efforts to regain the shore unavaihng, he lay 
down in his canoe, and was soon plunged into the 



* Trees marked 1765 and 1769, are still to be peen on 
the island. 



272 



WELLAND CANAL. 



tremendous vortex belcv. He was never seen.. after- 
wards. 

There are two large boarding establishments on the 
American side, in what is called the village of Man- 
chester. The Eagle Tavern kept by Gen. Whitney, is 
the oldest and is entitled to a full phare of patronage. 
The other has been recently erected, and is a handsome 
building, with pleasant and airy apartments. The vil- 
lage was burnt by the British in 1813 ; but it has been 
rebuilt, and though small, is larger than it was previous 
to that event. 

In giving a general description of the Falls, we have, 
• in crossing to the American side, diverged from our 
proposed route. While on the Canada shore, it is re- 
commended to tourists to visit the Deep Cut on the 
Welland canal, eight miles west of the Falls ; return ; 
proceed down the Niagara river through Glueenston to 
Fort George or Newark ; cross over to Fort Niagara or 
Youngstown, and proceed up the river, through Lew- 
iston to ^Manchester. For a short excursion, there are 
many objects of attraction on this route, which are no- 
ticed hereafter. 

The Welland Canal unites the waters of Lake 
Erie and Ontario, and is constructed for sloops of 125 
tons burthen. The canal commences at Port Mait- 
land, at the mouth of the Grand river on Lake Erie, 40 
miles west of Buffalo, and follows the channel of that 
stream nearly a mile and a half, and thence up Broad 
creek nearly a mile, where the artificial channel com- 
mences by a cut of 10 miles through a marsh. It then 
proceeds down mill creek 2^ miles until it intersects 
lilt' Yv'tllard river, into which it descends bv a lock of 



WELLAND CANAL, 273 

eigiit feet lift ; ihence a towing path is constructed 
along the banks 10 miles — the marsh excavation from 
10 to 16 feet. From Welland river the canal runs in a 
northerly direction winding up a ravine 66 chains, hav- 
ing 8 or 10 feet cutting; where commences the deep 
cutting or dividing ridge, an almost abrupt height of 27 
feet above the canal bottom. It thence runs gradually 
to 56 feet 6 inches in a distance of 100 chains ; thenca 
descends to 30 feet in 28 chains, which as abruptly 
breaks off in another ravine ; whole distance through 
the deep cut 1 mile 54 chains ; average depth 44 feet. 
To the depth of from 12 to 18 feet from the surface, it 
is a compound of clay, mixed with sand, and below this 
a tenacious blue clay. From the termination of the 
deep cut to that part where the mountain descends, is . 
a distance of 4 miles and 23 chains, to lock Ko. 1 as it 
it is called, although it is properly lock No. 2. From 
lock No. 1 the canal continues in a ravine 53 chains, 
gradually descending by 4 locks of 22 feet width ; and 
thence for 1 mile and 55 chains it winds around the 
brow of a hill. There are 17 locks in this distance, 
and 60,000 yards of rock excavation. From this place 
the canal enters another ravine to St. Catharine's, a 
distance of 2^ miles, in which there are 12 locks. This 
may be termed the mountain descent, as in a distance 
of 4 miles and 72^ chains from lock No. 1, there are 
32 locks, with a declination of 322 feet, 22 feet wide 
and 100 feet in the pool. From this to lake Ontario, a 
distance of 5 miles, the canal is mostly in the bed of 
the Twelve Mile creek. There are three locks in this 
section, including the one at the harbor, each 32 feet 



274 EATTI.a OF QUEENSTON. 

wide and 125 feet long; and five position.^ are takeji 
for dams, one of which is 23 feet high. 

The whole length of tiiis canal is 43^ miles, a little 
more than 19 of which are slack water ; the total 
amount of lockage 334 feet. 

The Deep Cut is considered the most gigantic artifi- 
cial work in America, if we except ths Desague near 
Mexico ; and, with the precipice of locks which descend 
the mountain ridge, forms altogether one of the most 
interesting improvements of the age. 

From the Fails on the Canada side to CIueenston 
the distance is 7 miles, over a good road which passes 
the former residence of the Duke of Richmond, since 
owned by Sir Peregrine IVlaitland. Glueenston lies on 
the bank of the Niagara, and has little in its appear- 
ance indicating a prosperous or thriving village. 

The battle of Q,ueenston which was fought at this place 
occurred on the 13th of Oct. 1812. Gen. Van Rens- 
selaer, who had command of the American troops at 
Lewiston, on the opposite side of the river, determined 
on crossing over and taking possession of Glueenston 
heights. The crossing was effected before day light ; 
and the ascent, which was up a precipitous ravine, ri- 
sing near 300 feet above the river, was accomplished 
amid the fire of the enemy from his breast works on the 
heights. As the Americans approached, the British 
retreated to the village below ; where their comman- 
dant, Gen. Brock, in forming liis lines to reascend the 
heights, was mortally vv'ounded by a random shot. His 
aid, Col. M'Donald, then took command and ascended 
the heights, where he was also wounded mortally. 
The Americans continued in possession but a few 



brock's moncment. 275 

hours, when they recrossed tlie river. 'I'lie pickets 
and breast works, though in a state of decay, are Blill 
visible. 

The spot on which Brock fell is pointed out to stran - 
gers. It was in a small field, since called Brock's lot ; 
and is reserved for the erection of a church at a future 
period. 

BROCK'S MONUMENT 

Is on the heights, one fourth of a mile southwest of 
the village of Clueenston. It is composed of free stone ; 
and, excepting the base, is of a spiml form. It is a fine 
specimen of architecture ; and from its elevation, is 
seen for many miles around. Its height is 1 26 feet ; and 
the heights on which it is erected are 270 feet above 
the level of the Niagara river. The ascent to the top 
of the monument is by means of winding steps, 170 
in number. It is extremely fatiguing ; but the prospect 
afforded of the surrounding country, for 50 miles in ex- 
tent, will richly repay the tourist for the time and trou- 
ble in visiting its pinnacle. The following inscription 
appears on the monument : 

"The Legislature of Upper Canada has dedicated 
■ this monument to the many civil and military services 
of the late Sir Isaac Brock, Knight, Commander of 
the most honorable Order of the Bath, Provincial Lieut. 
Governor and Major General, commanding his Majes- 
ty's forces therein. He fell in action on the 13th oi' 
October, 1812, honored and beloved by those whom he 
governed, and deplored by his Sovereign, to whose ser- 
vice his life had been devoted. His remains are depos- 
ited in this vault, as also his aid-de-camp, Lieut. Colo- 

y2 



276 LEW13T0N. 

nel John M'Donald, who died of his wounds the 14th 
of October, 1812, received the day before in action." 

Fort George, or Newark, is 7 miles north of 
Q,ueenston, and is located at the entrance of the Niag- 
ara river into Lake Ontario. The village was burnt 
during the last war ; which event was followed, by the 
burning of several frontier villages on the American 
shore, as retaliatory. Fort George, near the village, is 
the most prominent, and perhaps the only object of in- 
terest presented. It is in a state of tolerable preserva- 
tion, and has generally since the war been occupied as 
a garrison by a small nurnber of soldiers. The river is 
crossed in a horse boat, to 

YouNGSTOWN, containing from 40 to 50 houses, one 
mile north of which, and directly opposite Newark, is 
Fort Niagara.* It was built by the French in 1725, 
passed into British hands by the conquest of Canada, 
and was surrendered to the U. States in 17S8. It was 
taken by the British by surprise during the last war, 
and abandoned on the restoration of peace. The works 
are now in a state of decay, 

Lev/iston is 7 miles south of Youngstown, and is 
directly opposite the village of Glueenston. It is loca- 
ted at the foot and termination of the Mountain Ridge, 
or alluvial way, (noticed hereafter,) and at the head of 
navigation on the Niagara river. With the other fron- 
tier villages, it was laid in ruins during the late war, 
and was deserted by its inhabitants, from Dec. 1813, 



* This is the place where the celebrated William 
Morgan was confined after his abduction. 



LEWISTON. 277 

to April, 1815 ; but it is now in a flourisliing condition, 
and its buildings exhibit much taste and neatness. A 
ferry is established between this place and Glueenston. 
While standing on the lofty bank, the rapid motion of 
the river with its various eddies, are far from inviting, 
and seem to forbid the idea of a pleasant passage : but 
these sensations are removed soon after entering the 
boat. It is carried dovv'n for a considerable distance 
with much rapidity, but without danger. Every ap- 
pearance confirms the supposition, that at this plade the 
falls once poured their immense volumes of water, but 
by a constant abrasion of the cataract, have receded to 
their present position, 7 miles distant; 

Stages leaves Lewiston every morning for Rochester, 
distant 80 miles, passing on the Ridge Road, or alluvial 
way,* and reach Rochester at evening. Stages, also 



* This ridge extends along the south shore of Lake 
Ontario, from the Genesee river to Niagara river, a dis- 
tance of about 80 miles. The road is handsomely arch- 
ed in the centre, and is generally from 4 to 8 rods wide. 
In some places it is elevated 120 or 130 feet above the 
level of the lake, from which it is distant from 6 j;o 10 
miles. The first 40 miles from Lewiston, of this natur- 
al highway, is broken for a considerable extent, by log 
roads or causeways, bordered by impervious forests, 
occasionally relieved by the temporary huts of the re- 
cent settlers ; but the remaining distance is unusually 
level, and, with some intermissions, bordered by a line 
of cultivation. It is generally believed that this was 
once the southern boundary of the lake, and that the 
ridge was occasioned by the action of the water. The 
gravel and smooth stones of which the ridge is com- 
posed, intermingled with a great variety of shells, leave 
little room to doubt the correctness of this opinion. It 



278 devil's hole. 

run to Lockport every day, distant 20 miles, passing- 
through the Tuscaroro village, occupied by a tribe of 
Indians of that name.* 

In pursuing the route from Lcvviston to the Falls on 
the American side, the traveller soon begins to climb 
the height or mountain describing the difference of al- 
titude between Lakes Ontario and Erie. The ascent 
is somewhat precipitous, but is overcome without diffi- 
culty. At the distance of two miles, the top is gained, 
and affords an ijnposing prospect of the almost inter- 
minable expanse below. The course of the mighty 
Niagara is easily traced to its outlet : where, from their 
prominence, are distinctly seen, Forts Niagara and 
George. The waters of the distant lake and the sur- 
rounding plains are so charmingly picturesque, that the 
traveller withdraws reluctantly, even to participate in 
the enjoyment of scenes more sublime. Three and a 
half miles from Lewiston is what is called the 

Devil's Hole, a most terrific gulph, formed by a 
chasm in the eastern bank of the Niagara, 150 or 200 
feet deep. An angle of this gulph is within a few feet 



is a great natural curiosity, and should be travelled 
over by the tourist in going to or returning from the 
Falls. 

* Doct. SpafTord, in his Gazetteer of New- York, re- 
marks, that this tribe came from North Carolina about 
1712, and joined the confederacy of the Five Nations, 
themselves making the Sixth. Thc}^ still hold an in- 
terest in a very large and valuable tract of land in N. 
Carolina, which will not be extinct before A. D. 1911. 
They also own a very considerable tract of land in this 
state, deeded to them by the Holland Company. 



LAKE ONTARIO. 279 

of the road ; affording to the passing traveller, without 
ahghting, an opportunity of looking into the yawning 
abyss beneath. During the French war, a detachment 
of the British army, while retreating from Schlosser in 
the niglit, before a superior force of French and Indians, 
were destroyed at this place. Officers, soldiers, wo- 
men and children, with their horses, waggons, baggage, 
&c. were all precipitated down the gulph. Those who 
were not drov/ned in the river were dashed in pieces on 
the naked rocks ! 

The Whirlpool is one mile farther south. It is 
formed by a short turn in the river, and can be viewed 
on either side: though the best view, connected with 
the rapids, is on the American shore. One mile far- 
ther, is a ■ 

Sulphur Spring, used principally for bathing. 

The American Fall at Manchester, is a mile and a 
half farther, and has been already noticed in this work. 

LAKE ONTARIO. 

This lake is in length 171 miles, and in circumference 
467. In many places its depth has not been ascertain- 
ed. In the middle a line of 350 fathoms has been let 
down without finding bottom. Of the many islands 
which this lake contains, the principal is Grand Isle, 
opposite to Kingston. At this place the lake is about 
10 miles in width, and from thence it gradually con- 
tracts until it reaches Brockville, a distance of about 
50 miles, v/here its width is not over 2 miles. About 
40 miles of this distance is filled with a continued clus- 



280 ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 

ter of small islands, which from their number have been 
distinguished by the name of the Thousand Islands. 

Though inferior in its extent to the remaining 4 great 
western lakes, Ontario is far from being the least inter- 
estino-. The north-east shore of the lake consists prin- 
cipally of low land, and is in many places marshy. On 
the north and north-west it is more elevated, and grad- 
ually subsides towards the south. The margin of the 
lake is generally bordered by thick forests, through 
which are occasionally seen little settlements surround- 
ed with rich fields of cultivation, terminated by lofty 
ridges of land here and there assuming the character of 
mountains. Some of the highest elevations of land are 
the clifis of Torento, the Devil's Nose, and the Ffty 
Mile Hill. The principal rivers which empty into the 
lake on the south, are the Genesee and Oswego. 
York, Kingston and Sackett's Harbor, all situated on 
the borders of the lake, are well known in connexion 
with the history of the late war. 

ROUTE FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 

British side. — A boat leaves Niagara for Prescott, on 
Lake Ontario, and vice versa, four times a week, from 
whence stages leave for Montreal six times a week.* 
A boat is also building to run from Prescott to the head 
of the Long Salt Rapids, within ten miles of Cornwall, 
which will make from Niagara to Gluebec but thirty- 
jive miles land carriage. The route from Niagara to 
Montreal is generally performed in three days, as fol- 
lows : 

* A boat also plies daily between York and Niagara. 



ROUTE ERORl NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 281 

Coaches leave the Falls every day for Distance. Fare. 
Niagara, 14 $100 

The Steamer Great Bntian, leaves 
Niagara every five days, the Alciope eve- 
ry Saturday evening, the JViagara every 
Monday evening at 6 o'clock, and the 
Q,ueenston every Tuesday morning at 9 
o'clock, for Kingston, Brockville, and 
Prescott, (board included.) 250 S 00 

The Upper Canada line of Coaches 
and Steamboats leaves Prescott daily, 
except Saturday and Sunday, for Mon- 
treal in the following manner : Prescott 

to Cornwall, by land,. 50 

Cornwall to Coteau du Lac, via St. Re- 
gis Indian Village, by steam boat,. . . .41 
Coteau du Lac to Cascades, by land, 16 
Cascades to Lachine, by steam boat, 24 
Lachine to Montreal, by land, 9 150 7 GO 

From Montreal to Gluebec a boat 
leaves every day, except Sunday, (board 
included,) 180 4 00 



MILES, 584 $20 00 

American side. — Heretofore, the American boat has 
left Lewiston only once a week ; but since the comple- 
tion of the new and handsome boat, the United States, 
it is supposed that trips will be effected twice a week be- 
tween Lewiston and Ogdensburgh, distant 268 miles, 
touching at Fort Niagara, Genesse river, Oswego, Sack- 
et's Harbor, Cape Vincent, French Creek and Morris- 
town. From Ogdensburgh, a stage is generally taken 



282 CHARLOTTE OSWEGO. 

for Montreal ; though passage boats, which descend as 
far as Lachine, are sometmies preferred. 

From Lewiston to Montreal is 385 miles, and the 
intervening distances are estimated as follows : 

Miles. Miles. 



Ogdensburgh, 12 

Gallop Islands, 5 

Hamilton, 19 

St. Regis, 35 

La Chine, 53 

Montreal, 7 



Fort Niagara, ....... 7 

Genesee River, 74 

Great Sodus Bay,. ... 35 

Oswego River, 28 

Sacket's Harbor, % . . . 40 

Cape Vincent, 20 

Morriston, 50 

Fort Niagara, 7 miles from Leweston. ( See p. 276. ) 
Charlotte, at the mouth of the Genesee river, 74 
miles from Lewiston, is a port of entry where there is 
a light-house, and the commencement of extensive piers 
building by the United States, for improving the navi- 
gation. The river is navigable to the Carthage falls,* 
4 miles ; from thence to Jlochester* is 2 miles ; to 
which place passengers can always be conveyed by 
stages in readiness on the arrival of the boat. 

Great Sodus Bat, 35 miles. This embraces East, 
Port and Little Sodus Bays, and has three islands of 
considerable size. The whole circumference of the 
bay, with its coves and points, is about 1 5 miles. Its 
waters are deep and clear, and its shores have several 
elegant sites for buildings. 

Oswego, 28 miles. This village is situate at the 
mouth of the Oswego river; and within a few years 



* For a depcription of these places, see pacres -245 to 
150. 



backet's harbor. 233 

haa rapidly increased in size and population. The falls 
in the river at this place afford extensive facilities for 
manufacturing operations ; added to which, the Oswe- 
go canal terminates here, uniting Avith the Erie canal 
at Syracuse, 38 miles distant. An extensive pier has 
been recently erected at Oswego, affording a safe and 
beautiful harbor for boats and sloops. 

Forts Oswego and Ontario are at this place. The 
first was erected in 1727, and the latter in 1755. Both 
were besieged by Gen; Montcalm in 1756, with 3,000 
troops and two vessels. Fort Ontario was soon evacu- 
ted by the English, which was followed by the surren- 
der of Fort Oswego, with a large quantity of stores, 
cannon, two sloops and nearly 200 boats. The posi- 
tion, however, having been held a short time by the 
French, was abandoned. 

During the last war, the place was taken by the 
British, after a loss of about 100 men ; but Avas evacu- 
ated immediately afterwards. 

A steam boat plies daily between this place and 
Kingston on the Canada side. 

Sacket's Harbor, 40 miles. This was an import- 
ant military and naval station during the last war. 
The Barracks are situate about 400 yards north-easter- 
ly of the village on the shore. They are a solid range 
of stone buildings, and add much to the appearance of 
the place. Two forts erected during the war are now 
in ruins. On Navy-Point, which forms the harbor, 
there is a large ship of war on the stocks ; but which, 
probably, will never be finished. 
z 



284 OCDENSBURGH. 

Cape Vincent, 20 miles. Kingston in Upper Call' 
ada, is on the opposite side of the lake, 1 1 miles distant^ 
with Grand Island intervening. 

MoRRiSTOwN, 50 miles. The river here is but a mile 
and a quarter wide ; on the opposite side of which is 
the village of Brockville. 

Ogdexsburgh, which terminates the passage of the 
steam-boat, is 12 miles fai-ther, and is situated on the 
east side of the Oswcgatche river, at its confluence with 
the St. Lawrence. This is a thriving village, containing 
about 250 houses, and a population of about 2000 in- 
habitants. A military fortification, consisting of two 
stone buildings and a number of wooden barracks was 
formerly erected here by the British government, but 
was ceded to the United States in 1796. 

A regular stage leaves Ogdensburgh three times a 
week for Plattsburgh ; from whence a steam-boat can 
be taken on Lake Champlain for St. John's or White- 
hall. 

Stages also arrive and depart ever}- week, to and from 
Montreal ; and by crossing the river, a stage can be 
taken at Prescott for that place daily. Passage boats, 
also, leave Ogdensburgh about every day, and descend 
the river as far as La Chine, 7 miles above Montreal, 
in 3 days. The boats are usually furnished with every 
necessar}- implement for their good management, and 
with skilful pilots. The latter are more particularly re- 
quisite, as the current of the St. Lawrence is generally- 
very rapid, and obstructed by numerous shoals and isl- 
ands, which by an inexperienced navigator could not 
without difficulty be avoided. The principal rapids are 



ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 285 

three in number — the Longue Sault, the Rapids of the 
Cedars* and the Cascades of St. Louis. The first of 
these are 9 miles in length, and are usually passed in 20 
minutes, which is at the rate of 27 miles an hour. The 
rapids of the Cedars terminate about 3 miles from the 
Cascades, which, after a broken course of about 2 
miles, pour their foaming waters into Lake St. Louis. 
Lake St. Francis, on the St. Lawrence, is 25 miles long, 
and its greatest breadth 15. The borders of the lake 
are so low that they can scarcely be distinguished in 
passing along its centre. At the northern extremity of 
Lake St. Francis is situated the village of St. Regis, 
through which passes the boundary line between the 
Canadas and the United States. 

The banks of the St. Lawrence exhibit a country re- 
markably fertile, and in many places under good culti- 
vation. 

The first settlements in this region commenced in 
1783, and though 50 years only have elapsed, it now 
exhibits many of the embellishments incident to a nu- 
merous population and successful improvement. The 
perpetual varying scenery along its banks, occasionally 
diversified with smiling fields and flourishing villages, 
together with the islands and rapids of the St. Law- 



* It was at this place that Gon. Amherst's brigade of 
300 men, coming lo attack Canada, were lost. The 
French at Montreal received the first intelhgence of 
the invasion, by the dead bodies floating past the town. 
The pilot who conducted their first batteaux commit- 
ted an error by running into the wrong channel, and the 
other batteaux following close, all were involved in the 
sama desUudion, 



Zati MONTREAL. 

rence, present a succession of novelties with which the 
traveller cannot fail to be gratified. 

Gallop Islands, 5 niiles from Ogdensburgh. The 
river is here divided into tv.o currents, the commence- 
ment of the great rapids below. From these rapids, 
the river descends 231 feet in 280 miles. On Stoney 
Island, (one of the Gallop clustei",) the French had a 
strong fortress, which was taken and demolished by 
Gen. Amherst, in 1760. 

St. Regis, 54 miles, is a \'illage occupied by a tribe 
of Indians of that name, who have a reservation of land 
here of considerable extent. One of their chiefs, aged 
about 90, remarked to a gentleman of our acquaintance 
a short time since, that he visited the High Rock Spring 
at Saratoga nearly 70 years ago, tvhen the ivater flowed 
over the top of the aperture.* 

Lachine, 53 miles. From thence to Montreal, which 
is 7 miles farther, the river road is generally preferred ; 
from which a charming view of the rapids and of sever- 
al islands is enjoyed. It also crosses the Lachine canal. 

MONTREAL 

Is situated on the south side of the island of the same 
name, 131 miles from Ogdensburgh, and 170 from due- 
bee. The length of the island is 30 miles, its mean 
breadth 7, and its circumference about 70. The city 
extends along the St. Lawrence, about 2 miles in length, 



* No one living near the Spring remembers to have 
seen the water rise higher than within S or 10 inches of 
the top of the rock. At present it is considerably lower. 



MONTREAL. 287 

*ind half a mile in width. The buildings are nmostly 
constructed of stone, and arranged on regularly dispos- 
ed but narrow streets. A stone wall form'erly encircled 
the city, which, by the sanction of the government, was 
some years ago totally demolished. Montreal is di- 
vided into the upper and lower towns. The latter of 
these contains the Hotel Dieu, founded in 1644, and 
under a superior and thirty nuns, whose occupation is 
to administer relief to the sick, who are received into 
that hospital. The French government formerly con- 
tributed to the support of this institution : but since the 
^revolution which occasioned the loss of its principal 
funds, then vested in Paris, its resources have been con- 
jRned to the avails of some property in land. The up- 
per town contains the Cathedral, the English Church, 
the Seminary, the Convent of Recollets, and that of the 
Sisters of Notre Dam*^. The general hospital, or Con- 
vent of the Grey Sisters, is situated on the banks of the 
St. Lawrence, a little distance from the town, from which 
it is separated by a small ri^ailet. This institution was 
established in 1753, and is under the management of a 
superior and 19 nuns. 

Some of the public iDuildings are beautiful. Among 
these, the new Catholic Church, in grandeur, capacious- 
ness, style and decoration, is probably not exceeded by 
any edifice in America. It is 255 feet long, and 34 feet 
wide, and is sufficiently capacious to hold iO,000 per- 
sons. 

J*felson''s Monument, near the Market Place, is an ob- 
ject also meriting an accurate survey. 

The Museum belonging to the Society of J^atural His- 
tory contains a numerous assemblage of indigenous and 
z2 



288 MONTREAL. 

exotic specimens, an examination of which will prove 
highly interesting to visitors of taste and science. 

A visit to the Nunneries can generally be effected 
without difficulty ; though a trifling purchase of some 
of the manufactures of the nuns is generally expected^ 

The College is a large stone edifice, 3 stories high, 
and has a spacious yard on the south, adjoining to 
which is a beautiful garden. It generally contains 
about 300 students, and the terms of tuition are 80 dol- 
lars per annum. Connected with the college there is 
also a preparatory school, under excellent regulations. 

The Parade is a beautiful public ground on which the 
troops are usually drilled. 

The prevailing religion here, as well as at Cluebec, is 
the Roman Catholic. The clergy derive a revenue from 
grants of land made to them under the ancient regime, 
and from contributions ordained by the church. Be- 
sides these, a principal source of revenue is from the 
fines for alienation, which amount to about 8 per cent, 
paid by the purchaser of real estate, every time the 
same is sold, and which extends to sales of all real es- 
tates in the seignory or island of Montreal. 

The city, including its suburbs, contains rising of 
30,000 inhabitants. 

The Mountain of Montreal, from which the city takes 
its name, rises about 2J miles distant. It is elevated 
700 feet above the level of the river, and extends from 
north to sovith 2 miles. This spot has already been se- 
lected for the residence of some private gentlemen, 
w^hose elegant white mansions appear beautiful in con- 
trast with the surroimding foliage. The island of St. 
Helena, immediately opposite the city, is a delightful 



LACHINE. 289 

little spot, from whence is had a fine view of Montreal, 
with its lofty mountain in the back ground, the settle- 
ment of Longueil, St. Lambert and La Praiiie de la 
Madalene, on the east side of the river, and the waters 
of the St. Lawrence dashing over the rocks of La Chine, 
and sweeping their course around a variety of islands. 

The principal public houses in the city are. Masonic 
Hall, in the north part ; Goodenough's, St. Paul street ; 
Mansion-House, do. ; and the British American Hotel, 
do. The latter is located near Dalhousie's Square, the 
most fashionable part of the tow^n, and being on the 
bank of the St. Lawrence, commands in its fear a most 
imposing prospect of that noble river, w-ith the sur- 
rounding scenery.- It is kept by Mr. Rasea, proprietor 
of the Varennes Springs Hotel, (hereafter noticed,) who 
has added much to its convenience and embellishment, 
and rendered it in other respects a deservedly popular 
establishment. 

The climate of Montreal is salubrious, and the city 
had gerxerally been free of epidemic diseases until the 
summer of 1S32, when it sufFeredseverely from the rav- 
ages of the Asiatic Cholera. It first made its appear- 
ance in the early part of June, find in two months 
swept off 2000 emigrants and inhabitants. 

EXCURSIONS. 

Lachine, 9 miles from Montreal, with which it ia 
connected by a canal, is a place of considerable resort. 
By taking the river road, a view is obtained of the Rap- 
ids, Nuns' and Heron Islands, and the Indian village of 
Caughnawaga. 



290 RIDEAU CAKAL. 

Varennes. a stage and pteam-boat leave Montreal 
for Varennes, a boaut'ful village, 15 miles distant, every 
morning and afternoon, returning the ensuing day. 
The lines of steam-boats plying daily between Mon- 
treal and (Quebec, also touch, both ascending and de- 
scending, to receive and land passengers. The Va- 
rennes Spring Hotel, \oca.ted in the village, is a branch 
establishment of Rasea's British American Hotel in 
Montreal. The view from the Hotel is one of the 
most interesting in North America, commanding in 
front the mountainous land on the north shore of the 
St. Lawrence ; to the west, the city and island of 
Montreal, the island and fortification of St. Helens, and 
the winding course of the river ; and on the east, a 
most picturesque ^Toup of islands, with their varied 
channels ; v/hile the rear presents the most fertile and 
hio^hlv cultivated district in Lower Canada, with the 
magnificent mountains of Chambly and Bcloil in the 
distance. The Hotel, as a building, is capacious, 
and furnished in a style of superior neatness and ele- 
gance. 

The Springs are one mile from the village, and are 
approached by a road on the bank of the St. Lawrence, 
forming a delightful promenade, where an extensive 
and commodious bath house has been erected. Bv an 
analysis of these water, they prove to be possessed of 
valuable medicinal qualities, and are free from substan- 
ces which can be deemed deleterious. Varennes and its 
vicinity, therefore, presents to those travelling in pursuit 
of health and pleasure, many attractions. 

The RiDEAU Canal. This work, which lias been 
made at the expense of Great Britain, forms a naviga- 



RIDEAU CANAL, 29 i 

ble communication between Lake Ontario and the Ot- 
towa or Grand River, which empties into the St. Law- 
rence opposite Montreal. The object of its construc- 
tion has been to secure, in time of war, the transporta- 
tion of miUtary stores, &c. by an interior route, less ex- 
posed to the U. States, and practicable in lake vessels 
of 125 tons. The junction of the Rideau river with the 
Ottowa, which is tlie lower extremity of the canal, is 
120 miles from Montreal ; and from Kingston, near 
where the canal enters Lake Ontario, it is 160 miles by 
water, and 130 by land. The discharge of the Rideau 
into the Ottowa, is marked by an extensive cove on the 
right bank of the latter river, in a guUey existing be- 
tween the falls of the Chaudiere and Rideau. This 
point appears to have been reserved by nature for the 
purpose to which it is adapted ; and, indeed, bears eve- 
ry characteristic, both as to its banks and valley, of 
having been formerly the bed of the Rideau. The ele- 
vation of the mouth of the caaal above the level of the 
sea is estimated at 110 feet, while it is considered to be 
283 feet below the- summit level on " Rideau Lake," 
and 129 below the level of Lake Ontario, at Kingston. 
Directly above the mouth of the canal, may be seen the 
beautiful and magnificent cataract of the Chaudiere. It 
consists of a series of fails, more or less extensive, and 
amounting in all to 3I5 feet perpendicular. But that 
which stands most prominent to view, and gives an ap- 
pearance of grandeur to the whole, is at the broadest 
channel of the river, and known by the name oftheGrande 
Chaudiere, or Big Kettle, from the peculiar formation of 
the cauldron into which the waters fall. This formation 
consists of a hard laminated lime-stone, in horizontal 



292 KIDEAU CANAL. 

strata, and worn into its present iiorse-shoe shape by 
the constant abrasion of the rolling water over its sur- • 
face. The depth of the cauldron is said to be over 
three hundred feet — at least, a sounding- line of that 
length could not be made to touch bottom. 

Next in interest to these may be mentioned the cata- 
ract of the Rideau, situated at the mouth of the river, 
where its dark green v^'aters fall from an eminence of 
37 feet, in a single unbroken sheet. The river finds its 
source in the Rideau Lake, 85 miles from the Ottowa, 
but is not occupied as the bed of the canal till about 6 
miles above its entrance, it having been found more 
expedient to make use of the natural valley and bay al- 
ready alluded to. 

At this point it became necessary, in consequence of 
the rugged and precipitate nature of the banks of the 
Ottow^a, to overcome the difference of level between the 
river and canal by the construction of a series of locks, 
eight in number, and each rising ten feet, giving an ag- 
gregate of eighty feet perpendicular rise ; constructed 
in a liberal workmanlike manner, and presenting an ele- 
gant and commanding appearance. The estimated 
cost was £45,700. In the vicinity of the locks are two 
spacious basins for the reception of boats ; over one of 
which, there is a stone arch, connecting Upper and 
Lower Bytown. 

About seventy miles of the route passes through ei- 
ther extensive lakes with bold and rocky shores, or soft 
swampy meadows, where good foundations were unat- 
tainable, save at great additional expense. Hence it 
became necessary to do away with the ordinary toM'ing- 
path, and enlarge the canal to a surface of 48 feet, with 



RIDEAU CANAL. 293 

a depth 5 throughout, to admit the passage of steam- 
boats from one extremity to the other. 

The towns of Upper and Lower By, so named after 
the commandant of engineers, Lieut. Col. Jolin By, un- 
der whose superintendance the works were constructed, 
have already assumed a character and importance 
which, when their brief existence is taken into considera- 
tion, is truly marvellous. The towns already contain, 
in addition to their numerous dwelling-houses, two 
large store-houses for the use of the Ordinance and 
Commissariat Departments ; three substantial build- 
ings for the accommodation of the troops, erected on 
the highest eminence, so .as to command both the river 
and canal ; and at a short distance an excellent milita- 
ry hospital. 

In the vicinity may also be seen, in the " Union 
Bridge," the execution of one of the most daring plans 
ever conceived. It connects Upper with Lower Cana- 
da, and is thrown directly, over the falls of the Chau- 
diere, taking advantage of the numerous rocky islands 
embraced by the diverging branches of the river at this 
place ; and forming altogether a most magnificent and 
imposing specimen of civil architecture. The bridge ia 
composed of six distinct arches, two of stone and four 
of wood, stretching from island to island with various 
spans, as circumstances required ; and forming an ag- 
gregate length of bridge- way of 781 feet. Taking leave 
of By town and its vicinity, and proceedmg along the 
line until it strikes the river, little of interest occurs, 
saving a singidar break in an interesting ridge of land, 
extending for several miles at an average depth of about 
thirty-five feet. It is known under the name of the 



294 RIDEAU CANAL. 

" Notch in the Mountain," and affords an opportune 
passage for the canal, which would otherwise, in order 
to pass it, have had to encounter a heavy excavation. 

At the point where the canal enters the channel of 
the river, are found strong rapids, confined on one side 
by a high clay bank, and on the other by a rocky shore. 
To overcome the fall existing here, wliich is about 30 
feet, it was necessary to drown the rapids by the erec- 
tion of a large dam, and surmount the elevation by 
three locks. This dam backs the w-ater as far as the 
*' Black Rapids" — -lo wliicli point, and indeed thence all 
the way to its source in the," Rideau Lake," the chan- 
nel of the river continues to be used. The Rideau, like 
other rivers in Canada, is a combination of rapids and 
long sheets of still water, alternately intervening, and 
to overcome v>hich it is ever necessaiy to have recoinse 
to locks and dams. There are fourteen rapids between 
Bytown and the Rideau Lake, w^hich are destroyed by 
as many dams, and twenty locks of various lifts, amount- 
mg in all to 283 feet. 

The " R,ideau Lake," which is the proper summit of 
the canal, is a beautiful expanse of clear green water, 
30 miles long and 12 broad, surrounded on all sides by 
bold, rocky, and precipitous banks. The only inter- 
ruptions which the navigation encounters across this 
lake are at " Oliver's Ferry" and the " Rideau Nar- 
rows," where considerable extra expense was incurred 
to overcome the currents there created bv the contrac- 
tion of the waters. 

Continuing the use of the Rideau waters for the 
epace of 45 miles on the summit level of the route, itf^ 
course finally bends toward the " Cataraqui River,'* 



RIDEAU CANAL. 295 

which has an outlet in Lake Ontario near Kingston. 
An excavation of 10 feet for the distance of a mile and 
a half across the isthmus, existing between the " Ri- 
deau" and " Mud" lakes, was necessary to effect this 
object. The latter lake is 3^ feet below the level of the 
Rideau, and has a length of 12 miles, with an average 
breadth of 10,studded. all over with innumerable small isl- 
ands, which give it quite a picturesque appearance. It 
is intended eventually to raise the waters to the level of 
the summit lake. 

Leaving this lake the canal enters the " Indian," and 
thence instead of making the long detour of the river, 
encounters a shallow cut, by which, in a more direct 
line, the distance is considerably shortened. Thence 
following the course of the " Cataraqui" to M'ithin 55 
miles of Kingston, a dam is met with, backing the wa- 
ter as far as the last mentioned lake. The rapids con- 
necting this with " Davis' Lake," on the right side of 
the river, are surmounted by dams and locks, so that 
the navigation which was before hazardous, is now per- 
fectly safe. 

Again, following the course of the " Cataraqui River" 
for the further distance of 8 miles, and successively pass- 
ing " Davis" and " Opinicon" lakes, together with 
their intervening rapids, surmounted as usual by a dam 
and lock, the tourist arrives at a point called " Jones' 
Falls," 35 miles from Kingston. These falls descend 
61 feet within the mile, and connect " Opinicon Lake,'? 
with " Cranberry Marsh," where the river holds its 
course through a narrow rocky ravine. This fall is 
overcome by a dam and six locks. Thence, passing 
three more smaller rapids, with their customary works, 

AA 



206 FROM MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 

the line at. length reaches " Kingston Mills," where the 
Cataraqui empties itself into the Kingston Bay, a part 
of Lake Ontario, and 5 miles distant from Kingston. 
This is the upper extremity of the canal on the Canada 
side, and is terminated at its junction with Lake Onta- 
rio by the erection of four locks of nine feet each. 

The entire cost of this canal, which with the Welland 
canal (heretofore noticed) forms a chain of internal 
communication between Halifax and the Gulf of Mexi- 
co, was rising of £300,000. 

FROM MONTREAL TO ClUEBEC— 170 miles. 

The St. Lawrence from Montreal to Gluebec is navi- 
gated by a number of excellent steam-boats, and the 
passage between the two cities is d?lightful. A large 
majority of the inhabitants of Lower Canada are crowd- 
ed together near the shores of the St. Lawrence, and 
few interruptions of forest land intervene in the whole 
distance between the two principal cities. The dwell- 
ings and cultivated grounds are so frequent and con- 
tinuous, that each side of the river, in fact, becomes al- 
most an unbroken street ; with groups of houses in the 
vicinity of the several churches, which are erected gen- 
rally in sight of the passing steam-boat, except on Lake 
St. Peter. The churches are from six to nine miles 
distant from each other, and upwards of twenty in num- 
ber, forming, many of them, prominent objects to give 
embellishment and charm to the novel and otherwise 
very attractive scenery. All travellers sleep one night 
at least on board the steam-boat while journeying be- 
tween the two cities ; and it is recommended that they 
should arrange the hour of departure from Quebec, 



William henrt. 297 

(which is always at low water) bo that ihey may view 
by day-Iiufht that part of the river which had been be- 
fore passed in the night. A journey to Cluebec and 
back again, which a few years since was the labor 
of some weeks, may now be accompUshed, by means 
of steam-boats, in less than three days. The distance 
between the two cities is 1 70 miles. 

From Montreal, the boat first passes near the Fort 
on the St. Helen's Island and soon enters the rapids of 
St. Mary ; in returning up which, steamboats are often 
drawn by cattle. Proceeding down the river, the vil- 
lages of Longueil, Longue Pointe, Vercheres, Varennes, 
Point aux Trembles, Contrecoeur, Repentigny, St. Sul- 
pice, La Morage, Berthier and Machiche are succes- 
sively passed, before reaching the town of 

William Henry, which is 40 miles from Montreal. 
It stands on the site of an old fort, built in 1 665, on 
the right bank of the river Sorel, at its confluence with 
the St. Lawrence. The present town was commenc- 
ed in 1785. It is regularly laid out with streets, cross- 
ing each other at right angles, leaving a space in the 
centre about 500 feet square. The number of dwell- 
ings does not exceed 200, and its population 2000. 
Near the town is a seat which was formerly the resi- 
dence of the Governor General of Canada, during the 
summer months. Opposite the town, the river Sorel 
is 250 vards broad, and is naviuable for vessels of 150 
tons, for twelve or fourteen miles. On this river, which 
unites the waters of Lake Champlain with the St. Law- 
rence, are two considerable forts, the one at St. John's 
and the other at Chambly. Sorel was occupied in 



298 THREE RIVERS. 

May, 1776, by a part of the American army, under 
General Thomas, on their retreat from duebec. 

Lake Sft. Peter, some miles below the town of Sorel, 
is formed by an expansion of the river St. Lawrence, to 
15 or 20 miles in width, and 21 in length. The waters 
of the lake have but little current, and are from 8 to 1 1 
feet deep. At the upper end of the lake a variety of 
small islands are interspersed, which are the only ones 
that occur in the St. Lawrence till you reach the island 
of Orleans, a distance of 117 miles. On the north side 
of this lake is the town of 

Three Rivers, at the mouth of tlie St. Maurice, 
which is divided by two small islands into three branch- 
es. This town was formerly the seat of the Colonial 
Government, and is now considered the third in im- 
portance in the Province. It contains about 400 houses, 
including a Roman Catholic and an Episcopal church, 
and a Convent of Ursulines — also the barracks former- 
ly occupied by the governor, during the French regime. 
The number of inhabitants is estimated at 3000. Some 
miles up the St. Maurice are the celebrated falls of 
Shawinnegame, a beautiful cataract of about 100 feet 
descent. 

Seven miles below Three P»,ivers, the Richelieu rapids 
commence. The river is compressed within less than 
half a mile in width, and the water moves with great 
velocity for three or four miles ; but bein^ deep and 
the current unbroken, except at the shores, the descent 
is made by steam-boats without danger, except in the 
night, when a descent is never attempted. 

The scenery of the St. Lawrence is occasionally re- 
lieved by the prospect of the distant mountains, the 



QUEBEC. 299 

highest of which does not exceed 1000 feet, but rising 
in the back ground of the cultivated vales along the 
borders of the river, give an additional degree of beauty 
and novelty to many of its landscapes. The alternate 
variety of the waters of the St. Lawrence, now repos- 
ing in stillness on the bosom of an expanded lake, and 
now rushing v.'ith the rapidity of a cataract, added to 
the pleasing effect of the landscape scenery, afford an 
agreeable repast to the tourist, until he' reaches the 
classic scenes of duebec. Soon after leaving Cape 
Rouge, and the little village of St. Nicholas, near the 
mouth of the Chaudiere river, the towers and citadel of 
this famous city open to view, situated on a rock of 345 
feet in height, called Cape Diamond, from the gem-like 
quality of the chrystals which are found intermingled 
M'ith the granite beneath its surface. In approaching 
the city, you pass Sillery River and Cove, and Wolfe's 
Cove, where he landed his army to gain the heights 
of Abraham, about 1| miles from Gtuebec. Point Levi 
appears on the right, a rocky precipice, covered with 
white dwellings, and commanding the citadel of Que- 
bec from the opposite shore. 

aUEBEC* 

Is situated upon a high peninsular point of land, at 
the continence of the Rivers St. Lawrence and St. 
Charles, the junction of which forms a capacious and 
beautiful bay and harbour. 



* For a description of this place, the writer is princi- 
pally indebted to the " Picture of Cluebec," recently 
published in that city. 

aa2 



300 dUEBEC. 

From the New Exchange at the extremity of the 
point on the north-east, the hmits of the city jurisdic- 
tion extend in a direct line about north-west to a bend 
in the St. Charles River, near the General Hospital. 
On the St. Lawrence River the south-west point of the 
Banlieu is about equi-distant from the Exchange, the 
whole plat approximating to a triangle, the longest side 
of which passes a short distance to the west of the Mar- 
tello Towers, measuring one mile and five furlongs or 
2860 yards from the St. Charles to the St. Lawrence. 

A straight line, drawn from one river to the other, at 
the Barrier on the south and west, is rather more than 
a mile in length, and the whole wall is two miles and 
three quarters in circuit ; but including the Citadel, the 
Esplanade, the different large gardens, and other va- 
cant spaces, a considerable proportion of the interior 
area within the fortification remains unoccupied for 
buildings. 

The city and environs are thus subdivided : That 
part which is w^ithin the walls is called the Upper 
Town, and can be approached solely by five gates. On 
the eastern side of the Cape towards the St. Lawrence, 
there is only one avenue to entet* it, by a circuitous 
steep hill, through Prescott Gate; wliich is the chief 
thoroughfare for all the commercial business of the 
port especially during the navigable season, and then 
Mountain street, as this route is named, presents the 
appearance of a crowded and active population. On 
the north of the city, and where the promontory has 
considerably declined in height, there are two entran- 
ces — Hope Gate, not far from the eastern extremity of 
the rampart, and Palace Gate adjoining the Armoury 



QUEBEC. 301 

ajid the Artillery Barracks. I'heae gates are on thai 
side of the city which is v, ashed by the St. Charles. 
From the land there are two avenues to the interior of 
the fortifications : that to the east is known as the St. 
Louis Gate, wliich conducts by a beautiful road to the 
Plains of Abraham ; the other is at the end of St. John 
street, and thence denominated St, Johs's Gate. This 
is the route through which the chief part of the country 
trade passes. 

The long street from the termination of the Banlieu 
on tlie south-west, upon tlie St. Lawrence, skirting the 
Gape round to the Wood Yard belonging to the Gov- 
ernment, including Mountain street to the Prescott 
Gate, and all the other shorter streets between the hill 
and the river, are generally denominated the Lower 
Town. The portion between the road outside of the 
Gate of St. Louis and that of St. John street, to the 
line of the Banlieu, is called the suburbs of St. Louia. 
From St. John street northerly to the Cote St. Gene- 
vieve, and returning to the end of the Banlieu, all the 
buildings are included in the St. John suburbs ; and 
the large district extending from the Wood Yard along 
by the foot of the hill to the western exti-emity of the 
Banlieu, and bounded on the north-west by the St. 
Charles River, bears the appellation of the suburbs of 
St. Roch. 

As travellers are generally restricted to time, they 
have often failed to gratify their curiosity for want of a 
directory or guide, by which they might with the great- 
est facility view the most important objects, and also 
from not having previously obtained a letter of intro- 
duction to some respectable citizen who would accom- 



302 QUEBEC. 

pany them in their explorations. To remove these ob- 
stacles, the following methodical plan of an excursion 
through the city, and the accompanying descriptions 
are given. They vAll be found to be accurate, and will 
save the tourist from innumerable perplexities, to which 
he w^ould otherwise be subjected. 

Taking the Upper Town ^Market-House as the place 
of departure, the observer has on the west the ancient 
Monastery of the Jesuits, now used as the Barracks 
for the troops of the garrison. It is a capacious quad- 
rangular edifice of 75 yards by 67, encircled by a wall 
which measures on the north the whole length of Fab- 
rique street, and more than 200 yards on St. Anne st. 
The area enclosed, and which now is appropriated for 
the parades and exercise of the troops, was formerly 
an elegant garden. Fronting on the east side of Mar- 
ket-Placc is the principal 

Roman Catholic Church, Avhich is open nearly the 
whole hours of day-light. It is a massive unornament- 
cd and spacious stone building. From the vestibule, 
the body of the interior is subdivided into equal pro- 
portions. At the termination of the nave is the grand 
altar in the middle of the eUipss constituting the sanc- 
tum, the walls of %\'hich are ornamented with represen- 
tations and figures, commingled with various other 
graphical emblems. Among the pictures are the con- 
ception — the Apostle Paul in liis extatic vision — the 
Saviour ministered unto by angels — the flight of Jo- 
seph and Mary — the Redeemer and the cross — the na- 
tivity of Christ — the Saviour under the contimielious 
outrages of the soldiers — the day of Pentecost — and the 
Holy Family- During the seige of Quebec, in 1759, 



"mH 



QUEBEC. 303 

this church was set on fire by shells discharged from a 
battery on Point Levi, and all the paintings and orna- 
ments consumed except the first above mentioned, 
which was afterwards found among the ruins. The 
avenue north of the church conducts the tourist to 

The Seminary, a capacious superstructure of stone, 
in the form of a parallelogram. It is encircled by a 
large garden, walled in, measuring in the whole about 
seven acres. This institution was estabhshed in 1663, 
and was originally designed for the education of eccle- 
siastics ; but this exclusive system was long since 
abandoned, and it is now open for the reception of all 
who comply with its regulations. Attached to the 
Seminary is a museum of natural curiosities ; and on 
the left of the grand entrance from Market-Place is 
the vestibule of the chapel, in which are a great varie- 
ty of sacred paintings. From this the tourist can pro- 
ceed to the church ; and from thence to the 

Place d\irmes, where on the east of the Pentagon is 
the Castle of St. Lewis, the residence of the Governor, 
and which from its peculiar situation, constitutes one of 
the principal objects of notice in all views of the city, 
from Beaufort easterly to the Chaudiere. At its base, 
the rock is nearly 200 feet in perpendicular height, and 
the building on the east is sustained by strong stone 
buttresses, on which is laid a wide balcony extending 
along the whole length, and whence the beauties of 
the northern and eastern landcape are beheld. The 
building is three stories high, and about 160 feet long ; 
and attached to it are several buildings containing the 
public offices. On the west corner of the Place d'Armes 
stood the Episcopal church, which was burnt 3 or 4 



304 <iUESEC. 

years since. On the soutti side, and nearly adjoining, 
is the 

Court House, a plain neat building of stone about 
1 40 feet long, and as many broad. It stands where once 
Btood a church belonging to the order of the Recollets, 
which was burnt in 1796. 

On the corner of Fort street, south of the castle of 
St. Lewis, is a large building used for public offices, the 
front room of which, on the first story, contains the 
Museum of the " Society for promoting Literature, Sci- 
ence, Arts and Historical research in Canada." A visit 
to it will prove extremely interesting. Crossing the 
Place d'Armes to Des Carrieres street, the visitor will 
next inspect the 

Monument, erected in memory of Wolf and Mont- 
calm. This consists of a base and a pillar, surmount- 
ed by a vignette of graphic delineation. The base is 
about 6 by 5 feet, and the whole height of the monu- 
ment is SLxt)'-five feet. It contains two Latin inscrip- 
tions. After viewing from the promenade at the exte- 
rior of the Governor's quarters the beauteous landscape 
diverging to the north-east, the visitor will return to St. 
Lewis street, Vvhere, after passing the office of the 
Commissariat, he will turn by Parloir street, to the 

Ursuline Jfimnery and Church. This Nunnery and 
the land adjoining it occupy a space of about seven 
acres which is surrounded by a high barrier of stone. 
The institution was founded in 1639, and the edifice, 
which is of stone, is two stories high, 114 feet long, 
and about 40 broad. At the east projection is the 
chapel, about 100 feet long and 50 in breadth, the inte- 
rior of which is highly decorated. The convent is neat 



1 



QUEBEC. 



305 



and includes a superior, 42 assistants and 7 novices, 
the chief employment of whom is the tuition of a large 
number of girls in common knowledge and other ciuali- 
fications. They are more rigid and retired than the 
inmates of any other conventual institution in Canada. 
Persons of distinction only are permitted to examine 
the domestic departments ; but the Chaplain, whose 
apartments are on the right of the entrance, permits 
strangers to examine the church on application to him. 
Among the paintings there exhibited, are the portraits 
of some of the Popes — the birth of Immanuel — the Sa- 
viour exhibiting bis heart to the Religieuses — the Sa- 
viour taken down from the cross — a cargo of Christians 
captured by the Algerines — Louis xiii. of France — and 
several devices taken from the scriptures. The altars 
are highly ornamented and imposing. 

Leaving the nunnery, the visitor wdll next proceed by 
Anne street, with the south wing of the barracks on 
his right to the Presbyterian Church. Passing its front 
he will leave the jail on the right, where he pursues 
his course to the 

Esplanade. If he has no citizen as a companion, and 
no other m.ode of visiting the fortification, he should 
turn up St. Ursule to St. Louis street, and at the mili- 
tary offices request from the adjutant general a card of 
admission to walk round the interior of the 

Citadel. This stupenduous fortress circumscribes the 
whole area on the highest part of Cape Diamond, and 
is intended not only to accommodate the rarrison as a 
residence, parade, &c. but also to inchide all the mate- 
riel of war. It perfectly commands the city and river 
St. Lawrence j and when completed will be not only 



306 QUEBEC, 

the most powerful specimen of military architecture on 
the western continent, but also a rival of many of the 
renowned works in the Netherlands. All attempts to 
describe the Citadel in its present unfinished state would 
be nugatory. 

Having entered the grand western gate, where the 
visitor leaves his ticket with the soldier on guard, and 
examined the edifice, he will first proceed round the 
course of the Citadel to the flag staff and telegraph ; 
thence southerly by the parapet bordering on the river 
to the machinery at the head of the rail-way, or in- 
clined plane, which is 500 feet long, extending from 
the wharf to the Cape, where its perpendicular eleva- 
tion is 345 feet above the stream. This rail-way is used 
by the government alone, to convey stones and other 
articles of great weight and bulk, for the erection of the 
new fortress. 

Having surveyed from the highest point the majes- 
tic scene in every diversified aspect of hill and dale, 
land and water, the visitor will follow the course of the 
wall on his left hand, until he returns to the same gate, 
and pursue his walk by it, over St. Louis gate along 
the Esplanade, until he arrives opposite the church of 
the Congreganistes, immediately below which is the 
national school house. 

Proceeding along St. John street, he will turn north 
of St. Stanislaus street, on the east side of which stands 
Trinity chapel, whence crossing Carleton street, he 
arrives at the artillery barracks and the armoury — the 
latter of which may be inspected, if a resident of the 
city be in company. 



QUEBEC. 307 

Opposite the armoury is the anatomical room of the 
medical society. Thence walking up Palace street, on 
the right hand is St. Helen street, where is Mr. Chas- 
sem-'s natural museum. Returning into Palace street, 
the visitor crosses obliquely above to Colhns' Lane, in 
which stands on the left, the 

Chapel of the Hotel Dieic. These premises include a 
large proportion of the northern part of the interior of 
the city — commencing from the gate of the burial ground 
on Couillard street, and extending to Palace street, 
with a wall on the north, parallel to the fortifications ; 
the whole space occupying about tvv^elve acres. This 
institution was commenced in 1637, under the auspices 
of the Duchess of Aiguillon, and was consecrated to 
the reception and care of the sick, who are indigent 
and distressed. It is a capacious edifice, the longest 
portion of which extends nearly one hundred and thirty 
yards by seventeen in depth, and three stories high. 
On the north-west side from the centre, a range is erect- 
ed two stories high, fifty yards in length, and nearly as 
many feet broad, plain and unadorned. This wing is 
appropriated for the patients ; the upper story of which 
is occupied by the females. All proper attendance both 
from the nuns and physicians, with every necessary 
comfort, is gratuitously administered. 

In the convent the sisterhood reside, who now include 
the superieu re, thirty-three religeuses professes, two no- 
vices and one postulante. The regularity, neatness 
and purity with which the establishment is conducted, 
and the solace of the wretched M'ho find refuge in this 
hospitable domain, are highly exemplary. 

BB 



308 QUEBEC. 

The church of the Hotel Dieii, externally, is perfect- 
ly plain, and the interior is little adorned. The paint- 
ings may be examined upon application to the chaplain. 

Having completed an examination of the Hotel Dieu, 
with the surrounding garden, the visitor may next fol- 
low Couillard, St. Joachin and St. George's streets to 
the Grand Battenj and the ancient palace of the Catho- 
lic bishop, now used by the provincial parliament ; or 
he can return to Palace street, and continue his pro- 
gress to the gate, where, by passing the guard house 
and pursuing his walk easterly, he may accurately un- 
derstand the nature of the defence which the city can 
make against external assault. 

The first house at which he arrives is distinguished 
as the residence of the renowned Montcalm, There he 
may turn to the right which will lead him to Couillard 
street, or he can continue his walk passing Hope Gate, 
until he arrives at the Look-out from the north-east 
platform of the battery. 

In the lower town, the only objects which merit no- 
tice, besides the inclined plain or rail-way to the Cita- 
del, are the Exchange Reading Room, and the Gluebec 
Library, which are always open for the admission of 
strangers, if regularly introduced, and are worthy of 
inspection. 

About one hundred yards from the lower end of the 
rail-way. General Montgomery and his aids with other 
men were killed on the morning of December 31, 1775, 
when proceeding to the assault of Gluebec. The place 
may be easily recognized, notwithstanding the altera- 
tions which have occurred. At that period, a narrow 
path only was made between the foot of the hill and 



QUEBEC. 309 

the river, so that vessels were fastened to the rock by 
large iron bolts, one of which still remains, near the 
very spot whei-e the American General and his ad- 
vanced party were discomfited. The wharves, houses, 
&c. all have been long since constructed. At the top 
of the small ascent on the street immediately below, 
the small battery had been erected, near tlie plat where 
the southerly forge is now stationed. As Montgomery 
led on the attack, the British retreated before him. In 
passing round Cape Diamond, the ice and projecting 
rocks rendered it necessary for the Americans to press 
forward in a narrow file, until they arrived at the block 
house and picket. The General was himself in front, 
and assisted with his own hands to cut down and pull 
up the picket. The roughness of the way had so 
lengthened his line of march, that he was obliged to 
wait for a force to come up before he could proceed. 
Having re-assembled about 200 men, he advanced 
boldly and rapidly at their head to force the barrier. 
One or two of the enemy had by this time ventured to 
return to the battery, and seeing a match standing by 
one of the guns, touched it off, when the American 
force was within forty paces of it. This single and ac- 
cidental fire struck down General Montgomery and his 
aids, Captain M'Pherson and Captain Cheesman. 

The remains of Montgomery were interred by a sol- 
dier of the name of Thompson within a wall that sur- 
rounded a powder nngazine near the ramparts bound- 
ing on St. Lewis' gate; and in 1818 were ren)oved to 
New-York, where thoy wer^ deposited beneath a mon 
ument in front of St. Paul'fs church, 



310 PLAINS OF ABRAHAM. 

The Plains of Abraham lie south and west of Q,ue- 
bec. The visitor, on leaving St. Lous gate, should turn 
up the stairs to the Glacis, continue his course under 
the citadel, and pursue a path to the right. At the 
termination of the enclosure, the bank is ascended to 
the Plains of Abraham, near the spot where Wolfe died. 
The large house at a distance in the front is erected on 
the scite of a French redoubt, which defended the as- 
cent fi'om Wolfe's Cove, and was the primary object of 
assault and capture, after the top of the hill had been 
gained by the British troops. The precipice at the 
Cove, from 150 to 200 feet in height, and full of projec- 
tions of rocks and trees, seemed to be rendered almost 
inaccessible. General Wolfe, however, with unparal- 
leled fortitude, led the way in the night (Sept. 12, 1759) 
through a narrow path winding obliquely up the hill, 
which, wuth the assistance of boughs and stumps, ena- 
bled him and his troops to gain the summit. Here, by 
day-light the next morning, they were formed in line of 
battle, in readiness to meet the enemy. 

General Montcalm, on receiving information that 
the British had possession of the heights, broke up his 
camp at Beaufort, crossed the St. Charles river, and at- 
about 10 o'clock in the morning commenced the attack. 
After a desperate struggle of about two hours, in which 
both commanders had been mortally wounded, the 
French gave way, and left the field in possession of the 
victors. 

Wolfe fell at the critical moment that decided the 
victory. He was wounded iti the early part of the en- 
gagement by a bullet in his wrist — soon after by a ball 
which passed through his groin — and it was not until a 



PALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 311 

third had pierced his breast, that he suffered himself to 
be carried from the field. " I die happy," was his ex- 
clamation, when in the arms of death he heard the joy- 
ful shouts of victory. 

The Marldlo Toioers, consisting of four circular forts, 
are situated at tiie northern extremity of the Plains of 
Abraham, about half a mile in advance of the exterior 
grand wall of the fortifications. They are numbered 
from the river St. Lawrence to the General Hospital, 
and guard the approaches to the city on the south and 
west. They are nearly 40 feet in height, M'ith a base 
diameter almost equal ; and the exterior wall is of am- 
ple strength to resist a cannonade. 

Gluebec, like Montreal, suffered severely from the 
Asiatic cholera in the summer of 1832. From the 
commencement of the disease in June, until its termi- 
nation about the first of September, it is estimated there 
were not less than 2,500 deaths ; being equal to about 
one tenth of its population. 

The Falls of Montmorenci, are situated about 8 
miles north-east of Clucbec, on the river of the same 
name, near its junction with the St. Lawrence. These 
falls pour over a perpendicular precipice 240 feet in 
height, and may almost compare in beauty and gran- 
deur with the cataract of Niagara. 

The effect from the summit of the cliff is awfully 
grand and sublime. The prodigious depth of the de- 
scent of the M'aters of this surprising fall ; the bright- 
ness and volubility of their course ; the swiftness of 
their movement through the air ; and the loud and hol- 
low noise emitted from the basin, swelling with inces- 
sant agitation from the weight of the dashing waters, 
bb2 



312 FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 

forcibly combine to attract the attention, and to impress 
the mind of the spectator with sentiments of grandeur 
and elevation. The breadth of the, fall is 100 feet ; and 
the basin, which is bounded by steep cliffs, forms an 
angle of forty-five degrees. When viewed from the 
beach, the cataract is seen, with resplendent beauty, to 
flow down the gloomy precipice, the summit of which 
is crowded with woods. The diffusion of the stream, 
to 'the breadth of 1,500 feet, and the various small cas- 
cades produced by the inequalities of its rocky bed, on 
its way to the St. Lawrence, display a very singular 
and pleasing combination. 

Remains of entrenchments and fortifications erected 
during the French war are still to be seen near the falls. 
A battery occupied by Gen. Wolfe, in June, 1759, on 
the precipice north-east of the falls, is yet visible. The 
French occupied the opposite bank ; and Wolfe at- 
tempted to storm their works by fording the river be- 
low the falls and ascending the heights. Without 
forming in a regular manner, and without waiting for 
additional reinforcements which were on their way from 
Point Levi, W^olte's men rashly ascended the hill, 
eager for the onset, and were cut down by the French 
artillery and musquetry, and obliged to retreat. The 
English loss was about 500 ; while that of the French 
was trifling. A storm coming on, further attempts to 
dislodge the French were abandoned. The British af- 
terwards ascended the river, and the action on the 
Plains of Abraham, which has already been noticed, 
took place in the month of September following. 

There are three points which afford the best views of 
the Falls, 1. From the upper window of the mill, 



FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 313 

whence the projecting leap is safely seen. 2. Having 
crossed the bridge, the visitor proceeds along the brow 
of the hill until he arrives nearly in front of the whole 
cataract ; from this summit, the view, with the concom- 
itant circumstances, inspire commingled emotions of 
awe, terror and astonishment. From the same spot, 
there is a lucid and beauteous prospect of Gluebec, 
with its encircling scenery ; and with an ordinary mag- 
nifying glass, the observer can discern all the promi- 
nent objects — the steeples, towers, fortincations, prin- 
cipal edifices, the shipping, the course of the St. Law- 
rence, until it is lest among the hills — Point Levi and 
its vicinity — the north side of the island of Orleans — 
the point of Ange Gardien — and the shores of the river 
as far as Cape Tourment. 3. Hence the visitor de- 
scends the hill, and pursuing its course to the right, he 
may ordinarily advance to the rock which interrupts 
the turbulence of the stream when discharged into the 
chasm. In the view from below, the most vivid im- 
pressions of tliis gorgeous cascade are produced ; and 
travellers who do not thus survey the Falls, can form 
only a faint and incorrect idea of its apparently chang- 
ing effect. 

At a considerable distance above the Falls, the chan- 
nel of the river is contracted between high vertical 
rocks, and the water rushes with proportionate velocity. 
Tn one part at about half a mile from the bridge, cas- 
cades of three or four yards in depth are adjacent to 
two fine geological curiosities, familiarly denominated 
the tN'atural Steps, which appear to have been formed 
by the attrition of the stream, occasioned by the melt- 
ing of the snows and the augmented rapidity of the 



314 



LORETTEc 



flood. Many of these steps are so regular, that they 
almost develope the process of human art. The per- 
pendicular attitude of the rocks on the east side — the 
tree-crowned summit — the uniformity of appearance, 
resembling an ancient castle wall in ruins — the preci- 
pices on the western bank — and the foaming noisy 
current pourtray a romantic wildness, which is highly 
attractive. Observers are amply remunerated for their 
walk, as conjoined with this interesting object, they 
witness the continuous descent and the accelerating 
force and celerity with wliich the river is propelled to 
the point, whence it is precipitated into the St. Law- 
rence. 

LoRETTE, an Indian village, about 8 miles from the 
city, can be taken in the route to or from the Falls of 
Montmorenci. It is built upon an elevated situation, 
whence there is an extensively varied and agreeable 
landscape, in many points similar to that from Cape 
Diamond, but also including some interesting novelties 
of outline. It exhibits a bold and beautiful view of 
Gtuebec and its suburbs, and in its extent, it is bounded 
solely by the distant southern mountains. The Indian 
inhabitants of the village retain many of the prominent 
characteristics of the aboriginal roamers of the forest, 
combined with vicious habits contracted by their prox- 
imity to a large sea-port, and their intercourse with its 
migratory population. At this village is a very charm- 
ing view of the river St. Charles tumbling and foaming 
over the rocks and ledges to a great depth. The rug- 
ged and pependicularly elevated woody cliffs in con- 
nection with the impetuous rush of the waters, although 
circumscribed in extent, and therefore affording no ex- 



CHAUDIERE FALLS. 315 

panded prospect in immediate front, yet as seen from 
the Saw-Miil, and from the bank and the bridge at the 
head of the dell, in its different positions and aspects, 
constitute an object, which, when contrasted with the 
more majestic cataracts of INIontmorenci and the Chau- 
diere, or recollected in combination with them, furnishes 
in memorial an addition to the varieties which those 
stupendous natural curiosities embody. 

The Chaudiere Falls can be approached by land 
or water. The former is generally preferred, the dis- 
tance to the mouth of the Chaudiere being nine miles 
from Cluebec. From thence visitors can cross at the 
ferry and take an indirect path to the west bank of the 
river, or diverge from the St. Lawrence some distance 
north of the Chaudiere, and arrive within a short walk 
of the falls on the eastern bank. The river at the cas- 
cade is much compressed, being only about 400 feet 
across ; and the depth into the Pot, as it is usually 
termed, is about 135 feet. Many rocks divide the 
stream, precisely at the fall, into three chief currents, of 
which the westerl}' is the largest — these partially re- 
unite before their broken and agitated waves are re- 
ceived into the basin ; where each dashing against the 
other maintains a turbulent whirlpool. The form of 
the rock forces a part of the waters into an oblique di- 
rection, advancing them beyond the line of the preci- 
pice, while the cavities in the rocks increase the foaming 
fury of the revolving waters in their descent, displaying 
globular figures of brilliant whiteness, which are richly 
contrasted M^ith the encirling dark and gloomy cliffs, 
while the ascending spray developes all the variety of 
the coloured cloudy arch, and enhvens the beauty of 



316 ST, LAWRENCE RIVER. 

the landscape ; the wild diversity of rocks, the foliage 
of the overhanging woods, the rapid motion, the eflTul- 
gent brightness and the deeply solemn sound of the 
cataracts, all combining to present a rich assemblage of 
objects highly attractive, especially when the visitor, 
emerging from the wood, is instantaneously surprised 
by the deliglitful scene. Below, the view is greatly 
changed, and the falls produce an additional strong and 
vivid impression. If strangers only view the falls from 
one side of the river, the prospect from the eastern 
shore is recommended as preferable. 

The Montmorenci and Chaudiere Falls, the village 
of Loretto and Lake St. Charles, together with the 
scenery of Orleans, a beautiful island six miles down the 
St. Lawrence, Beaufort and Point Levi, will always af- 
ford interesting excursions to the tourist at Q-uebec. 

The St. Lawrence below CIuebec. — Those who 
have not seen this part of this greatest of the navigable 
rivers in the world, can form but a very imperfect idea 
of its grandeur, and the magnificence of its scener}'. 
Above the island of Orleans, the St. Lawrence is com- 
paratively confined to a narrow channel passing through 
a level country, offering much sameness on the south 
shore, with the mountains on the north, too distant to 
produce much effect. The views on the great Lakes 
of the St. Lav/rence in the Upper Province, stretching 
out of sight of land, differ little from those on any ex- 
tended sea coast studded with islands, and bordered 
with towns and habitations. 

The St. Lawrence below the Island of Orleans, from 
many points on its northern banks, lays open to the 
view a hundred miles of a river varying from twenty to 



SAGUENAT RIVER. 



317 



twenty-five miles in width, the whole course and coast 
of which, in this clear atmosphere, can be distinctly 
discerned. Beautiful islands covered with neat dwel- 
lings and cultivated fields, contrast with those that are 
of bare rock, or covered with wood; the crowded set- 
tlements, the villages and distant highlands on the 
south shore, are opposed to the bold and lofty moun- 
tains of the north, crowned with the native forests, and 
impending over the margin of the river, while the val- 
leys formed by the streams and torrents of these moun- 
tain regions, leave openings in which the village spires 
are discernible in front of the bare, rugged, and stupen- 
dous ranges in the interior. In other places the set- 
tlements extend nearly to the tops of the mountains, 
presenting to the view neat dwellings, luxuriant har- 
vests, and green fields, etched out on the face of the 
wildest of nature's domains. Along the main channel 
of the river, numbers of the thousands of vessels which 
frequent Glucbec during the season of navigation, are 
continually passing up or down under crowded sails, 
or quietly anchored, waiting the tides or winds, and 
from behind every cape and promontory, among the isl- 
ands, and in every bay and creek, the smaller vessels 
and boats are constantly plying in the industrious pur- 
suits of the inhabitants, or on excursions of social in- 
tercourse. It is a scene which elevates the mind to de- 
vout contemplation, and a just appreciation of the benfits 
of peaceful industry. 

The inhabitants of this part of the St. Lawrence are 
estimated at about 100,000. 

The Saguenay, which enters the St. Lawrence on 
its northern shore, about 100 miles below Q,uebec, is 



318 SAGUENAY RIVER. 

one of the most extraordinary rivers in the world. It 
is the grand outlet of the waters from the Saguenay 
country into the St. Lawrence, and although only a 
tributary stream, has the appearance of a long mountain 
lake, in an extent of fifty miles, rather than that of a 
river. The scenery is of the most wild and magnificent 
description. The river varies from about a mile to two 
miles in breadth, and follows its impetuous course in a 
south-east direction, through a deep valley formed by 
mountains of gneiss and sienitic granite, wliich in some 
places rise vertically from the water-side to an elevation 
of two thousand feet. 

There is a feature attending this river, which renders 
it a natural curiosity, and is probably the only instance 
of the kind. The St. Lawrence is about eighteen miles 
wide at their confluence, and has a depth of about two 
hundred and forty feet. A ridge of rocks below the 
surface of the water, through which there is a channel 
about one hundred and twenty feet deep, lies across the 
mouth of the Saguenay, within which the depth in- 
creases to eight hundred and forty feet, so that the bed 
of the Saguenay is absolutely six hundred feet below 
that of the St. LaAvrence into which it falls, a depth 
which is preserved many miles up the river. So extra- 
ordinary a feature could only occur in a rocky country, 
such as is found in some parts of Canada, where the 
beauties of nature are displayed in their wildest form. 
The course of the tide, meeting with resistance from 
the rocks at the mouth of the Saguenay, occasions a 
violent ripling, or surf, which is much increased and ex- 
ceedingly dangerous to boats during the ebb tide. The 
extraordinary depth of the river, and the total want of 



SAGUENAY RIVER. 319 

information concerning it, has given rise to an idea 
among the credulous fishermen, of its being in many 
parts unfathomable. This effect is admissible on unin- 
formed minds, for there is always an appearance of 
mystery about a river when its water is even discol- 
oured so as to prevent the bed from being seen, and the 
delusion is here powerfully assisted by the lofty over- 
shadowing precipices of either shore. 

Following the course of the river upwards, it pre- 
serves a westerly direction to the distance of about sixty 
miles, in some parts about half a mile broad, in others 
expanding into small lakes, about two miles across to 
their borders, being interspersed with a few low islands. 
In the narrow parts pi' the river, the depth at the dis- 
tance of a few yards from the precipice forming the 
bank, is six hundred feet, and in the middle of the river 
it increases to nearly nine hundred. Here the navigation 
is suddenly terminated by a succession of falls and 
rapids, near which is situated the trading post of Chi- 
cotimy. At this place there is an old church, built 
about two centuries ago by the Jesuits, who were ac- 
tive in civilizing the native Indians. The church is still 
kept in decent repair by the Indians, and is annually 
visited by a missionary priest. These people are few 
in number and ai*e not to be met with between this tra- 
ding post and the mouth of the river. A fine tract of 
country commences here, intersected by several rivers 
issuing from- lake St. John, distant about sixty-seven 
miles farther to the westward. The little communica- 
tion which is carried on with this lake is, by means of 
these rivers, in bark canoes, and batteaux, and flat- 
bottomed boats of the country ; but it is subject to 

CO 



320 FTvOM MONTREAL TO WHITEHALL. 

much interruption frouj the portages, or carrying places, 
necessary to avoid the numerous fulls in them. The 
tide of emigration is directed in this quarter. 

It was in tliis river, that the ships of the French 
squadron found a secure retreat, at the memorable siege 
of Gluebec under Gen. Wolfe. 

At the mouth of the St. Lawrence, 360 miles below 
Glhebec, the river is 100 miles wide. It here connects 
■with the Gulph of St. Lawrence, 350 miles long and 
150 wide, which communicates with the Atlantic by 
three different passages. 

FROM aUEBEC TO MONTREAL. 

In returning to Montreal, the traveller (as before re- 
marked) should, if practicable, take a boat at such an 
hour as to give him a chance of viewing by day-light 
on the river the scenery which, jn descending, was 
passed in the night. 

The approach to Montreal in ascending the river is 
extremely beautiful. The mount behind the city cloth- 
ed in a rich and iinbroken foliage, the numerous adja- 
cent country seats, the spires and edifices of the city, 
and the beautiful woody island in front, all conspire in 
presenting a rich and truly diversified landscape, and 
one that will not be easily effaced from the memory. 
[For a descHption of Montreal, see p. 286.] 

FROM MONTREAL* TO WHITEHALL, 

Is 181 miles, and the intervening distances are as fol- 
lows: 



* At Montreal a stage can be taken twice a week for 
Danville, Vt. distant 100 miles ; from thence to the 



CHAMBLY — ST. JOIIKS. 321 



Miles. 

Bnrliiioton, 11 

Split Rock, 12 

Essex, 2 

Basin Harbor, 12 

Crown Point, 12 

Ticonderoira, 15 

Whiteliali; 24 



Miles. 

Lon^ueil, 2 

Chambly, 13 

St. Johns, 12 

Isle Aux JNoix, 14 

Rouse's Point, 10 

Chazy, 12 

Plattsburgh, , 15 

Port Kent, 15 

From Montreal the St. Lawrence is crossed in a 
horseboat to Longueil,* a distance of two miles. After 
leaving Longueil, the country becomes remarkably 
level, until you reach 

Chambly, 13 miles distant. This is a considerable 
town, on the river Sorel, containing extensive barracks 
and some troops. In the vicinity is High Mountain, 
wliich confines between its conical summits a lake of 
pure watei*. The fort is built of stone, in a quadran- 
gular form, and resembles in its appearance an ancient 
castle. From this place the road follows the river, until 
you arrive at 

St. Johns, a distance of 12 miles. This place was 
an important post during the French and Revolutionary 



Notch in the White Mountains, 28 miles ; from thence 
to Concord, N. H., 75 miles ; and from thence to Bos- 
ton, 68 miles. The whole route is performed in four 
days. [For a description of the While Mountains, see 
^^ Route from Burlington to Boston.'''] 

* The route may be varied so as to pass through La 
Prairie, a village of about 200 houses, and the grand 
thoroughfare for trade between Montreal and St. Johns, 
though the I'oute through Longueil is considered pre- 
ferable, 



322 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN ISLE AUX NOIX. 



wars. In the latter it was taken, after a gallant de- ' 
lence, by General Montgomery, as was also Chambly. . 
It contains, at present, about 100 houses and 800 in- | 
habitants. Though a place of considerable business, ; 
it possesses nothing in its appearance or accommoda- 
tions inviting to a stranger. Steam boats leave St. 
Johns daily for Whitehall, and touch at at all the inter- 
mediate places on the Lake. Fare through, $5. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN, 

Forms part of the boundary line between the states 
of New-York and Vermont. Its length is 140 miles, 
and the greatest breadth 14. A great proportion of the 
lands on the margin of the lake are still unredeemed 
from a state of nature, and in some places, particularly 
at the north end, are low and marshy. After entering: 
the territories of the United States, the country is more 
populous, and under a better state of improvement,' 
The villages seen from the lake all exhibit a cheerful 
and thriving appearance. The lake properly terminates- 
at Mount Independence ; from whence to Whitelmll, a 
distance of 23 miles, it assumes the appearance of a 
river, in which little more than room is left, at any pointy 
to turn the boat. The history of Champlain involves 
many interesting events associated with the French and 
Revolutionary wars. During, those periods several for- 
tifications w^ere constructed, which have since under- 
gone some repairs, but are now in a state of decay. 
The ruins of the ancient fortresses at Ticonderoga and 
Orown Point are still visible. 

Isle aux Noix, 14 miles from St. Johns. This is a 
?5trong military and njqival post possessed by the Eng^ 



PLATTSBl'RGH. 323 

Vlsh. The works are generally in good preservation ; 
and are occupied by a small military corps. Tn the ex- 
pedition against Canada in 1775, the troops under Gen- 
erals Schuyler and Montgomery went down the lake 
in rafts and landed at this island, from whence tliey 
proceeded to St. Johns. The other detachment, under 
Gen. Arnold, marched by land through the present state 
of Maine, (then a wilderness) to Gluebec. 

Rouse's Point, at the outlet of Lake Champlain, 
and 10 miles from the Isle aux Noix, contains strong 
stone fortifications, erected by the United States, but 
which by the decision of the commissioners appointed 
to settle the boundary line between the American and 
British governments, fell within the territories of the 
latter. 

The Village of Plattscurgh, 27 miles farther, is 
handsomely located at the mouth of the Saranac river, 
on the west side of Lake Champlain. It contains about 
350 dwellings, besides the court house and prison for 
the county. The number of inhabitants is about 2500. 
This place is rendered celebrated by the brilliant victory 
of M'Donough and Macomb, over the British land and 
naval forces under Sir George Provost and Commo- 
dore Downie. The naval engagement took place in 
front of the village, M'hich overlooks the extensive Bay 
of Plattsbnrgh for several miles. Here the American 
Commodore waited at anchor the arrival of the British 
fleet, which appeared passing Cumberland Head, about 
S in the morning of the 11th September, 1814. The 
first gun from the fleet was the signal for commencing 
the attack on land. Sir George Prevost, with about 
cc2 



32-i PLATT5BURGH. 

14,000 men, furiously assaulted the defences of the 
town, whilst the battle raged with increasing ardor be- 
tween the fleets, then contending in full view of the re- 
spective armies. General Macomb, with his gallant 
little army, consisting of about 3,000 men, mostly un- 
disciplined, foiled the repeated assaults of the enemy, 
until the capture of the British fleet, after an action of 
two hours, obliged him to retire, with the loss of 2,500 
men, together with considerable baggage and ammuni- 
tion. The American force on the lake consisted of 86 
guns, and S20 men ; and was opposed to a force of 95 
guns, and 1,050 men. Thus ended the affair at Platts- 
burgh, no less honorable to American valor than dero- 
gatory to the British arms. Commodore Downie was 
killed in the engagement. He was represented as a 
brave and skilful officer j but was opposed to the meth- 
od of attack on the American flotilla. Both fleets are 
now dismantled, and moored at Whitehall. 

A monument erected to the memory of Commodore 
Downie, in the cliurch-yard at Plattsburgh, contains 
the following inscription : 

" Sacred to the memory of George Downie, Esq. 
a Post-Captain in the Royal British Navy, who glori- 
ously fell on board his B. M. S. the Confiance, while 
leading: the vessels under his command to the attack of 
the American flotilla at anchor in Cumberland Bay, off* 
Plattsburgh, on the 11th September, 1814. To mark 
the spot where the remains of a gallant officer and sin- 
cere friend were honorably interred, tliis stone has been 
erected by his affectionate sister-in-law Mary Downie." 

The remains of a number of officers of both armies, 
who fell in the engagement, repose near the Commo- 



PLATTSBURGH. 325 

ciore, with no monument to inform the stranger, and 
with no record but tradition to denote the spot of their 
interment. East of Qownie are five graves, occurring 
in the following order: Commencing south — Captain 
Copeland, an American officer — Lieut. Stansbury, of 
the American navy — Lieut. Runk, of the American ar- 
my — Lieut. Gamble, of the American navy — and a 
British Sergeant. On the north side of Downie are the 
remains of the British Lt. Col. Welhngton — on the 
south, two British Lieutenants — on the west Captain 
Purchase and four other officers, three of whom were 
British. 

The traveller will find many objects of interest at 
Plattsburgh, which will warrant his continuance there 
for one or two days. A short distance from the village 
are the cantonement and breast works occupied by 
Gen. Macomb and his troops during the last war. A 
mile north is shown the house possessed by Gen. Pre- 
vost as his head-quarters during the siege in 1814; be- 
tween which and the village, the marks of cannon-shot 
on trees and other objects, are still visible. Farther 
onward, about 5 miles, on a hill overlooking the village 
of Beekmantown, is shown the spot where a sanguina- 
ry engagement took place between the American and 
British troops, which i-esulted in the death of the British 
Col. Welhngton, and several men of both armies. Col. 
W. was killed in the centre of the road, about equi- 
distant from the summit and foot of the hill. 

JSP DonougK' s Farm, granted by the legislature of 
Vermont, lies on Cumberland Head, nearly east of 
Plattsburgh ; a ride to which, around the bay, in the 
warm season, is refreshing and delightful. 



326 ADGATE's ti-ALLS — HICH BRlDGfi. 

Port Kent, 15 ip.iles from Plattsburgh, is a spot 
selected on the lake shore for a new town or village, 
17 miles southerly of Plattsburgl^by land, and 15 miles 
by water. Tliere are a few buildings, and a wharf 
erected, at which passengers are landed from the steam 
boat. From this place may be seen, on the north, the 
Isle La Mott, 26 miles distant, Grand Island, the Two 
Sisters, Point La Roche, Cumberland Head, and Bel- 
core and Macomb's Islands ; on the east. Stave, Pro- 
vidence and Hog Islands, Colchester Point, and the 
Green Mountains of Vermont ; on the south, the vil- 
lage of Burlington, about 11 miles distant, with the 
high peak called the Camel's Rump ; the whole forming 
a most delightful and pleasant landscape not excelled 
at any other point of the lake passage. Three miles 
west from Port Kent, are the celebrated 

Adgate's Falls. They are situated on the river 
A'Sable, and take their name from a person residing 
there, who is the proprietor of some valuable mils in 
the vicinity. The water pours over a precipice about 
80 feet in height, into a narrow channel of the river, 
the banks of which consist of rock, rising perpendicu- 
larly to the height of from 60 to 100 feet. At what is 
called the 

High Bridge, about half a mile below the falls, the 
channel is narrowed to 27 feet. The height of the rocks 
here, which are perpendicular, is 93 feet, and the water 
35 feet deep. Over this chasm a bridge was once erect- 
ed, by throwing timbers across ; but it is now princi- 
pally in decay. The sensations produced on looking 
into this gulf are terrific, and the stoutest heart invol- 



BURLINGTON — SPLIT ROCK. 327 

untarily shrinks from the contemplation. Tliere is an 
indifferent road from tlie falls to the High Bridge, but 
with this exception the spot is yet a wilderness. 

About 4 miles in a westerly direction from this, is 
the thriving village of Keeseville, which contains 
several manufactories, a bank, two newspaper estab- 
lishments, and several handsome residences. It is a 
place of much enterprize, and will soon become a large 
town. 

Burlington, is situated on the east side of Lake 
Champlain, about 24 miles south-east of Plattsburgh. 
This is one of those beautiful villages which so often 
attract the notice of a stranger in the New-England 
states. The ground rises wdtJi a moderate ascent from 
the lake and presents a slope covered with handsome 
houses and trees. On the highest part of the eminence, 
which is 330 feet above the level of the lake, stands the 
University of Vermont. This summit commands a 
noble view of the lake, and the adjacent country, for 
many miles. There are here about 300 houses and 
stores, two banks, a court-house, jail, and 3 churches.* 
About 12 miles from Burlington, in the town of Wills- 
borough, (N. Y.) is what is called the 

Split Rock. This curiosity is a part of a rocky 
promontory projecting into the lake, on the west side, 
about 150 feet, and elevated above the level of the wa- 
ter about 12 feet. The part broken off contains about 



* Travellers designing to visit Boston, frequently 
take a stage at this place, on a route which is noticed in 
a subsequent part of this work. 



238 CROWN POINT TICONDEROGA. 

half an acre, covered with trees, and is separated from j 

the main rock about 20 feet. The opposite sides ex- ; 

actly fit each other — the prominences in the one corres- j 
ponding with the cavities in the other. Through this 

fissure a line has been let down to the depth of 500 feet, j 

without findinsj bottom. I 

Crown Point, is situated 36 miles from Burlington, j 
on the west side of Lake Champlain. It is formed by I 
an extensive deep bay on the west, skirted by a steep j 
mountain, and on the north and east by the body of j 
the lake. The elevated plain w^as first occupied by the i 
French, in 1731, as a military position, and abandoned 
by them in 1759, w^hen General Amherst took posses- 
sion of it, and built Fort Frederick. The ruins of this 
fort may still be traced, being situated directly opposite 
to Chimney Point on the south side of the bay. After 
the peace of 1763, it was occupied by a subaltern and a 
mere safe-guard, until it was burnt by accident some- 
time previous to the American Revolution. In 1^75 it 
fell into the hands of the Americans, and was after- 
wards evacuated by them, on the advance of Burgoyne, 
in 1776. A few years since a number of British guineas 
were found here, from the accidental crumbling of the 
earth from tlie banks, where they had been deposited. 

Ticonderoga, which has already been noticed, {see 
p. 190,) is situated 15 miles south of Crown Point, and 
24 miles north of Whitehall. 

One mile from Ticonderoga, is Mount Indepen- 
dence, on the east side of the lake; near the foot of 
which, the remains of a small battery are still to be 



WHITEHALL CHAM1>LA1N CANAL. 239 

seen. What was called the Horse-Shoe battery was 
on an elevation about a quarter of a mile in the rear. 

Nine miles farther, the lake is contracted into four 
narrow channels, bounded on the west and east by lofty 
mountains. 

South and East Bays are soon reached, each of 
about five miles in extent. The former was taken by 
Gen. Dieskau and his army, in their route towards 
Fort Edward in 1755. From the latter bay to Wliite- 
hall, the passage is extremely narrow and of a serpen- 
tine course, and cannot be pursued in safety during a 
dark night. 

Whitehall, terminates the steam-boat navigation 
of Lake Champlain. It is an incorporated village sit- 
uated on the west bank of Wood Creek at its entrance 
into the lake, 73 miles north of Albany, and contains 
about 200 dwellings and stores and 1,500 inhabitants. 
The situation of this place is low and unpleasant ; and 
it derives its principal consequence from the naviga- 
tion of the lake, which is passable for sloops of 80 tons 
burthen, and from the northern canal, which here enters 
the lake. Burgoyne occupied this place for a short 
time, preparatory to his march to Saratoga ; and on the 
heights, over the harbor, are the remains of a battery 
and block house.* 

THE CHAMPLAIN CANAL, 

Commencing at Whitehall, proceeds south five and a 
half miles, when it enters Wood Creek, a narrow sluggish 



* A route from this place to Boston is noticed in a 
subsequent part of this work. 



330 FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY. 

stream, averaging 15 feet in depth. This ca-eek is con- 
nected with the canal, and is rendered navigable for 
boats, for about 6^ miles, to Fort Ann village. From 
thence the canal proceeds through Fort Ann, Kings- 
bury, and Fort Edward, to Fort Miller Falls, below 
which the canal enters the river, which is made naviga- 
ble 3 miles to Saratoga Falls, where the canal is taken 
out of the river on the west^ide, and proceeds through 
Saratoga, Stillwater and Halfmoon, to Waterford, where 
it enters the Hudson, and by a branch canal enters the 
Mohawk, which it crosses by a dam, and after passing 
I of a mile joins the Erie canal in the town of Water- 
vleit. The whole length of the Qhamplain canal is 63 
miles. The cost to the state, exclusive of the feeder 
from Glen's Falls, was 5^875,000. 

The intervening distances on the canal between 
Whitehall and Albany are as follows : 

Miles. 

Stillwater V 3 

Mechanics Ville, 3 

Waterford, 8 

Waten-leit, 2' 

Gibbon's Ville,.., 2 

Albany, 6 



Miles. 

Fort Ann, 12 

Sandy Hill, 8 

Fort Edward, 2 

Fort Miller Falls, 8 

Saratoga Falls,. .'.... 3 

Schuylerville, 2 

Bemus' Heights, 12 



FROM WHITEHALL TO ALBANY, 

BY STAGE AND RAIL ROAD. 

Stages leave Whitehall every morning on the arrival 
of the Champlain steam-boats, and reach Saratoga 
Springs in time to dine ; from whence the rail road is 
taken for Albany, immediately after dinner. The whole 



SANDT HILL. 331 

distance is 7i,^ miles — fare {§3,50 — and the intermedi- 
ate distances as follows : 

Miles. Miles. 



By Rail Road. 

Ballston Spa, G^ 

Ballston Lake, 5 

Schenectady, 10 

Buel's Farm, 12 

Albany, 3 



By Stage. 
From Whitehall to 

Fort Ann, 11 

Sandy Hill, 10 

Fort Ville, 7 

Wilton, 4 

Saratoga Springs, .... 7 

The route is in a southern direction near the line of 
the canal, until reaching Fort Ann ; half a mile north 
of which place, at an elbow made by Wood Creek, 
leaving barely room between the creek and a precipi- 
tous liill for the road, a severe engagement took place 
in 1777, between a detachment of Burgoyne's troops 
and a party of Americans, under the command of Col. 
Sterry, who were on their retreat from Ticonderoga. 
The iVmericans were on the plain south of the hill, 
which served as a cover to the British. Their fire on 
Sterry's forces below was destructive, and compelled 
him to abandon his position. 

The village of Fort Anne, 11 miles from Whitehall, 
contains 70 or 80 houses, and is located on the site of 
the old Fort erected during the French war. It w^as at 
the north part of the village on the bank of the creek. 

Burgoyne's road, commencing about 2 miles south of 
the village, and pursuing nearly the course of the pres- 
ent road, is still visible. It was a causeway, formed 
by logs laid transversely, a labor which became neces- 
sary in conveying his cannon and baggage waggons to 
Saratoga. 

Sandy Hill, 10 miles farther. {See p. 181.) 

DD 



332 ROUTES TO BOSTON. 

Fort Ville, a small village in the town of Moreau, 
is 7 miles farther. About half a mile west of the vil- 
lage, there is a large Spring, which ebbs and flows reg- 
ularly with the tide. It rises through a body of beauti- 
ful fine sand, containing yellow particles of a metalic 
substance, and has been found to answer every purpose 
of the purest emery. It partakes, also, so much of the 
character of quick sand, that every weiglity substance 
placed in the spring, even the longest sticks of timber, 
are soon drawn beneath the surface. Falling, or even 
stepping into the fountain, therefore, is considered ex- 
tremely dangerous. At low water, the surface is near- 
ly dry ; but at high tide, the water is seen boiling up at 
several points, covering an area of near a quarter of an 
acre. 

About a mile south of Fort Ville, the stage passes 
over an eminence, which affords a beautiful view of the 
Green Mountains of Vermont at the east and the inter- 
mediate country ; throe miles from which is Wil- 
ton church ; from whence to Saratoga Springs is 
7 miles. [For a description of the latter place, together 
loith the route bxj rail road to Jilhany, see pages 150 to 175.] 

ROUTES TO BOSTON. 

These are so various, that the traveller may always 
be governed by his own taste and judgment in a selec= 
tion. The route from Albany has been chosen by ma- 
ny on account of enjoying in the excursion a visit to the ' 
Lebanon Springs ; while others have preferred a course 
which should embrace the rich mountain scenery of 
Vermont and New-Hampshire ; commencing their ex- 
cursions either at Saratoga Springs, Whitehall or Bur- 



NEW-LEEANOK. 



333 



lington. We therefore- subjoin a description of the dif- 
ferent routes. 

FROM ALBANY TO BOSTON. 

From Albany, stages leave daily for Boston, which 
is distant 164 miles, and the route is performed in two 
days. Fare $8,75. One line passes through Benning- 
ton and Brattleborough, Vt., but the most usual route 
is through New-Lebanon, Fittsfield, Northampton, 
Brookfield, Worcester and Watertown. 

The several stages and distances on the last men- 
tioned route are as follows : 



Miles. 

Schodack, 5 

Nassau, 12 

New-Lebanon, 8 

Fittsfield, 9 

Dalston, 6 

Peru, 7 

Worthington, 8 

Chesterfield, 9 

Northampton, 13 

Hadley, 2 



Miles. 

Belchertown, 10 

Ware, 9 

Brookfield, 8 

Spencer, 7 

Leicester, 5 

Worcester, 6 

Framingham, 20 

Weston,. . * 5 

Watertown, 5 

Boston, 10 



Albany, {Seep. 137.) 

New-Lebanon is a pleasant village in the town of 
Canaan, N. Y. bordering on Fittsfield, Mass. and is 25 
miles from Albany. It contains a mineral spring of 
considerable importance, Vvhich is much frequented in 
the summer months by invalids. It is principally used 
for the purpose of bathing ; but is much inferior to the 
Saratoga waters either as a medicine or beverage. 
The fountain issues from the side of a high hill, in great 
abundance, discharging at the rate of 18 barrels per 



334 PITTSFIELD. 

minute ; and is used as a feeder for several mills. The 
water is remarkably pure and soft, and is perfectly 
tasteless and inodorous. Gas, in considerable quanti- 
ties, escapes from the pebbles and sand, and keeps the 
water in constant motion. It contains small quanti- 
ties of muriate- of lime, muriate of soda, sulphate of 
lime, and carbonate of lime ; and its temperature is 
73 degrees of Farenheit. 

Convenient bathing houses are kept in readiness at 
all times, for the accommodation of strangers ; and 
there are a number of boarding establishments which, 
at different rates, afford proportionate fare. Among 
these, the Navarino Hotel, is a spacious and well fur- 
nished establishment, calculated to accommodate from 
100 to 150 guests. 

Near the spring is what is called the Shakers' Vil- 
lage, containing a number of neat plain buildings, gen- 
erally painted yellow. The property of this society is 
held in common ; and they are said to possess nearly 
3000 acres of fertile land. Besides agricultural pur- 
suits, they carry on several branches of manufactures, 
which are distinguished by excellence of workmanship. 
The singular regulations and ceremonies of these peo- 
ple, constitute an object of attention to tourists. Nine 
miles from New-Lebanon is the village of 

PiTTSFiELD, rendered elegant from its local situation, 
and from the neatness of its buildings. The village 
contains from 1 50 to 200 houses, a bank, a medical col- 
lege containing one of the best anatomical museums in 
the U. States, an academy, 2 printing offices and seve- 
ral stores. Here are annually held the Cattle Show and 
Fair of the celebrated Berkshire Agricultural Society, 



PiTTSFiEin. 335 

whicli has been incorporated by art of the legislature ; 
and which has dope more towards improving the con- 
dition of agriculture than any other institution of the 
kind in the Union. The show and fair, which occupy 
two days, never fail to impart an unusual degree of in- 
terest, and are always attended by immense crowds of 
citizens. =♦ 



* About 24 miles north of Pittsfic!.^, in the town of 
Adams, there is a J^atnral Bridge, but little inferior to 
the celebrated natural bridge in Virginia. The excava- 
tion or gutter is in solid lime rock, 40 rods in lencrth, 
varying from 50 to 60 feet in height, through which 
nms Hudson's Brook or the north branch of the Hoo- 
sic, occupying from 13 to 14 feet, which is the uninter- 
rupted width of the cup. Over this the bridge is 
thrown, being 62 feet from the bed of the brook, 15 
feet long, 10 wide, arched beneath, and what renders it 
a matter of greater curiosity, the arch is perfectlv 
smooth, and beautifully white. On the west side of 
the arch is a circular cut room, large enough to contain 
ten persons. The whole place bears the marks of be- 
ing wrought by the irritation of the waters in a most 
workmanlike manner. For ages this cause must have 
operated in producing the result. In the neighbor- 
hood of the bridge the rocks are somewhat open ; up- 
on examining which, they are found leading to large 
caverns, worked out by the constant friction of water. 
The roar of water and the sublimity of the scenery, 
produce an indescribable sensation upon the visitor, 
which induces him to retreat, being warned that he 
stands on slippery places. There are many traditions 
respecting the precipice — one is, that a war party of 
Indians, on an expedition to Brookfield, in one of the 
early Indian wars, was dashed to pieces on the rocks 
below. Some fifteen or twenty years ago, a Mr. 
Briggs, then a student in William's College, visited the 

dd2 



336 KORTHAMPTON. 

Northampton is 43 miles from Pittsfield, and is one 
of the finest towns in New-Englartd. It is situated a 
mile and a half west of Connecticut river, and was set- 
tled as early as the year 1654. It contains two acade- 
mies, several churches, a bank, 2 printing offices, a court 
house, gaol, and 350 dwellings, some of which are very 
elegant. The Congregational church is considered 
one of the most beautiful structures of the kind in the 
state. There are several manufactories here ; and the 
place exhibits an unusual degree of cnterprize and 
wealth. The Farmington and Hampshire canal com- 
mences at this place, and extends to New-Haven, Conn. 
87 miles. Over the Connecticut river, there is a sub- 
stantial bridge, 1080 feet long, resting on six stone piers. 



place unaccompanied. Curiosity tempted him to ex- 
plore more fully the precipice, and, by the assistance 
of poles, he descended to the base of it. Here his eyes 
feasted upon the wonders of nature. His curiosity be- 
ing gratified, he began to think of returning. After re- 
peated trials he gave it up, and inscribed on the rock 
his farewell to his friends and the world. His voice 
could not reach the habitation of man, and the rocks 
were, to all appearance, to be his grave. He, however, 
began to repeat the notching in the side, which was 
marble, and after a painful labor or several hours, he ef- 
fected his escape. But the exertion proved too much ; 
it undermined his health and in a few months he was 
conveyed to his grave. This place was discovered by 
a Mr. Hudson, while travelling the wilderness, a few 
years before the French war. He came to it in the 
night, where he remained, and heard the roaring of the 
mighty torrent beneath him. The next morning he 
perceived that had he advanced a few steps more he 
would have been plunged into eternity. From this 
circumstance, the brook and the falls bear his name. 



LEAD MINE. 337 

Mount Holtoke, in the vicinity of Northampton, is 
mucli frequented by tourists. It is situated on the east 
side of the river opposite to Northampton. The height 
of this mountain above the level of the river is 1070 
feet. In consequence of the resort to this place, which 
has been not less than from two to five thousand annu- 
ally, two buildings have been erected on its summit 
for the purpose of accommodating visitors Mith re- 
freshments. The beautiful and extensive prospect af- 
forded from the top of the mountain, will amply com- 
pensate the labor and difficulty of the ascent. The 
view embraces eminences 160 miles apart, with sever- 
al beautiful villages and a rich and fertile country in- 
tervening, and is said to be unrivalled in the eastern 
states. 

The Lead Mine at Southampton, 8 miles south 
west of Northampton, is an object of much interest, 
and should be visited, if practicable, in an excursion to 
the eastern states. The vein is 6 or 8 feet in diameter, 
and declines 10 or 15 degrees from a perpendicular. It 
has been explored to the depth of 40 or 50 feet and 30 
or 40 rods in length ; and the ore is found in masses 
from a quarter of an -inch to a foot in diameter. The 
Journal of Science remarks, that "at the depth above 
mentioned, the water became so abundant that it was 
thought advisable to abandon a perpendicular explora- 
tion, and to descend to the foot of the hill on the east, 
nearly 80 rods from the vein, and attempt a horizontal 
drift, or adit ; and ever since its commencement ten or 
twelve years ago, the working of the vein has ceased. 
This drift is now carried into the hill, on an exact level, 
nearly 60 rods, and the workmen told me, that not less 



338 LEAD MINE. 

than $20,000 had been expended upon it. The rooks 
that have been penetrated, reckoning from the mouth 1 
of the drift inwards, are geest, the red and gray slates j 
of the coal formation, with thin beds of coal and mica I 
slate, and granite alternating. Probably the funda- i 
mental deposite of granite is now uncovered ; and the ! 
principal vein of galena cannot be far distant Several i 
small branch veins of crystalized quartz and galena ' 
have been crossed, and several specimens of these col- i 
lected by Dr. Hunt, were very rich and beautiful ; the i 
crystals of pure galena sometimes exhibit, on their fa- I 
ces, insulated crystals of honey colored carbonate of i 
lime. The principal vein will be found not less, I I 
should judge, than 150 feet below the surface; and j 
when that time comes, it is confidently expected, not 
only that the proprietors will be rewarded for the great ! 
expense they have incurred, but also, that many a rich i 
specimen will be found to ornament the mineral cabi- : 
nets of our country, and to vie in beauty with the lead { 
ores of Europe. ' 

The mouth of the drift is 4 or 5 feet wide, and about 
3 feet above the surface of the water. The water is 
deep enough the whole length of it, to admit the pas- 
sage of a loaded boat. The person wishing to explore 
this internal canal, must fire a gun at the entrance, or 
beat heavily with a sledge on the timbers that support 
the soil ; in 10 or 15 minutes, he will perceive a gentle , 
undulation of the water, and soon after, a boat advan- 
cing vnth lighted lamps and a rower ; having seated 
himself on the bottom of this boat, and provided him- 
self M'ith an additional garment, he is prepared for his , 
subterranean expedition. As he enters the passnge, i 



HAULEY. 331^ 

he will for a moment experience, or imagine he experi- 
ences, a httle difficulty of breathing. But he will soon 
become reconciled to his condition ; and after passing 
about 100 feet in the excavation, for which distance the 
soil is supported by timbers, he will find occasionally 
more room, so that he can stand erect. If he looks 
back, after having advanced several hundred feet, the 
hght at the entrance will appear diminished to the size 
of a candle ; and before he reaches the extremity, it be- 
comes invisible. About half way from the entrance to 
the end of the diift, he will pass a shaft, down which 
a small brook is turned, for the purpose of aiding the 
ventilator. When he reaches the end of the drift, he 
finds himself to have penetrated nearly 60 rods, chiefly 
into solid rock. 

The miners do not quit the drift when they blast, but 
retire behind a breast work thrown up for the purpose. 
One man has been an inmate of that dark recess eight 
or ten years, without suffering in his health. 

Every mineralogist passing that way, will of course 
visit this drift. Intelligent gentlemen without profes- 
sional views, and even ladies, not unfrequently enter 
this cavity." 

Hadley, 2 miles from Northampton, is one of the 
oldest towns in the state. It was the head quarters of 
the army employed for the defence of the towns on 
the Connecticut river, in the war with Philip in 1675- 
6 ; and was, for a long time, the place of residence of 
the two regicides or judges, Whalley and Goffe, in the 
time of Charles the second. On the town being at- 
tacked by the Indians during this war, a stranger, ven- 
erable in appearance, and differing in his apparel from 



340 HADLET. 

the rest of the inhabitants, suddenly presented himself 
at the head of the colonial troops, and encouraged 
them by his advice and example to perseverance in de- 
fending the place. To his experience in military tac- 
tics and courage, in a great measure, was a defeat of 
the Indians attributable. When they retreated, the 
stranger disappeared ; and in those times of supersti- 
tion, it was verily believed by many that he was the 
guardian angel of the place. But he was no other than 
Col. GofFe, who seeing the village in danger, left his 
concealment to unite with its inhabitants in a vigorous 
defence. 

In connection with the history of this place, the fol- 
lowing biographical sketch of Goffe, Whalley and Dix- 
wcll may not prove uninteresting : 

On the restoration of the English monarch, Charles 
2d, in 1660, several of the judges who sat on the trial 
of Charles 1st, were seized, condemned and executed. 
Others, foreseeing the result, escaped. Whalley and 
Goffe, two of the number, came to Boston ; where, for 
a time, they received the hospitality due to their rank. 
But on learning that several of the regicides had been 
executed, and that Whalley and Goffe had not been in- 
cluded in the act of pardon, the people who had har- 
bored them began to be alarmed ; and the two judges 
abruptly departed for Connecticut. Subsequently, the 
King's proclamation was received, requiring their ap-. 
prehension. They, however, eluded the vigilance of 
their pursuers, by secreting themselves in a cave and 
other secret places at New-Haven, where they contin- 
ued, between three and four years, until their retreat 
was disrovpred by the Indians. Finding that thev 



iilJ 



BELCHERTOWN. 341 

could no longer remain at New-Haven in safety, and 
that a vigilant search for them was still continued, 
tliey resolved to remove into a more secluded part of 
the country. A friend had succeeded in inducing the 
Rev. Mr. Russell, of Hadley, to receive them ; and af- 
ter a toilsome journey by night, they reached his house 
in October, 1664. In a chamber of this house, (which 
was situate on the east side, and near the centre of the 
present main street,) having a secret passage to the 
cellar, they remained undiscovered for fifteen or sixteen 
years. During this period, Goffe held a correspon- 
dence with his wife in England, under an assumed 
name ; and in a letter of April, 1679, it is stated that 
Whalley had died some time previous, at Mr. Russel's. 
His bones were discovered not many years since in a 
sort of tomb adjoining the cellar wall of Mr. Russell's 
house. 

Not long after Goffe and Whalley arrived at Hadley, 
they were joined by Col. John Dixwell, another of the 
judges. After remaining some time, he went to New- 
Haven, assumed the name of Davids, was married, had 
several children, and his real name was not known un- 
til his death in 1689. He was buried in the church- 
yard at that place ; where a coarse stone still marks 
the spot of his interment, with this inscription : "J. D. 
Esq. deceased, March 18, in the 82d year of his age — 
J63S-9." 

After the death of Whalley, Goffe travelled to the 
south, and no certain information relative to his fate has 
ever been obtained. 

From Hadley to Belchertown, a pleasant village, is 
10 miles and from thence to 



542 BUOOKFIELD. 

Ware Factory Village, is 9 miles farther. This 
place, located on the Ware River, has attained to an 
astonishing growth within a short time. There are few 
places in the country exhibiting so barren and rugged a 
soil as the scite and lands adjacent to this flourishing 
little city in miniature. As you approach from the west 
or east, it bursts upon the view with its long range of 
manufauctories, its neat white houses, and glittering 
spires, producing the same sensation in the bosom, as 
the prospect of a beautiful garden in the midst of a de- 
sert. It contains several public buildings which would 
be an ornament to our most flourishing inland towns of 
more ancient date. 

Brookfield, 8 miles from Ware, is a handsome town, 
though very little improved by any recent additions of 
buildings. This place was burnt by the Indians in 
1675. On the first alarm the inhabitants, in all about 
70, repaired to a house slightly fortified externally with 
logs, and internally lined with feather beds, to check 
the force of musketry. This spot was soon surround- 
ed by the enemy, and a constant fire poured upon it in 
all directions. But the well directed shots of the be- 
sieged kept the Indians at a considerable distance. 
Various devices were used by the latter for burning the 
building ; but their plans were thwarted by the whites, 
aided by a plentiful shower of rain. The attack con- 
tinued for three days ; when the appearance of a body 
of troops from Lancaster induced the Indians to seek 
their own safety in a precipitate retreat. All the build- 
ings in the village except the one fortified, were de- 
stroyed. Only one of the inhabitants, however, was 
killed ; while the loss of the Indians was 80. 



BOSTON AND WORCESTER RAIL ROAD. 343 

Leicester, 12 miles. The village contains an acad- 
emy, 3 churches and about 80 dwellings. The prin- 
cipal employment of the inhabitants is the manufacture 
of woollen cards ; of which a very large amount is annu- 
ally made. 

Worcester, (6 inilcs,) is one of the oldest and most 
respectable towns in the state. It contains from three 
to four hundred houses, generally well built. Here aro 
also a bank, four ♦printing offices, a court-house and a 
jail. A newspaper which was commenced by Isaiah 
Thomas some time previous to the revolutionary war, is 
still published here, and is the oldest paper in the Un- 
ion. Mr. Thomas was the author of an elaborate histo» 
ry of the art of printing, and continued to reside here 
until his decease, a short time since. He erected in the 
village, at a very considerable expense, a handsome bull-* 
.ding, for the reception of the library and cabinet of the 
American Antiquarian Societ}', of which he was presi- 
dent. The library consists of about 6000 volumes, ma-, 
ny of them of great antiquity, and the cabinet is also 
very valuable. 

' iThe Blackstone Canal commences at this place, 
and extends to Providence, R. I. Length 45 milesn — 

I expense rising of $500,000. 
'" The Boston and Worcester Rail Road was comi 
" menced in August, 1832, and when completed, will 
constitute the usually travelled route between the two 
places. The hne, as surveyed, passes from Worscester 
- through Grafton, Westborough, Southborough, Hop^ 
r kinton, Framingham, Katick, Needham, Newton, and 



|. 



344 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BOSTON, 



Brighton to Boston — distance 43^ miles. Worcester is ' 
456 feet higher than Boston ; but the greatest descent 
in any one place is estimated at only 30 feet to the mile* 
and the average descent at lOJ feei. The estimated 
cost is a little less than $1,000,000 ; and the amount of 
passengers which will pass over the road annually, has 
been computed at 50,000. 

From Worcester to Boston, over the stage route, the 
distance is 40 miles, through a rich country, variegated 
with villages, which increase in size and importance as 
the tourist advances towards the metropolis of the^stat?. 

Boston, (Seep. 367.) 



FROM SARATOGA SPRINGS TO BOSTON. 

161 miles, rntervening distance^ a$ follows : 



Miles, 

Schuyler-Ville, ..., 12 

Union village, .. .". $ 

Cambridge, S 

Arlington, 12 

Manchester, 12 

Landsgrove, 15 

Chester, ^. 15 

Bellows FalV-.. 14 

Walpole Village,." 4 

Walpole^. . .-.,, .'.:, 4 

Keene,. . . .-. .■ .-. ; ,"; 14 

Marlborough, . ... _^ 



Miles. 

Jeffrey, 5 

New Ipswich, 10 

Townsend, 12 

Pepperel, ....... .^^ . , 6 . 

Groton, ....';»«. , .:^> 3 

Littleton, /. 8 

Acton, 3^' 

Concord, ....... . ;. . 7- 

Lexington, 7 ~ 

Cambridge, ........... 7 • 

Boston,. . . .;^. ...;,•. 3' » 



.A_stage leaves Saratoga Springs every morning^ 
(Sundays excepted) at 5 o'clock, reaching Manchester 
th,e first day, Keene the second, and Boston the thirdj" 
to dine. Fare $7,50. 

ScHUTLER-ViLLE, 12 miles. (See/). 179.) Passing^ 
across the vale where the surrender of Burgoyne took 






MANCHESTER- — CHESTER. 343 

place to the river, (on the bank ol' which in a tield ad- 
joining the road on the north, are seen the remains of 
ah intrenchment,) the stage crosses it-in a horse-boat. 

Union Village, 5 miks. The Battenkill river pass- 
es through the village, on the banks qf which are sev- 
eral mills and factories. There are about 150 houses 
it) the place ; and the number is constantly augment- 

Cambridge and Arlington are good agricultural 
townships. In the latter place, the route, for a consid- 
erable distance is on the bank of the Battenkill, near 
which are several valuable and extensive quarries of 
white marble. 

Manchester, 12 miles from Arlington, is a neat vil- 
lage, located near the foot of the Green .Mountains, 
which are seen strctcliing to the north and south as far 
as the eye can extend. Leaving the village, the stage 
_60on commences ascending the great natural barrier 
wluch separates the eastern and western sections of 
Vermont. No exertions have been spared to improve 
the road ;_ and it may bq -^considered by far the, best of 
any which crosses the mouittain. The ascent, which ia 
not precipitous, continues, with occasional descents, 
for 10 or 12 miles before the, summit is reached. Dur- 
ing the first six miles, a most extensive and variegated 
prospect at the west is enjoyed ; aiKi after attaining the 
greatest elevation, this, is suddenly exchanged for a 
prospect nearly co-extensive at the east. 

Chester, 30 miles from Manchester, is a pleasant 
village, situated on a handsome plain, and contains two 
churches, an excellent academy, and about 60 dwel- 
lings and stores. 



S46 BELLrOWS FALLS. 

Bellows Falls, 14 miles, lies on the west,em bank 
of the Connecticut river. The village is flourishing, 
contains some very pleasant houses, a number of man- 
ufactiirino- establishments, and a beautiful church, which 
stands on an eminence, and i^ seen for some miles dis- 
tant. 

A canal, having 9 locks, and affording water for a 
number of mills, has been constructed around the falls. 
It is about half a mile in length. The whole descent 
of the river for this distance is 50 feet, and assumes 
the appearance of rapids rather than a cataract. Over 
the greatest descent, where the water is compressed 
by ledges of rocks to a very narrow space, a hand- 
some toll bridge is erected, 50 feet in height, from 
which the water is seen rushing through the pass with 
great rapidity, and dashing upon the rocks in the wild- 
est disorder — presenting a scene truly sublime and in- 
teresting. 

A short distance below the falls are two rocks con- 
taining specimens of Indian workmanship. On one of 
the rocks are the indistinct traces of a number of hu- 
man faces, represented by marks in the stone, and 
probably intended as a memorial of their deceased 
friends or chieftains. That this place was Once the 
haunt of our savage predecessors, is evident from the 
arrow points and bits of their earthen pots and frag- 
ments of other utensiLs which may be found in a short 
walk over the adjacent fields,* 



* From Bellows Falls, stages can be taken every day 
for Concord, N. H. and for Hartford, Conn, On the 
latter route, the course is generally near the bank of 



1VALP0LE CONCORD. ^ 347 

On the New-Hampshire side is a chain of lofty 
mountains, which leave but a narrow passage between 
their base and the river. Around one of these impend- 
ing barriers the road winds its course to the pleasant 
village of 

Walpole, which contains about 100 houses, includ- 
ing some very handsome mansions. This place was 
the scene of many savage incursions during the French 
war. It was once in the entire possession' of the Indi- 
ans, and retaken from them by Col. Bellows, who made 
the first settlement in this part of the country. The 
scenery in this vicinity is remarkably striking and ro- 
mantic. Ten miles farther is the flourishing village of 

Keene. This is one of the handsomest villages in 
New-England, and is situated a Tew miles east of the 
Connecticut river. It contains about 250 dwellings, a 
bank, a court house and gaol, 3 churches, and a pop- 
ulation of about 2500. For a distance of 40 miles from 
this place no village of importance intervenes, though 
many handsome dwellings and rich farms are discov- 
ered on the route. 

Grotok, 41 miles from Keene, is a pleasant village, 
containing about 100 houses and an academy; seven 
miles from which is the town of 

Concord, rendered memorable as the place M^here 
the first eiRcient opposition v.-as made to the British 
troops, in 1775. It is a large town, and contains many 



the Connecticut river, and through a mont delio^htful 
country, interspersed with several elegant villages and 
country seats. 

ee2 



549 LEXINGTON. 

handsome dwellings. Eight miles from which is the 
town of 

Lexington, containing a few plain houses ; but cel- 
ebrated in liistory as the spot where the first American 
blood was shed in the struggle for Independence. This 
occurred on the 19th of April, 1775. A quantity of mil- 
itary stores had been collected at Concord, which the 
British General Gage proposed to destory. Though se- 
cret in his operations, and though precaution had been 
taken the evening previous to scour the roads and se- 
cure such citizens as the British officers fell in with, yet 
the plan was discovered by Doctor Warren, of Boston, 
who sent out messengers to alaiTn the inhabitants and 
prepare them for resistance. On the arrival the next 
morning at Lexington of the British troops, 8 or 900 
strong, it was found that the militia of the town, to the 
number of 70, were in arms. Major Pitcairn, who led 
the British van, ordered the " rebels" to disperse. 
Some scattering guns were fired, which were followed 
by a general discharge, and continued till the militia 
disappeared. Eight men were killed and several woun- 
ded.* 

The detachment then proceeded to Concord, a part of 
which took possession of two bridges beyond the town, 
while the remainder destroyed the military stores. A 
number of militia, who had collected in the vicinity, 
but with orders not to give the first fire, attempted to 
pass one of the bridges in the character of travellers. 



* A handsome monument now marks the spot where 
this action was fought, beneath which are interred the 
remains of the Americana who were slain. 



CAMBRIDGE. 349 

They were fired on, and two men killed. The fire was 
returned and a skirmish ensued, which resulted in thtd 
discomfiture of the regulars, and a precipitate retreat. 
Skirmishing continued during the day, and though the 
British received reinforcements, they were harrassed in 
their retreat to Bunker's Hill, where they remained se- 
cure under the protection of their ships of war. 

The loss of the British, during this day, in killed, 
wounded and prisoners, was 273 ; while that of the 
provincialists did not exceed 90. 

The blow thus struck was the precursor of more im- 
portant events, and was soon followed by the battle of 
Breed's or (as it is generally denominated) Bunker's 
Hill ; which is noticed in subsequent pages. 

Cambridge, is situated 7 miles from Lexington. It 
is a large and handsome town, but derives its impor- 
tance from Harvard University, which is located here, 
and is one of the oldest and most celebrated literary in- 
stitutions in the United States. It takes its name from 
the Rev. John Harvard, who died in 1638, leaving to 
the institution a legacy of 779L 17s. 2d. sterling. The 
edifices belonging to the University are Harvard, Mas- 
sachusetts, Hollis, Stoughton, Holworthy and Univer- 
sity Halls, Holden Chapel, a new stone building re- 
cently erected, and 3 College houses, besides that for 
the President. These buildings are all situated in a 
spacious square, and are handsomely shaded with a 
variety of trees. There are annually educated here 
about 300 students. The amount of property belong- 
ing to the institution, it is said, falls little short of $600,- 
000. It contains an extensive pliilosophical aparatus, 
and a library of about 25,000 volumes, Cambridge 



350 FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON. 

contains 3 handsome villages, a court house, jail, state 
arsenal, 8 houses of public worship, and about 5000 in- 
habitants. 

. Two miles from Cambridge is the city of Boston. 
The two places are connected by a bridge 3846 feet 
long and 40 wide, with a causeway of 3344 feet. The 
cost of the whole was $76,700. [For a description vf 
Boston, see p. 367.] 

FROM WHITEHALL TO BOSTON— 178 miles. 
A stage leaves Whitehall daily, (Sunday's excepted) 
passing through the villages of Castleton and Rutland, 
connecting at Chester with the route from Saratoga 
Springs, and reaches Boston the third day. 

Fairhaven, 9 miles from Whitehall, contains seve- 
ral mills and mauufactoriesofiron, and about SO houses. 

Castleton, 5 miles farther, is a handsome village of 
about iOO houses, and contains the Rutland county 
academy and a medical college ; which are liberally 
patronized. It also contains a classical seminary, located 
on an eminence south of the village, and commanding 
an extensive view of a rich and beautiful country. It is 
160 feet in length and 40 in breadth, with projections 
in the centre and ends of 46 and 55 feet, and is 3 stories 
high, exclusive of a basement. To the building is at- 
tached a play- ground of about six acres, a part of which 
is to be devoted to a garden. The course of instruc- 
tion in this institution, which is still in its infancy, is de- 
signed to correspond with that of the most favored sem- 
inaries of learning in the country. 

About half a mile north of the village, at the junction 
of the Hubbardton with the main road, are slight re- 



BnTLAND?* 351 

mains of a fort and brcuirt work, which were occupied 
during the revolutionary war ; two miles north of which 
theHubbarton road passes over the ground where a se- 
vere action was fought between a detachment of Bur- 
goyne's army and a body of American troops. Tho 
latter composed the rear guard of the Americana 
which evacuated Ticonderoga in July, 1777, and were 
commanded by Col. Warner. They were about 1000 
strong ; and were overtaken by a force of nearly the 
same number under Gen. Frazer. A long, severe, and 
obstinate conflict ensued ; when the arrival of General 
Reidsell, with his division of Germans, compelled the 
Americans to give way in all directions. The British 
loss was stated by Gen. Burgoyne at 35 killed and I'M 
wounded ; and the American loss was estimated by 
Gen. St. Clair at 50 killed and wounded. 'It is gene- 
Itilly supposed that the loss of both armies was much 
greater. 

The Americans retreated to the S9uth, and took part 
in the Bennington battle on the 16th of August, and in 
the capture of Burgoyne at Saratoga in October fol- 
lowing. 

Pv,UTLAND, 10 miles from Castleton, is the capitol of 
Rutland county. It is situated 3 miles west of the 
""Green Movuitains, in view of Killington Peak, and for 
beauty of local situation is not surpassed by any village 
in the northern states.- It contains about 150 houses, 
three churches, a bank, a court house, and a gaol. 

Ten miles from Rutland, in the town of Shrewsbury, 
the road reaches the foot of the Green Mountains, 
which are crossed in travelling 12 miles farther. No 
part of the passage is precipitous ; though the road ia 



35*2 



FROM BURLINGTOM TO BOSTON. 



.less pleasant than that leading from Manchester. ( See 
p. 345.) 

Chester is 40 miles from Rutland; from whence 
the route to Boston is the same at that noticed at page 
346. 

FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, 
{through tViadsur, Vt.) 
From Burhngton, ,Vt. where the Ghanxplain steam- 
boats touch in the passage up And down tlie lake, sta- 
ges depart for Boston three times a vvieek, passing 
through Montpelier and Windsor, Vt. Claremont and- 
Amherst, N. H., Biilerica and iVIedford, Mass., and 
reach Boston on the third day. Distance 206 miles — 
Fare $8. The intei*veniug distances are as follows : ' 

Jellies. 



Miles. 
Williston,^,i'. •.f^..-.'.*._8 
R ichmond," . . i^ . i . . . .' /. 9 
Bolton, ...-.*......... . 2 

Waterbury, » V* ?••.... 8 

Moretown, ;. ... .'. 4 

Montpelier, ... i ...... . 7 

Williamstown,.».'. ..... 10 

Brookfield, 8 

Randolph, 12 

Ptoyalton, 3' 

Barnard, .......... ^ , . . 6 

vV oodstock, ..... i .-...' 8 

Windsor^. ^. i .•^. . »J;j, . . . 14 
Claremont, .>.,»;•. ,\^^^^^, 9 

Burlington. (See page 327,) . 

Montpelier, is situated on the Onion River, a little 
north of the centre of the state, 38 miles from Burhnsr- 
ton. It is at present the seat of government, and has 



Lempster, 12 

Washington, ,7 

Hillsborough, 9 

Francistown, 9 

Mount Vernon, .._,.-.... 9 

Amherst,, .s. . . . , . i , . . •, 6 

I\Ierrimack, .,.'.;,.».. 3 
Dunstable,........"... 7 

Tyngsborough,.. . . . . . 6 

C h elm sfo rd , . .;.' ,• .• .\ . . . 7 
Biilerica, .. . .'.-.. ^'., . ... 4 

Woburfl, ....-,■. , . y. . . 9 

Boston, .;... y;. ^, .^ .... 10 



) 



- u 



WINDSOR. ^ 35S 

a State-house, court-house, gaol and a house of public 
worship, besides a number of manufacturing establish- 
ments. It contains about 2000 inhabitants, v-^. 

With the exception of a narrow vale, through which 
the river passes, the village is surrounded by lofty hills 
and mountains, which give It the appearance of seclu- 
sion from the rest of the world. The road for several 
miles previous to reaching the village, and after leaving 
it, is on the bank of the river, and the mountain scene- 
ry is unusually romantic. ,. 

In passing from Montpelier to Randolph, the route is 
on what is termed the gulph road. This gulph is six 
miles in extent, between lofty mountains, with barely 
a sufficient space for a road and the White river, a beau- 
tifully transparent stream, exhibiting, in most instan- 
ces, a bottoni of white gravel. 

Randolph, 30 miles from Montpelier, is on a lofty 
ridge of land, affording some of the finest farms in tha 
state. The village is-^mall^^ but much admired for its 
location and neatness. "?' J 

RoTALTON,'3 mile§; A pleasant village. 

WoODsTocK,^14 miles, the capital of Windsor coun- 
ty, is a place of considerable business. The principal 
village, called Woodstock Green, is on the bank of the 
Glueechy river, and .contains a bank, court house, jail, 
church and a marble factory-^ako an extensive manu- 
factory of scythes. 

Windsor, 14 miles, is a beautiful town on the west 
bank of theConnectieirt. Th6 houses exhibit a very neat 
and handsome appearance, and stand in a fertile and 
richly cultivated tract of country. It contains a bank. 



354 



ROUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 



Female Seminary, a number of churches, and the 
Vermont Penitentiary. The bridge built across the 
Connecticut at this place is one of the handsomest 
on the river. Ascidney, a mountain in the southwest 
part of the town, is 1732 feet in height, and is well wor- 
thy the attention of those who take delight in the rich 
and diversified prospects afTorded from mountain sum- 
mits. . v.;^:-. •p.>,. •,-,- 

At Windsor, the route crosses the Connecticut river 
into New-Hampshire, and proceeds through a fertile 
country, occasionally interspersed with a pleasant vil- 
lage, to Boston. 

FROM BURLINGTON TO BOSTON, 

{By \omj of the White Mountains and Concord, ^^"€10- 
Hampshire) — 275 miles.* 

The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- 
lows : 
From Buriington to Miles. 



Montpelier,.. . . 38 

Littleton, N. H... 40 

E. A. Crawford's, 18 
Notch of the White 

Moimtains, .... 5 

Notch House,. .. . 2 

Crawford's Farm, 6 

Bartlett, 7 

C on w^a y, . • • . . i'^ V . 10 

Six Mile Pond,... 11 

Centre Harbor,. . . 24 

Guilford, 13 

Union Bridge,. ... 7 



126 



^ %'. Miles, 

Winnepis'eogee 
Bridge,.. ..... 4 

Concord, .. ...*.»', 17 202 

Hookset, .... . . . . 8 

Amoskeag, 7 

Piscataqua, 2 

Merrimack,. . . . . . 10 

Nashua, 6 

Tyngsboro', ....'. 8 

Lowell, 7 

By rail. road. 

Boston,. . . .-.!..•.'♦ 25 275 



. * Strangers designing to proceed directly to Boston 
from Burlington, via Concord, N. H. without visiting 



ROUTE TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 355 

A stage can be taken at Burlington 3 times a week 
for Montpclier, Vt. distant 38 miles, where it is re- 
commended to travellers to proceed to Littleton, N. H. 
40 miles east of Montpelier, from whence a stage 
passes twice a week through the J^otch of the White 
Mountains to Conway ; and from thence to Portland, 
(Maine,) three times a week. From Littleton to Ethan 
A. Crawford's, at the foot of the mountains, 18 miles, 
about half the distance is through a cultivated country; 
but the remaining part is through an extensive, and, 
but for the road, an impenetrable forest. 

The first view of the White Mountains, as distin- 
guished from the multitude of peaks and summits 
which meet the eye in every direction, is obtained a 
short distance from Littleton ; but Mount Washington 
is not seen till arriving near to Crawford's. The first 



the White Mountains, continue on the route from Mont- 
pelier to Randolph, as noticed at p. 352, and from thence 
to Hanover, 25 miles, and to Concord 55 miles farther. 
(The route from the latter place to Boston is noticed at 
p. 365.) Hanover is located on a handsome plain, half 
a mile from the Connecticut river, and contains the 
buildings of Dartmouth college and about 80 dwelling 
houses. The college derives its name from William, 
Earl of Dartmouth, one of its principal benefactors. It 
was founded in 1769, by the late Doct. Eleazer Whee- 
lock, and is in a flourishing condition. A medical in- 
stitution is connected with the college, and is accom- 
modated with a brick edifice, containing, besides rooms 
for students, a laboratory, anatomical museum, miner- 
alogical cabinet, library and lecture rooms. The num> 
bcr of students educated at this college annually is be- 
tween 2 and 300, 



FF 



356 WHITE MOUNTAmS. 

view of these mountains is magnificent, and as they 
are approached they become more and more so, until 
the bare bleak summit of Mount Washington, rising 
far above the immense piles wliich surround it, strikes 
the traveller with awe and astonishment. But the emo- 
tions which one receives from the grand and majestic 
scenery which surrounds him here, are utterly beyond 
the power of description. There is no single object 
upon which the eye rests and which the mind may 
grasp, but the vast and multiplied features of the land- 
scape actually bewilder wliile they delight. 

These mountains are the loftiest in the U. States east 
of the Rocky Mountains ; and their heights above the 
Connecticut river have been estimated as follows : 
Washington, 5350 ft. ; Jefferson, 5261 ; Adams, 5383 ; 
Madison, 5039 ; Monroe, 4932 ; auincy, 4470. From 
the summit of Mount Washington, the Atlantic ocean 
is seen at Portland, Go miles S. E. ; the Katahdin 
Mountains to the N. E. near the sources of the Penob- 
scot river ; the Green Mountains of Vermont on the 
west ; Mount Monadnock, 120 miles to the S. W. ; and 
numerous lakes, rivers, &c. within a less circumference. 
The J^otch or Gap is on the west side of the mountains, 
and is a deep and narrow defile, in one place only 22 
feet wude. A road passes through which is crossed by 
the river Saco ; into which several tributary streams 
enter from the mountain heights, forming many beau- 
tiful cascades. Lafayette Mountain is situated in the 
northeast part of the township of Franconia, nearly 
equidistant from Mount Washington at the northeast, 
and Moose-Hillock at the southwest, being about 20 
miles from each; and it is obviously more elevated 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 357 

ihan any other euininit in sight, except the White 
Mountains. 

At the Franconia Notch, near the road leading from 
Franconia to Plymouth, and about three miles south of 
Mount Lafayette, a foot path has been cleared out from 
the road to the top of the mountain. The point where 
the path commences is six miles from the Franconia 
iron works, and the length of it from the road to the 
summit is three miles ; and throughout this distance 
it is almost uniformly steep. The ascent for the dis- 
tance of about two miles is through a thick forest of 
hemlock, spruce, &c. Higher up, the mountain is en- 
compassed with a zone, about half a mile in width, cov- 
ered with stunted trees, chiefly hemlock and spruce. 
Above the upper edge of this zone, which is about half 
a mile from the top, trees and shrubs disappear. The 
summit is composed chiefly of bare rocks, partly in 
large masses, and partly broken into small pieces. 

The view from the top is exceedingly picturesque 
and magnificent. Although it is not so extensive as 
that from the summit of Alount Washington, yet ow- 
ing to the more advantageous situation of Lafayette, 
being more central as it respects this mountainous re- 
gion, it is not inferior to it in either beauty or grandeur. 
The view to the north-east, east, south and southwest, 
is one grand panorama of mountain scenery, present- 
ing more than fifty summits, which when viewed from 
this elevation do not appear to differ greatly in height. 
Some of these mountains are covered with verdure to 
tlie top, while the summits of others are composed of 
naked rocks ; and down the sides of many of thera 
Btiay be seen slides or avalanches of earth, rocks and 



358 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

trees more or less extensive, wliich serve to diversify 
the scene. The only appearance of cultivation in this 
vv^hole compass is confined to a few farms seen in a di- 
rection west of south, on the road to Plymouth, extend- 
ing along the Pemigewasset branch of the Merrimack. 
To the west is seen the territory watered by the Con- 
necticut and the Ammonoosuck. 

At a place in the road through the Franconia Notch 
where the path up the mountain commences, is exhi- 
bited to the view of the traveller, on the mountain ' 
opposite to Lafayette, the Profile or the Old Man of the 
Mountain, a singular lusiis naturae, and a remarkable 
curiosity. It is situated on the brow of the peak or 
precipice, which rises almost perpendicularly from the 
surface of a small lake, directly in front, to the height 
(as estimated) of from 600 to 1000 feet. The front of 
this precipice is formed of solid rock, but as viewed 
from the point where the profile is seen, the whole of it 
appears to be covered with trees and vegetation, ex- 
cept about space enough for a side view of the Old 
Man's bust. All the principal features of the human 
face, as seen in a profile, are formed with surprising 
exactness. The little lake at the bottom of the preci- 
pice is about half a mile in length, and is one of the 
sources of the Pemigewasset river. Half a mile to the 
north of this, there is another lake, surrounded with 
romantic scenery, nearly a mile in length, and more 
than half a mile in breadth. This is one of the sources 
of the southern branch of the Ammonoosuck, which 
flows into the Connecticut. These lakes are both sit- 
uated in the Notch, very near the road, and near to 
the point where the steep ascent of Mount Lafayette 



WHITE MOUNTAIN'S. 359 

commences. The northern lake is 900 feet above the 
site of the Franconia iron-works, and the highest point 
in the road through the Notch is 1 028 feet above the 
same level. Other curiosities in this vicinity arc, the 
Basin and the Pulpit. 

The portion of the Gap, including the Notch in the 
While Mounlaimi, which is the most sublime and inter- 
esting, is about 5 or 6 miles in length. It is composed 
of a double barrier of mountains, rising very abruptly 
from both sides of the wild roaring river Saco, which 
frequently washes the feet of both barriers. Sometimes 
there is not room for a single carriage to pass between 
the stream and the mountains, and the road is cut into 
the mountain itself. This double barrier rises on each 
side to the height of nearly half a mile in perpendicular 
altitude, and is capped here and there by proud castel- 
lated turrets, standing high above the continued ridges. 
These are not straight, but are formed into numerous 
zig-zag turns, which frequently cut off the view and 
seem to imprison the traveller in the vast, gloomy gulf. 
The sides of the mountains are deeply furrowed and 
scarred by the tremendous effects of the memorable 
deluge and avalanches of 1826. No tradition existed 
of any slide in former times, and such as are now ob- 
served to have formerly happened, had been complete- 
ly veiled by forest growth and shrubs. At length, on 
the 28th of June, two months before ihe fatal avalanche, 
there was one not far from the Willey house, which 
so far alarmed the family, thai they erected an encamp- 
ment a little distance from their dwelling, intending it 
as a place of refuge. On the fatal night, it was impene- 
trably dark and frightfully tempestuous ; the lonely 

ff2 



360 WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

t'amily had retired to rest, in their humble dwelling, six 
miles from the nearest human creature. The avalan- 
ches descended in every part of the gulf, for a distance 
of two miles ; and a very heavy one began on the 
mountain top, immediately above the house, and de- 
scended in a direct line towards it ; the sweeping tor- 
rent, a river from the clouds, and a river full of trees, 
earth, stones and rocks, rushed to the house and mar- 
vellously divided within six feet of it, and just beliind 
it, and passed on either side, sweeping away the stable 
and horses, and completely encirchng the dwelling, but 
leaving- it untouched. At this time, probably towards 
midnight, (as the state of the beds and apparel, &c. 
shewed that they had retired to rest,) the family issued 
from their house, and were swept away by the torrent. 
Search, for two or three days, was made in vain for 
the bodies, when they were at length found. They 
were evidently floated along by the torrent and covered 
by the drift wood. A pole, with a board nailed across 
it, like a guide post, now indicates the spot where the 
bodies were found. Had the family remained in the 
house they would have been entirely safe. Even the 
little green in front and east of the house was undis- 
turbed, and a flock of sheep, (a part of the possession 
of the family) remained on this small spot of ground, 
and were found there the next morning in safety — al- 
though the torrent dividing just above the house, and 
forming a curve on both sides, had swept completely 
around them, and again united below, and covered the 
meadows and orchard with ruins, which remain there 
to this day. Nine persons were destroyed by tliis ca- 
tastrophe, and the story of their virtues and their fate 



WHITE MOUNTAINS. 361 

is often toki to the traveller by the scattered popula- 
tion of these mountain valleys, in a style of simple 
pathos and minuteness of detail, which has all the in- 
terest of truth and incident of romance in its recital. 
The scene of this disaster w^as about 7 miles from 
Ethan A. Crawford's, and 2 miles from the commence- 
ment of the Notch, where Thomas Crawford, a brother 
of Ethan, now resides. 

The number of visitors to the White Mountains has 
been considerably increased, on account of the interest 
excited by these avalanches. The most sublime views of 
them, (several of which are nearly equal to the memo- 
rable one which swept away the unfortunate Willey 
family,) may be seen all along for several miles, in 
passing through the Notch. They are also obsei-ved 
from various points in the country around, extending 
down the sides of many of the elevated mountains ; 
and the astonishing effects of this extraordinai^ inun- 
dation are also witnessed in the great enlargement of 
the channels of the streams which rise in these clusters 
of mountains. Tliis is the fact especially with regard to 
the channel of the principal branch of the Ammonoo- 
suck, which rises near the summit of Mount Washing- 
ton. 

The camp which was built by Mr. Crawford for the 
accommodation of visitors over night, two miles and 
a quarter from the summit of Mount Washington, was 
situated near this branch, and was carried away by 
the swelling of the stream. A small camp has been 
erected in its place, but it is of little use, and affords no 
accommodations for lodging visitors over night. 



362 rRTEBtlRGH, 

The distance from Crawford's house to the summit 
of Mount Washington, is nine miles. Through a part 
of this distance a carriage road is now made, leaving 
only 4 or 5 miles to be ascended on foot. The time 
usually occupied in ascending the mountain, reckoning 
from the time of leaving Crawford's house to the time 
of returning to it again, is from ten to fourteen hours ; 
and the shortest time in which the enterprise has been 
performed is about eight hours. 

Continuing the route through the Notch, the first 
house reached, is the Elder Crawford's, six miles from 
the " Notch house," as that once occupied by the un- 
fortunate Willey is called. From thence to Bartlett is 
seven miles. From this place to Conway, which is ten 
miles, there are more appearances of cultivation, par- 
ticularly in the little valley through which the road pass- 
es. The country around, however, is still wild and 
unimproved, displaying a succession of bold and lofty 
mountain scenery. The prospect at the village of 
Conway is bounded on the north and west by high 
mountains, and the several summits of the White Moun- | 
tains, rising at 30 miles distant, are more easily distin- 
guished than at any point near them. 

Frteburgh, in Maine, is 10 miles from Conway, 
and is generally taken in the route to the White 
Mountains from the east. It is a considerable village, 
built upon a wide plain upon two broad streets, and 
has a respecable academy. It is chiefly interesting 
as being associated with the early history of our country. 
About a mile from the village is Lov ell's pond, the scene | 
of the bloody fight in 1725 between a gallant band of 
Americans under Capt. Lovell, and the remnant of the 



FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD CENTRE HARBOR. 363 

Pequawcket tribe under the renowned Chief Paugus. 
From Fryeburgh to Portland, distant 52 miles, the road 
is over a diill and uninteresting country; but travellers 
designing to visit that place in connection with the 
White Mountains, will find it the most direct route. 
[For a description of Portland, see the route from Boston 
to that place in subsequent pages.] 

FROM CONWAY TO CONCORD, N. H. 
76 miles. 
Returning to Conway, and proceeding on the route 
to Concord, Six Mile Pond is passed in going 11 miles, 
and Centre Harbor is reached in going 24 miles farther. 
The road for 20 or 30 miles, is through a valley border- 
ed with lofty mountains, exhibiting only an occasional 
settlement. 

Centre Harbor is on Lake Winnipiseogee,* the 
largest lake in the state. It is 23 miles long and from 
6 to 14 broad, and is remarkable for its beautiful and 
sublime scenery. It discharges its waters through the 
Winnipiseogee river into the Merrimack, 232 feet below 
the lake. From the top of Red Mountain in Centre 
Harbor, 1500 feet high, and which is accessible for 
about two thirds of the way in a carriage, there is an 
extensive prospect. At the distance of 70 miles to the 



* It is in contemplation to place a steam boat on this 
lake, to run from Centre Harbor to Alten Bay, thus 
substituting a water communication of 25 miles, instead 
of 30 miles of laborious land carriage. It would open 
an easy route from Boston and Portsmouth, N. H. to 
the White Mountains. 



364 BQTTAM LAKE CONCORD. 

southwest, may be seen Mount Monadnock ; at the 
west, the Kyarsai^e and Simson mountahis ; at the 
northwest the Mo!)se-Hillock ; at the north, the Sand- 
wich mountains, with the Squam lake intervening ; at 
the southeast, the Winnipiseogee lake, with its numer- 
ous islands, bays, and the mountains which rise from 
its borders, including Ossippee on the northeast, Gun- 
stock on the south, and a semi-circular mountain at the 
termination of the lake at the southeast ; the whole 
forming a vast billowy ocean of lofty mountains, with 
their grand intersecting curves, exhibiting a complete 
panorama of the sublimest mountain scenery. 

Squam Lake, which lies west of the mountain, is 10 
miles long and 5 wide, and like the Winnipiseogee, is 
sprinkled with numerous small and beautiful islands. 
The finest of trout are caught in these lakes, and their 
shores aboiuid with an abundance of game, affording 
to the angler and fowler ample means of employment 
as M'ell as amusement. 

The route from Centre Harbor to Concord, 41 miles, 
passes through an interesting country, affording a view 
of several flourishing manufacturing villages. 

Concord is the capitol of New-Hampshire. The 
village is principally composed of two streets on the 
west bank of the Merrimack river, and contains a state 
house, state prison, town house, bank, several church- 
es, 4 or 5 printing offices, and about 250 dwelling-hous- 
es. The state house, located near the centre of the 
village, is an elegant building of hewn granite, 100 
feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and the 
senate and representatives' chambers on the second. 



ROUTE FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON. 365 

The building is surrounded by a spacious yard, which 
is enclosed with a handsome wall. The state prison, 
a strong building, is a short distance from the state 
house. 

The Merrimack river is navigable for large boats 
from Concord to Chelmsford ; from whence to Boston 
the communication is continued in the Middlesex canal, 
28 miles long. 

FROM CONCORD TO BOSTON— 73 miles. 

Stages leave Concord every day, passing through 
Hookset, Amoskeag, Piscataqua, Merrimack, Nashua, 
and Tyngsboro' to Lowell, from whence a rail road 
will shortly be taken to Boston. The route is mostly 
along the bank of the Merrimack river; which, owing 
to its rapid descent, affords many important manufac- 
turing facilities. 

Nashua, 33 miles fi-om Concord, is the most impor- 
tant village between that place and Lowell. It is con- 
nected with the ^Merrimack river by means of a canal, 
1| miles lon^:, and contains several manufactories and 
about 3000 inhabitants. 

Lowell, 15 miles from Nashua, is one of the largest 
manufacturing towns in the U. States. It is located on 
the Merrimack river and the Middlesex canal leading 
to Boston. The falls of the river at this place are 30 
feet, and afford the most ample means for extensive op- 
erations by water power. The village and the first fac- 
tory were commenced in 1813, and the place now as- 
sumes the cliaracter of a large busthng town, laid into 



366 BOSTON AND LOWELL RAIL ROAD. 

streets with much taste and elegance, and the whole 
appearance of the place is rendered peculiarly interest- 
ing from the magnificent and numerous factories and 
public buildings With which it is adorned. Its popula- 
tion at the census in 1830, was 6,474. 

The Boston and Lowell Rail Road is now in ac- 
tive progress, and will soon be completed, affording an 
easy and expeditious route to the metropolis of the 
state. It commences at the basin of the canal in Low- 
ell, and crosses the Charles river at Boston over a 
wooden viaduct, on the west side of Warren bridge. 
The length of the road is 25 miles, and the inclination 
on no part of the route exceeds 10 feet in a mile. For 
the present, there will be but a single track, with the 
necessary number of turn-outs ; but provision is made 
for another track, if required. The materials employ- 
ed are principally stone and iron, and the workmanship 
is highly creditable to the company and to the individ- 
uals engaged in the construction. The travel and 
transportation on the road must necessarily be great ; 
and there can scarcely remain a doubt that it will 
prove a profitable investment to the stockholders', 

Medford, 4 miles from Boston, is on the Mystic 
river ; 3 miles from which is the handsome village of 

Charlestown. {See p. 376.) One mile farther, 
the Charlestown bridge intervening, is the 



BOSTON, S67 

CITY OF BOSTON,* 

Which 15 pleasantly situated at the bottom of Massa- 
chusetts Bay, on a peninsula, of an uneven surface, 
two mUes lon^, and in the widest part about one mile 
broad. The town owes its origin to a spirit of civil 
and religious liberty, which was excited to action by 
the persecutions that prevailed in England, during 
the reigns of Glueen Elizabeth, and Kings James and 
Charles the First. Most of those who can properly be 
considered as first settlers arrived prior to the year 
1643. The place was first called Trimountain, in con- 
sequence of three hills which were on the peninsula. 
It was afterwards called Boston, in honor of the Rev. 
Mr. Cotton, a minister of the first church in the town, 
and whose native place was Boston in England. 

The harbor is one of the best in the United States. 
It has a sufficient depth of water for the largest vessels 
at all times of tide, and is accessible at all seasons of 
the year. It is safe from every wind, and so capacious 
that it will allow 500 vessels to ride at anchor, while 
the entrance is so narrow as scarcely to admit two 
ships abreast. It contains about 75 square miles, with- 
in which are upwards of 100 islands or rocks ; and re- 
ceives within its bosom the waters of the Mystic, 
Charles, Neponset and Manatticut rivers, besides sev- 
eral streams of less magnitude. 



* Bowen's Picture of Boston, published by A. Bow- 
en, No. 2, Congress street, will prove a valuable guide 
to strangers visiting that city and its environs, 

GG 



363 BOSTOi*. 

Boston is very extensively engaged in commerce, and 
there are probably few cities in the world where there 
is so much wealth in proportion to the population. 
The trade, too, received from an extensive inland coun- 
try, is very great, the facilities for approaching the city 
being rendered easy by means of excellent roads. 

The appearance of Boston is much admired by stran- 
gers, particularly when approaching from the sea. Its 
Btreets do riot exhibit so great a regularity as some oth- 
er cities ; but its beautiful location and elegant public 
and private buildings, together with its richly ornamen- 
tal grounds for promenading, render it altogether a pe- 
culiarly delightful and attractive place. 

The city is divided into four local districts, called 
North Boston, West Boston, South End and South 
Boston ; and its population in 1830 was 61,392. From 
Copp's Hill, in North Boston, which is partly occupied 
for a church yard, the British cannonaded the town of 
Charlestown in 1775, during the battle of Bunker Hill, 
when tlie village was mostly destroyed by conflagra- 
tion. 

In the south-western part of the city, and in front of 
the state house, is the celebrated Common, present- 
ing an area of about 50 acres, containing the Mall, a 
very beautiful public walk, adorned with rows of trees. 
This is a delightful promenade during the summer 
months, and is a place of general resort. In the cen- 
tre of the Common is an eminence still exhibiting 
marks of the fortification erected by the British here 
during the revolution ; north of which is the Crescent 
Pond, a beautiful sheet of water, surrounded with trees. 
Near the Mall, in Ma?on street, is the Medical college. 



BOSTON. 359 

an edifice belonging to tlie Harvard University, sur- 
mounted by a dome wi^h a sky-light and balustrade. 

The Boston Athtncum is located near the head of 
Pearl street, and is a very spacious building, containing 
appropriate rooms. The number of volumes attached 
to the institution is about 30,000. It also contains 
nearly 14,000 medals and coins, some of which are ve- 
ry rare and interesting'. The rooms are open from 8 
A. M. to 9 P. M. and can be visited by strangers intro^ 
duced by subscribers. 

The Gallery of Fine Jlrts is a handsome structure in 
the rear of the Atheneum, and is appropriated for sci- 
entific lectures, the Academy of Arts and Sciences, the 
Massachusetts Medical Library, a philosophical appa- 
ratus of the Mechanic Institution, and for paintings ; 
the latter of which are exhibited in the upper story, 
and are generally very elegant. 

Among the other literary institutions in the city are 
the Massachusetts Histoncal Society, who have an ex- 
tensive library in a spacious apartment over the arch in 
Franklin street ; the Boston Library Society, who have 
a collection of 7000 volumes ; and the Columbian Li- 
brary, which contains about 4500 volumes. There are 
also numerous other libraries of less note. Among the 
benevolent institutions, are the House of Industry at 
South Boston, of rough dimension stone, 220 feet long, 
and 43 wide ; the Massachusetts General Hospital, 
founded in 1818, which has been richly endowed by the 
state and individuals ; and a Hospital for the Insane, 
the buildings of which sflPe at Charlestown. 

The first houses built in Ihe city were plain and the 
streets narrow and crooked ; but a few veara have 



570 BOSTON. 

wrought a striking and almost incredible change ; new 
streets have been laid out, old ♦nes straightened and 
improved, and neat brick and granite dwellings have 
been substituted for the ill-shapen and decaying houses 
of wood. The private buildings, and many of the 
stores recently erected, are more splendid than in any 
other city in the United States. In 1817, there waa 
erected on eacli side of Market street, a block of brick 
stores more than 400 feet in length, and 4 stories high; 
and on Central Wharf another immense pile of build- 
ings was completed the same year, 1240 feet long, con- 
taining 54 stores 4 stories high, having a spacious hall 
in the centre, over which is erected an elegant obser- 
vatory. Other costly works have been constructed 
which do honor to the town ; but the project which 
exceeded them all in boldness of design, in promise of 
public benefit, and in energy of execution, is that 
which v/ithin five or six years has been accomplish- 
ed in the vicinity of Fanueil Hall Market. The exten- 
sive rows of granite stores, four stories high, construct- 
ed after the best model, bound this newly perfected en- 
terprise. Between these two ranges of stores, stands 
the new Market House, at the distance of 102 feet from 
those on the south side, and 65 feet from the north. 
The centre part of the building is 74 by 55 feet, having 
a hall in the second story. The wings are each 231 
feet long by 50 wide, and two stories high. They have 
each a portico of four columns, 23 feet high ; the shafts 
of granite, in a single piece. The construction of the 
whole is of hammered granite oTa uniform color. 

Among the public buiMings are the State House, 
which is built on elevated ground, commanding a fine 



BOSTON. 371 

View of the surrounding country, and containing an 
elegant statue of ^\"ashington, which cost $15,000 ; tho 
new county Court House, built of stone at an expense 
of $92,000 ; the municipal Court House ; a new stone 
Jail ; Fanueil Hall, Avhcre all public meetings of the 
citizens are held ; two Theatres, one of which (the Tre- 
mont) was erected in 1827, at a cost of about $120,000, 
being 135 feet in length and about 80 in breadth, the 
front of Hallowell and Ctuincy granite, in imitation of 
the Ionic order, with four pilastrcs supporting an entab- 
lature and pediment, and elevated on a basement of 17 
feet ; the Custom House, City Hall, Merchant's Hall, 
Masonic Temple, Boylston Market and Boylston Hall ; 
U. S. Branch Bink ; Concert, Julian, Corinthian, Pan- 
theon, Washington and Chauncy Halls. 

Bndges. — There are seven bridges connecting Bos- 
ton with the adjacent towns. Charles River bridge, 
which connects it with Charlestown on the north, 1503 
feet long ; ^V^arren bridge, nearly parallel with the 
former, and also running to Charlestown, 1420 feet 
long, on piers and Macadmized, at the end of which the 
Lowell rail road terminates ; West Boston bridge, con- 
necting it M'ith Cambridge Port on the west, 7810 feet 
long ; Cragie's or Canal bridge, between the last two, 
connecting it with Leciimere Point, 2796 feet long ; and 
two bridges uniting it to South Boston. The other ave- 
nue is a mill dam, nearly two miles long and fifty feet 
v/ide, across the bay on the southwest side of the city ; 
which not only furnishes a bridge, but puts in operation 
extensive tide- mills and other water works. This dam 
was built in 1823-4, and cost upwards of $600,000. 
There is a branch from Cragie's bridge also, which runs 

gg2 



S73 BOSTON. 

to Charlestown Point, near the Massachusetts state 
prison. 

Churches. — There are nearly 50 churches in Boston, 
many of which have been built at great expense, and 
are very elegant. On one of the quoins at the south- 
west corner of the Brattle street church, of which Gov. 
Hancock was a benefactor, his name had been inscrib- 
ed ; but it was effaced by the British soldiery during 
the revolution, and the stone has been permitted to re- 
main as they left it. A shot from the Americans on 
the night previous to the evacuation of Boston by the 
British still remains in the tower where it originally 
struck. In St. Paul's church, in Common street, there 
is an elegant monument to the memory of Gen. War- 
ren, who Was slain on Bunker Hill, and whose remains 
are entombed in the cemetery beneath this church. 

Burial Grounds. — In the Chapel burial ground, north 
of the stone chapel, there are several ancient monu--| 
ments ; and among others that of Gov. Winthrop, who 
died in IG49. In the Copp's Hill ground similar me- 
mentoes of antiquity are found. In the Granary ground, 
the cenotaph erected to the memory of Doct. Franklin 
Btands over the tomb, in which repose the remains of 
both his parents. The tombs of Governors BeUingham, 
Sumner and Sullivan are also in tliis ground. 

The JsTexo-England Museimi, in Court street, is prob- 
ably the best in the United States, and should be visit- 
ed by every stranger before leaving the city. 

Hotels. — Tremont House is the most superb hotel in 
Boston, and not inferior to any in the Union. It is 
three stories high in front and four on the wings, ex- 
clusive of the basement. The front and two circular 



: 



BOSTON. 37S 

ends facing Beacon street, and the open ground south 
of the building, are of Gluincy granite, and surmounted 
by an entablature, supported by antes at each extrem- 
ity. The portico, which is of the same material, is 37 
feet long by 7 feet in width, and 25 feet high. Four 
fluted columns support the roof of the portico, the pro- 
portions of which are copied from those of the Doric 
portico at Athens, with the exception that the portico 
of the Tremont House is di-triglyph, the inter column- 
iations being nearly equal. The whole number of 
rooms is one hundred and eighty ; and the principal 
entrance is nearly opposite the Tremont theatre. From 
the lookout above the roof of this structure, an exten- 
sive and beautiful landscape, comprising a view of the 
harbor and the amphitheatre of hills to the west, and of 
the towns of Charlestown and Chelsea to the north, 
presents itself. 

The other principal public houses are the Exchange 
Coflee House, an excellent establishment, New-Eng- 
land Coffee House, Franklin House, Fulton House, 
Marlboro' Hotel, Commercial Coffee House, City 
Tavern, Washington Coffee House, Bromfield House, 
Merchants' Hotel and La Fayette Hotel. 

The Hancock House, the former residence of Gov. 
Hancock, is still in good preservation in Beacon street, 
near the state house. There are also several ancient 
buildings in the vicinitv of Ann street and Market 
square ; in one of which, opposite the Golden Key, a 
relative of Doct. Franklin formerly resided, to whom 
he was in the habit of paying frequent visits. 

The number of stage coaches which regularly leav 
Boston, is much larger than that of any other place 



374 MOUNT AL^BUR?*. 

the Union. There are between eight and ninety dis- 
tinct lines of stages ; which, according to their estab- 
lished arrangements, not including extras, make about 
125 departures and as many arrivals daily, or more 
than 1500 departures and arrivals each week. For the 
benefit of public houses and travellers, a Stage Register 
is published, once in two months, by Messrs. Badger 
and Porter, 63 Court street, containing an account of 
the principal lines of stages, steam boats and canal 
packets in New-England and New- York. 

The country around Boston is the admiration of ev- 
ery traveller of taste. The view from the dome of the 
slate house surpasses any thing of the kind in this 
country, and is not excelled by that from the castle hill 
of Edinburgli, or that of the Bay of Naples from the 
castle of St. Elmo. Here may be seen at one view, 
the shipping, the harbor, variegated with islands and 
alive with business ; Charles river and its beautiful 
country, ornamented with elegant private rfiansions ; 
and more than twenty flourishing towns. The hills 
are finely cultivated, and rounded by the hand of na- 
ture with singular felicity. 

Mount x\ubuiin. Every traveller of taste should 
visit the new cemetry at Mount Auburn, in Cambridge, 
5 miles from Boston. It is the pere la chaise of this 
country, and is situated in one of the most delightful 
spots ever selected for the repose of the dead. The 
grounds arc very extensive, comprising every variety of 
hill and dale, covered with trees and shrubbery of al- 
most every kind. There are numerous " avenues" for 
carriages, and " paths" for pedestrians, designated by 
botanical names. The interments as yet have been 



QDINCT DORCHESTER. 37» 

very few ; though the lots are all laid out, and many of 
them finished. Miss Hannah Adams, the historian of 
the Jews, was the first tenant of Mount Auburn. She 
died in December, 1831. Nature made this retreat ro- 
mantic — art has rendered it beautiful — the Creator 
formed it lovely — man has made it sacred ! 

CluiNCT is 10 miles from Boston, in a southerly direc- 

, tion. About half a mile northwest of the village is the 
mansion of the late John Adams, the second president 
of the U. States. His remains and those of his wife 
repose beneath the new church at Quincy, within 

I which a handsome monument to their memory has been 
erected by the late President, John Gluincy Adams, 
with a suitable inscription. 

The southwest part of the town is mostly composed 
of inexhaustable beds of granite, for the transportation 
of which a rail- way has been constructed from the 
beds to tide water, 3 miles long, i'or a great part of 
the distance it is on an inclination of one and a half 
inch to the rod, and the ordinary load drawn by a 
horse is between 8 and 9 tons. It will be found an ob- 
ject worthy the attention of strangers. 

DoRCHESTEn, is an ancient town, about 4^ milea 
south of Boston, having been settled in 1630, soon after 
Plymouth and Salem. The roads are numerous and 
crooked, but mostly level and kept in good repair. 
Many fine country seats and substantial farm houses 
are thickly arranged on their sides. . They have a town 
house, three congregational churches, and one for 
meth^dists. The population is about 4000. The pe- 
ninsula, called Dorchester Neck, borders on Boston har- 
bor, and a part of it is incorporated with the town of 



376 CHARLE3T0WN. 

Boston. Savin Hill, in this town, is a place of consid- 
erable resort, and the peninsula of Squantum is famoua 
for its yearly feast of shells. On the 4lh of March, 
1776, 1200 men sent by Gen. Washington, threw up 
works on Dorchester Heights in tlie night, which com- 
manded Boston harbor and drove the British army 
away. Traces of these works still remain. 

Brighton, 5 miles west of Boston, was formerly a 
part of Cambridge, and lies between that place and 
Brookline. Here is held the famous Cattle Fair, which 
was commenced during the revolutionary war, and has 
been increasing in importance ever since. Most of the 
cattle for the supply of the Boston market are brought 
in di'oves to this place ; often from 2 to 3000 a week ; 
every Monday is ^he fair day, when th^dealers resort 
thither to make their purchases. 

Wjm'ertwon is on Charles river, 7 miles northwest 
from Boston, and is th^ seat of several extensive man- 
ufacturing establishments. The provincial congress 
sat here in 1775, and were in session during the battle 
of Bunker Hill. The United States have an Arsenal 
established in this town. Fresh Pond, one of the 
most enchanting retreats in the vicinity of the me- 
tropolis, lies partly in this town and partly in Cam- 
bridge. 

Cambridge, 2 miles west of Boston. {See p. 349.) 

Charlestown, is a place of singular shape, extend- 
ing in a northwesterly direction from Boston harbor, 
about 9 miles in length, and not averaging a breadth of 
one mile, and in some parts it is not a quarter of a'mile 
wide. The compact part of tho town is situated on a 



CRSOLINB CONVENT. S77 

peninsula next to Boston and is laid out in regular 
streets. Charlestown contains a population of near 
9000. It has five houses of public worship, three banks, 
a spacious alms house, and a handsome market house. 
Besides Charles River and Prison Point bridges which 
connect this town with Boston, there is Chelsea bridge 
on the Salem turnpike, and Maiden bridge, both over the 
Mystick river. Breed's Hill and Bunker's Hill both 
lie within this peninsula; the former is 62 feet in height, 
the latter 1 10 feet. The U. S. Navy Yard, in this town, 
consists of about 60 acres of land, on which are built a 
large brick ware house, several arsenals, magazines for 
various kinds of stores, and a large brick mansion 
house for the superintending officer. The Dry Dock in 
this yard is but just completed, and is the finest in the 
United States. Its cost has been about half a million 
of dollars. The State Prison is at the west end of the 
town and is built of granite, 200 feet by 44, of 5 stories. 
Extensive additions to the buildings were made in 1827, 
on the Auburn plan, at an expense of $86,000. The 
Massachusetts Insane Hospital is delightfully situated 
upon Pleasant Hill, on the west side of the town. 

The ""Ursuline Convent, is on Mount Benedict, 
about 2i miles from Boston, commanding one of the 
most rich and variegated prospects in the United States. 
The plan of education pursued here is very extensive, 
embracing all those attainments wliich are considered 
necessary, useful or ornamental in society. Adjoining 
the establishment, is a garden beautifully laid out, to 
which the young ladies always have access. Besides 
this they are allowed, on days of recreation, to extend 
their walks over the whole farm, attended however by 
one or more of their instructors. 



37S brerd's hill. 

Breed's Hill is situated one fourth of a mile north- 
east of Charlestown, and affords a pleasant prospect of 
Bo'ston, (3 miles distant,) the harbor, Cambridge and 
its colleges, and of an extensive tract of highly cultiva- 
ted country. 

In the month of May, after the battle of Lexington, 
it was conjectured from the movements of the British 
army that Gen. Gage intended to penetrate into the 
country. It was accordingly decided by the provincial 
congress to attempt a defence of Dorchester Neck, and 
to occupy Bunker's Hill, just within the Peninsula on 
which Charlestov.-n stands. A detachment of 1000 
men, under Col. Prescot, pi-oceeded to execute these 
orders, but by some mistake. Breed's Hill, situated on 
the farther part of the peninsula, was selected for the 
proposed entrenchments. 

The party under Colonel Prescot proceeded in their 
work with so much diligence and secrecy, that by the 
dawn of day, they had thrown up a square redoubt of 
about forty yards on each side. Day-light discovered 
this new work to the British, and a heavy cannonade 
was commenced upon it from the shipping in the river. 
The fire was borne with firmness by the Americans, 
and did not prevent them from soon constructing a 
breast work, -which extended from the redoubt to the 
bottom of the hill. 

"As this eminence overlooked Boston, Gen. Gage 
thought it necessary to drive the provincials from it. 
To effect this object, he detached Major Gen. Howe, 
and Brigadier Gen. Pigot, at the head of ten compa- 
nies of grenadiers, and the same number of light in- 
fantry, with a proper proportion of field artillery. 



breed's hill. S79 

These troops landed at Moreton's Point, where they 
immediately formed ; but perceiving the Americans to 
wait for them with firmness, they remained on their 
ground until the success of the enterprize should bo 
rendered secure by the arrival of a reinforcement from 
Boston, for which General Howe had applied. During 
this interval the Americans also were reinforced by a 
body of their countrymen led by Generals Warren 
and Pomeroy ; and they availed themselves of this 
delay, to increase their security by pulling up some ad- 
joining post and rail fences, and arranging them in 
two parallel lines at a small distance from each other ; 
the space between which they filled up with hay, so as 
to form a complete cover from the musketry of the en- 
emy. 

"On being joined by their second detachment, the 
British troops, who were formed in two lines, advanced 
elowly under cover of a very heavy discharge of cannon 
and howitzers, frequently halting in order to allow their 
artillery time to demolish the works. While they w^ere 
advancing, orders w^ere given to set fire to Charlestown, 
a handsome village containing about 500 houses, which 
flanked their line of march. The buildings were chief- 
ly of wood, and the flames were quickly communicated 
80 extensively, that almost the whole town was in one 
great blaze. 

" It is not easy to conceive more grand and a more 
awful spectacle than was now exhibited ; nor a moment 
of more anxious expectation than that which was now 
presented. The scene of action was in full view of the 
heights of Boston and of its neighborhood, which wore 
covered with spectators taking deep and oppoaite int»r* 

RR 



380 breed's hij.l. 

ests in the events passing before them. The soldiers 
of the two hostile armies not on duty, the citizens of 
Boston, and the inhabitants of the adjacent country, 
all feeling emotions which set description at defiance, 
were witnesses of the majestic and tremendous scene. 

" The provincials permitted the enemy to approach 
unmolested within less than one hundred yards of their 
works, when they poured in upon them so deadly a fire 
of small arms that the British line was totally broken, 
and fell back with precipitation towards the landing 
place. By the very great exertions of their officers 
they were rallied, and brought up to the charge, but 
were again driven back in confusion by the heavy and 
incessant fire from the works. General Howe is said 
to have been left at one time almost alone, and it is 
certain that very few officers about his person escaped 
unhurt. 

" The impression to be made by victory or defeat, in 
this early stage of the war, was deemed of the utmost 
consequence ; and therefore very extraordinary ex- 
ertions were made once more to rally the English, 
"With great difficulty, they were a third time led up to 
the works. The redoubt was now attacked on three 
sides at once, while some pieces of artillery, which had 
been brought to bear on the breast work, raked it from 
end to end. The cross fire too, from the ships and 
floating batteries, not only annoyed the works on 
Breed's hill, but deterred any considerable reinforce- 
ments from passing into the peninsula, and coming to 
their assistance. The ammunition of the Americans 
was now so nearly exhausted, that they were no longer 
able to keep uo*^^'" oame incessant stream of fire, which 



BUiVKER HILL MONUMENT. 381 

had twice repulsed the enemy ; and on this third at- 
tempt, the redoubt, the walls of which the English 
mounted with ease, was carried at the point of the 
bayonet. Yet the Americans, many of whom were 
without bayonets, are said to have maintained the con- 
test with clubbed muskets, until the redoubt was half 
filled with the king's troops. 

"The redoubt being lost, the breast work which had 
been defended with equal courage and obstinacy, was 
necessaril}' abandoned ; and the very hazardous ope- 
ration undertaken, of retreating, in the face of a victo- 
rious enemy, over Charlestown neck ; where they wera 
exposed to the same cross fire from the Glasgow man 
of war and two floating batteries, which had deterred 
the reinforcements ordered to their aid from coming to 
their assistance, and had probably prevented their re- 
ceiving proper supplies of ammunition." 

The number of British troops engaged in this action 
was about 3000, and their loss in killed and wounded 
was 1050. The American force has been variously 
stated from 1500 to 4000; and their loss, in killed, 
wounded and missing, amounted to 450. General 
Warren was among the number of the slain, and a 
handsome monument now marks the spot where he fell. 
The spot of ground on which this monument stands, 
was recently purchased by Dr. J. C. Warren, of Bos- 
ton, a nephew of the lamented General, for the pur- 
pose, it is said, of preserving uninjured the few remain- 
ing traces of the memorable battle of '75. 

The corner stone of the Bunker Hill Monument 
now erecting on Breed's Hill, was laid on the 15th of 
June, 1825 : on which occasion the Marquis La Fay- 



?83 KAHANT. 

ette was present. The depth, however, proving insuf- 
ficient, the foundation was subsequently re-laid ; and 
the work has since progressed slowly. The Cluincy 
granite is used for its structure. Its base is 50 feet in 
diameter, and its height is to be 220 feet. 

Fort Independence, is situated on an island at the 
outlet of Boston harbor, 3 miles distant : opposite to 
which is Governor's Island, containing a fort erected 
during the late war. These two forts command the 
entrance into the harbor of Boston. Seven or eight 
miles below is the light house, at the north-east extrem- 
ity of the channel, where vessels enter the Atlantic. 

NAHANT, 

Is a peninsula running three or four miles into the 
eea, and is situated fifteen miles north-easterly from 
Boston. It is approached from the town of Lynn over 
a beautiful beach of a mile and a half in length. At 
the extremity of this beach commences the peninsula, 
which is about two miles in length, and in some parts 
half a mile broad, although its shores are extremely ir- 
regular, and indented with small bays worn into the 
rocks by the unceasing action of the waves. 

The surface is uneven, rising in some places to the 
elevation of sixty or seventy feet above the level of 
the sea. The shore is very bold, and presents on all 
sides, a grand embankment of broken massy rocks. 
At several points these rocks are worn into fantastic 
shapes, and at the time of high tide, or a swell of the 
sea, the roar and foam of the waters among them, pre- 
sents a most interesting spectacle, which is contem- 
plated by the quiet observer, seated on the summit 



NAHANT. 383 

above, with awe and admiration. The whole expanse 
of the ocean spreads out towards the east, and after a 
storm, the rolUng waves come pouring in their im- 
mense burden upon these rocks, with such a power, 
sublimity and uproar of contending elements, as can 
hardly be conceived by any one who has not witnessed 
the scene. And again when the sea is tranquil, it may 
be seen covered with shipping of all sizes, as far as the 
eye can extend, moving in different directions up and 
down the coast, and exhibiting an animating picture of 
the industry and activity of commerce. In short, for 
picturesque beauty and sublimity of scenery, as well as 
for the many advantages arising from its peculiar local ' 
situation, this place is not sui^passed by any on the 
coast. 

Besides a view of the ocean, Nahant presents a great 
variety of other interesting prospects. On one side 
is seen the village of Lynn, Swanscut, Phillips' Beach, 
Marblehead, Egg Rock, Baker's Island, and the north 
shore as far as the highland of Cape Ann ; on the oth- 
er, Charlestown, Boston, the islands in Boston harbor, 
part of Dorchester, Braintree, Nantucket and Scituate, 
I with the light houses of Boston, Scituate and Baker's 
Island, forming together a panorama hardly to be equal 
I led in beauty or variety. 

f The peninsula extends farther into the sea than any 

I other head land in the bay. It is distant from th« 

! nearest island in Boston harbor, to the south, seven 

miles — from the nearest point of the south shore, about 

twelve miles — from the north shore between two and 

three miles. It is on this side connected with the main 

i land by a beach a few rods wide. Thus insulate 

I hh3 



364 NAHANT. 

and surrounded by water, Kahant enjoys a climate and 
temperature very cool, and, comparatively, very equa- 
ble — a circumstance of much importance to the invalid, 
and which will determine the choice of a great portion 
of those who annually leave the city for the purpose of 
health or amusement. 

Accommodations for visitors have lately been multi- 
plied and greatly improved. A spacious and elegant 
stone edifice has been erected as a Hotel, near the ex- 
tremity of the peninsula, in a very commanding and 
pleasant situation. This building contains 70 cham- 
bers, constructed on a plan of pecuUar convenience, 
both for families and single persons. The dining hall 
is sufficiently spacious to accommodate 150 persons at 
table, besides which there are drawing rooms and pri- 
vate parlors. Large and commodious stables are ap- 
pended to the Hotel ; and a bathing house for warm 
and cold baths, and floating baths for those who may 
prefer the bracing action of sea water, make a part of 
the establishment. The Hotel is surrounded by piaz- 
zas, which afford a most delightful prospect in every 
direction, and receive the cool and refreshing breezes 
every part of the day. In a small village, a quarter of 
a mile from the Hotel, are several private boarding hous- 
es, v/here every accommodation can be had for invalids 
and for those who seek retirement. Numerous cot- 
tages, too, have been erected by several individuals for 
the purpose of affording more extensive and elegant 
accommodations to those who may pass the summer in 
this delightful place of residence. 

Nahant has many amusements. Angling with the 
rod may be enjoyed as a pleasant recreation, standing 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 385 

on the rocks ; and those who would try their skill in 
decoying" larger prey, may go out in boats, which are 
always in readiness, and furnished with suitable appa- 
ratus. Game, too, is abundant in the' vicinity. But 
there are few amusements or pleasures superior to that 
of riding, at suitable hours of the, day, on the beach. 

A beautiful building, in imitation of a Grecian tem- 
ple, has been erected on an erninence, near the Hotel, 
in wliich are two'elegant billiard rooms. There are al- 
so convenient covered boMling alleys, and such other 
means of amusement as are usuall v connected with the 
most extensive and elegant estabhshments at watering 
places. 

On the whole, the proximity of Nahant to Boston — 
its facility of access — the beauty and grandeur of its 
scenery — and above all, the singular local advantages 
it affords for invigorating the constitution, the salubrity 
and bracing tone of its atmosphere, and the excellent 
accommodations it offers to visitors — will undoubtedly 
make it a place of general resort during the summer 
months, from all parts of the United States. 

FORTS AROUND BOSTON, 

Erected during the revolution. 
The fortifications w4iich were thrown up around Bos- 
ton, which held a British army besieged during eleven 
months of the revolution, and which finally compelled 
them to carry their arms and warfare into other lands, 
will always be regarded as objects of interest by every 
stranger visiting that section of country. Many of 
these works are still in fine preservation, while others 
have become defaced by the hand of time, or have been 



386. FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 

removed to give place to modeni improvements. The 
following description of those remaining is extracted 
from Silliman's Journal, and will prove a guide to stran- 
gers in determining their localities : 

Al Breed's Hill, that blood-stained field, the redoubt 
thrown up by the Americans is nearly effaced ; scarce- 
ly the slightest trace of it remains ; but the entrench- 
ment, which extended from the redoubt to the marsh, is 
still marked by a slight elevation of the ground. The 
redoubt thrown up by the British on the summit of the 
hill, may be easily distinguished. 

Bunker Hill. The remains of the British fort are vis- 
ible, the works must have been very strong, and occu- 
pied a large extent of ground — they are on the summit 
and slope of the hill looking towards the peninsula. 

Ploughed Hill. The works upon this hill were com- 
menced by the Americans on the. night of August 26th, 
1775, and received more fire from the British than any 
of the other forts ; in a few days more than three hun- 
dred shells were fired at these fortifications. A small 
part of the rampart remains, but the w^hole hill is sur- 
rounded by the mounds and fosse of the ancient fort, 
which has been nearly obliterated. 

Cobble or BarraWs Hill was fortified, and occupied as 
a strong post, in the war of the revolution, by General 
Putnam, and, in consequence of its strength, was call- 
ed Putnam's impregnable fortress. It was commenced 
on the night of November 22d ; and the activity of its 
fire is w^ell known to those who have studied the details 
of the siege of Boston. This fort has been destroyed ; 
but the position is easily identified. 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 387 

Lechmere Point Redoubt, one hundred yards from 
West Boston bridge, displays more science in its con- 
struction, and has a wider and deeper fosse than most 
of the other fortifications. It was commenced on Dec. 
nth, 1775, and it was several days before it was com- 
pleted, during which time it was much exposed to the 
fire of the English in Boston, Two or three soldiers of 
the revolutionary army were killed at tliis redoubt, and 
the Prunus virginiana, with its red berries, marks the 
spot where they were probably interred. Upon one 
angle of the fort where the cannon were pointed with 
most destructive effect, a church is now erected. 

A causeway made across the marsh, the covered 
way which crosses the brow of the hill, and the lines 
which flanked Willis' Creek, are still perfect, and may 
be traced with great facility. 

Winter Hill Fort appears to have been the most ex- 
tensive, and the entrenchments more numerous, than 
any of the other positions of the American army. The 
fort on the hill is almost entirely destroyed ; only a 
Bmall part of the rampart still remains perfect. 

A redoubt situated upon Ten Hill Farm, which com- 
manded the navigation of the INiystic river, is complete, 
as are also some slight entrenchments near. 

A redoubt, situated between Winter and Prospect 
Hill, has been completely carried away, and a quarry 
has been opened on the spot. In the general orders, 
issued at Cambridge, guards were directed to be stf^- 
tioned at White House P.edoubt, and this »t is believed 
was the post intended, Gene-.-ei J^ee is said to have 
uad his head quarters in a farm house immediately in 
the rear of this redoubt. 



^d3 FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 

Prospect Hill has two eminences, both of which were 
strongly fortified, and connected by a rampart and 
fosse ; about two hundred yards are quite entire ; they 
are ornamented with the aster, soUdago, rosa, &c. ; and 
those who feel any curiosity about these lines, will be 
much gratified by the view here afforded. The forts 
on these hills were destroyed only a few years ago, but 
their size can be distinctly seen. On the southern em- 
inence a part of the fort is still entire, and the south- 
west face of the hill is divided into several platforms. 
There are also evident marks of the dwellings of the 
soldiers. The extensive view from this hill, the walk 
on the ancient ramparts, and the sight of the various 
stations occupied by the American army will render 
this spot, at a future period, a favorite resort. 

The Cambridge Lines, situated upon Butler's Hill, 
appear to have consisted of six regular forts, connected 
by a strong entrenchment. The most northerly of 
these forts is perfect. With the exception of one of its 
angles destroyed by the road, it appears as if just quit- 
ted by the army of America ; its bastions are entire, the 
outline is perfect, and it seems a chief d'oeuvre of the 
military art. 

A square fort may be seen near the southern extrem- 
ity of these lines, in fine preservation ; it is in a field 
withiii two hvmdred yards of the road to Cambridge. 
The eastern rampart is lower than the others, and the 
gateway with its bank of earth still remains. 

The sc'-or.d Line of Defence may be traced on the col- 
lege green at Cambridge, but its proximity to the pub- 
lic halls may have produced some inconvenience, and 
it has been carefully destroyed. 



FORTS AROUND BOSTON. 389 

A semicircular battery, with three embrasures, on the 
northern shore of Charles river, near its entrance into 
the bay, is in a perfect state of preservation. It is rath- 
er above the level of the marsh, and those vi^ho would 
wish to see it, should pass on the road to Cambridge 
until they arrive at a cross road which leads to the 
bank of the river ; by following the course of the 
stream, they may arrive at tliis battery without cross- 
ing the marsh, which is its northern boundary and dif- 
ficult to pass. 

Brookline Fort, or, as it is called in the annals of the 
revolution, the fort on Sewall's Point, was very exten- 
sive, and would still be perfect, were it not for the road 
which divides it into two nearly equal parts. With this 
exception, the ramparts and an irregular bastion, which 
commanded the entrance of Charles river, are entire. 
The fort was nearly quadrangular, and the fortifications 
stronger than many of the other positions of the Amer- 
ican army. 

A Battery, on the southern shore of Muddy river, 
j with three embrasures, is only slightly injured. 

Forts at Roxbury. The lower fort at Roxbury ap- 

, pears to have been the earliest erected, and by its ele- 

. vation commanded the avenue to Boston over the pe- 

1 ninsula, and prevented the advance of the English 

[ troops in that direction. It is of the most irregular 

form, the interior occupies about two acres of ground, 

' and as the hill is bare of soil, the places may still be 

seen whence the earth was taken to form the ramparts. 

This fortification has not been at all injured, and the 

; embrasures may still be noticed where the cannon 

( were placed which fired upon the advanced lines of the 

enemy. 



3S0 FOR.T5 AROUND BOSTON. 

On a higher eminence of the same hill is situated a 
quadrangular fort, built on the summit of the rock, and 
being perhaps their first attempt at regular Ibrlifica- 
tion, it was considered by the militia of unparalleled 
strength, and excited great confidence in that wing of 
the army stationed at Roxbury. 

The Roxbury Lines, about three quarters of a mile in 
advance of the forts, and two hundred yards north of 
the town, are still to be seen on the eastern side of the 
peninsula, and may be distinguished by any person go- 
ing by the nearest road to Dorchester, over Lamb's dam. 

At this period it may be proper to mention the British 
fortifications. The fines situated upon the Neck may 
be seen to great advantage on the western side of the 
isthmus, about a quarter of a mile south of the green 
stores. There appear to have been two lines of en- 
trenchments carried quite across the peninsula, and 
the fosse, which was filled at high water, converted 
Boston into an island. The mounds, ramparts and 
wide ditches which remain, attest the strength of the 
original works. The small battery on the common, 
erected by the British, may perhaps remain for a long 
period of years, as a memorial of ancient times. 

The Dorchester Lines. Of these, some very slight 
traces may be distinguished. 

Forts on Dorchester Heights. We now hasten to the 
last forts, the erection of which terminated the contest 
in tliis portion of the eastern states of Ameiica. It is 
to be regretted that the entrenchments thrown up by 
the army of the revolution, on the heights of Dorches- 
ter, are almost entirely obliterated by the erection of 
two new forts in the late war. But some traces of the 



wnft 



FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND. 391 

ancient works may be seen on both hills ; the old forts 
were constructed with more skill, and display more 
science than the recent works, the ramparts of which 
are even now falling down ; and we would gladly see 
them destroyed if from their ruins the ancient works 
could re-appear. 

A noble octagonal fort and two batteries, which 
may be seen in perfect preservation upon the prom- 
ontory, were erected after the departure of the English 
from Boston. The fort is situated at the point ; one 
battery is in the rear of the House of Industry, whose 
inmates will probably soon destroy it, and the other 
upon a rising ground immediately below the heights of 
Dorchester. 

At JVoofc Hill, near South Boston bridge, may be seen 
the last breast-work which was thrown up by the for- 
ces of America during this arduous contest. Its ap- 
pearance on the morning of Alarch 17, 1776, induced 
the departure of the British troops from Boston in a few 
hours, and thus placed the seal to the independence of 
the New-England states. But those who would wish 
to see this entrenchment must visit it soon. The ene- 
my have attacked it on three sides, and are proceeding 
by sap and by mine ; part of the fosse is already de- 
stroyed, and the rampart nods to its fall. 

FROM BOSTON TO PORTLAND, (Maine.) 

A stage leaves Boston daily at 8 A. M. (Sundays ex- 
cepted,) reaching Newburyport at 1 P. M. and Ports- 
mouth, N. H. at 5. Leaves Portsmouth the next morn- 
ing at 8, and reaches Portland at 5 P. M. Distance, 
II 



392 LTNN SALEM. 

120 miles — fare $6. The intei'vening distances are as 
follows : 



Miles. 

Lvnn,* 9 

Salem,* 5 

Newburyport, 24 

Portsmouth, 24 



Miles. 

York, 9 

Kennebunk, 24 

Saco, 10 

Portland, 15 



Ltnn is a large township, with a population of be- 
tween 4 and 5000. It contains 6 churches, and many 
larofe manufacturins establishments for ladies' shoes, 
which are sent to the southern states and the West In- 
dies. The L3'nn beach connects the peninsula of Na- 
hant vvith the main land, and is a favorite resort in 
summer. 

This is one of the oldest towns in New-England, and 
several records of its early history have been recently 
collected and published in Boston. The author has 
given a mass of interesting facts and occurrences of 
" olden time," furnishing altogether a curious compen- 
dium, not only to antiquarians and the immediate de- 
scendants of the first settlers of that place, but to read- 
ers of every class and section of the country. All the 
quaintness and original simplicity of the original lan- 
guage has been preserved, and such remarks of the 
compiler introduced as are necessary to explain the 
meaning or increase the interest. 

Salem is considered the second tovvn in New-Ensf- 
land in commerce, wealth and population. It is located 



* These places are not on the direct route from Bos- 
ton to Newburyport ; but it is, nevertheless, recom- 
mended to travellers to pass through them. 



NEWBURTPORT POUTSMOUTH. 393 

on a peninsula formed by two inlets of the sea, called 
North and South rivers. On the opposite side of North 
river is the town of Beverly, to which a bridge leads, 
1500 feet in length. Marblehead is on the opposite 
side of South river, which forms the harbor, defended 
by two forts. Salem contains a court house, 3 banks, 
an atheneum, a museum, an orphan asylum and 13 
churches. The Square, near the centre of the town, is 
a beautiful ti-act of ground ; and is surrounded by nu- 
merous elegant private dwellings. 

Salem was settled as early as 1626. Its Indian name 
was Naumkeag. In 1692, and for some time after- 
wards, several of its inhabitants became a prey to the 
greatest credulity and bigotry. Its prison was crowd- 
ed with persons accused of witchcraft, many of whom 
paid their life as a forfeit for their supposed crimes. The 
present population of the town is from 12 to 15,000. 

Newburyport is handsomely situated on the south 
bank of the Merrimack riverj three miles from its 
mouth, rising on a gradual acclivity from the water. 
The streets are wide, and intersect each other at right 
angles ; and many of the houses are elegant. The 
court house, standing at the head of one of the princi- 
pal streets leading from the river, adds much to the 
beauty of the place. The village contains 2 banks, 7 
churches and 7000 inhabitants, and is a place of con- 
siderable trade ; though it suffered much during the re- 
strictive system, previous to the last war. 

Portsmouth is the largest town and only seaport 
in New-Hampshire. It is located on the south side of 
the Piscataqua river, 2 miles from its mouth. The town 



394 PORTLAND. 

contains 5 banks, an atheneum, an asylum for females^ 
an alms-house, custom-house and 7 churches. A 
bridge, 2371 feet long, crosses the river at this place to 
Kittery, Me. on the opposite side. On an island be- 
tween the two places is a navy yard. The town is 
handsome in its appearance, is a place of considerable 
trade, and contains a population of about 8000. 

In 1695, this place was assaulted by a party of In- 
dians, and 14 of its inhabitants killed, one scalped, who 
recovered, and four taken prisoners. After burning 
several houses, the Indians retreated through what is 
called the great sivamp. They were, however, overtak- 
en the next morning by a company of militia, dispers- 
ed, and the prisoners re-taken. 

After leaving Portsmouth, the villages of York, 
Welles, Kennebunk and Saco, are successively pass- 
ed, before reaching Portland ; affording very little to 
interest, if we except an old fort about three miles and 
a half northeast of Welles, and the falls at Saco, on 
the river of that name, which rises in the White 
Mountains of New-Hampshire. These falls are about 
30 feet, and afford facilities for extensive manufactur- 
ing operations. 

Portland, the capital of Maine, and a port of entry, 
is a beautiful town, located on a peninsula, projecting 
into Casco bay. This peninsula has two prominences ; 
on one of which stands several elegant dwelling houses, 
and on the other an observatory. The harbor is safe, 
well defended, and has a light-house at its entrance. 
Among the public buildings in the town are an elegant 
court-house, a jail, custom-house, 2 banks, an acade- 
my, atheneum and 10 churches. Population, upwards 



PORTLAMD. 595 

of 12,000. From the observatory, an extensive prospect 
is had of the ocean and of the country at the northvi'est, 
terminated by the White Mountains. On Bang's and 
House Islands, at the entrance of the harbor, are Forts 
Preble and Scammel. At the east, 32 miles distant, is 
seen the light-house at the mouth of the Kennebec riv- 
er, with a great variety of islands intervening. West 
of the obsez-vatory is Fort Sumner, on a hill, with seve- 
ral intrenchments made during the revolutionary war. 

Portland (then called Falmouth) M-as nearly laid in 
ruins in Oct. 1775. The inhabitants were required by 
Capt. jNIowatt, of the British sloop of war Canceau, to 
surrender their arms ; and on a refusal, he commenced 
a bombardment of the town, which lasted 9 hours, re- 
sulting in a destruction of 130 houses, three fourths of 
the whole number. 

Stages leave Portland three times a week for the 
White Mountains in New-Hampshire, {see p. 363,) 
passing through "Westbrook, C4orham, Standish, Bald- 
win, Hiram, Brownsficld and Fryeburgh to Conway, 
which they reach at evening. Distance 62 miles — fare 
v53. From Conway, a stage leaves on Monday and 
Thursday mornings, passing through Bartlett, Hart's 
Location, over the Avalanches at the Notch of the 
White Mountains, through Nash and Swain's Loca- 
tion, Britton woods and Bethlehem to Littleton on the 
Connecticut river. Distance 48 miles — fare $3. [Lit- 
tleton is 17 miles below Lancaster, 100 miles north of 
Concord, N. H. and is located at the mouth and falls of 
the Amanoosuc river. See p. 355.] 

ii2 



396 FROM PORTLAND TO QUEBEC. 

FROM PORTLAND TO aUEBEC— 25S miles. 
A new road is now finished from Portland to Gluebec, 
principally over the route pursued by Gen. Arnold and 
his troops in 1775, previous to the assault of that place 
by Gen. Montgomery. The completion of this road 
will frequently induce strangers to take the state of 
Maine, as well as Montreal, in their route to or from 
Gluebec. 

The intermediate distances on this route are as fol- 
lows : 



Miles. 

Bloomfield, 7 

Nonidgework 5 

Anson, 11 

Dead River, 20 

Forks of Kennebeck 

River, 15 

Moose River, 24 

Chaudiere River, .... 37 

Gluebec, 60 



jyiiles. 
From Portland to North 

Yarmouth, 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunsvv'ick, 9 

Bowdointown, 13 

Hallowell, 15 

Augusta, 3 

Sidney,. 12 

Watei-ville, 5 

Fairfield, 4 

North Yarmouth, 12 miles north of Portland, is 
located on Casco bay, about 35 miles from the ocean, 
and is a village of some magnitude, containing 4 ( hurch- 
es, an academy and about 4000 inhabitants. The bay 
afibrds fine anchorage for vessels, and the surrounding 
country is picturesque and interesting. 

Freeport, 6 miles farther, is at the head of Casco 
bay, and contains a population of about 2500 inhabi- 
tants. 

Brunswick, 9 miles. The village, which is peculiar- 
ly pleasant, is situated on the southwest bank of the 
Androscoggin river, at the falls, which furnish valua- 



HALLOWELL SJDNET. 397 

h\e seats for mills and manufactories. Bmvdoin college, 
at this place, is located on an elevated and beautiful 
plain, enjoying a rich and diversified view of the riv- 
er and surrounding country. The college originally 
received a donation of $10,000 from the late James D. 
Bowdoin, Esq. and five townships of land from the 
state. It also receives 5^3000 annually from the latter. 
From 130 to 150 students are yearly educated at this 
institution. 

BowDoiNTOWN, 13 miles. 

Hallowell, 15 miles, is a very flourishing village, 
on the Kennebeck river, at the head of tide water. It 
contains an academy, a bank, three churches, between 
2 and 300 dwelling houses, some of which are very ele- 
gant, and about 3000 inhabitants. Granite is here ob- 
tained, which is considered equal to any ever discover- 
ed in the Union. Vessels of 150 tons burthen ascend 
the river as far as this place. 

Augusta, 3 miles, is the seat of government of the 
state, and is located on both sides of the Kennebeck 
river, over which is a substantial bridge. A part of the 
village is on a very elevated plain above the river, and 
a part of it on its banks. Many of the dwellings ex- 
hibit much taste and elegance in their structure, and 
the whole appearance of the place is peculiarly inviting 
and pleasant 

The new State House, lately erected here, is an 
ornament to the town and highly creditable to the mu- 
nificence of the state. 

Sidney, 12 miles farther, is a pleasant village on tho 
Kennebeck river. 



393 FROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT. 

Waterville, 5 miles, on the same river, is a placo 
of considerable magnitude, containing a bank. At Te- 
conick Falls in this town, at the head of boat naviga- 
tion, there are several manufactories, and a flourishing 
village is springing up. Waterville college, under the 
direction of the Baptist denomination, is located in this 
town. It was commenced in 181 S, and educates be- 
tween 50 and 60 students annually for the ministry. 

Bloomfield, 11 miles. A pleasant village, contain- 
ing a respectable academy. 

NoRRiDGEwoRK, 5 milcs, is situated on both banks 
of the Kennebeck river. It is the capital of Somerset 
county, and contains a court house and jail. The vil- 
lage is centrally located for the trade of a fertile back 
country, and is a flourishing place, containing a popu- 
lation of about 2000 inhabitants. 

The route to Quebec continues through a lc?s pop- 
ulous country for about 50 miles ; when, for the re- 
maining distance, it passes through extensive forests, 
with an occasional settlement only. These forests, 
however, are giving way to the arts of husbandry, and 
in a few years will doubtless be succeeded by a succes- 
sion of settlements and cultivated farms. 

FROM PORTLAND TO EASTPORT— 287 miles. 
The following are the intermediate distances : 



Miles. 

North Yarmouth, 12 

Freeport, 6 

Brunswick, 9 

Bath, 7 

Wiscasset, 15 

Newcastle, 11 



Miles 

Waldoboro', 12 

"Warren, 8 

Thomastown, 5 

Camden, 11 

Lincolnville, 7 

Belfast, M 



BATH — WALDOBORO*. 399 



Miles 

Buckstovvn, 18 

Penobscot, • 13 

Castine, 4 

Blue Hill, 10 

Surry, 8 

Trenton, 12 



Miles. 

Harrison, 8 

Columbia, 12 

Jonesboro', 9 

Machias, 9 

E. Falls of Machias,. . . 6 

Dcnneysville, 23 



Sullivan, 9 ! Eastport Ferry, 14 

! Steuben, 14 j Eastport, 4 

The route is near the coast, and embraces an extent 
of highly interesting and romantic country. North- 
Yarmouth, Freeport and Brunswick have already been 
noticed. 

Bath, 34 miles northeast of Portland, is a port of en- 
try, on the west side of the Kennebeck river, 15 miles 
from its mouth. The river is here a mile wide, and the 
town is built on an acclivity for a mile and a half in ex- 
tent, and assumes a very handsome appearance from 
the water. It is a place of extensive business, and 
contains two banks, an academy, three churches, and 
a population of nearly 4000 inhabitants. 

WiscASSET, 15 miles, is a port of entry, located on 
the west side of Sheepscot river, with an excellent har- 
bor. The place contains a court house, jail, bank, in- 
surance office, and some other public buildings, and a 
population of about 2500. 

Newcastle, 11 miles, is located on the west side of 
Sheepscot river. 

Waldoboro', 12 miles, is a port of entry and a place 
of considerable trade, containing a population of about 
3000 inhabitants. 



400 WARREN CASTINE. 

Warren, 8 miles, is located on St. George's river, 
which is navigable to tliis place for sloops, 

Thomastown, 5 miles, is a place of extensive busi- 
ness, situated on the west side of Penobscot bay and on 
St. George's river, 12 miles from its mouth. The state 
prison of Maine is at this place, and is in a lot of 10 
acres, enclosed by a solid wall, within which is an ex- 
tensive quarry of limestone. There are also in the vi- 
cinity of the town inexhaustible quarries of lime and 
marble, of which large quantities are annually exported. 
The village contains a bank and a population of about 
3000 inhabitants. About a mile from the village is the 
ancient residence of the late Gen. Knox, now in a state 
of decay. 

Camden, 11 miles, and Lincolnville, 7 miles far- 
ther, are both situated on the west side of the Penob- 
scot bay. 

Belfast, 11 miles from Lincolnville, is on the same 
side of the bay, and is a flourishing village. 

BucKSTOWN, 18 miles, is on the east side of the Pe- 
nobscot, the largest river in the state. It is navigable 
for larffe vessels to Bancror, 50 miles from its entrance 
into the bay. 

Penobscot, 13 miles, on the east side of the bay of 
that name. 

Castine, 4 miles, is situated on a promontory, near 
the head of the east side of Penobscot bay, with a beau- 
tiful harbor stretching out before the town. Castine 
can be easily defended from assault ; as the narrow- 
ness of the isthmus wlxich connects it with the main 



MACHIAS EASTPORT. 401 

land could be insulated with comparatively a small 
expense ; added to which, strong batteries would ena- 
ble it to resist any force which would probably be 
brought against it. This would be the more important 
in time of war, as an enemy in possession of the place, 
would have command of the intermediate country from 
Penobscot to St. Croix. The place was taken during 
the last war, and the British entrenchments on a hill 
above the town are still visible. 

Blue Hill, Surry, Trenton, Sullivan (in which there is 
a bridge across Hog bay 1400 feet long) Steuben, Har- 
rison, Columbia and Jonesborough are successively 
passed in travelling from Castine to 

Machias, a port of entry and capital of Washington 
county, Me. The town contains two villages ; one sit- 
uated at the falls of the east branch of the Machias 
river, and the other at the falls of the west branch of the 
same stream. Between the two villages a bridge is 
erected across Middle river, which, with the causeway, 
is 1900 feet long. Macliias contains a court house, 
jail, 2 churches, a very flourishing academy, and is a 
thriving place. 

Eastport, is a port of entry on Moose island inPas- 
samaquoddy bay. The island is 4 miles long, with a 
bold shore, the tide ordinarily rising here 25 feet. The 
town is principally built on the southern part of the isl- 
and, and contains a bank, 3 churches and about 2000 
inhabitants. There are also fortifications in the vicini- 
ty, which were constructed during the last war. The 
view from the heights on the island is very extensive 
and romantic, taking in the bay with its numerous isl- 
ands and the adjacent coast. Between Eastport and 



403 STAGES FROM BOSTON TO NEW-TORK. - 

the town of Perry on the main land, a bridge has been 
constructed, rising of 1200 feet long. A line of steam 
boats is established between this place and Boston^ 
touching at Portlaud, so that travellers can take either 
a water or land route to that city. 

RoBBiNSTOWN, 13 milcs northwest of Eastport, locat- 
ed at the mouth of the St. Croix river at its entrance 
into the Passamaquoddy bay, is on the boundary line 
between the United States and the British Province of 
New-Brunswick, and is opposite St. Andrews. 

STAGES FROM BOSTON TO NEW- YORK, 
via Hartford and JsTew-Haven, Conn. 
A stage leaves Boston, daily at 1 P. M. ; arrives ir> 
Hartford next morning at 6, in New-Haven at 2 P, M.^ 
and in New- York at 6, second morning — distance 210 
miles, fare $11. This line meets a steam boat every 
day at New-Haven, except vSunday — fare through by 
stage and steam boat, ,$10,50. A stage also leaves 
Boston on Sunday and Wednesday, at 3 A. M. reaches 
New-London, Conn, at evening, where a steam boat is 
taken -which reaches New- York the next morning. 
Another Stage leaves Boston and New-Haven daily, 
passing through Hartford and reaching the two first 
mentioned places at evening of the second day — dis- 
tance 13G miles, fare $7,50. 

Either of the foregoing routes can be taken by trav- 
ellers wishing to proceed directly to New- York ; but 
where leisure will permit, an excursion by the way of 
Providence is recommended, on the route hereafter de- 
signated. It is more circuitous, but much more inter- 



rnOM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. 1. 403 

csting ; and occupies less time, for there is but 40 miles 
land travel. 

FROM BOSTON TO PROVIDENCE, R. I. 

40 miles.* 

A stage leaves Boston every morning at 5 o'clock, 

and connects with the steam boat line at Providence 

daily, except Sundays ; and with the steam boat line 

at New-London, Conn, on Wednesday and Sunday. 

Stages also leave Boston daily at 7 and 11 A. M., for 

Providence. Fare $2,50. The intermediate distances 

follow : 

Miles. 

Roxbury, 2 

Dedham, 6 

Walpole, 10 



Miles, 

Wrentham, 7 

Pawtucket, 9 

Providence, 4 



In proceeding to Roxbury, the stage passes over what 
is called the Neck, a narrow strip of land, contain- 
ing intrenchments noticed at p. 390. On Dorchester 
Heights, {see p. 390 and p. 391,) which are seen at the 
east, many of the works erected for commanding Bos- 
ton and its harbor, are in tolerable preservation. 

Passing the Blue Hills, 7 miles from Boston, which 
afford a pleasant retreat in the summer months, and a 
charming prospect of the surrounding country, the vil- 
lage of 

Dedham is reached in going three miles farther. It 
is a large and beautiful town, containing a court house, 



* A rail road is now constructing from Boston to 
Providence, which will probablv be completed the pres- 
ent year, (1833.) 

KK 



404 



PROVIDENCE. 



jail, bank, 6 churches, and between 2 and 3000 inhabi- 
tants. Charles and Neponset rivers run through the 
place, and afford numerous seats for mills and manu- 
facturing establishments. Silk is reeled and throwsted 
here on a small scale — first experiment of throwsting in 
the U. S. 

Walpole 10, and Wrentham 17 miles from Ded- 
ham, are small villages. 

Pawtucket, 9 miles from Wrentham, is located at 
the falls of the Pawtucket river ; and is one of the most | 
extensive manufacturing places in the union. It con- 
tains 10 or 12 cotton factories, several shops for mak- 
ing machinery, a number of factories for other purpo- 
ses, and a population of about 4000. I'our miles far- 
ther, over a most delightful road, is the handsome and 
flourishing town of 

PROVIDENCE. 

The settlement of this place was commenced as ear- 
ly as 1636, by Roger Williams. He was a puritan 
minister, and had been settled at Salem; but holding 
tenets contrary to the faith of many of his people, he 
was banished the jurisdiction of Massachusetts. He 
came to what was called by the Indians Mooshausick ; 
but which in gratitude for the providential safety he: 
had experienced, he called Providence. It is located 
on the river of the same name, just above the mouth of 
the Seekhonk or Pawtucket, 35 miles from the ocean,] 
and is a port of entry. The town is built on both] 
sides of the river, across which is an elegant bridge; 
and is one of the most wealthy and enterprising placeaj 
in the union. Besides a great variety of extensive 



BROWN DNIVERSITT. 405 

manufacturing establishments, it contains acourt house, 
town house, market, hospital, 7 banks, a college, 3 
academies, and several churches ; and its population ia 
not far from 18,000. 

Brown University, at this place, over which the 
Rev. Francis Wayland, jun, presides, was incorpora- 
ted in 17G9. It soon rose to a respectable rank among 
the literary institutions of the country ; but after\\'ard3 
declined. Under its present able and judicious Presi- 
dent, however, it has attained a handsome elevation, 
and promises to become one of the best seats of learn- 
ing in the union. The library has lately been much in- 
creased by donations from England ; and the philo- 
Bophical apparatus, which is extensive, is constantly 
improving. The college edifices, of which there are 
two, are located on a lofty eminence, with streets lead- 
ing thereto, richly decorated with fine mansions and 
elegant gardens. About a mile still farther east or 
north-east, stands a large building, called the Ctuaker 
College. It was built by the Friends, and is occupied 
as a boarding school of that persuasion, and is in ex- 
cellent order. Near this, of corresponding dimensions 
and appearance, stands the new Alms House. A lega- 
cy of $60,000, has enabled the town to erect this noble 
structure. 

The town abouiids with the most delightful piivate 
residences. The new town on 'thi west side of the 
river, has more the appearance of a flourishing com- 
mercial city than the old. It also contains many spa- 
cious dwellings vi^hich impart to it an air of prosperity. 
The Hill, or East Providence, as it is called, is occupi- 
ed by gentlemen's private mansions, or country seats, 



406 BLACKSTONE CANAL. 

all advantageously located, with fine dourt yards in 
front, thickly planted with shrubbery, while highly cul- 
tivated and beautiful gardens adorn the rear, and add 
immeasurably to their comforts. The charming resi- 
dences of Messrs. Brown, Ives, and Governor Fenner 
are entitled to particular notice. It was on the present 
domains of Governor Fenner, that Roger Williams 
first planted himself, and it has so happened that from 
that day to this, that situation has belonged to a gov- 
ernor of Rhode Island. 

The Blakstone Canal terminates at this place. It 
commences in the Blackstone river at Worcester, 45 
miles distant, and pursues the valley of the river to 
Woonsokett falls near the Massachusetts line ; from 
whence there is an excavation to Providence. 

Steam Boats leave Providence six times a week for 
New-York— fare $6. 

Stages, also, leave Providence three times a week 
for Norwich and Middletown, and daily (except Sun- 
days) for Hartford, Conn, arriving at those places at 
evening. Fare to Norwich, 45 miles, ,$3 — to Middle- 
town $4 — to Hartford, 74 miles, $4. A stage also 
leaves Providence twice a week for New-London, 
Conn, distant 59 miles, connected with a steam boat 
line for New-York.* 



* A rail road is in progress from Providence to Ston- 
nington, Conn., which, when completed, will give an 
uninterrupted steam boat and rail road communication 
between Boston and New-Y ork. 



FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. 407 

FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT. 

Stages leave Providence daily, except Sundays, at 9 
A. M, reaching Bristol at 11, and Newport at 4 P. M. 
Fare from Providence to Bristol, 15 miles, $1 — from 
Pro-vddence to Newport, 30 miles, $2,33. 

Bristol is a pleasant town, with a population of 
about 1500 inhabitants. The village is located on the 
east shore of the Narraganset bay, affording an excel- 
lent harbor for vessels of the largest dimensions. A- 
bout two miles from the ferry in this town an exten- 
sive mine of anthracite coal was opened a few years 
since, from which very considerable quantities are an- 
nually taken. 

Newport is a large town, with an extensive harbor 
which is defended by Forts Adams and Dumplings at 
its entrance, and by Fort Woolcott on Goat Island, op- 
posite the town. There is also a small battery about 
a mile above the town, called Fort Green. The village 
is about a mile in length, and rises in a gentle acclivity 
from the harbor, giving it a fine appearance, when ap- 
proached from the water. It contains a state house, 
theatre, five banks, 1 1 churches, several manufactories, 
and a population of about 8,000. 

Newport was possessed by the British for a considera- 
ble time during the revolutionary war. In 1778, un- 
der an expectation of aid from the French fleet, which 
had sailed into the harbor, an American force, of about 
10,000 strong, commanded by Gen. Sullivan, and aided 
by Gen. Lafayette, made preparations for attacking 
the place. On the approach of the Americans, the 

kk2 



403 NEWPORT. 

British abandoned their outposts and retreated to their 
works within the town. These posts were immediate- 
ly possessed by the Americans ; and the most flatter- 
ing prospects existed, that the allied forces would be 
enabled to capture the entire British army. But the 
French admiral, who had been a military officer, and 
who, by a previous arrangement, was to superintend a 
part of the land as well as naval operations, took of- 
fence at some of the movements of Gen. Sullivan, and 
refused a co-taperation. While an attempt at reconcil- 
iation was going forward, a British fleet suddenly ap- 
peared off* Newport, which induced the French admiral, 
as a precautionary measure, to sail out of the harbor. 
A severe storm coming on, prevented a naval engage- 
ment ; and both fleets, being left in a shattered condi- 
tion, at the close of the tempest, retired — the British to 
New- York, and the French to Newport. During this 
time, Gen. Sullivan had laid siege to the town ; and 
though interrupted by the storm, in which his army 
suffered considerably, he had succeeded in annoying the 
enemy, and keeping him within the lines of the village. 
On the return of the French fleet, another effort was 
made to induce the admiral to co-operate with the 
Americans. But his ships had received so much injury 
in the gale, that he considered it necessary to repair to 
Boston, pursuant to previous instructions from his gov- 
ernment. Under these circumstances, Sullivan de- 
termined on raising the siege. A retreat was effected 
in the night. But on its being discovered the next 
morning, the Americans were pursued by the British 
to QrUaker Hill, where a sharp contest ensued, which 



KING PHILIP. 409 

resulted in the loss of between 2 and 300 of each army. 
Sullivan afterwards retreated to Massachusetts, with 
little or no interruption ; and his retreat was consider- 
ed fortunate, as a British re-inforcement, which arrived 
at Newport the day after, would have been enabled ef- 
fectually to cut him off from the main land. 

During the possession of Newport by the British, a 
bold party of men under Col. Barton, landed from a 
boat in the night, proceeded to the enemy's head quar- 
ters, captured Gen. Prescott, and conveyed him away 
before they could be prevented by the land or naval 
forces then in the harbor. 

From its elegant and healthy situation, its proximity 
to the ocean, and the salubrity of its climate, Newport, 
for several years, has been a place of considerable re- 
sort in the summer months. Were there a direct com- 
munication from this place, by stage, or steam-boat, to 
New-London, Hartford or New-Haven, Conn, it would 
add much to the convenience of tourists. But, unfor- 
tunately, for this purpose, the steam-boats which leave 
Providence and Newport five or six times a week for 
New- York, do not touch at any of the Connecticut 
ports ; and, in order to reach New-London by stage, 
it is necessary to return to Providence. Those who 
have travelled down by land, generally return by water. 

Passing Fort Green, a prospect is soon obtained of 
J\^lowit Hope, a few miles to the northwest. It was the 
former residence of 

King Philip, of the Narraganset tribe of Indians, 
and was also the place of his death. The well known 
energy and enterprise of his character made him an 
object of great jealousy and apprehension, and he waa 



410 KING PHILIP. 

accused of always cherishing a secret and implacable 
hostihty towards the English. A renegado Indian 
subject had heightened this jealousy, by revealing to 
the whites the pretended hostile projects of Philip. 
This informer was shortly afterwards found murdered 
in a pond, having fallen a victim to the vengeance of 
his tribe. Three Indians, one of whom was a friend 
and counsellor of Philip, were seir.cd by the whites, tri- 
ed, and on rather shght testimony executed. This out- 
raged the pride and exasperated the passions of Philip, 
and a long and bloody war was the consequence. The 
whites possessing more military skill, wore generally 
victorious, and Philip was driven from his paternal do- 
mains and compelled to take refuge in the depths of for- 
ests or the glooms and thickets of swamps. At one 
time he was driven, with a band of followers, into the 
great swamp of Pocasset Neck, where the English for- 
ces did not dare to pursue him, fearing to venture into 
these dark and frightful recesses. They therefore in- 
vested the entrance into the neck, and began to build a 
fort, with the intention of starving out the foe ; but 
Philip and his companions, leaving their women and 
children behind, wafted themselves on a raft over an 
arm of the sea, in the dead of night, and escaped away 
to the westward, kindling the flames of war among the 
tribes of Massachusetts and the Nipmuck country, and 
threatening the colony of Connecticut. 

One of the most faithful friends that Philip had in the 
time of his adversity, was Canonchet, chief sachem of 
all the Narragansets. "^Fhough he had forborne to take 
an active part in this hopeless war, yet he received 
Philip and his shattered forces with open arms, and 



KING PHILIP. 411 

gave him the most generous countenance and support. 
This at once drew on Canonchet the hostility of the 
English ; and it was determined to strike a single blow 
that should involve both the sachems in a common ruin. 
A great force was therefore gathered together from Mas« 
sachusetts, Plymouth and Connecticut, and sent into 
the Narraganset country, in the depth of winter, when 
the swamps being frozen and leafless, no longer afford- 
ed impenetrable fortresses to the Indians. Apprehen- 
sive of attack, Canonchet had sheltered the greater part 
of his stores, together with the old, the infirm, the wo- 
men and children of his tribe, in a strong fortress, where 
he and Philip had hkewise drawn up the flower of their 
forces. This fortress, deemed by the Indians impreg- 
nable, was situated upon a rising mound, or kind of Isl- 
and, of five or six acres, in the middle of a swamp, con- 
structed with a judgment and skill vastly superior to the 
usual fortifications of the Indians ; and indicative of the 
martial genius of these two chieftains. 

Guided by a renegado Indian, the English penetrat- 
ed, through December snows, to this strong hold, and 
came upon the garrison by surprise. The fight Avas 
fierce and tumultuous. The assailants were repulsed 
in their first attack ; and several of their bravest oflBicers 
were shot down in the act of storming the fortress, 
Bword in hand. The assault was renewed with greater 
success ; a lodgm.ent was effected ; the Indians were 
driven from one hold to another • they disputed their 
ground inch by inch, fighting with the fury of despair ; 
most of their veterans were cut to pieces, and after a 
long and bloody battle, PhiUp and Canonchet, with a 



412 KING PHILIP. 

handful of surviving warriors, retreated from the fort 
and plunged into the depths of the surrounding forest. 
The victors set fire to the wigw^ams and the fort ; the 
whole was soon in a blaze ; and many of the old men, 
tlie women and the children perished in the flames. 
This last inhuman outrage overcame the stoicism of the 
savage. The neighboring woods resounded with the 
yells of rage and despair, uttered by the fugitive war- 
riors, as they beheld with anguish of heart, the desola- 
tion of their dwelhngs, and heard the agonizing cries of 
their wives and offspring. " The burning of the wig- 
wams," says a contemporary writer, " the shrieks and 
cries of the women and children, and the yelling of the 
warriors, exhibited a most horrible and affecting scene, 
so that it greatly moved some of the soldiers." 

The defeat of the Narraganset fortress, and the death 
of Canonchet, were fatal blows to the fortunes of King 
Philip. He made an ineffectual attempt to raise a head 
of war, by stirring up the Mohawks to take up arms ; 
but though possessed of the native talents of a states- 
man, his arts were counteracted by the superior arts of 
his enlightened enemies, and the terror of their warlike 
skill began to subdue the resolution of the neighboring 
tribes. 

With a scanty band of followers, who still remained 
true to his desperate fortunes, the unhappy Philip wan- 
dered back to the vicinity of Mount Hope, the ancient 
dwelling of his fathers. Here he lurked about like a 
spectre, among the desolated scenes of former power 
and prosperity, now bereft of home and friends. Even 
in this last refuge of desperation and despair, a sullen 
grandeur seems to gather round his memory. Defeat- 



i\ 



FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON. 413 

ed, but not dismayed— crushed to the earth, but not hu- 
mUiated, he seemed to grow more haughty beneath dis- 
aster, and to receive a fierce satisfaction in draining the 
last dregs of bitterness. The very idea of submission 
awakened the fury of Ploihp, and he even smote to death 
one of his followers who proposed an expedient of peace. 
The brother of the victim made his escape, and, in re- 
venge, betrayed the retreat of his chieftain. A body of 
white men and Indians were immediately despatched to 
the swamp where Philip lay crouched, glaring with fury 
and despair. Before he was aware of their approach, 
they had began to surround him. In a little while he 
saw five of his trustiest followers laid dead at his feet ; 
a resistance was vain ; he rushed forth from his covert, 
and made a headlong attempt at escape, but was shot 
through the heart by a renegado Indian of his own na- 
tion. 

After leaving Fort Green, the steam-boat successive- 
ly passes Prudence, Patience, Hope and Despair isl- 
ands, and Providence is reached in going 20 miles from 
the northern extremity of the latter. 

FROM PROVIDENCE TO NEW-LONDON, 

56 miles. 
A stage leaves Providence twice or three times a 
week in the morning, passing through Centreville, 
West Greenwich, Hopkinton, Stonington and Mystic, 
and reaches New-London at evening. 

Centreville, 11 miles from Providence, is a man- 
ufacturing village, containing two cotton factories, sev- 
eral weaving shops, and a number of small houses. 

West Greenwich, 2 miles. 



414 8T0NINGT0N. 

HopKiNTON, 15 miles. 

Stonington, 1 1 miles. The village is incorporated ; 
contains a U. S. arsenal, several factories, a bank, an 
academy, two churches, and a population of more than 
3000. It has a good harbor, and is a place of consid- 
erable trade. 

The settlement of the place commenced as early as 
1649. It had previously been a part of the territory of 
the Pequots, a powerfnl and warlike tribe of Indians. 
The early English settlers, in different parts of Connec- 
ticut, had been frequently annoyed by this tribe ; and, 
in 1637, it became necessary to take efficient steps for 
their expulsion. An expedition was entrusted to Capt. 
Mason ; who, with about 300 colonists raised in Con- 
necticut and Massachusetts, and 200 Mohegan and 
Narraganset Indians, encamped on the night of the 
26th of May at a place called Porter's rocks, a short 
distance from the present village of Stonington, and 
about three miles from one of the principal forts of the 
Pequots, which was situated on the summit of a hill. 
Two hours before day the little army was in motion ; 
and on approaching the fort, it was found that the en- 
emy, about 700 strong, were in a profound sleep, with- 
out their usual watch, having spent the previous night 
in revelry and drunkenness. On a close approxima- 
tion of Mason's men, a dog within the fort commenced 
barking, which awakened one of the Pequots ; who, 
perceiving the approach of the assailants, aroused his 
comrades from their slumbers. Mason immediately 
advanced, and through the apertures of the palisades 
poured in a fire, and then rushed in through a part of 
the fort slightly barricaded. Notwithstanding their con- 



NEW-LONOON. 415 

fusion, the Pequots defended themselves with bravery ; 
but having but few other weapons than bows and ar- 
rows, they \frere unable to withstand the assailants, 
who cut them down without mercy with their swords 
and bayonets. To render the victory complete, Ma- 
son ordered their wigwams to be fired. The blaze 
. soon spread in all directions, compelling the besieged 
to ascend the pallisades ; from whence more than one 
hundred were shot down by the assailants who had 
then surrounded the fort. Others, attempting to break 
through the lines of the troops, were either shot or cut 
down, and several perished in the flames. The scene 
continued about an hour, when it was found that sev- 
enty wigwams had been destroyed, and that the ground 
was strewed with the bodies of between five and six 
hundred of the slain. Mason's loss was only two men 
killed and sixteen wounded. 

In August, 1814, a bombardment of Stonington took 
place from a British 74, a frigate, a sloop of war and an 
armed brig ; but with the aid of two 18 pounders and 
a 4 pounder, the inhabitants defended the place, pre- 
vented the landing of troops from barges, and finally 
compelled the enemy to haul off, with his brig consid- 
erably shattered. 

NEW-LONDON 

Is 17 miles from Stonington, and is a city and port of 

entry. It has the best harbor in Connecticut, and is 

defended by Forts Trumbull and Griswold. The city 

. is on the west bank of the Thames, within 3 miles of 

- its mouth, and contains a court house, two banks, five 

churches, and a population of between 3 and 4000, 



416 NEW-LONDON. 

Many of the houses on the heights, back of the town, 
and a few in the city, are handsome ; but the general 
appearance of the place is uninteresting. 

New-London, like Stonington, was once within the 
territory of the Pequot Indians, and was settled at the 
same time. About 4 miles east of the city, on what is 
called Fort Hill, this nation had their strongest fortress. 
But slight remains of it, however, are now to be seen. 

In September, 1781, after the treason of Arnold, an" 
expedition was entrusted to his care against New-Lon-. 
don, A strong detachment landed on both sides of the 
harbor at the mouth of the river. Arnold, who com- 
manded in person the troops which landed on the west 
side, immediately advanced against Fort Trumbull, an 
adjoining redoubt, and New-London. These posts be- 
ing untenable, were abandoned on his approach. Col. 
Eyere, who commanded the detachment which landed- 
on the eastern side, proceeded to storm Fort Griswold, 
situate on Groton Hill. It was occupied by a garrison 
of 160 men, commanded by Col. Ledyard, a part of 
whom had just evacuated the works on the opposite 
side of the river. Ledyard defended the fort until the 
British succeeded in entering the embrasures with 
chaTged bayonets. Further resistance being useless, 
Ledyard surrendered his sword to the British colonel ; 
who, in defiance of every rule of civilized warfare, 
plunged it into the bosom of the conquered officer, and 
continued the carnage until the greater part of the gar- 
rison was destroyed. Eyere, however, lost his own life 
in the affair, and 200 of his men were either killed or 
wounded. New-London was, at the same time, set on 
fire by the direction of Arnold, and n)ost of its build- 



FROM KEW-LONDON TO NORWICH. 417 

ings and all the public stores deposited in the place 
consumed in the conflagration. 

Forts Griswold and Trumbull are still in tolerable 
preservation ; and were garrisoned by the government 
during the late war with Great Britain, 

A steam-boat leaves New-London on the arrival of 
the Boston stage, which is generally at 7 P. M. and 
reaches New- York earl}' the next morning. Leaves 
New- York for New-London three times a week, and 
continues on her trip from New-London, up the Thames 
river to NorM'^ich, 14 miles distant. 

Stages also leave New-London on Tuesday, Thurs- 
day and Saturday at 8 A. M. and arrive at Hartford at 5 
P, M. passing through Waterford, Montville, Salem, 
Colchester, Hebron, Marlborough, Glastenbury and 
East Hartford. Distance 47 miles — fare $2. This is 
the most direct route ; but the traveller will find it inter- 
esting to take a trip up the Thames to Norwich ; from 
whence a conveyance may be had to Hartford, as no- 
ticed hereafter. 

FROM NEW-LONDON TO NORWICH, 

by Steam- Boat. 

Previous to the settlement of New-London, in 1648, 
the Thames was called the Pequot river ; but at that 
period it received its present name. It rises in the 
Mashapaug pond in Union, 3 miles N. E. of Hartford, 
passes into Massachusetts, re-enters Connecticut, and 
pursues a southerly course till it falls into Long Island 
Sound. It is navigable for lar^e vessels no farther than 
Norwich. During the late war, while New-London 
was blockaded, the U. S, ships Macedonian, United 



418 VORWICH. 

States and Hornet, were moored in a cove above Mas- 
sapeaug Point, and a small battery erected for their ; 
protection. 

MoHEGAN is on the west bank of the Thames, four 
miles south of Norwich, and is the residence of about 
300 Mohegan Indians, the only remnant of that once 
powerful tribe, who formerly owned this section of 
country. On Hortoii's Hill, not far from this place, the 
lines of an old Indian Fort can still be traced. 

Trading Cove, about 1 mile farther, is a bay extend- 
ing a short distance into what was once the Indian 
country, and derived its name from the traffic which, 
was here carried on between the colonists and the Mo- 
hegans. The residence of Uncas, their sachem, and 
early friend of the whites, was near this cove, now the 
centre of the Indian resrvation. 

NORWICH 
Is an incorporated city. It contains three compact 
settlements ; of which Chelsea Landing, situate at the 
point of land between the Shetucket and Yantic rivers, 
is the principal. Its location is pecuUarly romantic ; 
and it is a place of much enterprise and business. 
What is called the Town is 2 miles northwest of Chel- 
sea, containing the court house and some other public 
buildings ; and the third settlement is Bean Hill, in the 
western part of Norwich. The city contains a bank, 4 
or 5 churches, and several manufacturing establish- 
ments. The Yantic Falls, 1 mile from Chelsea, are 
handsome, and afford facilities for mills and manufac- 
tories. From a rock 70 or 80 feel in height, which 
overhangs the stream, tradition says a number of Nar- 



NORWICH. 419 

ragansets once precipitated themselves when pursued 
by the Mohegans. 

Settlements were commenced at Norwich as early 
as 1 660. A part of the town was first conveyed to Thom- 
as Lcffingwell, a colonial militia officer, by the sachem 
Uncas, in consideration of services rendered him in a 
war with a neighboring tribe. A fort belonging to Un- 
cas, on the Pequot river, was closely besieged by the 
Narragansets ; and the provisions being nearly ex- 
pended, it was reduced to the last extremety. In this 
situation, Uncas contrived to notify the English at Say- 
brook fort of his distressed condition. Lcffingwell, who 
commanded that fort, immediately conveyed to the be- 
sieged a supply of provisions ; which being soon known 
to the assailants, they were induced to raise the siege. 
For this generous conduct of Lcffingwell, Uncas con- 
veyed to him the land about the fort, and afterwards 
gave him a formal deed of a township, embracing most 
of the present town of Norwich. 

On an elevated bank north of what is called the Cove, 
and near the Y antic falls, is the burying ground of the 
royal family of the Mohegans, commonly called " the 
burying ground of the Uncases." Many of their graves 
are still designated by coarse stones, on some of which 
are English inscriptions. Uncas was buried here and 
many of his descendants ; but his family is now nearly 
extinct. There are one or two living who claim a kin- 
dred, but who have very Uttle of the magnanimity or 
valor for which he was so conspicuous. 

The Plain near the bur}'ing ground was the summer 
residence of the Mohegans, and is a most dilightfnl 
spot. 

L1.2 



420 FROM NORWICH TO HARTFORD. 

FROM NORWICH TO HARTFORD. 
Stages leave Norwich in the morning, and arrive at 
Hartford at 8 P. M. Distance 39 miles— fare $2,50. 
The intermediate distances and places are as follows : 



Miles. 

Bozrah, 5 

Lebanon, 4 

Coventry, 12 



JMiles. 

Bolton, 4 

East Hartford, 13 

Hartford, 1 



East Hartford is located on the east bank of the 
Connecticut river, directly opposite Hartford, with 
which it is connected by an elegant bridge, which, in- 
cluding the cause-way, is nearly a mile long. The vil- 
lage contains 4 churches, several manufacturing estab- 
lishments, and between 2 and 3000 inhabitants. 

HARTFORD. 

A settlement was commenced by the English at this 
place in 1634. The Dutch, from New-Netherlands, 
had previously established a trading house and port at 
the place, for the purpose of carrying on a commerce 
with the Indians, and were disposed to prevent the 
English from participating in the traffic. But finding 
that this could not be effected, without a bloody con- 
test, they abandoned the design. 

The charter which was originally granted to the col- 
onists of Connecticut, having been demanded by the 
English monarch in 1686, through the medium of an 
agent, it was reluctantly surrendered by the colonial 
legislature. This took place in an evening ; and while 
it remained on a table in a room where an agent and 
several Biitish offirrr-s had asspmblrd, the wi?idov.-p be- 
ing open, on a preconcerted signal, the candles were 



HARTFORD. '121 

extinguished by persons m the stieot, and the charter 
seized by a citizen in the room, and conveyed to a tree ; 
in the cavity of which it remained for several years. 
This tree is still standing ; and is known by the name 
of the Charter Oak. It is located in the lower part of 
the town, in the street running east from the south 
church, and is directly in front of the ancient mansion 
of the Wyllis family. The charter is still preserved in 
the office of the secretary of state. 

Hartford is now the largest city in the state. It is 
located on the west bank of the Connecticut river, at 
the head of sloop navigation, and 50 miles from its 
mouth. The city is handsomely laid out, and contains 
a number of elegant buildings and private residences. 
Among its pubhc buildings, are a state house, arsenal, 
3 banks, a museum, an academy, a college, an as3'lum 
for the deaf and dumb, an asylum for the insane, and 
9 churches. Population about 10,000. 

Washington College is in Main-street, in the south 
part of the city. It was opened in 1824, and consists of 
two edifices ; one of which is 150 feet long and 4 sto- 
ries high, and contains the rooms of the students. In 
the other is the chapel, recitation rooms and library. 

The Deaf and Dumb Asylnm is on Tower Hill, one 
mile west of the city ; and was the first institution of 
the kind established in the United States. The perma- 
nent fund of the institution, including a donation of land 
by Congress, amounts to §215,539, of which sum $80,- 
000 are available. The number of pupils is generally 
about 70, many of whom are supported by public and 
privnte charities. 



422 HARTFORD. 

A visit to the institution is unusually interesting. 
The utmost order and decorum prevail ; and the stran- 
ger will be dehghted with the means here employed for 
enlightening and cultivating the minds of an unfortu- 
nate class of the community ; and with the rapid im- 
provement they make, not only in writing, but in a 
study of many of the sciences. Every thing is commu- 
nicated by means of signs. After being taught the 
mode of conveying the most necessary ideas, they pro- 
ceed to study the alphabet employed at the institution ; 
then the names of visible objects, and the order of the 
letters used in designating them ; and finally a knowl- 
edge of absent objects and abstract ideas, by means of 
ingenious devices and definitions. Many soon attain 
a knowledge of writing correctly ; and. some are ena- 
bled to communicate their ideas in chaste and even el- 
egant language. 

The J^eio Exchange Buildijigs, on the corner of Main 
and State streets, are deserving of notice, as a specimen 
of good taste, and as ornamental to the city. 

The J^eio City Hall is an elegant structure, creditable 
to the taste and munificence of the inhabitants. 

The J^eio Episcopal Church, and the High School in 
Washington-street, occupy a prominent place. The 
latter is delightfully situated on a commanding emi- 
nence, and ranks in spaciousness and beauty with the 
most favored establishments of the kind in other cities. 
The Episcopal Church is a monument of liberal pubUc 
spirit guided by good taste, and is surpassed in design 
and execution by few, if any similar buildings in our 
country. 



UARTPORD. 423 

The Hospital for the Insane f is a stone building, 150 
feet long and 50 wide, 4 stories high, with wings of 3 
stories. It is located a little south of the city. 

Hartford has undergone a surprising change witliin 
a few years. Its streets have been greatly improved ; 
many of its old buildings have given place to new and 
elegant dwellings, and the whole appearance of the city 
exhibits an unusual degree of enterprise and prosperity. 

STEAM BOATS. 
A steam boat leaves Hartford for New- York daily at 
1 1 A. M. reaching New- York the next morning ; and 
leaves New- York daily at 4 P. M. reaching Hartford 
the next day at noon — fare $3,50. 

STAGES. 

To J^ew-Haven and J^ew-York. — A stage leaves Hart- 
ford every morning, (Sundays excepted) which reaches 
New-Haven at noon, and New- York the next morn- 
ing. Fare to New-Haven, 40 miles, $2 ; to New- York, 
123 miles, $3,50. 

To Boston. — A stage leaves on Monday, Wednesday 
and Friday, at 12 M. and reaches Boston at 2 P. M. 
the next day. Distance, 136 miles — fare y$5,00. 

To Litchfield, Ct. — A stage leaves Hartford daily at 
8 A. M. and arrives at Litchfield at 3 P. M. — Distance 
30 miles, fare $2. 

To Hanover, JV*. H. (up Connecticut river.) — A stage 
leaves Hartford daily, (except Sundays) arrives at 
Brattleborough, Vt. the first day, and Hanover, N, H. 
the second — passing through Windsor, Ct. Springfield, 
Northampton, Deerfield, and Greenfif^ld, Mass. Brat- 
tleborough and Westminster, Vt. Walpole and Charles- 



424 FROM HARTFORD TO HEW-HAVEN. 

town, N. H. Windsor and Hartford, Vt. to Hanover. 
[This line intersects the daily stage for Boston at 
Northampton, and the daily stage for Saratoga Springs 
at Charlestown.] Distance from Hartford to Hanover, 
152 miles— fare $7,25. 

To J^ew-London. — A stage leaves Hartford on Mon- 
day, Wednesday and Friday, at 7 A. M. and reaches 
New-London jat 5 P. M. — Distance 47 miles — fare $2. 

To Mhany. — A stage leaves Hartford and Albany ev- 
ery morning (Sunday excepted) aj; 2, and arrives at 
each place at 7 P. M. — Distance 96 miles — fare $5. 

FROM HARTFORD TO NEW-HAVEN, 
40 miles. i 

The intermediate places and distances are as follows : 



Miles. 

Wethersfield, 4 

Rocky Hill, 3 

Middletown, 8 



Miles. 

Durham, 7 

Northfoi-d, 8 

New^-Haven, 10 



Wethersfield is located on the west bank of the 
Connecticut river, 4 miles below Hartford. The soil, 
which is of the finest order, is principally devoted to the 
culture of onions ; of which large quantities are export- 
ed annually. . The labor is principally performed by 
women and children. The new penitentiary of the 
state is erected at this place. 

Rocky Hill,- 3 miles ; a parish in the town of Weth- 
ersfield, containing a lofty eminence, from which a rich 
and variegated prospect of the surrounding country is 
enjoyed. Six miles farther is a village, called Middle- 
town Upper Houses ; from which to the city of Middle- 
ton is 2 miles. 



MIDDLETOWN. 425 



MIDDLETOWN 

Is a port of entry, and is handsomely located on the 
west bank of the Connecticut river, 31 miles from its 
mouth. Among its public buildings are a court house, 
jail, alms-house, bank, 7 churches, and a military acade- 
my. There are also several extensive manufactories of 
rifles, swords, buttons, ivory combs, woollen and cotton 
goods, &c. The population of the city is about 7000. 

The Military Academy is pleasantly situated a short 
distance from the city. The two principal buildings 
are each J 50 feet long, 50 broad and 4 stories high. 
There is also a chapel, with recitation rooms above, 
and a dining hall. The latter is 120 feet long, and faces 
the parade. The whole assumes a very handsome and 
imposing appearance , and from the top of the chapel 
may be had an extensive view of the surrounding coun- 
try. The course of instruction is similar to that pursu- 
ed at the mihtary academy at West Point. Tlie schol- 
ars wear the uniform of cadets ; and, besides other sci- 
ences, are taught the use of arms, and are subject to a 
strict military discipline. 

On the eastern bank of the Connecticut, opposite to 
Middletown, are several quarries of free stone, used for 
building. Immediately below the city, the river turns 
abruptly to the west ; and passes between two lofty 
hills, forming what are called the Narrows. Within 
these Narrows, on the south bank of the river, is a lead 
mine, which was used during the revolutionary war. 



426 MIDDiETOWN, 

It can be approached only in boats or by means of a 
foot path.* 

In proceeding on the stage route to New-Haven, the 
only object witnessed worthy of remark, is a natural ice 
house in the parish of Northford, IS miles from Middle- 
town, and 7 from New-Haven. It is on the declivity 
of a trap ridge near the road ; and contains ice through- 
out the year. 

A natural ice house, of still greater extent, is in the 
town of Meriden, on another route from Hartford to 
New-Haven, and nearly equi-distant from those places. 
The Journal of Science remarks, that it is in a country 
composing "a part of the secondary trap region of Con- 
necticut, and is marked by numerous distinct ridges of 
green stone, which present lofty mural precipices, and 
from their number, contiguity and parallelism, they of- 
ten form narrow precipitous defiles, filled more or less 
with fragments of rocks of various sizes, from that of a 
hand stone to that of a cottage. These fragments are 
the detritus or debris of these mountains, and every one 



* Continuing a course down the river, the steam boat 
successively passes Middle Haddam, Haddam, East 
Haddam, Essex or Pettipaug, and Saybrook, where the 
river enters Long Island Sound. The shores are gen- 
erally bold and rocky, and present but few objects of 
interest. Saybrook was the first town settled on the 
river ; at which time (1635) a small fort was erected at 
the place. The tovi^n was originally granted to Lord 
Say and Seal, Lord Brook and others ; and derived its 
name from these proprietors. Yale college was located 
here for a time, and afterwards removed to New-Haven. 



MIDDLETOWN. 427 

in the least acquainted with such countries, knows how 
much they always abound with similar ruins. 

In such a defile the natural ice house in question is 
situated. On the south-western side, there is a trap 
ridge of naked perpendicular rock, which, with the slo- 
ping ruins at the base, appears to be 400 feet high ; 
the parallel ridge which forms the other side of the de- 
file is probably not over 40 feet high, but it rises abrupt- 
ly on the eastern side, and is covered by other wood, 
which occupies the narrow valley also. This valley is, 
moreover, choked in an astonishing degree with the ru- 
ins of the contiguous mountain ridge, and exhibits ma- 
ny fragments of rock which would fill a large room. 
As the defile is very narrow, these fragments have, in 
their fall, been arrested here, by the low parallel ridge, 
and are piled on one another in vast confusion, forming 
a series of cavities which are situated among and under 
these rocks. Many of them have reposed there for 
ages, as appears from the fact that small trees, (the 
largest that the scanty soil, accumulated by revolving 
centuries can support) are now growing on some of 
these fragments of rock. Leaves also and other vege- 
table ruins have accumulated among the rocks and 
trees, and choked the mouths of many of the cavities 
among the ruins. This defile, thus narrow and thus 
occupied by forest and by rocky ruins, runs nearly N. 
and S. and is completely imper\'ious to the sun's rays, 
except when he is near the meridian. Then, indeed, 
for an hour, he looks into this secluded valley, but the 
trees and the rocks and the thick beds of leaves scarce- 
ly permit his beams to make the slightest impression. 

MM 



428 NEW-HAVEN. 

It is in the cavities beneath the masses of rocks al- 
ready described, that the ice is formed. The ground 
descends a httle to the south, and a small brook ap' 
pears to have formed a channel among the rocks. The 
ice is thick and well consolidated, and its gradual melt- 
ing, in the warm season, causes a stream of ice cold 
water to issue from this defile. This fact has been 
known to the people of the vicinity for several genera- 
tions, and the youth have, since the middle of the last 
century, been accustomed to resort to this place, in par- 
ties, for recreation, and to drink the waters of the cold- 
flowing brook," 

NEW -HAVEN, 

Twenty-five miles from Middletown, is usually pro- 
nounced by travellers, to be one of the handsomest 
towns in the Union. It is located around a harbor 
which sets up about 4 miles from Long Island Sound ; 
and is the semi-capital of the state. The city is built 
on a large plain, encircled on all sides, except those oc- 
cupied by the water, by hills and lofty mountains. It 
is divided into two parts, called the old and new town- 
ships ; in each of whicli is an open square. The hous- 
es are generally neat, and some are very elegant. To 
each dwelling, there is generally attached a garden, and 
frequently a beautiful yard in front. Added to which, 
several of the streets are adorned with lofty trees, giving 
to the M^hole a rural and most delightful appearance. 
Among the public buildings are a state house, the col- 
lege edifices, 5 churches, a court house, jail, 2 banks, a 
custom house and 3 or 4 academies. The population is 
between 11 and 12,000. 



NEW-HAVEN. 429 

The Public Square or Green, near the centre of the 
city, is an elegant spot, containing several acres, and is 
surrounded by stately elms. In the centre are three 
churches and the state house ; on the west side, the 
college buildings ; and on the east side, fronting the 
state house, the Tontine Coffee House. The space 
immediately in the rear of the churches, called the Up- 
per Green, was formerly used as a burying ground ; but 
in '1821 the monuments were removed to the new bury- 
ing ground, in the northwestern part of the city. The 
ancient monument of Dixwell, {seep. 339,) is still to be 
seen, and it is believed by many that the other regicides, 
Goffe and Whalley, were also interred here ; but this 
opinion is unsupported by evidence. Goffe died at 
Hadley, and was probably buried there ; and of Whal- 
ley no certain information was ever obtained after he 
left Hadley. 

Ycde College was founded in 1701, and was named 
after its early benefactor, Elihu Yale, governor- of the 
East India Company. It was originally located at Kil- 
lingworth ; afterwards removed to Saybrook, (see p. 
426 ;) and from thence, in 1717, to New-Haven. The 
faculty is composed of a president, 10 professors, a li- 
brarian and 8 tutors. The library consists of about 
10,000 volumes ; and the literary societies among the 
students have libraries amounting, collectively, to 5000 
more. The cabinet of minerals is very extensive, and 
by far the most valuable of any in the Union. The col- 
lege buildings consist of four spacious edifices, each 4 
stories high, 104 feet long and 40 wide, and each con- 
taining 32 rooms for students ; two chapels, one contain- 
ing a philosophical chamber ; a Lyceum, containing 



430 WEST ROCK. 

the library and recitation rooms — all of brick ; and a 
handsome dining hall in the rear of the other buildings, 
built of stone. Seven of these buildings stand in a line 
fronting the green, the Lyceum occupying a central po- 
sition ; and the whole, with the charming scenery 
around, form a most enchanting and elegant landscape. 
The medical institution fronting College street, is con- 
nected with the college, and has a valuable anatomical 
museum. The number of students at Yale is generally 
from 450 to 500. The alumni of the institution amount- 
ed, in 182G, to upwards of 4000 ; of whom more than 
2200 were then living. 

The J^eio Bunjin^ Ground, containing several acres, 
is divided into parallelograms, Avhich are subdivided for 
families. The ground is planted with trees, mostly wil- 
lows ; and the white monuments, several of which are 
obelisks, seen through the foliage, with the taste and 
uniformity every where discovered, give to the whole a 
most impressive and solemn appearance. 

The Tontine Coffee House, is one of the best establish- 
ments of the kind in the U. S. It is located directly in 
front of the state house and college edifices, the public 
square intervening, commanding from its upper or fourth 
story, a beautiful and extensive view of the city and the 
surrounding coimtry. The Tontiae, which is built of 
brick, is 80 feet long, vv'ith a wing extending back 100 
feet. It contains a spacious dining hall, cotillion room, 
8 private and public parlours, and a sufficient number 
of lodging chambers to accommodate from 80 to 100 
guests. 

West Rock is 2 miles north-west of New-Haven. It 
is the southern extremity of the east ridge of the Green 



parmington canal. 431 

Mountains, and is a perpendicular bluff' fronting the 
south, 400 feet in height. The village of Hotchkiss- 
town is at its foot. The cave in which the recricide 
judges, Whally and Goffc, secreted themselves for three 
or four years, {seep. 339,) is on the summit of the rock, 
about a mile north of the blufT. The caveis formed by 
the crevices between several large rockf, apparently 
thrown together by some convulsion, and is entirely 
above ground. Near the top of one of the rocks is this 
inscription : " Opposition to tyrants is obedience to 
God." During the continuance of the regicides at this 
place, they were furnished daily with food by a family 
who resided near the foot of the mountain. 

East Rock is 2 miles north east of New-Haven, and is 
the southern termination of the Mount Tom range of 
mountains. It is 370 feet high ; and from its top a fine 
view is had of New-Haven, its harbor, the Sound and 
Lons Island. It was for some years the residence of a 
hermit, who was found dead in his habitation .a few 
years since. 

The Farinington Canal, which was originally com- 
menced at the north line of the state, terminates at New 
Haven — distance 58 miles, lockage 218 feet. This canal 
has since been extended to Northampton, Mass. be- 
tween 20 and 30 miles farther ; and a branch has been 
constructed from Farmington up the Farmington river, 
to New-Hartford, 15 miles. 

The towns bordering on the sound, near New-Ha- 
ven, are visited in the summer months by numerous 
invalids for the benefit of the sea breeze and a salubri- 
ous climate. Among these towns, Guilford, 15 miles 
east of New-Haven, is generally preferred. It has two 

mm2 



432 I |;OM NF,W-l! aVF.N to NEtV-VCFtK. 

harbors, is a place of considerable trade, and is con- 
stantly supplied with tlie best of oysters, lobsters and 
fish, taken in and near the harbors. 

Steam Boats ply between New-Haven and New- York 
daily, leaving the former place at 8 P. M. and the latter 
at 7 A. M. The passage is generally performed in 8 or 
9 hours. Fare $2. 

Stages leave New'-Haven daily, for Hartford, Boston, 
Albany, and New- York. Distance to Hartford 40 
miles; to Boston, 136 miles; to Albany, 110 miles; 
to New- York, 86 miles.* 

* This route is usually performed in 12 or 14 hours, 
and the intervening places and distances are as follows ; 



Miles. 

Stratford, 13 

Bridgeport, 3 

Fairfield, 5 

Norwalk, 10 



Miles. 

Stamford, 11 

Greenwich, 6 

Harleem, 30 

New- York, 8 



Bridgeport is handsomely situated on both banks 
of the Fughquonnuck river. The village contains a 
bank and two churches. 

Fairfield is a port of entry on Long Island Sound, 
containing a court house, academy, several churches, 
and a population of about 2000. It was on a low level 
piece of ground, which is seen on the left side of the 
road about a mile and a half after leaving the village, 
that the remnant of the Pequot tribe of Indians, after 
the destruction of their fort by Capt. INlason at Mystic, 
{seep. 414,) were either killed or captured. The battle 
was severe and bloody, and some relics of arms used 
in the contest are at this day occasionally found by the 
inhabitants. 

NouwALK i? on th? T'ound, and is n pleasant village, 
containing an academy and 3 churches. 



FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. 133 

FROM NEW-HAVEN TO LITCHFIELD. 

A stage leaves New-Haven daily for Litchfield, pass- 
ing through Waterbury and Watertown — distance 38 
miles. 

Passing West Rock, {see p. 430,) and proceeding 
from thence for a considerable distance in a nortlierly 
direction, through a beautiful valley, having on its right 
a lofty rocky barrier, with rude perpendicular preci- 
pices, Beacon Mountain is reached in travelling i4 miles 
from New-Haven. This mountain is a ridge of almost 
naked rocks stretching to the south-west. " The road, 
which is formed in the natural gap of the mountain, 
here winds through a bold gulf or defile, so narrow, 
that at one place only a single carriage can pass at 
once. On both sides, the cliffs are lofty, particularly 
on the left ; and on the right, a little distance from the 
road, they overhang in a frightful manner." Beyond 
this gap, the road turns more to the left, running along 
a rivulet ; and after three or four miles, on rising an 
eminence, the Naugatuck, a branch of the Housatonic 



West Chester County, which is entered in a few 
miles after leaving Greenvnch, and which was " neu- 
tral ground" during the revolutionary war, was selected 
by Mr. Cooper, the novellist, as the principal scene of 
his " Spy." 

At HoR3E>fECK, 33 miles from N. York, the traveller 
IS shown the steep, down which Gren. Putnam descend- 
ed on horse-back during the revolution. 

At Harl.^m, S miles from New -York, th** road pass- 
es near the East river, affording the traveller a viev/ of 
HunL Gate. (Seep.WS.) 



434 LITCHFIELD. ■ 

river, is discovered. It runs through a deep and nar' 
row gulf, which is seen from the road. 

Watertown, 26 miles from New^-Haven, is on a 
commanding hill, and is a beautiful little village, con- 
taining two churches. 

Litchfield is on a handsome eminence, and is con- 
sidered one of the most pleasant villages in the state. 
The principal street extends more than a mile in length, 
and contains a collection of neat houses, adorned with 
gardens and court yards. Among the public buildings 
are a court house, jail, bank and two churches. There 
is also at this place a young ladies' school, which has 
obtained much celebrity ; and a distinguished law 
school, established in 1684, by the late Tapping Reeve, 
and now under the charge of the Hon. James, Gould. 
The number of students educated at this institution 
since its establishment is between 6 and 700. 

Mount Tom, near the south-west corner of this town, 
is 700 feet above the river at its base, and affords from 
its top an extensive prospect. 

The Great Pond, in Litchfield, comprises an area of 
about 900 acres, is the largest in the state, and is a 
beautiful sheet of water, affording at its outlet a num- 
ber of valuable mill seats. 

^i Chahjbeate Spring has been discovered within a 
few years, on the east side of Mount Prospect, four 
miles west of the village of Litchfield. It issues from 
an extensive bed of sulphuret of iron, and is copious 
and perrennial, exhibiting in its course much oxide of 
iron, ochre, and a white deposit. 

Mount Prospect, is a rocky, wood clad, elevated ridce, 
of two miles extent. From its summit an interesting 



FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 435 

and diversified view is presented of villages and lakes, 
and of a well cultivated, healthy country. 

From Litchfield, a stage may be taken daily, passing 
through East Goshen, Norfolk, Canaan, Sheffield, 
Great Harrington, West Stockbridge, Chatham, Nas- 
sau, Schodack and Greenbush to Albany, and reaching 
the latter place in about 24 hours. Distance 72 miles 
— fare $4. This is the most direct route,- also, from 
Litchfield to Saratoga Springs ; but, to make the tour 
of New-England more complete, it is recommended to 
proceed from Litchfield to Hartford, and from thence 
up the beautiful valley of the Connecticut river,, which 
is variegated with villages and country seats, and pre- 
sents some of the finest scenery on the continent. 

FROM LITCHFIELD TO HARTFORD. 

A stage may be taken at Litchfield daily, except 
Sundays, at 4 A. M. passing through Harwinton, Bur- 
lington and Farmington, and reaching Hartford at 11 
A. M. Distance 30 miles — fare ^2. 

Harwinton is a small village, 7 miles from Litch- 
field, on the Naugatuck river. 

Burlington, 7 miles. 

Farmington, 6 miles. This is a pleasant village, lo- 
cated on the Farmington river, which, after leaving the 
village, takes a northerly course for 15 miles, where it 
is joined by the Salmon river. It then turns to the 
south-east, passing between lofty mountains and de- 
scends a cataract of 1 50 feet ; after which it is called 
the Windsor river, and joins the Connecticut 4 miles 
above Hartford. Farmington contains 3 churches and 



436 ROUTE UP THE CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

a population of between 2 and 3000. [For a notice of 
the Farmington canal, which passes through this place, 
see page 336.] 
Hartford, 10 miles. (Seep. 420.) 

ROUTE UP THE VALLEY OF THE CON- 
NECTICUT RIVER. 

Stages run daily between Hartford, Conn, and Han- 
over, N. H. up the Connecticut river, as noticed at page 
423. Passing through East Hartford, {see p. 420,) the 
first village reached is 

Windsor, 7 miles from Hartford, located on the west 
bank of the river. Settlements were commenced at 
tliis place as well as at Hartford, in 1633. 

Enfield, 9 miles. A canal has been recently con- 
structed around the falls at this place, of sufficient di- 
mensions to receive steam-boats ; and they now pass 
as far up as Springfield without difficulty, and except 
in very low water, for a considerable distance above 
Windsor, Vt. This canal commences at the head of 
the Falls, by a wing dam 700 feet long, which reaches 
to the middle of the river. From the lower end of the 
wing dam a pier extends down 200 feet parallel to and 
100 feet from the west bank, and is raised above the 
river so as to form a basin and safe entrance to the 
Grand Lock. At right angles to this pier, a breast wall 
of sohd masonry, strengthened by butresses, extends 
70 feet towards the bank, and is there united to the 
grand lock. This and the breast wall are sixteen feet 
higher than the surface of the water in the canal, pre- 
senting a firm defence against the highest floods. The 



SUFFIELD. ^^ 437 

breast wall covers twelve sluices, with sliding gates, for 
the free admission of water for hydraulic purposes. 
The river banks are generally high and rocky, for about 
three miles below the grand lock, and the canal is 
formed by an embankment of earth raised in the bed of 
tlie river and protected on the outside by a stone wall. 
Two miles below the guard lock, Mill brook crosses 
the line of the canal, and is passed by an aqueduct of 
90 feet long and 60 feet wide, having six piers and 
abutments of substantial masonry. The height of the 
artificial embankment increases gradually, as it passes 
down the river, until it rises to a perpendicular eleva- 
tion of 25 feet, when the liigh river bank retires to the 
west, and the canal is carried about two miles over land 
to its termination below the foils. Here are three locks 
of masonry of ten feet lift each. The locks are sepa- 
rated by pools 50 feet wide, in which ascending and 
descending boats may pass each other, and avoid the 
detention which is unavoidable where several locks are 
combined in a connected line. The dimensions of the 
locks are 90 feet by 20 in the clear, and they are calcu- 
lated to have four feet depth of water. The depth of 
the canal varies from four to twenty feet. The aver- 
age width, at the surface of the water, is about seventy 
feet, and the total length five and a half miles, 

SuFFiELD, 1 mile from Enfield, on the west bank of 
the river,is a beautiful town. The village, which is on 
an eminence about a mile west of the river road, is 
composed principally of one street, half a mile in ex- 
tent. The houses, with their handsome wardens and 
yard?, present a picturesque and elegant appearance. 



438 SPRINGFIELD. 

A sulphur spring, a mile or two south-west of the vil- 
lage, is a place of some resort by invalids. 

West Springfield, 9 miles, is located on the west 
bank of the Connecticut river, and contains several 
handsome private dwellings. A bridge here crosses 
the river, connecting the place with 

Springfield, on the opposite side ; which is a large- 
and handsome village. The houses are principally lo- 
cated at the foot of a hill ; on the west side of which 
are several elegant residences, and on the summit a U» 
S. arsenal. The village contains a court house, jail> 
two churches, and several manufactories. 

The buildings composing the arsenal on the heights, 
occupy a large square, and are surrounded by a high 
wall. They are mostly built of brick and present a 
magnificent appearance. About 13,000 muskets are 
manufactured here annually. The water works em- 
ployed for the purpose are on Mill river, a mile south 
of the arsenal. 

Springfield became the theatre of savage barbarity 
during Philip's war in 1675. The towns still further up 
the river had, for some time previous, suffered severely 
from repeated Indian incursions. But the Springfield 
tribe had thus far remained quiet ; and it was not till 
the month of October of this year, that Philip could 
succeed by his artifices, to enlist them in his favor. On 
the night of the 4th, it was ascertained by means of a 
friendly Indian, that 300 of the tribe had suddenly and 
secretly assembled at a fort on Long Hill, about a mile 
below the village. This intelligence produced much 
consternation among the inhabitants ; and they imme- 
diately repaired to their fortified houses. I^o distur- 



SOUTH HADLET FALLS. 



439 



bance, however, occurring in the night, hopes were en- 
tertained that hostiUties were not intended on the part 
of the Indians. Lieut. Cooper, the commandant of the 
place, and another, accordingly resolved on repairing 
to the fort, for the purpose of dissipating the fears that 
still existed among the inhabitants. Having reached 
the small stream at the lower part of the village, Coop- 
er and his companion were shot by Indians who were 
concealed in the woods. This seemed to be a signal 
for attack ; as the whole body immediately rushed into 
the town with a horrid yell, and set fire to the unforti- 
fied dwellings and barns. The whole were soon envel- 
oped in flames and consumed. During this period, a fire 
was kept up from the fortified houses upon the Indians, 
and several killed ; but it was not till they had destroy- 
ed 32 dwellings and nearly as many barns, and plun- 
dered every thing within their reach, that they with- 
drew. A brick house standing at the time of this ca- 
tastrophe, is still in tolerable preservation. 

During the rebeUion of Shays, in 1786, the armory 
at this place was attacked by him. But he was repuls- 
ed, with the loss of a few men ; and his followers sub- 
sequently dispersed. 

Pursuing the course of the river on the west side, 
over a beautiful country, 

South Hadley Falls are reached in going 12 miles 
from Springfield. The river here descends in the dis- 
tance of two and a half miles, 52 feet ; and on the east 
side, commencing at South Hadley village, a canal has 
been constructed, con'esponding in extent with these 
falls, through which lumber and the largest boats pass. 

NN 



410 HATFIELD. 

Previous to reaching Northampton, the river, (in which 
there is an abrupt turn,) passes between Mount Tom 
on the south, and Mount Holyoke (see p. 337) on the 
north. North of the latter mountain, a most charming 
and extensive plain is presented, embracing many ele- 
gant villages and country seats. 

Northampton, 5 miles from South Hadley. {See p. 
336.) 

Hadlet, 2 miles east of Northampton. {See p. 339.) 

Hatfield, 5 miles north of Northampton, on the 
west side of the river, is a neat and venerable town, 
having been settled as early as 1658. In October, 1675, 
after the burning of Springfield, {see p. 438,) the Indi- 
ans under Philip, flushed with their repeated successes, 
made an attack on Hatfield ; which was then defend- 
ed by two companies, aided by a third, which came to 
their relief during the conflict. The Indians were about 
700 strong, and made a furious assault upon the town 
in various directions, pillaging and burning several of 
the house?. But they were defeated, and compelled to 
seek safety in a precipitate flight. 

On the 30th of May of the following year, another 
attack was made upon Hatfield by 600 Indians. Twelve 
unfortified buildings were immediately burnt ; but the 
others, which were pallisaded, were defended by a few 
inhabitants. Part of the Indians then repaired to the 
fields, and attacked the men at their labor ; but 25 
young men crossed the river from Hadley, and rushing 
upon the Indian:^, killed several, and finally, with the 
aid of the inhabitants, dispersed them. 



Muddy BKOok^ 411 

Muddy Brook, 9 miles from Hatfield, is a small vil- 
lage, deriving its name from a stream which passes 
through the place, bordered by a narrow morass. The 
place in 1675, and for some time subsequent, was call- 
ed Bloody Brook, in consequence of a battle which was 
fought with the Indians on the 18th of September of 
that year. Capt. Lothrop, who had been despatched 
with 80 men and several teams, to secure a quantity of 
wheat in Deerfield, two or three miles farther north, 
was surprised on his return through this place, by a 
party of 700 Indians, who had secretly watched his 
movements, and who lay in ambush awaiting his ar- 
rival. He had no sooner crossed the small stream 
above mentioned, than they rushed upon him, pouring 
in such a deadly fire as to produce complete discomfit- 
ure. Lothrop and his men fled ; but being pursued 
and overtaken at all points, they resolved to sell their 
lives in a vigorous struggle. They accordingly posted 
themselves behinJ the neighboring trees ; when the 
conflict became a trial of skill in sharp shooting. At 
length the struggle terminated in the annihilation of 
nearly the whole of the English. Lothrop was killed in 
the early part of the action ; and his loss, including 
teamsters, amounted to ninety. The troops at Deer- 
field, under Captain Mosely, hearing the musketry, 
hastened to the scene of combat, and arrived soon af- 
ter its close. They found the Indians stripping the 
slain. Mosely improving the favorable opportunity, 
rushed upon them and cut them down in all direc- 
tions, driving the remainder into the adjacent swamps. 
The next morning, it was found that a few Indians had 



4^2 DEERFltl.O. 

returned to the field of battle for the purpose of plunder ; 
but they were soon dispersed. 

Though the loss of the enemy on the previous day 
was estimated at about 100, the engagement was, nev- 
ertheless, more disastrous in its consequences to the 
English. The destruction of 90 valuable men, the 
flower of a thinly scattered population, was calculated 
to produce much despondency, and occasion the most 
serious apprehensions for the safety of the remaining 
colonists. 

The place where this battle was fought is near the 
centre of the village, about 30 rods south of the church. 
The bridge over the stream is located at the place where 
Lothrop crossed. Some remains of a coarse monument 
once erected here are still visible. 

Deerfield, 3 miles from Muddy Brook, and 17 
miles north of Northampton, is a handsome village on 
the west bank of the Connecticut river. It is in the 
midst of a very fertile and beautiful country, presenting 
a succession of rich and highly cultivated farms. The 
town was among the early settlements on the river ; 
and, more than any other place was the theatre of In- 
dian warfare. In September, 1675, an attack was made 
on the place, one man killed and several houses redu- 
ced to ashes. For about 20 years subsequent to this, 
owing to repeated incursions of the savages, the inhab- 
itants were often compelled to abandon their dwellings 
and seek a temporary asylum in the neighboring towns. 
During the French wars under William and Anne, how- 
ever, they maintained their ground until 1704; made 
many improvements and enclosed the centre of the vil- 
lage by an extensive but imperfect pallisaded work. 



\ 



riF.F.RFir.i.D. 443 

This fortification was attacked by about 350 French 
and Indians in the month of February of that year. 
They had secretly taken a position two miles north of 
the village on the evening of the 9th ; from whence 
they cautiously proceeded to the fort the next morning 
before day. There being no sentinels posted, the for- 
tification was easily entered, and the work of destruc- 
tion commenced ere the inhabitants had aroused from 
their slumbers. A feeble resistance, only, could be 
made. All the houses, except one, within the palli- 
sades, were burnt ; between 40 and 50 of the inhabi- 
tants were killed, and 112, including women and chil- 
dren made prisoners. In the drear of winter, with a 
scanty supply of provisions, and with little clothing, 
the unfortunate captives were compelled to take up 
their line of march for C;inada. Mr. Williams, the 
clergyman of the place, and his family, were of the num- 
ber. His wife* was murdered in two or three days af- 
ter commencing the excursion ; and sixteen others ei- 
ther died or were massacred before reaching the Pro- 
vince. Most of those who survived, after remaining in 
captivity for some time, were redeemed. A daughter of 
Mr. Williams, however, who had married an Indian 
chief, refused to return. She assumed the habiliment of 
a savage, and died in Canada some years afterwards. 
Several of her descendants are still living there. 

The house which survived the conflagration at Deer- 
field ie still standing, and is owned by Col. Elihu Hoyt. 

* She was afterwards, with her husband, interred in 
the church-yard at Deerfield ; and marble slabs placed 
over their graves. 

nn2 



444 turner's falls. 

It is in a tolerable state of preservation, and exhibits to 
this day the perforation made in the door by toma- 
hawks, as well as the marks of balls in the interior. 
One of these marks is shown, as having been made by 
a ball which killed a female in the house ; and in one 
of the timbers a bullet is seen, which has never been 
extracted, 

Greenfield, 4 miles from Deerfield, is a large and 
pleasant village, on the west side of the river ; from 
which it is distant 2 miles. It contains a court house, 
jail, bank and 3 churches. It is a central position for 
the trade of the surrounding country ; and is a place of 
wealth and enterprise. A young Ladies^ Seminary at 
this place is beautifully located and under excellent 
regulations. 

Turner's Falls, on the Connecticut river, are 3 
miles from Greenfield, in a north-easterly direction. 
The road taken in visiting them is east of the ordinary 
stage route ; and it is customary, therefore, after an ex- 
cursion to the falls, to return to Greenfield. The route 
is principally over the ground taken by Capt. Turner, 
in his attack on the Indians in 1676. The fall is be- 
tween forty and fifty feet ; but by the erection of a dam 
for the accommodation of a canal, the cataract has lost 
much of its original wildness. 

The Indians, amounting to several hundreds, having 
taken a position on elevated ground, on the west bank 
of the river at the head of the fall, it was deemed im- 
portant to dislodge them. This sennce was undertak- 
en by Capt. Turner, at the head of about 160 mounted 
troops. He left Hatfield on the 17th of May, 1676, 



EERNARDSTOWN VERNON. 445 

and reached within half a mile of the Indian encamp- 
ment before day the next morning without discovery. 
Here his men left their horses, and by a rapid march, 
reached the camp before the Indians awoke from their 
slumbers. A deadly and destructive fire was immedi- 
ately commenced. Believing it to proceed from their 
ancient and powerful enemy the IMohawks, many of 
the Indians fled to the river, and leaped into their ca- 
noes ; but in attempting to cross, they were mostly 
shot or precipitated over the cataract. Others fled to 
the rocks of the river bank, where they were cut doM'n, 
without resistance ; and few escaped the victorious 
arm of the assailants. One hundred were left dead on 
the field ; one hundred and forty were seen to descend 
the cataract ; and their whole loss was afterwards as- 
certained to have been 300. Turner lost but one man. 
In his retreat, he was less fortunate. He was at- 
attacked by other parties of Indians on the route — his 
men divided — himself killed ; and the loss of his party, 
before they reached Hatfield, amounted to between 30 
and 40. Capt. T. is supposed to have fallen in what is 
called Greenfield Meadow, at the mouth of a small 
stream on which a mill now stands ; as his body was 
afterwards found at that place by a scouting party of 
the English. 

Bernardstown, 5 miles north of Greenfield. 

Vernon, 6 miles ; the first town reached in entering 
the state of Vermont. Fort Dummer, built to protect 
the inhabitants against the Indians, was located at this 
place. 



446 GUII.FOBD-r-CHARLIlSTOTrN. 

Guilford, 5 miles. Here are two slate quarries and 
several mills and manufactories. 

Brattleborough, 6 miles, a flourishing village, is 
located on the west bank of the Connecticut river ; 
over which there is a permanent bridge. White stone 
creek also passes through the place, affording a num- 
ber of good mill sites. The village contains a bank, 
the most extensive printing establishment in the state, 
and several manufactories. Stages pass daily between 
this place and Boston, Hartford, Albany and Hanover. 

DuMMERSTON, 5 milcs. 

Putney, 5 miles. 

Westminster, 5 miles. The first newspaper print- 
ed in Vermont was issued from a press at this place ; 
though it was discontinued several years since for want 
of patronage. The village is located on a beautiful 
plain on the west bank of the Connecticut ; but it has 
not improved much within the last twenty years. 

Walpole, N. H. to which a bridge leads, is on the 
opposite side of the river, and is noticed at page 347. 

Bellows Falls, on the Vermont side, 4 miles from 
Walpole. {See p. 346.) Proceeding up the river over 
a beautiful plain, 

Charlestcwn,N, H. is reached in travelling 8 miles 
from Bellows Falls. It is handsomely located on the 
east side of the river, and is a neat village, containing a 
court house, jail and bank. 

A fort was built for the defence of this place in 1 743, 
on rising ground south of the church, over which the 
present street passes. In March, 1 747, while the fort 



SPRINUFIELD. 447 

was occupied by Capt. Stevens and thirty men, a furi- 
ous assault was made upon it by a large body of French 
and Indians, under the command of M. Debeline, The 
fort being composed of materials which were combusti- 
ble, the enemy attempted its destruction, by setting a 
log house and the fences to the windward on fire. To 
guard against a conflagration, the besieged through 
great exertions, succeeded in making several subterra- 
nean passages under the parapet, with an opening at 
the top of each. From these passages, which were 
deep enough to protect the men from the enemy's shot, 
water, taken from a well within the fort, was thrown 
upon the parapet, and the plan of the enemy frustrated. 
A sort of mantelet, loaded with dry faggots, set on fire, 
was then forced towards the fort, accompanied with 
flaming arrows ; but all to no purpose. Stevens main- 
tained his position, continued a fire upon the enemy 
whenever he presented himself, and refused all proposi- 
tions of a surrender. After an assault of three days, 
and sufiering severely in the loss of his men, Debeline 
withdrew from the siege. None of Stevens' men were 
killed, and but two v/ounded. 

For tliis brave defence. Sir Charles Knowles, com- 
mandant of a naval force then in Boston harbor, sent 
Capt. Stevens an elegant sword. The town was sub- 
quently named in honor of Sir Charles. 

Fi*om Charlestown, a stage may be taken daily for 
Saratoga Springs, passing through Chester, Manches- 
ter, &c. ; or for Boston, passing through Walpole, 
Keene, &c. {See p. 346 to 350.) 

Springfield, Vt. on the west side of the river, 5. 
miles from Charlestown. 



/ 

448 WEATHEUSFIELD — HANOVER. •> ' 

Weathersfield, G miles ; a fine agricultural town- 
ship. Jarvis' farm, at what is termed Weatliersfield 
Bow (a turn in the river) is considered one of the best 
in Vermont. 

Windsor, 7 miles. (See p. 353.) 
Hartland, 7 miles. 

Hartford, 7 miles. There are two handsome villa- 
ges in this town ; one near the junction of the AVhite 
river, and the other near the junction of the CXueechy 
river with the Connecticut. In both there are several 
mills and manufactories. From Hartford, the river is 
crossed to 

Hanover, (noticed at p. 355,) from which a stage 
may be taken daily for Burlington, Vt. or Boston. 



FINIS. 



HBRARY OF CONGRESS 




014 113 620 3 



